[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: New slave cylinder, what else IS wrong?
I know exactly what your talking about because I recently went through the
same thing with my 4kq. The gears in my car do not grind, but 1st and 2nd feel a
bit more notchety than 3rd through 5th.
I've only owned this car about 3-4 months and since I've owned it, the pedal
in my car has been unusually low. I suspected that the clutch wasn't being
I determined the low clutch pedal was caused by the slave cylinder because a
small amount of fluid had leaked around it. I changed the cylinder, but it still
didn't make a difference (boy is that roll pin a pain to get out :-)).
I still wanted to remedy the problem though, and I suspected the clutch master
cylinder was at fault because it was about the only other thing left. I replaced
it about a week ago and it improved things quite a bit, but the pedal still did
not fully return. The same time I replaced the clutch master cylinder however, I
noticed that the pin which connects the mc to the pedal was extremely worn (about
1/2 gone in fact). I replaced the pin, and clutch was dandy again.
When all was said and done, the notchety feeling of the shifter still
remained. I'm planning on switching the gear lube in the transmission over to
synthetic to see if this improved things... This feeling seems to be most
prevalent when the car is cold. If this doesn't make a difference, I can only
conclude that something in the transmission is worn and it's just the way it's
going to be.
Mail me at mailto:email@example.com
"George A. Siambis" wrote:
> Steven (and list),
> I have final clarification...the slave cylinder was replaced NOT
> the master cylinder. The part list shows clutch slave (P/N 4A0-721-261)
> at $100.26 which doesn't seem too unreasonable (Blaufergnugen sells for $75,
> and I haven't checked TPC yet). Labor was $184.00 ($96/hr) for
> installation and a flush with another $11.96 for brake fluid. There is a
> long story behind the miscommunication but I apologize for any mix up.
> Having said that, the car still has trouble shifting. It is ALOT
> better than before, but I still have a hard time pushing into first &
> second somtimes, especially when cold but sometimes after highway driving
> too. Going from first to second still grinds occassionally (depends on
> timing, quicker shift = higher chance of grinding). Shift into third
> a fourth is never hard (I don't have to push hard) but it does feel
> 'knotchy' (not grinding, but not smooth as if I can feel the "gears"
> meshing together) sometimes. Also, I find that pushing the shifter as
> far left as possible eases the shift into first and second (of course,
> this is probably the reason the shifter itself feels "looser" now).
> I must reiterate that the shifting is ALOT smoother than before. The
> car was not perfect when I got it back, but it may be getting
> worse (it's hard to be sure). It seems to me the best case scenario might
> be a leaky master cylinder (clutch still not fully engaging/disengaging)
> that I can fix myself. Worst case scenario, the synchros are on their way
> out. Also, is it possible the PO has worn the synchro's to his particular
> shifting style, and that my style isn't compatible?
> I am trying to keep the city miles to a minimum, but unfortunately, it
> often can't be avoided. Any thoughts you have time to offer would be
> greatly appreciated.
> George Siambis
> San Francisco
> 1988 90q
> 5cyl, 160K
> On Fri, 3 Dec 1999, Buchholz, Steven wrote:
> > > Miscommunication with the shop was involved. Their
> > > computer says M/C while a handwritten note says slave
> > > cylinder...there
> > ... that's comforting ... or perhaps not. How much are they charging you
> > for a M/C swap? I suppose that the majority of the price is the cost of the
> > M/C ... I found that Audi wants something like $200+ for the part. Rod at
> > The Parts Connection told me I could get one from him for less than $50.
> > >
> > > Out of curiosity, where does the fuild that leaks
> > > around the seal
> > > around piston inside the master cylinder leak to?
> > >
> > ... it leaks to the unpressurized side of the cylinder and effectively gets
> > pumped back to the reservoir when you release the clutch.
> > > Thanks for the advice on doing the job myself, but I don't
> > > have the time right now & I wouldn't trust myself with that
> > > just yet. I did
> > > try to look up The Parts Connection (for future needs) but
> > > had no luck.
> > > If you still have a number or even just a city I would be
> > > much obliged.
> > >
> > They are out near Fresno ... sorry I didn't know that you weren't aware of
> > them. The easiest way to get info on them is via their website:
> > http://www.thepartsconnection.com/
> > ... but I just checked there and got the phone number: 1-800-472-1144
> > HTH!
> > Steve