[200q20v] Hydraulic/PS Pump Help

Phil Rose pjrose at frontiernet.net
Mon Feb 26 15:58:08 EST 2001

At 3:24 PM -0500 2/26/01, Kneale Brownson wrote:
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; 
>I replaced my 200q20v's hydraulic pump last summer.  It wasn't quite 
>as easily disengaged as the one on my 5Ktq that I'd done the summer 
>before, largely because there's more plumbing on the pump side of 
>the engine in a 20v than with the older turbo engines, but it's 
>doable by a persistent individual of limited mechanical ability. 
>I think you'll find it easiest if you remove all the hoses, loosen 
>the belt tensioner and take the pump and bracket off the engine.  I 
>don't believe you can get the pump off the bracket with the bracket 
>on the engine.  I can't remember without digging into it, but I 
>think there a difficult-to-reach bolt into the side of the tensioner 
>assembly that needs to be loosened so you can back off the tensioner 
>bolt visible from looking down at the driver's side of the bracket 
>from above.  I rebuilt the 5K pump using a parts kit from Carlsen 
>that was a bunch of O-rings.  Rebuilding basically means replacing 
>the O-rings that seal the two halves of the pump together and the 
>mushroom-cap tops around the front of the pump.  I was told there 
>was no seal kit for the 200 pump, but when I had it out ready to 
>return as a core for the rebuilt pump I bought, it sure looked 
>exactly like the 5K pump.  I was in a hurry to prepare for a trip or 
>I would have tried to get a 5K pump kit and attempted to use it on 
>the 200's pump.

The '91 200q pump does not need to have the bracket removed from 
engine in order to remove pump. Also, AFAIK, the "plumbing" on the 
'91 pump is similar to earlier two-piece hydraulic pumps--but maybe 
pre-'89 models are different. That forward fitting can be slid out 
once the banjo bolt is completely removed. Of course it's best if you 
can move the pump at the same time, as I recall.

The qlist  archives (see Chris Miller's site, certainly) have some 
detailed write-ups for the rebuild procedure. As Kneale says, the 
rebuild kit is exactly the same as for earlier models and it is very 
inexpensive. I was unable to remove the pulley--you'll need a beefier 
gear puller than the $3.95 job that I had. Hence I did not replace 
the drive shaft seal, which wasn't leaking. Also, there are two check 
valves that require an allen key to remove. I as well as many others 
have found those valves nearly impossible to loosen --even with 
allen-sockets and an impact wrench. After two days of penetrating 
oil, pounding and spiralizing allen sockets, I gave up, but didn't 
have any leakage from those points anyway. I replaced the set of 
"inner" o-rings between the pump halves and  the o-rings beneath each 
cap.  My pump has been dry (praise all Audi gods) for the 20K miles 
since the rebuild.

Don't forget to prime pump with fresh oil before reinstalling.


>At 10:33 AM 02/26/2001 -0500, Hemberger, Chris wrote:
>>Hello Audi colleagues!
>>I have what appears to be a leaking steering pump and am attempting to
>>remove/rebuild and need some help/advise:
>>Any observations on removal?  Job seems easy enough until you dig into it
>>and then seems impossible!  Bentley diagrams a much simpler bracket than
>>what I have.  Mine looks like a cast aluminum pc which covers the
>>forward-most line making it very difficult to remove.  This bracket appears
>>to bolted to the pump body behind the drive pulley making on-vehicle
>>disassembly very difficult.  Am I missing something or are there some
>>'tricks-of-the-trade' I haven't stumbled onto?  Once unbolted, how difficult
>>is it to remove the pulley?  Puller required?  ANY help/guidance/suggestions
>>would be greatly appreciated....
>>Also, anybody know of any reputable independent garages in central
>>Connecticut??  I may just give in and have the work done; timing belt also
>>which I thought I'd do while I have this much apart.  As usual - Thanks.
>>Chris Hemberger
>>Amston, CT
>>91 200 Q, 20V
>>200q20v mailing list
>>200q20v at audifans.com


Phil Rose
Rochester, NY
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net

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