rao at pixar.com
Mon Feb 25 06:30:53 EST 2002
When my MAF sensor went, the symptoms were vaguely similar, but I don't
think it even reached 1.3 bar. Besides, the check engine light went on,
and the fault code unequivocally indicated a faulty sensor. So the
first thing you should do is to dump the codes.
Hope that helps.
Brett Dikeman wrote:
> At 12:27 AM -0500 2/25/02, Chris Covington wrote:
>> Rumor has it that my 1.0+ bar boost bucking problem could be a dirty MAF
>> corrupted by my K&N panel filter. Could someone describe how to "clean"
>> the MAF, or do I potentially need a new one?
> They can't be cleaned, unless the buildup is recent.
> Why? Because each time you shut off the car, the thing heats the
> wire up to may hundreds of degrees, burning any residue.
> Note I didn't say burning OFF any residue.
> The majority of oil, dust, etc may get vaporized, but enough gets
> left behind. Someone(Brandon, I think) sent me a toasted MAF sensor
> once, and I looked it over to see if in fact it could be cleaned.
> I tried 6 different solvents/cleaners with a q-tip and was able only
> to get a slight residue removed from the wire.
> A MAF sensor failure would be fairly exotic. I would look for an
> intake system leak, such a loose hose clamp, or a busted Samco
> hose(yes, I think that split is all the way through.)
> Given your comments about the Samco hose, that's the first place I
> would look. Basically, 1.0bar indicated is a lot more(probably
> around 1.2-1.3) on a chipped car w/different pressure sensor. .8
> displayed = 1.0 Bar real-life. The shuddering is caused by the
> flapping of the split or loose hose. The hose is doing a "motorboat"
> and thus you get the shuddering as that metered air escapes.
> "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary
> safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin
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