[200q20v] Tech report: Broken Stud removal

Paul Waterloo pwaterloo at compuserve.com
Sat Mar 10 16:25:53 EST 2001

To anyone in the Chicago area that does not do there own work (or wants to
get away from it!):

I would recommend Scott, he's seen a lot of Audi's in his time, you don't
have to learn,  just pay him, he will do it like it's his own car!

Just a plug for somebody I recently used.....and seems to be very fair.

Paul Waterloo
Applied Energy Services
Phone 708-524-9464
Fax 708-524-0079
Voicemail/pager 888-962-7304
pwaterloo at compuserve.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <QSHIPQ at aol.com>
To: <audidudi at mindspring.com>
Cc: <urq at audifans.com>; <quattro at audifans.com>; <torsen at audifans.com>;
<v8 at audifans.com>; <200q20v at audifans.com>; <audi20v at rennlist.org>;
<s-car-list at yahoogroups.com>; <ned at intendedacceleration.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 11:44 AM
Subject: [200q20v] Tech report: Broken Stud removal

> The MacGuyver victronics silver cross award goes to....
> ....  Jeff Goggin today for the stud removal procedure he's posted over
> years
> After reading Jeff's posts a few times wrt using a welder and some vice
> to remove broken studs, I decided to try the self study course.  I did a
> total of 16 (between 5 heads in my shop yesterday, the last for the actual
> customer car).  After some practice, I'm now confident that the absolute
> worst studs (totally crudded head, 1/4in recessed stud) can be extracted
> this method, leaving a perfectly clean intact and new looking threads in
> head.  All studs, from *all* heads came out using this method.
> The procedure:
> Using a welder, slowly build up a bead of weld on top of the stud, until
> clears the surface of the head.  Using vice grips, grab the weld and twist
> out the stud remains.  I used an oxymig at the slowest wire feed, and a
> medium high setting (110v 30amp welder) - ground clamp to the #1 cam
> The patient:
> 85 5k fwd, warped exhaust manifold popped #1 and #2 upper and lower studs.
> This car already had the upgraded studs and washer/nuts found on the later
> turbo cars.
> The problems I encountered:
> On a couple of them, the weld would break before the stud would break
> I just kept going at it, rewelding until the stud broke free.  Some times
> this took over 6 applications of the weld bead technique
> Suggestions I found worked:
> *  On one of the studs, I found that someone had overtorqued the stud so
> it ruined the top threads of the hole.  I used a drill bit and opened up
> hole a bit until it had slightly cut the top threads.  Then rocked the
> back and forth (applying some WD) until it cut it's way out of the top
> *  Another stud I found was really in the head solidly.  After 6 repeated
> attempts, I drilled two holes and made a slot in the top of the stud, then
> did the weld technique again (effectively welding a screwdriver tip into
> stud).
> *  Yet another stud broke free (finger tight) just by applying the first
> bead to it (adding credence to Jeff's surmise that the effect of the weld
> electrolysis itself loosens the bond between the two materials)
> *  Using a hammer on the top of the bead each time, I tempered the bead,
> which appeared to reduce the chances of shearing the bead off the stud.
> *  Allowing each bead to cool before adding more material, is the key to
> getting this right.
> * I used the slowest wire feed setting on my welder (mig - med high amp
> setting)  basically dropping weld beads onto weld beads.
> As this was my first attempt at this procedure, I took the easy route (85
> fwd) and pulled the head to get the studs out on the customer car.  I have
> doubt that this procedure can be done in the car, it's just a tougher job,
> and if number 4 or 5 is toasted, bigger than just removing the head
> I found that someone had been in this car before, and didn't shave the
> manifold, and it was really not flat.  Don't replace the studs if you
> *aren't* going to get the manifold machined, or you will be doing the
> again really soon.
> This procedure negates *any* need for the drill and helicoil procedure
> the dealer uses.  The biggest problem with the drill and helicoil is
> a straight hole, and not going thru to the water jacket beneath.
> Kudos Jeff, I'm a believer, the "knife" is yours sir.  I tried calling
> yesterday, but didn't get him, so I called Lawson and shared the awesome
> btdt.  This procedure beggers belief until you give it a try....  From a
> customer perspective, I doubt this procedure is any *cheaper* in terms of
> actual time/cost, but it certainly is the right and better way to fix this
> common audi malady.
> Scott Justusson
> Stud removal specialist emuritus
> QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
> Chicago IL
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