trunk wiring help?!
bernardl at acumenassociates.com
Sun Aug 18 11:18:27 EDT 2002
> Patient is a 200Q20v.
> I do get 12v on the reverse light circuit when I put
> my negative multimeter lead on a metal object but not
> on the ground for bulb so the reverse switch is good.
> Bulbs are new.
> Found some cracked wiring jackets but no broken wires.
> After wrapping up the cracked jackets with electric
> tape, the driver-side parking light stopped working.
> Cut the wiring bundle that has the reverse and parking
> light wires out of the car for an out of the car
> inspection (it's hot outside) and found no faulty
> wires. Where else should I look? I'm sure after I
> put the wiring harness together again (it's too hot to
> solder for now) my reverse lights still won't work and
> the drivierside parking still won't work.
On my 5ktq, I had both cracked insulation and broken wires. At least one of
the cracked insulation wires was making an intermittent contact. I wound up
cutting all the wires, stripping them, and crimping in a short loop of new
wire. I used 2 crimp type butt connectors per original wire: original
wire - butt connector - extra wire - butt connector - original wire. The
are all color coded, so matching is easy. I needed two sizes of butt
connectors (and wire) 10/12 ga, and 14/16 ga. I think only the ground used
the larger size.
I would not solder, it's too brittle, and what a pain to do back there.
Much has been posted on crimp tools on this list, so you can check the
archives. If you don't own a ratcheting crimp tool, this would be a good
time to buy one. Those cheap ones that come it electrical tool "kits" are
worthless. Here is an example of a ratchet style crimp tool, I am sure it
is neither the best one nor is it at the best price, but I could find it
easily on the web:
I use the $50ish one, the $120 seems like overkill.
I now have no more funny problems with the rear lights. Also cured a
crackle in the stereo speaker back there.
More information about the 200q20v