[200q20v] how to replace fuel injectors 200q20v
nhvonhof at home.com
Tue Jul 24 20:35:45 EDT 2001
Here is a great write-up by Gene Caldwell on this subject. Many thanks to Gene!
-Neil Vonhof, Seattle
Subject: Re: [200q20v] 3B likes clean fuel injectors (long)
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 11:06:40 -0500
From: Gene Caldwell <optic at halcyon.com>
To: Peter Schulz <peschulz at cisco.com>, Neil Vonhof <nhv at citylinq.com>
Peter Schulz wrote:
> Gene :
> this has just about sold me...my 200 starts hard, runs rich and struggles
> to get to 20 mpg.
> How much labor was involved in R&R ing the injectors?
>- Peter Schulz
Injector R&R turned out to be easier than I expected. I couldn't find a
description of the process in the Bentley or anywhere else, so I'll
comment on my experience extensively here. Took about 1.5 hour each for
remove and replace. A fair amount of that time was spent with oil
(Pentosin) dipped Qtips to clean out the crud in the injector seats.
These are plastic inserts that are screwed into the manifold. I didn't
have a large enough allen wrench or I might have tried removing them,
but I think someone else on list broke one of these, so Qtips seemed
like a good option. Not hard, just takes patience and about 100 or so
Qtips, ymmv. I wouldn't attempt to do this without a non-frigid (>50F)
sheltered place to work. The fingers need to do some fiddly work, and
when I get cold I become impatient and clumsy.
Tools I used:
5mm ball-end allen wrench (sort of like a u-joint allen wrench)
17mm open/box end wrench
10mm socket (1/4 drive)
1/4 drive ratchet and short extension
short flat blade screwdriver
medium flat blade screwdriver
18" long large flat blade screwdriver (very useful)
small wood block (wooden brass bristle brush handle)
lots of Qtips
Pentosin (1-2 tbsp)
Be aware of usual cautions when working with (potentially) pressurized
fuel system. Use plenty of rags or paper towels to catch fuel
spray/drips. Avoid using excessive force. Instead use plenty of
persistant pressure and coaxing.
Remove the fuel pressure regulator, this will give more working room
around the rear injector. Also a good item to just replace (~$50 from
TPC I believe), especially if you're running rich. Bentley describes
this R&R (I can describe this if you don't have a Bentley). One caution
on the pressure regulator, use a short screwdriver to pry/coax off the
rubber vacuum line from bottom of regulator. This hose can barely be
seen, and disappears toward rear of engine. I didn't want to break it
and compound my work.
Disconnect front banjo from fuel rail. I used some string to hold the
front fuel line up and away from the injector area. Take care not to
scratch the banjo bolt/washers/fuel rail sealing surfaces.
Remove the two allen screws holding the fuel rail.
Disconnect the injector electrical connectors. I used both hands to
make sure I got the release spring fully compressed before pulling.
They should pop off fairly easily.
Remove the squared retaining c-clips holding each injector in place in
the fuel rail. Some came off with finger pressure, others needed some
assistance from a screwdriver.
Now the moment of truth. The injectors and fuel rail are now held only
by the grip of the O-rings on either end of the injectors. Apply a
squirt of WD40 to each injector where it plugs into the manifold. I
used my block and long screwdriver to pry along the fuel rail, but
mostly at the front end. My intent was to work the assembly apart one
injector at a time rather than all at once. Try to keep the resulting
pressure in line with the direction of the injectors to minimize the
chance of breaking one. You can work the rail back and forth a little
to help break the O-ring seal and help the WD40 work in. Be on guard
for a sudden release. My rail came free with one injector stuck in it,
the other injectors remined plugged into the manifold. A wide blade
screwdriver can be twisted between the manifold and individual injectors
to ease them out. Clean out the inserts.
Most just removal in reverse. I used Pentosin to lube the O-rings for
I chose to install the injectors in the fuel rail first so I wouldn't
have to deal with those pesky clips in a tough to access position. I
pointed the open end of the clips opposite the electrical connectors so
they'd be easier to remove the next time. Align the injectors so the
electrical connectors are perpendicular to the rail. The rearmost
injector is angled forward somewhat to allow clearance around the
throttle mechanism, but not too much which would obstruct access to the
rail bracket screw hole.
More Pentosin swabbed into the inserts for lube. Get the electrical
connectors out of the way by whatever means are available, being careful
not to break any wires. Then install the rail/injector assembly. Don't
let the injector ends touch anything dirty on the way in. Everything
should slide fairly easily into place. The rear rail bracket on mine
hung slightly on the manifold going in, I think it was some paint
buildup on the rail getting caught on the mounting pad. Otherwise no
Fasten rail to manifold, don't overtorque the allen screws (7 ft-lb?).
Replace fuel regulator and front fuel line. The usual stress on being
very clean especially applies to the metal-metal sealing at the fuel
system junctons. I managed to reuse the old banjo sealing rings, new
ones on hand would have been a better idea. I didn't use much torque on
any fuel connection, just enough to prevent leaking.
Start the motor. It may take a few cranks to pressurize the fuel
system. There was about 2-3 seconds of crusty running at initial
startup while air was purged, then it ran dead smooth.
Make _triple_sure_ that all fuel system connections don't leak! My
front rail banjo was oozing, but not visibly. I took it apart, cleaned
everything again, switched around the seals, and then it was dry. I
kept dragging my finger under the fittings while the engine was running
to make sure there was no oozing. Also a lot of staring at the fuel
pressure regulator connection.
Just to be on the safer side I bought a $12 fire extinguisher that stays
in the car.
If you go ahead and do this, let me know your results.
C1J1Miller at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/24/01 3:13:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> knotnook at traverse.com writes:
> > Maybe Chris Miller could add Steve's description of the process to his
> > 200q20v website???????
> Hey, I was waiting for Peter Schulz's writeup and photos; but when I spoke to
> him this weekend, he told me the photos turned out poorly.
> I'll add Steve's writeup...
> 200q20v mailing list
> 200q20v at audifans.com
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