[200q20v] Heated door lock

Phil Rose pjrose at frontiernet.net
Sun Sep 3 22:30:13 EDT 2000

At 6:33 PM -0400 9/3/00, Thomas J. Donohue, Jr. wrote:
>Recently purchased a 91 200q20v wagon.  PO told me the outer drivers
>door lock had ceased to function shortly before he sold it to me and he
>didn't know why.  Now I know.  Took the beast apart today and found that
>the appx. 1" diameter serrated metal housing on the outside of the lock
>cylinder that the nylon swivel bushing snaps into (the part held on by a
>circlip and which houses the spring) has broken into two pieces.

Some time ago, Chris Miller responded (as follows below) to a similar
question. I should let him speak for himself, but I doubt the information
is any less valid today than it was a couple of years ago when I archived
it. Make note of Chris's website URL. It possibly has sionce been more
updated on this subject; you'll find his website a good general source of
info on the '91 200q. I haven't done this lock repair myself, but paid for
having it done on my son's '89 100.

Phil R.

In a message dated 11/18/98 09:47:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, grega at pobox.com

> The first one involves the driver's door. Wife comes in, tells me the car
>  won't lock and unlock from the outside driver's door. I go check it out and
>  find that the alarm will enable and disable with the key, but it feels like
>  a lock rod popped off the lock cylinder lever. Vacuum system is not
>  activated by the key, but the alarm sure is. Everything works fine from the
>  passenger side and from inside.

Common problem; the lock cylinder turns a piece of pot metal that activates
the lock/unlock function.  The metal piece also has a geared piece that
activates the alarm.  It fatigues over time and snaps.  Don't wait too long,
or you could conceivably be crawling in through the trunk and trying to lift a
door lock button through the ski sack once the passenger side breaks...
The replacement part has been re-engineered by Audi and is stamped steel.  You
also need to replace the actual lock cylinder but can transfer the tumblers
across from your old cylinder, thus keeping the same door key.  Details and a
couple cheezy pictures here:

http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Door Lock Repair

Call the Audi dealer, and tell them what happened.  They'll give you the
repair kit including a new design locking arm and a key
cylinder that matches it.  Specify L or R door... Check these part numbers
before using.

893837287D  Carrier
893837061B  Lock Cyl
N 0124111   Lockring
I reused the lock ring on mine.
this might also be a good time to fix that front speaker, as it needs to be
removed to fix the lock...


the parts actually are very easy to get...just go down to the dealer.  I
had this exact same thing go wrong about 3 months ago.  here are the parts
i bought from the dealer (Barrier Motors, Bellevue WA):
(1) 893-837-287-C carrier         $9.38  supersedes 893-837-287-A
(1)        -288-C                 $9.38                    -288-A
(1) 893-837-061-C lock cylinder  $20.42             893-837-061
(1)        -062-C                $20.42
(2) N-012-411-1   lockring        $1.05ea
all told, parts for L&R doors came to $67.01 including 8.6% washington
state sales tax.  took me about 2 hours to do the driver-side door, once i
got all the tools in place.

other notes
*  the carrier is now made of stamped steel instead of cast pot-metal.
this is the actual piece that breaks.  since the new design interfaces with
the lock cylinder in a different way, you need new lock cylinders too.
*  where the lock cylinders were identical L&R before, now they are distinct
*  the lock cylinder does not come with tumblers (wafers).  you must
carefully move them from your old cylinder to the new one--you'll want to
do that, unless you like the GM system of separate ignition and door keys.
*  the screws holding the door arm rest aren't--they're 4mm allen
socket-head screws.
*  note how many shims are installed on lower left and lower right corners
between inner and outer door shells.  you have to get this right or the
door might leak afterwards
*  once you separate the inner and outer door frames, keep the door just
barely open (from the car).  rest the forward end of the inner frame on the
door sill;  use a jack stand to hold the rear end.
*  fix any busted lights (window, seat memory, or mirror switches) while
you're in there, though it isn't too tough to get back to this stuff in the
*  don't forget to reinstall the foam water shield over the door lock
assembly--you'll have to disassemble the inner and outer door frames if you
forget (don't ask)

*  Phil & Judy Rose           Rochester, NY  *
*        mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net       *


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