[200q20v] 200Q 20V Pre-Delivery Jitters
pjrose at frontiernet.net
Thu Feb 1 11:03:29 EST 2001
At 1:23 AM -0500 2/1/01, Tomsaudi at aol.com wrote:
>It looks like I'll be picking up my '91 Maritime Blue 200 20V Quattro within
>a couple of days. I bought the car Saturday,
Congrats! I've never seen "Maritime Blue". It's not "Lago Blue?"
I hope the "nearly new" tires they install are as suitable for your
use(s) as the ones they're removing.
>Things that worry me:
>During my test drive, on the highway, I braked hard, and there was a shudder
>in the steering wheel. I demonstrated this to the salesman in the car with
>me, and again to the sales manager upon my return. BUT, according to the
>list, correcting the brakes on this car can be elusive even to a seasoned
>European car specialist. What if they do not correct the problem, not so much
>out of ignorance, but simply not knowing?
Does the car have UFO brakes? I wouldn't be overly concerned if it
does have UFOs, but whatever the brakes--the main concern at this
point should be that the rotors are not worn below useful limits.
Warped rotors can often be "unwarped" by proper heating/cooling
cycles but if the rotors are well under their "limit" I'd consider
that the dealer's responsibility. If the rotors are conventional
(non-UFO) then the cost for replacement is not great, but as you
already know, the UFO costs are considerable if replacement is needed.
>I have been cautioned by members of this list about reading my boost gauge to
>make sure the turbo is functioning properly. Well, that's good and all, but
where is the boost gauge?
Look at the in-dash computer LCD display (black/gray) in the center
of the main instrument cluster. Is it reading _anything_? If it's not
giving *any* meaningful output, have your dealer fix it--usually
requires instrument panel removal and cleaning of electrical
contacts. Anyway, the computer's readout can be cycled through its
different functions (elapsed time, MPG, average speed, gallons used,
miles till empty, and... boost) by pressing a rocker switch located
at the end of the windshield wiper stalk. One of those positions will
show boost and give a reading in "bar" ranging anywhere from about
0.3 (coasting) up to 1.7 or 1.8 bar at wide-open throttle. With
engine off.key ON it should read 1.0 bar. To check maximum boost
level, accelerate with WOT in 4th gear from 2000 to over 3000 rpm;
the max boost value should occur by 3000 rpm. A max boost value as
low as 1.3 or 1.4 bar indicates possible problems as minor as a
loose hose-clamp or a bad vacuum hose (few dollars) but also could be
"wastegate frequency valve" or the throttle-overrun bypass valve. The
latter two are easy repairs but DIY costs will range from about $40
to $80 for parts. Could be several other causes for low boost. But
those are the easiest ones, IMHO. Low boost usually can be corrected
without too much $$$, but it should certainly be a bargaining point
with the dealer. Best to have them fix it, or at least knock off a
hundred or two for pain and suffering.
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
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