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New engine started! (Was:K-Jet Problem)

I now have the car running.  I found the mixture adjustment screw was broken 
and / or missing from the unit originally in the car.  I tried to graft the 
distributor on to the lower part (air metering mechanism) from my spare 
CIS-E setup; however, the mounting screws on the CIS-E are 30 degrees 
different than those on the CIS air plate.  Therefore, the hoses would be on 
the opposite side of the fuel distributor compared to where they should be.  
Additionally, I notice the shape of the funnels (venturis) were very 
different between the two.) I went to the junkyard this morning and pulled 
everything between the uppper airbox housing to the fuel injector lines for 
$40 from a '81 GT.  Put the 'new' setup on my car, and it started on the 
first try.

I let the car run for about a half hour this morning until it cut out on 
it's own. (Why, I dunno.) Typically it will start on the first crank, but it 
takes a while.  I adjusted the spark timing by ear an hour ago until the 
engine smoothed out somewhat.  Unfortunately it is still very rough and 
feels like it is only running on 4 cyl.  Without an exhaust it is difficult 
to hear much of anything....  I've also found that small adjustments (less 
than 1/6th of a turn) on the mixture adjustment screw seem to make the 
difference between starting and not starting.  Is this typical?  I'm pretty 
sure I'm running the car is running very rich and I'm still getting an 
occasional backfire.

Since I've been working on the car for 7 days and nights straight I'm gonna 
try and take a few days vacation away from the garage.  Any tips on how I 
can start tuning up the car to get it in driveable shape?  I guess first I 
have to figure out why the rough idle...

Interestingly, so far the new engine has never burned an ounce of oil (Mobil 

For background I've done the following things to the car:

1) Factory new engine block and pistons.  Rods reconditioned and new bolts 
pressed in.  Crank reused from old engine w/ 200k mi.  As a testament to the 
bottom end durability of 2144cc I5's, the crank was found by the machine 
shop to be perfectly in spec and straight.  Only needed to be cleaned & 

2) New valvetrain with springs from autotech and a Schrick cam.  Head was 
mildly ported and polished.  Adjustable cam gear fitted.

3) New TB / WP.  New hoses (every single hose in the car) heater and coolant 
hoses replaced w/ Audi hoses covered in SS braid.  Vac & other hoses 
replaced w/ new SS braided hoses as well.  New cap, rotor, plugs, wires.

4) Upgraded to 10.1" Scirocco 16V rotors and '85 CGT calipers.

5) 85 CGT throttle body (larger than '83) and K&N filter.

6) 4kq exhaust manifold and downpipe.  To be mated in the future to a 2-1/4" 
SS exhaust w/ Borla turbo muffler.  Current exhaust is non-existent.

7) Battery relocated to trunk.

8) Jamex strut bar.

Within the past year I have already done the following (only the big things 
are listed):

1) Bilsteins w/ H&R's.
2) 4kq front sway bar.
3) Addco rear sway bar.
4) Sachs clutch.
5) New CV's and axles.
6) New rear drums & pads.
7) New bearings all 'round.

Anyway, I'll put all this together in a more or less coherent form and post 
it up on the 'net w/ some pictures.

Any tips on tuning up the car are appreciated.


'81 4k/4E
'83 CGT
'85 CGT (parts)

>From: Huw Powell <audi@mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: one@humanspeakers.com
>To: Alan Kramer <ackramer@hotmail.com>
>CC: quattro@audifans.com
>Subject: Re: K-Jet Problem
>Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 17:01:22 -0500
> > Yeah, I've thought of just using the CIS-E. Why didn't I swap it when I 
> > the engine out you ask?  Because I'm generally a moron.  I thought of it
> > many a time, but didn't do it...
>Oh well.  You can always do it later...
> >  1) Timing is correct.  Verified by 0 on
> > flywheel, [...]  Notch on cam pulley (inside)
> > lines up with VC gasket [...]  Rotor is positioned
> > so it begins to pass the #1 wire at this point.
>the distributor casing has a mark, by the way.  Don't forget a small
>amount of advance (6 deg is stock, right?)  But that shouldn't stop it
>from starting...
> > 2) I have spark, verified
> > visually by cranking w/ SP resting on bare metal.
> > 3)  I have fuel when the
> > pressure plate is lifted,
> >  Assuming that the engine sucks in air, I should be
> > able to disconnect the large rubber hose over the cone, pull up on the
> > pressure plate, crank the car and it should start.  HOWEVER, this isn't 
> > case.  What's wrong with my logic.
>What about too much or too little fuel?  (I hope you have reconnected
>the warm up regulator by now)
>As Phil said, try turning the static mixture screw all the way to one
>stop, then go by half turns.  I would recommend turning it al the way
>CCW, for no fuel at all or excessively lean, then slowly richen til it
>Anyway, your logic above - may be too much fuel - seems like a hard way
>to start a car with a simple management system.  But if you have to try
>it with the boot off, crank, *then* lift plate I think.  Other way
>sprays fuel too soon maybe?
>Can you measure frequency valve duty cycle while cranking?
>Huw Powell
>82 Audi Coupe; 84 4kq; 85 Coupe GT; 73 F250

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