[200q20v] FW: FW: [s-cars] 2Bennett 3B oil cooler upgrade

Beer, Jerald jbeer at boosecasey.com
Mon Apr 23 11:17:30 EDT 2001

-----Original Message-----
From: QSHIPQ at aol.com [mailto:QSHIPQ at aol.com]

>How did you measure the .5bar drop? 

Using in car gauge

 >As a rule, if you use -10 oil lines, you 
>might see a slight drop (since -10 is slightly larger than the metric lines

>audi uses).  I look at it this way, a slight pressure drop is good if your 
>temps are good, since lower temp oil will have better viscosity, and you 
>don't want to shoot high pressure oil back into the sump.  I'd also suggest

>you get one of the 0-5-10/30 Mobil 1 oils, since you don't need the 
>additional viscosity polymers if your oil cooler is working better than 
>stock.  All cars under my auspicies use the 30w M1 oils with oil temps
>at 120 on the hottest track day, hottest car...

Always thought the extra protection of 50 weight was helpful in sunny south
Florida. Could the oil have caused that much extra temp? Oil was fresh.

>Sounds like a slick install,  but if it isn't working...  I looked at doing

>that, but found the air flow in the right side of the engine bay was tough
>duct well, even acceptably.  Running to the radiator side has many 
>advantages, the biggest being trapped airflow from the factory and low
>cooling effects.  What I find too, is that the water temp has less 
>fluctuation, and the rad fan shuts off sooner in low speed hot

Chris Miller suggested considering putting new cooler where aux rad is and
putting aux rad where stock cooler was and return original factory ducting.
I guess I could also try putting Mocal in front of main rad and have lines
made up. 

>The other thing you may want to add, is the 20vt oil baffle from the UrS4
>(it sandwiches between the oil pan and the block, you need 2 oil pan
>to install).

p/n? source?
thanks for all your suggestions. With the list's help, I'll eventually get
this sorted out.

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