[200q20v] More info on UFO brakes.

Bernie Benz b.m.benz at prodigy.net
Fri Nov 17 22:44:40 EST 2000

> From: "digital leopard" <digitaleopard at hotmail.com>
> Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 23:38:14 GMT
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Subject: [200q20v] More info on UFO brakes.
> Wow--12 hours and I'm buried under great information!  Thanks, everybody.
> Let me supply some more details, to sort things out:
> The rotors are not warped, but are worn to undersize (60 thousands under
> minimum).  The shop says they are OK to drive on for a short period of time,
> but not for long.  Rich, Bernie, you suggested salvaging them-is this too
> far undersize to save?
First, remember that all rotors tend to wear true, assuming the absence of
any abnormal to past history, thermal or machanical shock.  Hence, your
rotors will perform better than any used, remachined, or even new roters
that you may find and decide to use.

Second, consider the stated wear limit as a "cover your ass" statement by
the manufacturer, and a great money maker for your local shop.  The pistons
will not fall out of the calipers if the rotor is reduced to zero.  I have
seen Ford rotors that were worn to the point that some of the interior vent
cooling vanes were exposed, and the brakes were still fully effective.  Many
of our more affluent friends spent big bucks to have holes or slots machined
in rotor surfaces to produce the same effect, and thus they are subjecting
themselves to a lower reliability due to stress cracking, not caused by
wear, but by the machining process.  I would guess that most of the rotors
on my 5 cars are running with rotors under the wear limit.  Apparently you
are not in a position to help support the replacement parts and local wrench
economies, so don't.
> Bernie-the local shop doesn't agree with you about  there being two versions.
Few do, but that doesn't stop me from being a considered but outspoken
> Is this 2 versions of the UFOs, or (as the local
> dealer says) does the later set indicate a switch to a non-UFO setup?  My
> local shop (Stammler Porsche/Audi in Boulder) quoted me $669, plus core
> charge for the rotors.  Carlsen quoted me $666 for the rotors, plus a $120
> core charge.  VM Autohaus quoted me $644 Cdn ($413.21), plus a $300 Cdn
> ($192.49) core charge.  By the way, Wally at VM seems like a really nice
> guy.  I have a lead on a set of used rotors from a place in Washington
> state.  
For god's sake, or better, your own sake, look at your own rotors and get
involved with the car.  The alternative is to enjoy the warm fuzzy feeling
of a thinner wallet, which comes very easy after saying "Yes, do it to me".
> Order of operations now would seem to be:
> 1. Get opinions from all of you about reusing the current rotors.  (60
> thousands under seems like a lot.)
> 2. See if I can find a set at the local pick-and-pull, which is flat rate
> and will therefore be cheap for rare parts.
> 3. Get the used set from the place in Washington.  (they don't know if
> rotors are in spec, but they do a 30-day guarantee.)
> 4. Buy a new set if they don't work out.
If you really need used rotors I'll give you other leads, but IMO you don't.
> Does anyone know of a good set of alternate pads for the UFOs?  The stock
> ones are good, but I hate seeing the BBS wheels that dusty.
Don't blame the wheels' design faults on the pads, just wash the car more
often.  Have you looked at the remaining material on your old pads?  If
there is 0.1" pad on the backing plate they will last a year under normal
use and a minimum budget, just inspect at least once a year.  New pads are
available from $50 to $350 a set, and what you get is not necessarily what
you pay for.
> As for the long term plans, the bigger brakes will be for track events and
> such.  That's a few years down the road, but as I need to change the front
> suspension for this, this is not in the cards right now...
Forget long term upgrade plans, except during dream time.  Better, for a 10
year old car of apparently unknown maintaince history, plan for a total
brake hydraulic overhaul at your earliest convience.  If you do it yourself,
it is a zero parts cost, time consuming, and dirty job, but thereafter, with
bi-annual fluid changes and pads a/r, will insure great brakes for 300K+

> Ron Merrell.
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