[200q20v] Re: 91 200 20v Pancake

C1J1Miller at aol.com C1J1Miller at aol.com
Tue Dec 12 22:45:50 EST 2000

In a message dated 12/12/00 8:32:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, WARATAP at aol.com 

> Best body shop is Autometric Collision in Royal Oak, Michigan.  They do THE 
>  best work (even better than their other shops).  They know these cars and 
>  will accurately figure out what needs to be done to make the car "whole." 
>  248.398.0200 Ask for Greg or Andy.

I used these guys many years ago on a 4kq; they did pretty good work, but I 
had to go back several times to get it "right".  Each time, I'd show them 
what was wrong; the shop foreman would agree, and have it re-done (shrinking 
paint showing "cracking" under the clearcoat; overspray; missing part; etc.). 
 Once completed, yes, very high quality.

>  > 3) Does anyone know what salvage value of these cars typically is?  All 
>  > mechanical hardware should be perfectly fine, including a new set of 
>  > Euro-Headlights, 3B motor / trans, Hoppen Stage I ECU, H&R Springs, Koni 
>  > Sport Shocks, SS Brake lines, new Hydraulic pump, new fuel pump, new 
>  > new Bomb, new Brake Pads, etc etc etc.  I've heard rumors that the 
>  > go for 2-3k, so will the insurance company charge me that much or more 
>  > buy it back from them?
>  Don't know.  Salvage is usually 10% of what bluebook or the insurance co. 
>  thinks it's worth.  In Michigan, you can't buy it back directly.  Only 
>  licensed salvage companies can do that.

I'm not certain that is true.  You own the car, not the insurance company.  
If they total it out, they purchase the car from you.  You should be able to 
negotiate a reduced settlement from them, with the understanding that it 
won't be repaired/rebuilt.    Don't trust the insurance company's word on 
this, check it out.

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