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RE: 016 quattro transmission; 3 questions

> No, 4 questions. I still have my 88 5ktq transmission out on the bench
> from a clutch replacement. I'm ready to put it back in, but 
> before I do,
> I'd like to make sure to do all I can to keep it working.  
> 1) the ball on the shift lever is wobbly and I'm wondering if 
> it can be
> taken off and peened tight again without risk of damage.

Indeed it can ... BTDT myself on the 4kSQ when I did the clutch.  I adjusted
the jaws on my bench vise to ensure that the shock from the peening process
went from the base of the ball into the bench without risking damage to the
surface of the ball itself.  I noticed a big change in the feel of the
shifter when I put everything together.  Let's see, the car now has a little
more than 10K miles after the clutch job and it is still fine.  All that
said, you can buy a replacement part from Audi ... if you think that you are
going to have the car for a long time you may want to think about going with
a new part.  On second thought it is really a judgement call ... it really
isn't that difficult to access the gearshift lever even when the tranny is
installed.  While you have it apart you may want to consider replacing the
plastic parts that comprise the external shift linkage as well.  I have the
P/Ns for the 4kQ, and I'm pretty sure that these parts are the same on the
5kQ as well, but you should verify them ... I know that there are
differences between the 4kQ and 5kQ shift linkages.  

    Gearshift lever 857 711 181 B (from shift linkage to tranny selector
    Connecting Rod  431 711 429 B (locating rod from shift linkage to top of
tranny housing)
    Ball socket     431 711 221   (at end of linkage where gearshift lever
> 2) I have drained both the tranny front section and final drive from
> their respective two drain holes. Do they both fill from the one hole
> that I can see in the front section or does the final drive have to be
> filled separately?

It all fills from the one hole.  What you will find however is that it takes
time for the fluid to fill the aft chamber.  Since you still have the tranny
out of the car you can speed it by tilting up the nose of the tranny while
you fill it, or if you wait until the tranny is installed to fill it until
fluid starts to leak from the fill hole, wait a long while and then complete
the filling operation.  If you drained the tranny when it was warm it should
take the specified amount of lubricant to refill, if you find that you're a
half pint or more shy then you should keep checking the fluid level after
the car is back on the road.  
> 3) In playing around with the differential lock on the bench 
> and turning
> the input shaft, I don't find any difference in the way the 
> transmission
> operates, locked or unlocked. ie, I turn the input clockwise and all
> three shafts turn clockwise; I hold one front drive flange 
> and the other
> continues clockwise; the rear drive always turns with the input shaft.
> Does this sound right? Can the Diff. lock be tested on the bench?

Oh yes, it most certainly can.  If you lock the differential you should find
that it is impossible to hold the tailshaft stopped while turning the tranny
input shaft and the transmission is in a gear.  With the center diff
unlocked you will be able to hold the tailshaft flange stationary while the
input shaft is turned.  

HTH and good luck!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)