[200q20v] Ignition switch woes
tophalope at uswest.net
Tue Feb 27 20:49:02 EST 2001
Does anyone have any thoughts on replacing the ignition switch in the 91
200q20V? Is there a good way to replace the switch without removing the
steering wheel lock?
For anyone who runs into their ignition switch not working (because of the
switch), a set of metric allen keys and a phillips screwdriver will allow
you to remove the knee panel under the driver's dash, and then you can pull
the connector off the back of the ignition switch. With wire and tab
connectors (or paperclips, as I ended up using to get home) connect the
black ground wire to all but the black & red wire, which is the starter.
Failure to make the appropriate connections will leave you without signal
lights. If you use paperclips, they will get hot if you use much in terms
of headlights or whatnot. I used them only to get to the parts store to
pick up some 1/4" crimp on tab connectors to make a temporary harness to
accomplish the same.
Additional thoughts... for anyone who isn't already convinced, the E-code
headlights are a huge improvement over the DOT lights, and they quash the
need for driving lights. If you don't want to lose the autocheck function
for your lights, you can consider leaving the low beams on the stock wiring,
but by all means relay your high beams since the H3/H4's have driving lights
that will pull more current than you want to send through the stock stuff.
-The steak knife method does work for replacing the blower motor. The
pry-bar aspect scared the crap out of me, but it worked quite nicely.
-You can replace the Bose rear deck speakers with many 6X9's. I have Boston
Acoustics 6x9's that only needed a little file work to fit nicely.
-The dash speaker cutouts are for something like a 4" speaker, but unless
your magnet assembly on the new speaker is small, they're nearly impossible
to fit. I have a set of Infinity 3-1/2" Kappas, and the sound isn't too
bright. I fashioned adapter plates to get a better seal against the
-The front door speakers can be adapted for use with an aftermarket head
unit. They just need power and line-level in.
-There are alot of people who whine about how badly their Bose speakers
sound when used outside of their intended context. In many Bose products,
the specifications of the drivers are designed to optimize their sound, and
the supporting amplification and equilization circuitry built around that as
a system. Most aftermarket speakers must compromise between performance and
compatibility with standard impedences and such. Who knows what brilliant
mind was behind the flaming rear speaker trick, but I think much of the bad
press Bose has gotten in this forum has been undeserved. Remember too, if
you're trying to compare the stock stuff in your '91 to the latest from MB
Quart, there is also nearly 10 years difference.
-Rick at www.importpartsspec.com has been my parts supplier for my Audi and
my old '75 Mercedes. They don't have online ordering, but they are very
friendly, have decent prices, and really treat customers well. Sometimes
you do pay a bit more, but the customer service is outstanding.
(Disclaimer - I have no financial interest here)
-The Bentley books are a must have for working on these cars. They
certainly do not have everything, but between the books, the 200q20v
archives, and Chris' & Scott's websites, a person can accomplish alot.
More information about the 200q20v