[200q20v] Warped UFO's - not anymore!
QSHIPQ at aol.com
QSHIPQ at aol.com
Wed Jan 31 08:44:06 EST 2001
In a message dated 1/30/01 10:46:48 AM Central Standard Time,
b.m.benz at prodigy.net writes:
> Please tell us why you replaced the control arms, and not just the inner
> control arm bushings. Nothing to wear out on the control arms. I have
> had to replace the sway bar to control arm bushings on my 250K 5KTQ, but
> the 200-20V yet at only 130K.
Data point: Paul's car is over 220k... Er, since I did the work (including
luckily finding out that the 18mm C/A's were the wrong ones, and finding out
that you can indeed put the left c/a on the right:), I can share that the
outer ball joints on Paul's car had about .250 play in them, in fact the
inner bushings weren't really all that bad. The play in the outer ball
joints is what I believe gave the symptoms of warped rotors, when indeed it
was the whole wheel and tire wobbling during braking. The parts Paul
supplied included 5ktq 18mm B/J front C/A, and 5k upper strut bushings, when
the 200tq 19mm B/J and v8/S4 upper strut bushings (these in *great* shape)
were on the car. This was a *huge* risk (on the improper B/J), since the
pinch bolt on a 18mm B/J will allow the joint to exit the upright. Make sure
you get the right parts, this could've been ugly. That said, interesting
that the right and left C/A's can be installed backwards, I never thought
that possible. Learn something new everyday... If you have 130k on the
original SB bushings Bernie, do them, you'll notice a huge difference.
Absolute the *best* 60bux you'll ever spend.
> When you free up the tie rod ends, take them off the rods and lube the
> threads and the taper clamp washer with waterproof grease. You'll never
> have the problem again.
Not my experience Bernie. The problem with the tie rods is usually the
monkey lads, but audi shares some of the blame as well. The inner threaded
coller is aluminum, the nuts, clamp washer and both ends of the tie rod is
steel. Add a bit of salt... I've tried grease, antiseize etc, and still
find that the tie rods stick. Heat and patience is the best remedy, IME.
That said, I believe it was the rear toe adjustment that was the problem in
> All brake rotors tend to wear true so, short of a major thermal trama, well
> used rotors are better performers than new or newly machined.
Agreed. I personally like the UFO's when they are working, when they aren't,
the price of rotors is a source of "major thermal trauma" to the guy needing
to replace them.
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