[200q20v] power steering hose
knotnook at traverse.com
Wed Oct 25 21:43:43 EDT 2000
I couldn't budge the bolt with the standard box-end wrench even after
tearing out the fuel line bracket and moving the lines enough to clear the
wrench. That's why I used the socket/flex/extensions/breakerbar approach
from the other side of the engine: To get the leverage I needed. Someone
less vertically challenged than myself (I have to almost crawl into the
engine compartment to put my fingers on that bolt) might have the leverage
to break that bolt loose with a standard-length wrench. An "obstruction"
wrench wouldn't give much more length.
At 11:34 AM 10/25/2000 -0400, Phil Rose wrote:
> >Phil: Haven't even taken a look at where the particular bolt is located (my
> >two car garage is a no-car garage, as it is full of stuff and woodworking
> >equipment at present)...
> >but this might be a good time to create a custom tool.
>It's very difficult to see in there without removing the
>reservoir--virtually impossible to reach that banjobolt without doing that.
>Just in front of *the* bolt in question there is a return-line banjobolt,
>which is *much* more accessible.
>I spent last night perusing the JC Whitney catalog to refresh my memory
>about special-purpose wrenches. They show a bunch of sharply curved
>(bow-shaped) wrenches (page 191) called "obstruction wrenches". I think
>Sears carries some of these. To my eye, it looks as though this kind of
>wrench could permit engaging the bolthead at the necessary (high) angle of
>approach needed to clear the rack plumbing, while having its handle curve
>_downward_ so as to be well below the brakeline obstruction (a line that
>manages to run exactly at the angle made by a normal open-end wrench
>A related approach would be to use a crowsfoot wrench on a 3/8" sq drive
>ratchet handle. The crowsfoot can be angled to the handle similar to the
>effect of the curved "obstruction wrench". This approach might also offer
>possibility to use a cheater bar on the drive handle.
>A regular box-end wrench can be placed over the bolthead and seems like it
>could do the job except most box-type wrenches (like mine) have a head with
>slight offset, and the bend in the shaft places the shaft tightly against
>the nearby fuel-line (keeping the wrench from being turned CCW). Moving the
>fuel-line would solve that problem and is probably the most expedient
>course to take.
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