[200q20v] Re: Lifting Stains... and Gains

QSHIPQ at aol.com QSHIPQ at aol.com
Tue Jan 29 01:10:33 EST 2002

A couple things Glen:
I've run a variety of cams in my 10vt, all of them with adjustable cam gears
-6>+6 since 1992.  You can slightly vary when the power comes on, but only by
a couple hundred rpm.  The 276 to me was waaay unacceptable, and the best
lift cam from shrick  is the 272 (11.1mm), so not sure why you'd want the 276
anyhow.  That said, the 272 can be ground to have less overlap, and work
better than the stocker.  But comparing both back to back in under an hour,
the stock cams from audi are tough to beat.  What I found is that the 272
gets the same boost level down low, but the overlap prevents that boost from
building power.  At 4000rpm (+/- 500rpm based on cam gear) that pup screams.
I'd still put dollars to donuts if you are runniing the 272 in unmodded trim,
the stock cam profile will give you the same performance as the 272.  Since
you run the k24, you are heat soaking it early in the rpm band.  Add to that,
the 272 with my RS2 turbo 10v could put a drain on the gas tank really fast
(like 12-16mpg).  The reason is that the fuel is going right thru to the EM.

Right now I'm running the ABT 10vt turbo cam, which is much friendlier to the
CIS flap (it idles very smoothly), and has another 7-800rpm advantage over
the 272 in the lower rpms.  I'm at -0- cam timing now, and think it could use
about 1.5-2.0 advance to really get it working well.   But since you aren't
changing overlap your gains are not optimal anyway.

WRT 20vt cams, remember the cam timing is very not adjustable. You don't have
2 cam gears driven by a belt, you have one cam gear driven by a belt the
other by a cam chain.  Both cams have fixed cam sprockets, so adj cam timing
on the 20v I5 is going to be really tough.


Scott Justusson
'87 5ktqw10vRS2turboABT cam -0-
'84 RS2URQ
'83 URQ WR cam -0-

In a message dated 1/28/02 6:32:52 PM Central Standard Time,
fundsaloracing at yahoo.com writes:

the cam to the crank. I've been advised that the
Schrick 272 is as agressive as one should go, for
example, with the 10v, but that the 276 is usable with
the correct cam/crank timing relationship via an adj
cam gear. Cam advance = more
low-end/throttle-response. I run the 272 at 0 degrees
and it work great for me with the K24 in the 10v. I
hear that some advance is absolutely mandatory with
the 276. Theory should apply to the 20v as well. YMMV.
Really wish I had a cam-grinder, a dyno and lotsah

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