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Re: Restarting Unused 5I Engine
> The accusump uses your system pump to pressurize the accumulator. Catch 22.
True but only to a point. The Accusump reservoir is divided into two
separate pressurized chambers -- one for air and the other for oil -- by a
sliding piston. By sliding one way or the other, the piston changes the
relative size of the chambers based upon the difference in pressure between
them. One chamber holds pressurized air, which is used to set the minimum
pressure for the oiling system, and the other holds several quarts of oil,
which is forced out of the chamber and into the engine whenever the oil
pressure falls below the preset air pressure.
By increasing the amount of oil present in the system, oil pressure is thus
restored. And, of course, when the oil pressure is greater than the air
pressure in the reservoir, the extra oil is pumped back into the reservoir
and stays there because of the pressure difference between the oil and air.
On most installations, there is also a valve that can be closed while the
engine's running to keep the oil in the reservoir under pressure after the
engine has been turned off. Before the engine is started next time, this
valve is opened and the pressurized oil is released into the engine bringing
it up operating pressure (or very nearly so) before the engine is fired up.
Of course, it's not nearly as elegant a solution as a proper dry-sump system
-- done correctly, they not only keep the bearings nicely oiled but can add a
few horsepower to the engine's output as well -- but on anything other than
an all-out racecar, they work as well for a fraction of the cost and
That said, I've successfully pressurized the oil in an engine before starting
by using a setup similar to a pressure bleeder for the brakes. In this case,
I took a two-gallon plastic gas can, drilled a hole near the cap for a tire
valve and filled it with oil. I then modified the cap to take a brass
fitting, to which I attached one of the rubber oil cooler lines (if you're
using the factory oil cooler with threaded fittings, this step will require
more work), and then routed the other line into my waste-oil container. I
next closed off this line with a C-clamp, filled the gas can with oil and
slowly pressurized the container with air from a blow-gun on a handy air hose
You'll need to watch out for leaks and I wouldn't recommend using too much
air pressure since gas cans are not designed for this purpose -- as I recall,
I only ran it up to 20psi or so -- and when the time comes to depressurize
the system so you can start the car, open the C-clamp slowly so the
pressurized oil doesn't spray everywhere -- I learned this lesson the hard
way, of course -- then reattach the oil cooler lines.
While this is obviously not the ideal approach, it did let me make sure that
oil was present throughout the engine before I started it after four years of
sitting in storage and it cost me only $3 or so for the gas can as I
scrounged everything else from around the garage.