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RE: door lock

> The '89 on cars with the flush-mount door handles suffer this 
> problem; there's a revised part made of steel versus the 
> original pot metal piece.  Details on the fix on my site; 
> better photos and description on the link provided on my page.
> http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html
> go to repair index, then "body and hardware".
> Fix this soon; the passenger side will have the same failure 
> mode; then you won't be able to get in at all with the key, 
> unless you can fit through that ski sack.

Chris' site is definitely the place to go for info on this problem.  Keep in
mind that the P/Ns given there are for the driver's door, so if anyone has a
problem with the passenger's door lock get the correct P/Ns for that side.
I also found that at least on the V8Q's version of the problem there are two
different possibilities for the replacement lock cylinder.  You can tell
which version you need by looking at the lock cylinder while assembled and
look around the periphery to see if there is a noticeable gap and a visible
rubber seal.  The older style locks have the sealing ring behind the front
face of the lock cylinder.  

Finally, and the actual purpose of this post, is to report that I actually
was locked out of my car when the passenger lock cylinder broke (I never
knew there was a mechanical connection in the driver's door lock!).  Rather
than trying to work something into the car via the ski sack what I did was
to find the vacuum/pressure line for the central locking system going to the
trunk lock.  I disconnected the line and used a bicycle pump to pressurize
the lines and unlock the doors.  I left the pump in the trunk of the car ...

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)