[200q20v] aftermarket/Audi shift knobs to replace worn-out stock unit

Phil Rose pjrose at frontiernet.net
Sat Jan 26 16:33:29 EST 2002

>Hi Listers,
>What are you using, and what would you recommend as a replacement?  I could
>buy a factory replacement for $80 thru the dealer, but am interested in
>finding out which other Audi knobs would fit.
>Anyone using a UUC, Momo or Voodoo knob?  Any universal units that you'd

What's wrong with that nice walnut OEM knob (other than the fact that
it ain't zebrano)? The knobs don't usually get "worn-out"-- just in
need of a little attention. Also, if you are a woodturner (or know
someone who is) it's not at all difficult to reproduce the OEM knob
in walnut or using an even richer-looking, more durable, dark brown
wood. I'll bet a good woodturner would do it for significantly under
$80. Chris Miller's car has a nice knob that's an exact reproduction
of the oem shape--but made of a dense reddish-brown tropical hardwood
called "Cocobolo".  There are a number of other easily obtained
tropical woods that can make a nice alternative to walnut and will
blend nicely with the car interior.

I think the look of a wooden knob in the OEM-shape is more elegant
and IMO also more distinctive than the Audi leather-covered knobs.
The original knob is one of the eye-catching characteristics of this
model (and 5-spd V8). My credo is: avoid "mongrelizing" the classy
'91 200q with after-market doo-dads and gimcrackery if at all
possible.   OK, sorry for the sappy preaching. :-)

So, before going to the "alternatives" (universal or otherwise) you
should consider refinishing. I've done that with my car's worn shift
knob. A worn oem knob becomes relatively easy to renovate if you have
a lathe or drill press (maybe even just a variable-speed electric
drill.) A long 12x1.5 mm bolt (with the head removed) can be gripped
by a 1/2" drill chuck and acts as a mandrel to let you spin the knob
during the light sanding operation. The plastic shift-pattern
"button" can be pried off to avoid scuffing (and is easily
reattached). All that's usually needed is a few minutes sanding with
a medium-grit followed by fine-grit abrasive paper (say, 120 or 150
grit followed by perhaps 220 or 320).  That gets the old, scratched
finish off and the walnut will look very smooth and uniform. But be
forwarned: it will then look sickeningly pale and colorless--until
some kind of clear finish is applied. Then it comes alive again! The
finish needn't be anything more complicated than a simple application
of Danish oil, but it would be much better to apply 2 or 3 coats of
clear, diluted varnish. The finish is rubbed in well with a  cotton
rag--removing all excess--and allowed to dry between coats.  Lacquer
would also be an OK finish.

Of course there's always the elongated  black plastic knob with
titanium trim and lighted interior.  ;-)


Phil Rose				Rochester, NY
'91 200q	(130 Kmiles, Lago blue)
'91 200q   (57 Kmiles, Tornado red)
	mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net

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