From Gabo at maffia.hu Mon Jul 1 00:09:17 2002 From: Gabo at maffia.hu (=?iso-8859-2?Q?Endr=F5di_G=E1bor?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Bucking problems In-Reply-To: <20020629211943.81449.qmail@web10108.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20020629211943.81449.qmail@web10108.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: HI SO after the last week problem I wrote, the idle speed thing is solved. I have pulled out the codes and the computer blinked it. 2341 leaks or ignition or fuel problems, 2111 rpm sender, 2113 Hall sender, 2324 MAF sensor. The symptom is: under full acceleration the car starts run good but at 1.3-1.4 Bar boost the acceleration becomes poor. The boost reaches 1.8, but the acceleration is same poor. If I let the acc pedal come back a little the acceleration is better, but not good as done it before. Any suggestion? Should I have to replace the distributor as somebody did it februar, or what else? Thanks From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Mon Jul 1 00:12:54 2002 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 5k/200 suspension interchageability questions Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020630231013.02392928@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Fellow listers, The 200q20v that I'm currently parting has a very nice lowered sport suspension that a friend of mine with an '87 5ktq would like to have. I know that the rear suspension is different (at least PNs are) between both cars, but could he install the rear setup in his car anyway or not? Has anyone BTDT with such a thing? Thanks in advance for your answers, Mihnea From SuffolkD at aol.com Mon Jul 1 02:54:02 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ECU resetting 200q20v digest Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I got this e-mail digest which had this info below: Would this work for diagnostic(s)? Independent from stored fault codes? A bad idea? -Scott in Boston **Quick & Easy Way to Reset Your Car's ECM/ECU - Thanks to Kevin H. (from his own experience)** So...you just got your new high performance exhaust system, intake or whatever.? Now you want immediate results, right?? Okay, it's now time to reset your ECM/ECU for optimum performance. The good news - this will only take about two or three minutes! Step 1: Turn your key to the accessory (ACC) position. Step 2: Disconnect your battery's positive, yes I said positive, terminal cable. Step 3: Wait 30 seconds. Now tap the terminal cable to the positive battery post three times. Step 4: Reconnect terminal cable. That's it!? You've now reset your computer.? Now, wasn't that simple? You might also want to refer to the tech tip, ECU Resets When Adding Performance Parts, in the April edition of Import Auto News at http://www.autohausaz.com/html/import-auto-news-april02.html#ECUResets From Chewy4000 at aol.com Mon Jul 1 10:24:22 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: reseting ecu Message-ID: <4D8F20B5.27F6F4FB.022A5BF8@aol.com> In a message dated Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:54:02 AM Eastern Standard Time, SuffolkD writes: > > > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > I got this e-mail digest which had this info below: > Would this work for diagnostic(s)? > Independent from stored fault codes? > A bad idea? > -Scott in Boston > **Quick & Easy Way to Reset Your Car's ECM/ECU - Thanks to Kevin H. (from > his own experience)** > So...you just got your new high performance exhaust system, intake or > whatever. Now you want immediate results, right? Okay, it's now time to > reset your ECM/ECU for optimum performance. The good news - this will only > take about two or three minutes! > > Step 1: Turn your key to the accessory (ACC) position. > Step 2: Disconnect your battery's positive, yes I said positive, terminal > cable. > Step 3: Wait 30 seconds. Now tap the terminal cable to the positive battery > post three times. > Step 4: Reconnect terminal cable. > > That's it! You've now reset your computer. Now, wasn't that simple? You > might also want to refer to the tech tip, ECU Resets When Adding > Performance Parts, in the April edition of Import Auto News at > http://www.autohausaz.com/html/import-auto-news-april02.html > #ECUResets > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v Not only will you reset your ecu i think but also kill your abs system, atleast fuses. Many more componenets might be damaged to on our cars. Chewy From dans at audifans.com Mon Jul 1 14:01:16 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: does the factory radio suck? Message-ID: <3D208ADC.3E839009@audifans.com> I replaced my antenna with the Fuba from Antennaworld, and reception is much better. However, reception is notably worse than in my Jetta with factory radio and antenna. Is the stock Audi radio just crappy in the tuner section? From maximum at weetamoo.com Mon Jul 1 11:56:26 2002 From: maximum at weetamoo.com (maximum@weetamoo.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: does the factory radio suck? Message-ID: <20020701105627.384.h002.c001.wm@mail.weetamoo.com.criticalpath.net> Could be... I'm running the stock antenna set up with an aftermarket head unit and both reception and sensitivity are quite good. Royal aka 20RoT On Mon, 01 July 2002, Dan Simoes wrote > > I replaced my antenna with the Fuba from Antennaworld, and reception is > much better. However, reception is notably worse than in my Jetta with > factory radio and antenna. Is the stock Audi radio just crappy in the > tuner section? > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Mon Jul 1 15:19:01 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: reseting ecu Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I've touched the postitive cable to the battery a few times before (although not intentionally) while I was trying to work on something and it doesn't do anything to the car at all. I don't see why it would. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Chewy4000@aol.com To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: reseting ecu Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:24:22 -0400 Received: from [64.205.178.107] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBEE9A3C800964004316240CDB26BD3660; Mon, 01 Jul 2002 06:27:38 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 56BE527C; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:30:18 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 984DC22B; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:30:16 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 2CBE7272; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:27:58 -0400 (EDT) Received: from imo-d08.mx.aol.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id D506122Bfor <200q20v@audifans.com>; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:27:57 -0400 (EDT) Received: from Chewy4000@aol.comby imo-d08.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.21.) id e.16c.fe1a2b9 (16099) for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:25:08 -0400 (EDT) Received: from aol.com (mow-m14.webmail.aol.com [64.12.180.130]) by air-id11.mx.aol.com (v86_r1.13) with ESMTP id MAILINID113-0701092508; Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:25:08 2000 From dans at audifans.com Mon Jul 1 15:52:29 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: your chance to buy euro lights for cheap(er) Message-ID: <3D20A4ED.75348BE1@audifans.com> From dans at audifans.com Mon Jul 1 15:53:15 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: bilstein group purchase Message-ID: <3D20A51B.EA193FF2@audifans.com> It looks like the price on a set of 4 Bilstein HDs will be under $400. If you want in, let me know soon. Thanks. From brett at cloud9.net Mon Jul 1 16:02:09 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ECU resetting 200q20v digest In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 1:54 AM -0400 7/1/02, SuffolkD@aol.com wrote: >A bad idea? Yes. The ECU in our cars is -very- simply, 100% reset by simply pulling the two fuses under the red plastic double-fuse shield marked "MOTOR". 30 seconds should do it. The proper way is to use VAG-COM or a VAG1551, since both can clear the codes without erasing the adaptive memory. Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From jeremyp at mindspring.com Mon Jul 1 13:22:33 2002 From: jeremyp at mindspring.com (Jeremy Palenchar) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ECU resetting 200q20v digest In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <002701c22134$a6da8530$7001000a@palencj> Brett, I believe the idea was to EXPLICITLY erase the adaptive memory after upgrading the car. Does pulling the Motor fuses do this? Thanks! -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Brett Dikeman Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 12:02 PM To: SuffolkD@aol.com; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Re: ECU resetting 200q20v digest At 1:54 AM -0400 7/1/02, SuffolkD@aol.com wrote: >A bad idea? Yes. The ECU in our cars is -very- simply, 100% reset by simply pulling the two fuses under the red plastic double-fuse shield marked "MOTOR". 30 seconds should do it. The proper way is to use VAG-COM or a VAG1551, since both can clear the codes without erasing the adaptive memory. Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From wolff at turboquattro.com Mon Jul 1 13:45:37 2002 From: wolff at turboquattro.com (wolff@turboquattro.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: reseting ecu References: Message-ID: <001401c22137$df59d700$6401a8c0@lexx> Repeatedly touching the connector isn't going to clear anything anymore than just disconnecting the battery would..... "Nobody can forget the sound." - Michele Mouton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Audi Sport" To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 11:19 AM Subject: Re: reseting ecu > [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > > I've touched the postitive cable to the battery a few times before (although > not intentionally) while I was trying to work on something and it doesn't do > anything to the car at all. I don't see why it would. > ----Original Message Follows---- > From: Chewy4000@aol.com > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: reseting ecu > Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 09:24:22 -0400 > Received: from [64.205.178.107] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id > MHotMailBEE9A3C800964004316240CDB26BD3660; Mon, 01 Jul 2002 06:27:38 -0700 > Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 56BE527C; Mon, 1 Jul > 2002 09:30:18 -0400 (EDT) > Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com > (Postfix) with ESMTPid 984DC22B; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:30:16 -0400 (EDT) > Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 2CBE7272; Mon, 1 Jul > 2002 09:27:58 -0400 (EDT) > Received: from imo-d08.mx.aol.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com > (Postfix) with ESMTP id D506122Bfor <200q20v@audifans.com>; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 > 09:27:57 -0400 (EDT) > Received: from Chewy4000@aol.comby imo-d08.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.21.) id > e.16c.fe1a2b9 (16099) for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 09:25:08 > -0400 (EDT) > Received: from aol.com (mow-m14.webmail.aol.com [64.12.180.130]) by > air-id11.mx.aol.com (v86_r1.13) with ESMTP id MAILINID113-0701092508; Mon, 01 > Jul 2002 09:25:08 2000 > From 200q20v-admin@audifans.com Mon, 01 Jul 2002 06:27:50 -0700 > Delivered-To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Message-ID: <4D8F20B5.27F6F4FB.022A5BF8@aol.com> > X-Mailer: Atlas Mailer 2.0 > Sender: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com > Errors-To: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com > X-BeenThere: 200q20v@audifans.com > X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.8 > Precedence: bulk > List-Unsubscribe: , > List-Id: 200q20v list <200q20v.audifans.com> > List-Post: > List-Help: > List-Subscribe: , > List-Archive: > In a message dated Mon, 1 Jul 2002 12:54:02 AM Eastern Standard Time, SuffolkD > writes: > > > > > > -- > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > > > I got this e-mail digest which had this info below: > > Would this work for diagnostic(s)? > > Independent from stored fault codes? > > A bad idea? > > -Scott in Boston > > **Quick & Easy Way to Reset Your Car's ECM/ECU - Thanks to Kevin H. (from > > his own experience)** > > So...you just got your new high performance exhaust system, intake or > > whatever. Now you want immediate results, right? Okay, it's now time to > > reset your ECM/ECU for optimum performance. The good news - this will only > > take about two or three minutes! > > > > Step 1: Turn your key to the accessory (ACC) position. > > Step 2: Disconnect your battery's positive, yes I said positive, terminal > > cable. > > Step 3: Wait 30 seconds. Now tap the terminal cable to the positive battery > > post three times. > > Step 4: Reconnect terminal cable. > > > > That's it! You've now reset your computer. Now, wasn't that simple? You > > might also want to refer to the tech tip, ECU Resets When Adding > > Performance Parts, in the April edition of Import Auto News at > > http://www.autohausaz.com/html/import-auto-news-april02.html > > #ECUResets > > _______________________________________________ > > 200q20v mailing list > > 200q20v@audifans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > Not only will you reset your ecu i think but also kill your abs system, > atleast fuses. Many more componenets might be damaged to on our cars. > Chewy > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] > > ===References:=== > 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From brett at cloud9.net Mon Jul 1 17:20:10 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ECU resetting 200q20v digest In-Reply-To: <002701c22134$a6da8530$7001000a@palencj> References: <002701c22134$a6da8530$7001000a@palencj> Message-ID: At 12:22 PM -0700 7/1/02, Jeremy Palenchar wrote: >Brett, > >I believe the idea was to EXPLICITLY erase the adaptive memory after >upgrading the car. Does pulling the Motor fuses do this? Yes; the motronic's non-volatile memory(fault codes, adaptive memory) is really just battery-backed memory...powered via the additional fuse. Pull both, ECU looses all power and the memory is lost within seconds. B -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From Chewy4000 at aol.com Mon Jul 1 17:40:28 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v Message-ID: <02732534.502AF90E.022A5BF8@aol.com> did anybody see this ad. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840762540 Chewy From t44tq at mindspring.com Mon Jul 1 18:11:56 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v In-Reply-To: <02732534.502AF90E.022A5BF8@aol.com> Message-ID: <001c01c22143$eea60ba0$0d42fea9@newpc> Tom Chudzinski's car? No way. Taka -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Chewy4000@aol.com Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 4:40 PM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: ebay 200 20v did anybody see this ad. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840762540 Chewy _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From malth at umich.edu Mon Jul 1 18:23:19 2002 From: malth at umich.edu (Chris Covington) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v In-Reply-To: <001c01c22143$eea60ba0$0d42fea9@newpc> Message-ID: Who is that dude anyway? I saw Brett's page and now have recently heard of his infamy, but I don't recall ever seeing him post to the list or having ever emailed him / him emailing me. Cov On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, TM wrote: > Tom Chudzinski's car? No way. > > Taka > > -----Original Message----- > From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On > Behalf Of Chewy4000@aol.com > Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 4:40 PM > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: ebay 200 20v > > > did anybody see this ad. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840762540 > > Chewy From pwpetersen at earthlink.net Mon Jul 1 16:27:38 2002 From: pwpetersen at earthlink.net (Peter Petersen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: (no subject) Message-ID: <000001c22146$2109c170$59c3ea43@AFSCAL.afsglobal.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Strange new problem on the Audi now that the whether is hot. There is excessive pressure in the fuel tank. The valve for the carbon canister is working fine. Not that it could handle this volume though. I thought perhaps the pump was staying on after the car shuts off and the entire tank was being heated as it flows through the rail. But, as yet, I have not found that to be the case. This would however account for the volume of gas I'm talking about: serious fume problem. Any btdt's? Pete -- From C1J1Miller at aol.com Mon Jul 1 18:45:19 2002 From: C1J1Miller at aol.com (C1J1Miller@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1020 - 4 msgs Message-ID: <84.2aa5c4af.2a52276f@aol.com> Do it the easy and safe way: Open hood, uncover fuse box, and find the two engine computer fuses on the side rail (mine have a plastic orange cover over them, connecting them). Pull fuses, wait several minutes, replace. Might also work well on a track day: warm up car first, clear learned settings, then go blast around the track. In a message dated 7/1/02 12:08:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 200q20v-request@audifans.com writes: From: SuffolkD@aol.com Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 01:54:02 EDT Subject: Re: ECU resetting 200q20v digest To: 200q20v@audifans.com -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I got this e-mail digest which had this info below: Would this work for diagnostic(s)? Independent from stored fault codes? A bad idea? -Scott in Boston **Quick & Easy Way to Reset Your Car's ECM/ECU - Thanks to Kevin H. (from his own experience)** So...you just got your new high performance exhaust system, intake or whatever.=A0 Now you want immediate results, right?=A0 Okay, it's now time = to reset your ECM/ECU for optimum performance. The good news - this will only take about two or three minutes! Step 1: Turn your key to the accessory (ACC) position. Step 2: Disconnect your battery's positive, yes I said positive, terminal cable. Step 3: Wait 30 seconds. Now tap the terminal cable to the positive battery post three times. Step 4: Reconnect terminal cable. That's it!=A0 You've now reset your computer.=A0 Now, wasn't that simple? Y= ou might also want to refer to the tech tip, ECU Resets When Adding Performance Parts, in the April edition of Import Auto News at http://www.autohausaz.com/html/import-auto-news-april02.html#ECUResets ____________________________________________________ Chris Miller, Bolton MA USA, c1j1miller@aol.com '91 200q20v ==> http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html ____________________________________________________ From brett at cloud9.net Mon Jul 1 18:45:20 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v In-Reply-To: <001c01c22143$eea60ba0$0d42fea9@newpc> References: <001c01c22143$eea60ba0$0d42fea9@newpc> Message-ID: At 5:11 PM -0400 7/1/02, TM wrote: >Tom Chudzinski's car? No way. No! Tom C. was in California, this is a CT car. This looks like another Tom, who was a 200q20v lister for a while, he may still be on the list. I recognized the ebay handle, same as his email address. I don't remember much except that he did post/contribute in a positive manner. For those who don't know who Tom Chudzinski is(again, not the seller), check out: http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/tom.html (I purposefully don't link to it from my homepage) He qualifies as one of very few people to actually physically threaten me via email, but he promptly shut up when I posted the above link to the 200q20v and main lists(and when a fellow lister, who among other qualifications used to be an MP, invited Tom to come and take HIM on.) Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From info4mjs at worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 1 18:55:40 2002 From: info4mjs at worldnet.att.net (mike stricker) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v References: <02732534.502AF90E.022A5BF8@aol.com> Message-ID: <002a01c2214a$0b97f600$6fa55a0c@m2p3d0> This car is been on the market for quite sometime. I didn't have the time to check it out when I was looking but it sounded interesting. The story changes a bit but... Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 4:40 PM Subject: ebay 200 20v > did anybody see this ad. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840762540 > > Chewy > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From t44tq at mindspring.com Mon Jul 1 19:00:01 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <002401c2214a$a63c6e70$0d42fea9@newpc> Brett- My bad- for some reason, I thought Tom was in the New England area. Just don't buy a car from Tom Chudzinski. Taka -----Original Message----- From: Brett Dikeman [mailto:brett@cloud9.net] Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 5:45 PM To: TM; Chewy4000@aol.com; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: RE: ebay 200 20v At 5:11 PM -0400 7/1/02, TM wrote: >Tom Chudzinski's car? No way. No! Tom C. was in California, this is a CT car. This looks like another Tom, who was a 200q20v lister for a while, he may still be on the list. I recognized the ebay handle, same as his email address. I don't remember much except that he did post/contribute in a positive manner. For those who don't know who Tom Chudzinski is(again, not the seller), check out: http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/tom.html (I purposefully don't link to it from my homepage) He qualifies as one of very few people to actually physically threaten me via email, but he promptly shut up when I posted the above link to the 200q20v and main lists(and when a fellow lister, who among other qualifications used to be an MP, invited Tom to come and take HIM on.) Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From mikemilr at blackfoot.net Mon Jul 1 17:20:44 2002 From: mikemilr at blackfoot.net (Mike Miller) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v References: <02732534.502AF90E.022A5BF8@aol.com> Message-ID: <001f01c2214d$8f4298e0$0200a8c0@mike> I remember that car and Tom - he was the one that asked list advice about stalling. List consensus was TBV as usual but his dealer wanted to swap out the dash. He went with the dealers idea and when the problem wasn't fixed, he was more than a little unhappy. mike in montana ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Monday, July 01, 2002 2:40 PM Subject: ebay 200 20v > did anybody see this ad. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840762540 > > Chewy > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Mon Jul 1 19:47:59 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: your chance to buy euro lights for cheap(er) Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] By wiring connectors you don't mean the whole wire harness with relays right? ----Original Message Follows---- From: Dan Simoes To: 200 20v <200q20v@audifans.com> Subject: your chance to buy euro lights for cheap(er) Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 14:52:29 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from [64.205.178.107] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBEE9F17800434136E85940CDB26B83DB0; Mon, 01 Jul 2002 11:59:06 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id A3B23346; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 15:01:46 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 75629221; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 15:01:42 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id A7BBC22F; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:55:21 -0400 (EDT) Received: from audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id B15DE221for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Mon, 1 Jul 2002 14:55:20 -0400 (EDT) From Bayviewtom at cs.com Mon Jul 1 22:12:06 2002 From: Bayviewtom at cs.com (Bayviewtom@cs.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ebay 200 20v Message-ID: <84.2aa0c871.2a5257e6@cs.com> In a message dated 7/1/02 4:48:30 PM, Chewy4000@aol.com writes: << http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840762540 >> I did, I'm the seller! Tom From Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com Mon Jul 1 23:06:22 2002 From: Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com (Vincenzo Basile) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ac clutch relay Message-ID: <001801c2216d$12aa55a0$9c26c143@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hi list Just wondering has anyone had the problem of sqeaching in the radio when th= e heats on,and linked it to the ac clutch relay?what exactly has to be chan= ged in that relay?I remember I could buy sometype of resister from radio s= hack instead of getting a whole new relay, if anybody knows exactly what it= is I need I would appreciate the help .thanks -- From dak at rochester.rr.com Mon Jul 1 23:54:59 2002 From: dak at rochester.rr.com (DAK) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ac clutch relay References: <001801c2216d$12aa55a0$9c26c143@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3D211603.7060908@rochester.rr.com> From what I remember about my electronics tinkering days... You can put a small value capacitor across the contacts on the relay to quite that spark. I think on the order or 10 micro Farad, ceramic capacitor. Easily found at Radio Shack or your favorite electronics surplus store. These capacitors are non-polar, so just connect one lead to one of the switch terminals, the other lead to the other switch terminal on the relay. You could get fancy and open the relay and solder it in place. David Vincenzo Basile wrote: >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >Hi list >Just wondering has anyone had the problem of sqeaching in the radio when the heats on,and linked it to the ac clutch relay?what exactly has to be changed in that relay?I remember I could buy sometype of resister from radio shack instead of getting a whole new relay, if anybody knows exactly what it is I need I would appreciate the help .thanks >-- > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > From Zoot531 at aol.com Tue Jul 2 01:51:42 2002 From: Zoot531 at aol.com (Zoot531@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Rally or Auto-x in Nor Cal? Message-ID: Listers, I've long been hearing mention of autocross and perhaps even amature rallying with Audi's. (the latter of which i will shy away from in my car...but the guy down the street has an 87 4k for cheap...hmm). Here's my situation, I live in Northern California, about an hour east of the bay area in the city of Stockton (apparently world famous for it's lax vigilence towards street racers...i won't even get started on that). I've been looking for some events such as these to spectate before actually participating, but my seaches on the internet have turned up close to nothing, especially in regards to amature rallying, which i have heard is fairly popular in the NE part of the country. So i guess I'm just curious where i can go to take in some of these "good times". Best Regards, Adam Chinchiolo '91 From Chewy4000 at aol.com Tue Jul 2 10:18:03 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Rally or Auto-x in Nor Cal? Message-ID: <7216E8C5.71BBF702.022A5BF8@aol.com> In a message dated Mon, 1 Jul 2002 11:51:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, Zoot531 writes: > > > Listers, > > I've long been hearing mention of autocross and perhaps even amature > rallying with Audi's. (the latter of which i will shy away from in my > car...but the guy down the street has an 87 4k for cheap...hmm). Here's my > situation, I live in Northern California, about an hour east of the bay area > in the city of Stockton (apparently world famous for it's lax vigilence > towards street racers...i won't even get started on that). I've been looking > for some events such as these to spectate before actually participating, but > my seaches on the internet have turned up close to nothing, especially in > regards to amature rallying, which i have heard is fairly popular in the NE > part of the country. So i guess I'm just curious where i > can go to take in > some of these "good times". > > > Best Regards, > Adam Chinchiolo > '91 > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v http://www.specialstage.com/ http://www.rallyracingnews.com/ http://www.cwl.com/bensrallypage/ Start in these places. Your looking more into Rally Cross. Chewy From ALPHA1220 at aol.com Tue Jul 2 20:56:27 2002 From: ALPHA1220 at aol.com (ALPHA1220@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Novice + Boost issue = ?No Hope? Message-ID: <15e.10191b14.2a5397ab@aol.com> Here is my situation, maybe some more experienced people can help, since my moderate level of knowledge concerning car mechanics hasn't gotten me very far. I have been driving a 1991 200 20v quattro for approximately 9 months, having taken it out of storage (My Dad drove it from 1991-1995). For as long as I have been driving the car, I have never gotten maximum boost: 1.4 was as high as I was getting in the summer and fall of 01', 1.3 in the winter and spring, now down to 1.2. When I first began driving the car, I noticed what I thought was an issue with finicky clutch engagement: coming to a stop following hard acceleration would often cause my car to stall (an embarassing thing). I just blamed it on being lazy and not fully engaging the clutch. However, even with my extra "caution" I have noticed that the car will still stall occasionally -- always under the same conditions of hard acceleration then coming to a stop. In the spring, I had my Dad take it to the Audi dealer. They took it for the whole day, drove it around, charged my Dad like $300 and told him nothing was wrong with it. (I assume they focused mainly on the stalling issue, ignoring the boost problem since they had no idea what the hell they were working with and probably just pulled up the specs for a 200 10v and assumed I was getting max boost). So my question is twofold: 1. What is most likely wrong with my car, and how do I confirm it? 2. What do I need to do to fix it and return my car to a normal op. specs. (If possible, I'd like to do it on my own, so anyone who can give me specific instructions, please do so. If not, tell me how to find a reputable place to get my car fixed). Sorry about the long and complex question. I'm grateful for all responses. Alpha1220@aol.com Chicago, IL From dak at rochester.rr.com Tue Jul 2 22:36:55 2002 From: dak at rochester.rr.com (DAK) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ac clutch relay References: Message-ID: <3D225537.3090403@rochester.rr.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Bernie, I thought the flyback diode was on the coil side of the relay? It shorts the pulse when the magnetic field on the coil collapses (as the relay is shut off). I know a cap on the output side acts as a filter to dampen the high frequency energy created as the conacts arc (just before closing, or just after opening). Granted, I'm no EE, but I was headed that way in the 80's when computer science got my attention. Surely, some type of small value cap couild handle the EMF generated when that clutch coil de-engergizes. Perhaps a diode on that as well? David PS. Kevin, am I off base here? Bernie Benz wrote: >Dave, > >Bad suggestion IMO. The inductive energy stored in the clutch coil can >never be handled by wimppy ceramic capacitor! Open up the AC relay and >replace the supression diode, which you will find is either open, causing >much radio noise upon deenergiding, or shorted, in which case the compressor >will not cycle, but run all the time. > >Bernie > > >>From: DAK >>Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 22:54:59 -0400 >>To: Vincenzo Basile >>Cc: 200q20v@audifans.com >>Subject: Re: ac clutch relay >> >>From what I remember about my electronics tinkering days... You can put >>a small value capacitor across the contacts on the relay to quite that >>spark. I think on the order or 10 micro Farad, ceramic capacitor. Easily >>found at Radio Shack or your favorite electronics surplus store. >>These capacitors are non-polar, so just connect one lead to one of the >>switch terminals, the other lead to the other switch terminal on the >>relay. You could get fancy and open the relay and solder it in place. >> >>David >> >>Vincenzo Basile wrote: >> >>>This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >>>-- >>>[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >>>Hi list >>>Just wondering has anyone had the problem of sqeaching in the radio when the >>>heats on,and linked it to the ac clutch relay?what exactly has to be changed >>>in that relay?I remember I could buy sometype of resister from radio shack >>>instead of getting a whole new relay, if anybody knows exactly what it is I >>>need I would appreciate the help .thanks >>>-- >>> >>>_______________________________________________ >>>200q20v mailing list >>>200q20v@audifans.com >>>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >>> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>200q20v mailing list >>200q20v@audifans.com >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >> > > -- From Chrisellenhem at aol.com Tue Jul 2 22:41:02 2002 From: Chrisellenhem at aol.com (Chrisellenhem@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: NAPA Parts - Revisited.. Message-ID: <111.1493d632.2a53b02e@aol.com> As a follow-up to my query of several weeks ago soliciting input/advice on use of generic NAPA parts, I did purchase the NAPA rear differential pinion/input shaft seal. Upon inspection it appeared rather cheesy to me and given the level of work required to do the first 'R' of the R&R, I opted to also purchase the dealer supplied part (@ ~$38.00 - local dealer screwed me I'm sure.. vs. $4.00 @ NAPA..). There was simply no comparison between the quality of two seals; the OEM unit had two lips (always better, eh?...) vs. the NAPA's one. And beyond that, the OEM seal just looked/felt more robust. Rear diff has been leak-free since re-assy - as expected; and now I have to go get my $4 back... Just thought I'd pass it along. Chris Hemberger Hebron, CT From morpheus0213 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 2 21:16:37 2002 From: morpheus0213 at yahoo.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Novice + Boost issue = ?No Hope? In-Reply-To: <15e.10191b14.2a5397ab@aol.com> Message-ID: <20020703031637.41969.qmail@web11001.mail.yahoo.com> well i'm sure everyone will agree with me that you have a 99.9% chance of needing a new bypass valve to fix that stalling problem.. as far as the boost problem it could be something as simple as a cracked hose.. what you might want to do is build urself a lil contraption.. a PVC pipe that fits the hose that connecto the the MAF (right before the air filter) cap this pvc pipe and put in a valve stem,, like from a tire or whatever.. get urself an air compressor or figure out a way to give urself about 15psi continuous air pressure.. listen for leaks.. wherever you hear it.. replace that hose.. lil tip those small lil hoses that go from ur manifold to ur bypass valve and the other two that come off of there most likely need to be replaced.. i jus did mine with some steel braided lines i special ordered from autozone (2$/ft).. not only do they look pretty but they're damn durable :) --- ALPHA1220@aol.com wrote: > Here is my situation, maybe some more experienced > people can help, since my > moderate level of knowledge concerning car mechanics > hasn't gotten me very > far. I have been driving a 1991 200 20v quattro for > approximately 9 months, > having taken it out of storage (My Dad drove it from > 1991-1995). For as long > as I have been driving the car, I have never gotten > maximum boost: 1.4 was as > > high as I was getting in the summer and fall of 01', > 1.3 in the winter and > spring, now down to 1.2. When I first began driving > the car, I noticed what I > > thought was an issue with finicky clutch engagement: > coming to a stop > following hard acceleration would often cause my car > to stall (an embarassing > > thing). I just blamed it on being lazy and not fully > engaging the clutch. > However, even with my extra "caution" I have noticed > that the car will still > stall occasionally -- always under the same > conditions of hard acceleration > then coming to a stop. In the spring, I had my Dad > take it to the Audi > dealer. They took it for the whole day, drove it > around, charged my Dad like > $300 and told him nothing was wrong with it. (I > assume they focused mainly on > > the stalling issue, ignoring the boost problem since > they had no idea what > the hell they were working with and probably just > pulled up the specs for a > 200 10v and assumed I was getting max boost). > > So my question is twofold: > > 1. What is most likely wrong with my car, and how do > I confirm it? > 2. What do I need to do to fix it and return my car > to a normal op. specs. > (If possible, I'd like to do it on my own, so anyone > who can give me specific > > instructions, please do so. If not, tell me how to > find a reputable place to > get my car fixed). > > Sorry about the long and complex question. I'm > grateful for all responses. > > Alpha1220@aol.com > Chicago, IL > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From morpheus0213 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 2 21:23:53 2002 From: morpheus0213 at yahoo.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: "Bucking" around In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20020703032353.37721.qmail@web11004.mail.yahoo.com> another good idea is to get urself some brass piping.. cut it into 1/4" pieces and cinch it with needlenose pliers.. i tried this with my new steelbraided vac lines and its a lovely fit :) --- Phil Rose wrote: > At 5:59 PM -0700 6/17/02, Neil Vonhof wrote: > > > >So the question I have is how do you guys deal with > this? Is there a tried > >and true way to get that hose fully on (and maybe > clamped) so that it stays > >put? I am using the stock vac. hose which I have > thoroughly inspected and > >found to be in good shape. I know about the idea of > replacing and re-routing > >the hose away from it's normal path - away from the > heat, but my hose is in > >good condition so I have yet to have the need to do > that. Is there hose > >around with a slightly larger inside diameter that > would more easily slide > >on and then use a clamp? > > below is a copy of my Sept 2000 post about just this > situation. It > might be what you need: > > Phil > > > >>How to clamp certain Audi small-diameter vacuum or > pressure hoses? The > >>factory often installs a crimped-on single-use > clamp, but after it's > >>removed we're faced with a problem of how to > resecure. In my experience, > >>such tiny sizes (for 0.25- 0.3 inch dia. hose) of > screw-drive hose clamp > >>aren't carried in many automotive supply outlets. > Also there can be a > >>problem of insufficient clearance for the bulky > screw-drive of an ordinary > >>hose clamp An example of this is the vac/boost > hose that controls the > >>throttle over-run shutoff valve (affectionately > known as turbo bypass). > >>This valve has a hose nipple that is recessed in > the valve body and doesn't > >>provide much (any?) room for a conventional > screw-drive clamp. > >> > >>However I recently came upon an item that may > serve well in some of these > >>situations: the "Easy Clamp". This type of clamp > is a familar looking > >>little band of spring-steel that is operated > (loosened) by using ordinary > >>pliers to squeeze a set of opposing tabs. When > you let go, the clamp > >>tightens by spring-action. The clamp size should > be selected so that it > >>slides on over the empty hose with some > resistance (or with a little > >>speading); then it will provide substantial > holding force after a fitting > >>(e.g., hose nipple) is inserted. Some layers of > tape might be used if the > >>clamp is slightly oversized. I've just used > several of these clamps to > >>secure the hoses to a small T-fitting that feeds > my boost gauge. > >> > >>I haven't had a chance to verify that this type of > clamp will actually fit > >>at the turbo bypass valve nipple, but I expect it > should work (gripping it > >>with needle-nose pliers). I've seen two sizes: > 1/4" and 3/8" (hose O.D.; > >>there may be a 5/16" available as well as larger > sizes.) I wouldn't > >>recommend these be used where holding power is > critical (oil, brake, > >>coolant) but they seems like a useful kind of > clamp for boost and vac > >>lines. I found mine at Lowe's--located in the > plumbing department's display > >>of brass pipe and tubing (compression) fittings. > The supplier is > >>Anderson-Barrows (p/n A-88 and A-190 for the 1/4" > and 3/8' size, > >>respectively.) I'm sure they're also listed in > many catalogs. > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From brett at cloud9.net Wed Jul 3 00:28:50 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Novice + Boost issue = ?No Hope? In-Reply-To: <15e.10191b14.2a5397ab@aol.com> References: <15e.10191b14.2a5397ab@aol.com> Message-ID: At 7:56 PM -0400 7/2/02, ALPHA1220@aol.com wrote: >Here is my situation, maybe some more experienced people can help, since my >moderate level of knowledge concerning car mechanics hasn't gotten me very >far. I have been driving a 1991 200 20v quattro for approximately 9 months, >having taken it out of storage (My Dad drove it from 1991-1995) Get the T-belt changed as soon as possible...the current belt is at the best AT the limit for age(timing belts have both age and mileage limitations; 7 years, 60k/miles.) At the worst, the belt is 10+ years old. >. For as long >as I have been driving the car, I have never gotten maximum boost: 1.4 was as >high as I was getting in the summer and fall of 01', 1.3 in the winter and >spring, now down to 1.2. When I first began driving the car, I noticed what I >thought was an issue with finicky clutch engagement: coming to a stop >following hard acceleration would often cause my car to stall (an embarassing >thing). This is caused by a tear in the membrane of the turbo bypass valve, which normally opens after the throttle snaps shut under boost(ie, when shifting or suddenly braking), routing air from the outlet of the turbo directly back into the inlet of the turbo, keeping it spinning(otherwise, the turbo slows dramatically.) > probably just pulled up the specs for a 200 10v and assumed I was >getting max boost). Quite possible. >So my question is twofold: > >1. What is most likely wrong with my car, and how do I confirm it? The turbo bypass valve is the most likely candidate. >2. What do I need to do to fix it and return my car to a normal op. specs. >(If possible, I'd like to do it on my own, so anyone who can give me specific >instructions, please do so. Replacing the valve is relatively easy; it is -really- easy with a socket driver handle, flex extension, and a 6mm(at least on my car) socket; once you use this on the clamps on the car, you'll never try a screwdriver again...it makes undoing clamps a breeze if you have it. The valve is directly in front of the turbo; plastic, round, two large ports and one small vacuum line connection. Undo both hose clamps, pull the valve off(don't be afraid to wiggle/pull, that rubber is very strong.) Replace the control line for it as well; this line runs under the large intake pipe that comes up from the intercooler; notice the hot exhaust right underneath there? Guess what that does to the rubber vacuum line :-) Usually it becomes so brittle, you can break off small pieces of the hose like hard candy. The most permanent solution is one of the following: -reroute the line along the edge of the engine compartment -use a piece of copper line(such as what one would use to hook up a fridge's icemaker) for the length of the run that is above the exhaust. Home Depot and most other hardware stores sell small "wide band" spring clamps that are just a clamp made out of spring metal that you open up by squeezing the ends with a pair of pliers...as you'll see, the connection is recessed and a screw-type clamp will not fit. Hook up the vacuum line, put the valve back in, tighten clamps...done! That will solve the stalling problem. Low boost probably is a separate issue; if the low boost is NOT accompanied by stumbling/surging*...while you're down in that area, see the little solenoid valve? Has three connections on the bottom. If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance across the two terminals of the valve. It should be 28-30 Ohms; if it is more like 300, you need a new wastegate frequency valve(WGFV for short) If the valve is within specifications, then does the air conditioning run? If not, unplug the temperature sensor underneath the intake manifold; you're looking for the larger of the two hanging down from a metal pipe(not the one with two separate connectors...one big boot.) Test drive the car. Boost up? Then your Multifunction Temperature Sender(MFTS for short) is shot; these are also a common failure item, sending a false overheat signal to the climate control(shutting off AC) and the engine control unit(which restricts boost to keep the engine as cool as possible.) If it turns out to be none of the above, then my next suggestion is either to take it to a mechanic who knows 200q20v's(see below) or if you still want to pursue it on your own, pull the fault codes from the engine control unit; this is outlined very nicely at sjmautotechnik.com(you will need to construct a test lamp using an LED; Scott M's site explains all this.) *if the car stumbles/surges/bucks under boost, you've got a split hose or other major vacuum leak. One very good canidate is the "michellin man" hose that goes from the intercooler to the metal intake pipe; remove it, clean it up with dish soap or simple green etc...and inspect under good light for any tears or splits. > If not, tell me how to find a reputable place to get my car fixed). Can't help you in this department...but I'm sure we have a lister in your area. If you don't get any answers, try reposting just this question only with the subject line "mechanic needed in ____ area". Feel free to post a followup from what you find from suggestions above(and any others you get of course!) Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From sbhack at attglobal.net Wed Jul 3 00:35:04 2002 From: sbhack at attglobal.net (Steve Hackett) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: (no subject) Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020702233453.02819eb0@mail.ntplx.net> At 03:27 PM 7/1/2002 -0600, you wrote: >Strange new problem on the Audi now that the whether is hot. > >There is excessive pressure in the fuel tank. The valve for the carbon >canister is working fine. Not that it could handle this volume though. >I thought perhaps the pump was staying on after the car shuts off and >the entire tank was being heated as it flows through the rail. But, as >yet, I have not found that to be the case. This would however account >for the volume of gas I'm talking about: serious fume problem. Any >btdt's? >Pete I had strong fuel odor after shut down at RR wheel well. Turned out to be corrosion around the banjo bolt was just enough to weep fuel out but not enough to overflow the tank cap where the banjo bolt is. This was also the cause for long hot crank times - would bleed pressure out of the line (verified by manually activating the fuel pump before start, could be heard as well). Replaced cap/sender fixture, fuel pump done at same time (had 86k on it) - both problems solved. HTH, SH From Gabo at maffia.hu Wed Jul 3 09:32:42 2002 From: Gabo at maffia.hu (=?iso-8859-2?Q?Endr=F5di_G=E1bor?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Bucking problems In-Reply-To: <20020703032353.37721.qmail@web11004.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20020703032353.37721.qmail@web11004.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi It looks like y fuel pressure regulator has to be changed. I?have to waiting for my part, and then I hope the car gonna run well again. Gabo From smuckycat at hotmail.com Wed Jul 3 10:04:47 2002 From: smuckycat at hotmail.com (Joshua C) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: bilstiens Message-ID: Dan, Count me in on the Bilstien group buy. Just let me know what info you need, I have paypal. Let me know the $ and an acct number and I'll pony up the cash. Joshua Cummings _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From quattro at lilligdesign.com Wed Jul 3 09:49:41 2002 From: quattro at lilligdesign.com (Don Lillig) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 200 20v traveling through Kansas Message-ID: <200207030849.AA767033486@lilligdesign.com> Journeying back from a divisional solo in Salina Kansas in by 72 911 I had a nice surprise outside of Lawrence on I-70. It was definitely a 200, yep those are V8 taillights. Upon closer inspection, it was apparent it was a 200 20V. Kind of a gray-silver with larger aftermarket wheels. The plates were from Oregon. In front of it was a blue ur-quattro from Washington State. Obviously, they were traveling together. We acknowledged each other and traveled together until I headed south once we reached KC. It is always a nice surprise to happen upon Audi enthusiasts on the interstate. Extra special to see a 200 20V with V8 tail lights like mine! Don Lillig Kansas City 91 200tq20v 89 200t 72 911T _______________________________________________________________ _ Sent via the WebMail system at lilligdesign.com From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Wed Jul 3 08:28:26 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: ac clutch relay In-Reply-To: <3D225537.3090403@rochester.rr.com> Message-ID: > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The supression diode is across the relay contacts. It is one of the two black diodes located on the base of the relay, inside. It should be inserted such as to block the 12V applied to the clutch. If in backward, voltage will bypass the contacts and the clutch will run all the time. To suppress the induced voltage spike of the collapsing magnetic field the suppression device must be capable of handling the full coil current at the acceptable peak spike voltage. Your "small cap" may thus reduce the spike from 2KV to 1KV, but not good enough! A simple diode clamps the spike at its forward voltage drop, 1.2V for silicon. Any silicon diode rated at least 50V and 5A will do. Twofer $.50 at RS. Bernie From: DAK Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 21:36:55 -0400 To: Bernie Benz , 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Re: ac clutch relay Bernie, I thought the flyback diode was on the coil side of the relay? It shorts the pulse when the magnetic field on the coil collapses (as the relay is shut off). I know a cap on the output side acts as a filter to dampen the high frequency energy created as the conacts arc (just before closing, or just after opening). Granted, I'm no EE, but I was headed that way in the 80's when computer science got my attention. Surely, some type of small value cap couild handle the EMF generated when that clutch coil de-engergizes. Perhaps a diode on that as well? David PS. Kevin, am I off base here? Bernie Benz wrote: Dave, Bad suggestion IMO. The inductive energy stored in the clutch coil can never be handled by wimppy ceramic capacitor! Open up the AC relay and replace the supression diode, which you will find is either open, causing much radio noise upon deenergiding, or shorted, in which case the compressor will not cycle, but run all the time. Bernie From: DAK Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2002 22:54:59 -0400 To: Vincenzo Basile Cc: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Re: ac clutch relay From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 3 11:54:56 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 200 20v traveling through Kansas In-Reply-To: <200207030849.AA767033486@lilligdesign.com> Message-ID: <001601c222a1$98d85a70$0d42fea9@newpc> Sounds like Jeremy Williams' car, unless he's sold it. I think he's at Matrix Engineering or something like that, in Portland, Oregon. Taka -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Don Lillig Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 9:50 AM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: 200 20v traveling through Kansas Journeying back from a divisional solo in Salina Kansas in by 72 911 I had a nice surprise outside of Lawrence on I-70. It was definitely a 200, yep those are V8 taillights. Upon closer inspection, it was apparent it was a 200 20V. Kind of a gray-silver with larger aftermarket wheels. The plates were from Oregon. In front of it was a blue ur-quattro from Washington State. Obviously, they were traveling together. We acknowledged each other and traveled together until I headed south once we reached KC. It is always a nice surprise to happen upon Audi enthusiasts on the interstate. Extra special to see a 200 20V with V8 tail lights like mine! Don Lillig Kansas City 91 200tq20v 89 200t 72 911T _______________________________________________________________ _ Sent via the WebMail system at lilligdesign.com _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From smuckycat at hotmail.com Wed Jul 3 12:31:58 2002 From: smuckycat at hotmail.com (Joshua C) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Paint code on avant Message-ID: Listers, Does anyone know where I can find the paint code on the 200 20v avant? Is it on the sticker in the jack compartment? If so what number would it be? (it's silver) thanks-Josh _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From Djdawson2 at aol.com Wed Jul 3 12:47:37 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 200 20v traveling through Kansas Message-ID: <8.28adb567.2a547699@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Actually, that was Jeff (forgot his last name) from Georgia and his wife. They made the trek west to buy those two cars. He and his wife met up with a few of us Denver folks for dinner and hours of chit chat, they spent the night and continued on. We only saw the urq... very pretty... nice folks. Dave From Chewy4000 at aol.com Wed Jul 3 14:16:09 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Paint code on avant Message-ID: <3F0CADE0.245B2581.022A5BF8@aol.com> In a message dated Wed, 3 Jul 2002 10:31:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, smuckycat@hotmail.com writes: > > > Listers, > Does anyone know where I can find the paint code on the 200 20v avant? Is > it on the sticker in the jack compartment? If so what number would it be? > (it's silver) > thanks-Josh > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your > photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v The paint code should be under the plastic cover right behind the lights that are in the trunk lid. The sticker has all the info. Chewy From pwpetersen at earthlink.net Wed Jul 3 12:15:47 2002 From: pwpetersen at earthlink.net (Peter Petersen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Tank Vapor Pressure Message-ID: <000001c222b5$46aa3520$c7d1ea43@AFSCAL.afsglobal.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hi Guys: I'm going to try this one again because I don't think I described the problem well enough last time and it's a pretty scary problem. The problem I'm having is with excessive pressure in the gas tank. On a hot day, after I have been driving for a couple of hours, if I loosen the gas cap, fumes rush out and continue to do so for several minutes. It's almost as if the gasoline has been heated to an excessive temp and the vapor pressure at this temperature is significant. If I were to remove the cap immediately, there would be a fume jet shooting out of the tank in quite an explosive fashion. One static spark and were talking serious BBQ Also, the pressure does not diminish rapidly, almost like vapor is being replaced by additional fuel boil off. Again, pretty scary. I recently had the fuel pump replaced and the work is somewhat suspect. I'll take a look at the plumbing tonight. Is there any chance the mechanic could of screwed something up with the plumbing and the fuel pump is pressurizing the tank by air-rating the fuel? (the car does run well) Another possibility: the fuel pump is staying on after engine shut down. The fuel, passing thru the rail is becoming a heat soak for the cooling engine and higher temp in the tank = higher vapor pressure. I'm currently checking to see if this is happening, but I haven't caught it yet. Any other suggestions greatly appreciated. I'd hate to end up in the papers for starting the next Colorado wildfire with my Audi, or worse yet, rolling in the bushes trying to put myself out... Pete -- From dbpulvino at hotmail.com Wed Jul 3 11:54:29 2002 From: dbpulvino at hotmail.com (Derek Pulvino) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 200 20v traveling through Kansas (more about Urq) Message-ID: I think I know the guy who used to own the URq; he came and checked out my 200 at one point when it was going to the highest bidder. I remember he had a fresh paint job on the car, and it looked real clean. Then he made the mistake of telling me he wanted to take the engine out of the 200 and put it in his UrQ! The nerve! No sale at that point, oh and the offer was a bit off the mark. Derek P Message: 3 From: Djdawson2@aol.com Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 11:47:37 EDT Subject: Re: 200 20v traveling through Kansas To: quattro@lilligdesign.com, 200q20v@audifans.com -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Actually, that was Jeff (forgot his last name) from Georgia and his wife. They made the trek west to buy those two cars. He and his wife met up with a few of us Denver folks for dinner and hours of chit chat, they spent the night and continued on. We only saw the urq... very pretty... nice folks. Dave _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From peschulz at cisco.com Wed Jul 3 15:28:17 2002 From: peschulz at cisco.com (Peter Schulz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Tank Vapor Pressure In-Reply-To: <000001c222b5$46aa3520$c7d1ea43@AFSCAL.afsglobal.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020703142703.03722f00@millcity.cisco.com> Peter: I recall that Phil Payne had a similar issue with his 1990 200 Avant - I recommend searching www.audifans.com... -Peter At 11:15 AM 7/3/2002 -0600, you wrote: >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >Hi Guys: > > > >I'm going to try this one again because I don't think I described the >problem well enough last time and it's a pretty scary problem. > > > >The problem I'm having is with excessive pressure in the gas tank. On a >hot day, after I have been driving for a couple of hours, if I loosen >the gas cap, fumes rush out and continue to do so for several minutes. >It's almost as if the gasoline has been heated to an excessive temp and >the vapor pressure at this temperature is significant. If I were to >remove the cap immediately, there would be a fume jet shooting out of >the tank in quite an explosive fashion. One static spark and were >talking serious BBQ Peter C. Schulz peschulz@cisco.com Quality Systems Engineer/SSE http://www.cisco.com Customer Contact Business Unit (CCBU) Direct: 978.497.7772 Cisco Systems, Inc. Fax: 978.497.1705 900 Chelmsford Street Pager: 800.365.4578 Lowell, MA 01851 USA From smuckycat at hotmail.com Wed Jul 3 17:51:26 2002 From: smuckycat at hotmail.com (Joshua C) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Paint code on avant Message-ID: Thanks Chewy, I found the paint code and ordered some touchup. I guess the car was built in 1990 (although it's a model year 1991 20v) because I had to look up 1990 models to find the paint code through the vendor I used. (incase anyone else has to do it) thanks-Josh http://www.paintscratch.com is who I used. _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Thu Jul 4 00:00:01 2002 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: RS2 exhaust manifold Message-ID: I finally got the RS2 manifold. But of course, I didn't know that the RS2 uses shorter studs than the 200q20v/Ur-S4 (27 mm and 35 mm), so I installed a set of 35 mm. I had to cut them a bit, they fit now, but the space under the RS2 manifold is *really* cramped.. I'm almost not capable of fitting the nuts onto the studs.. I really hate to work where I can't see and nothing seems to fit.. :-) -- E. Spangen (uten penger) '90 Audi 200TQ 20v (uten skilter) '96 DBS Kilimanjaro (uten problemer) From Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com Wed Jul 3 18:55:58 2002 From: Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com (Vincenzo Basile) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 2cnd boilover Message-ID: <001a01c222dc$6c0aecc0$5d26c143@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] hello list My fans are not kicking on by themselves,so until I found the problem I was= just turning on my heat when I was idle,so I was testing to see if they wo= uld come on and the temp gauge was before the 2 little dots and boom boil o= ver no fan came on I immediately shut off the car and the after run fan cam= e on right away.What makes that fan go on?should I change the blue 3 pron= g resisister,the thermostat,or the sensor in the radiater ,I have no idea = how to figure out wich one to change?I've asked this question before and go= t no response,while my knowledge of engines is limited I was hoping someone= might be able to help me out.( ps) Did I do any damage to my engine, cause= both times this happend I cought it right away? -- From ekellock at juno.com Wed Jul 3 18:51:59 2002 From: ekellock at juno.com (Edward J Kellock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 200 20v traveling through Kansas Message-ID: <20020703.175159.-1461683.0.ekellock@juno.com> Sounds very much like Jeremy. If so, that car is/was for sale. Ed Colorado Springs On Wed, 3 Jul 2002 08:49:41 -0500 "Don Lillig" writes: > Journeying back from a divisional solo in Salina Kansas in by > 72 911 I had a nice surprise outside of Lawrence on I-70. It > was definitely a 200, yep those are V8 taillights. Upon closer > inspection, it was apparent it was a 200 20V. Kind of a > gray-silver with larger aftermarket wheels. The plates were > from Oregon. In front of it was a blue ur-quattro from > Washington State. Obviously, they were traveling together. We > acknowledged each other and traveled together until I headed > south once we reached KC. > It is always a nice surprise to happen upon Audi enthusiasts on > the interstate. Extra special to see a 200 20V with V8 tail > lights like mine! > > > Don Lillig > Kansas City > 91 200tq20v > 89 200t > 72 911T > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > _ > Sent via the WebMail system at lilligdesign.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. From wfo16v at earthlink.net Wed Jul 3 18:37:28 2002 From: wfo16v at earthlink.net (TT) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 200 20v traveling through Kansas References: <20020703.175159.-1461683.0.ekellock@juno.com> Message-ID: <00c501c222f2$fe5357a0$69a9fa43@default> Yes, Jeremy just sold it. Great choice, who ever purchased that beauty! Travis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Edward J Kellock" To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 4:51 PM Subject: Re: 200 20v traveling through Kansas > Sounds very much like Jeremy. If so, that car is/was for sale. > > Ed > Colorado Springs > > On Wed, 3 Jul 2002 08:49:41 -0500 "Don Lillig" > writes: > > Journeying back from a divisional solo in Salina Kansas in by > > 72 911 I had a nice surprise outside of Lawrence on I-70. It > > was definitely a 200, yep those are V8 taillights. Upon closer > > inspection, it was apparent it was a 200 20V. Kind of a > > gray-silver with larger aftermarket wheels. The plates were > > from Oregon. In front of it was a blue ur-quattro from > > Washington State. Obviously, they were traveling together. We > > acknowledged each other and traveled together until I headed > > south once we reached KC. > > It is always a nice surprise to happen upon Audi enthusiasts on > > the interstate. Extra special to see a 200 20V with V8 tail > > lights like mine! > > > > > > Don Lillig > > Kansas City > > 91 200tq20v > > 89 200t > > 72 911T > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > _ > > Sent via the WebMail system at lilligdesign.com > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > 200q20v mailing list > > 200q20v@audifans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From pjrose at frontiernet.net Wed Jul 3 22:56:20 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Paint code on avant In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 4:51 PM -0400 7/3/02, Joshua C wrote: >Thanks Chewy, >I found the paint code and ordered some touchup. I guess the car was built >in 1990 (although it's a model year 1991 20v) Why should that come as any surprise? In any case, the build date (month/year) is quite prominently displayed on a plate affixed to the driver-side door pillar. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From pjrose at frontiernet.net Wed Jul 3 23:16:23 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: 2cnd boilover In-Reply-To: <001a01c222dc$6c0aecc0$5d26c143@oemcomputer> References: <001a01c222dc$6c0aecc0$5d26c143@oemcomputer> Message-ID: At 5:55 PM -0400 7/3/02, Vincenzo Basile wrote: >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >hello list >My fans are not kicking on by themselves,so until I found the >problem I was just turning on my heat when I was idle,so I was >testing to see if they would come on and the temp gauge was before >the 2 little dots and boom boil over no fan came on I immediately >shut off the car and the after run fan came on right away.What makes >that fan go on?should I change the blue 3 prong resisister,the >thermostat,or the sensor in the radiater ,I have no idea how to >figure out wich one to change?I've asked this question before and >got no response,while my knowledge of engines is limited I was >hoping someone might be able to help me out.( ps) Did I do any >damage to my engine, cause both times this happend I cought it right >away? >-- If the afterrun fan came on, this rules out the simplest situation, which is the fan's fusible link. It's obviously OK. My bet would be that there's a problem involving the thermal sensor in the radiator. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From ekellock at juno.com Wed Jul 3 22:08:36 2002 From: ekellock at juno.com (Edward J Kellock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Paint code on avant Message-ID: <20020703.211023.-619745.0.ekellock@juno.com> So what color did it turn out to be? My '91 Avant was a 1990 build date but had a plain old ordinary 1991 color. ;-) Right Dave? Ed On Wed, 3 Jul 2002 21:56:20 -0400 Phil Rose writes: > At 4:51 PM -0400 7/3/02, Joshua C wrote: > >Thanks Chewy, > >I found the paint code and ordered some touchup. I guess the car > was built > >in 1990 (although it's a model year 1991 20v) > > Why should that come as any surprise? In any case, the build date > (month/year) is quite prominently displayed on a plate affixed to > the > driver-side door pillar. > > Phil > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. From quattro at lilligdesign.com Thu Jul 4 11:32:31 2002 From: quattro at lilligdesign.com (Don Lillig) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: A8 wheels Message-ID: <200207041032.AA919011512@lilligdesign.com> Hey gang, happy fourth This question has probably been asked a million times but does anyone know if A8 wheels fit on cars with ufos, I really dig the way they look on 200s. perhaps spacers? Don Lillig Kansas City 91 200tq20v 89 200t 72 911T ______________________________________________ __________________ Sent via the WebMail system at lilligdesign.com From wolff at turboquattro.com Thu Jul 4 09:54:44 2002 From: wolff at turboquattro.com (wolff@turboquattro.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: A8 wheels References: <200207041032.AA919011512@lilligdesign.com> Message-ID: <001b01c22373$1dec1ea0$6401a8c0@lexx> A8 Speedlines in 16x7 ET 37 need a 5mm spacer to clear the ufo's. BTDT. If you use a thicker spacer you will definitely need longer lug bolts or to convert to studs. HTH, Wolff "Nobody can forget the sound." - Michele Mouton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Lillig" To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 8:32 AM Subject: A8 wheels > Hey gang, happy fourth > > This question has probably been asked a million times but > does anyone know if A8 wheels fit on cars with ufos, I really > dig the way they look on 200s. perhaps spacers? > > Don Lillig > Kansas City > 91 200tq20v > 89 200t > 72 911T > > > > > ______________________________________________ > __________________ > Sent via the WebMail system at lilligdesign.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From jtm305 at bellsouth.net Thu Jul 4 13:02:28 2002 From: jtm305 at bellsouth.net (Jeffrey Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:16 2003 Subject: Cruise control washer? part number Message-ID: <000801c22374$32b9c890$6501a8c0@jtmhp> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Cruise just quit working and when trying to activate the throttle would mys= teriously stick. Upon inspection the washer thingy? that fits into the bra= cket had broken, thereby inabling teh cruise. Wjile trying to set it would= go throught eh bracket and hang on simething not letting the throttle spri= ng return to idle. Anyone know where to get the part number? My Bentley h= as not arrived yet. Thanks Jeff -- From malth at umich.edu Thu Jul 4 15:01:48 2002 From: malth at umich.edu (Chris Covington) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: '91 200q20v for sale (sniff) Message-ID: All, I've made a very difficult decision to part with my 200q20v. Now that I live and work in NYC, it serves no other purpose than to be my once a month (or fewer) weekend joy ride upstate, while I still pay insurance, upkeep, and etc. on it. I don't want it to wither away from lack of use, and I would like for it to be in the hands of a fellow Audi enthusiast. Basically, it's a stock '91 200q20v with Pearl exterior, black interior, 133K, euro lights, Intended Acceleration Stage 3, v8 tail lights and G60s (converted 15K miles ago). It also has 16x8 BBS RF forged rims with 225/50ZR16 tires. Oh, and it has my JVC CD head unit. It needs absolutely nothing, everything works including A/C, all window regs, switches, seat motors, etc. It uses no oil and has been strictly fed M1 with Mahle/Mann filters. It boosts to 1.8 bar. The suspension was also redone (stock parts) with the G60 conversion so it has new Boge Turbo Gas front and rear, along with the misc. bushings, bearings, etc. Pictures are at http://www.umich.edu/~malth/200 (http://www.umich.edu/~malth/200/hires for high resolution pictures) and they should speak for its condition. The interior and the exterior are excellent. It's never been wrecked, etc. The location is Woodstock, NY (approximately 2 hours north of NYC). My asking price is $9500, and if I don't get a reasonable offer I'll make it a garage queen. Feel free to email me for the VIN to run a Carfax on it. Chris From bimmer_dude at hotmail.com Thu Jul 4 20:43:57 2002 From: bimmer_dude at hotmail.com (Jobe Tichy) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Cruise control washer? part number Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Try the archives for this exact discussion last month. I believe it was under the subject heading "I have two things." I had the same thing happened and fashioned a nylon grommet from Home Depot--don't really have a part number for that. But, someone did respond with the Cruise Control Grommet PN for the connecting rod. JOBE '91 200tq 20v '84 BMW 318i (modified) >From: "Jeffrey Myers" >To: <200q20v@audifans.com> >Subject: Cruise control washer? part number >Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 12:02:28 -0400 > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >Cruise just quit working and when trying to activate the throttle would mysteriously stick. Upon inspection the washer thingy? that fits into the bracket had broken, thereby inabling teh cruise. Wjile trying to set it would go throught eh bracket and hang on simething not letting the throttle spring return to idle. Anyone know where to get the part number? My Bentley has not arrived yet. > >Thanks > >Jeff > >-- > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 From Chewy4000 at aol.com Fri Jul 5 09:57:33 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Overheating n drilling the thermostat Message-ID: <61A6662A.0B991903.022A5BF8@aol.com> Two days ago the temp whent between the two dots, so I sshut down the engine and looks around. The 2yr old fuse ling melted big time, I had a spare, and actually found it. My temp still stays, on these 100+deg days, right before the fist dot. I have a new rad. new aux pump new hoses all new fluid, what else can it be. My thermostat is maybe 3 yrs old, could that be the problem. On normal days like today 80-90 the temp might be on 12 oclock or not much more but on 90+deg days that thing goes up like crazy. I got to figure out what would help this, any info would help. Also wht do you guys think of drilling a hole or 2 on the thermolstat. Thnx in advance Chewy From pjrose at frontiernet.net Fri Jul 5 10:43:21 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Overheating n drilling the thermostat In-Reply-To: <61A6662A.0B991903.022A5BF8@aol.com> References: <61A6662A.0B991903.022A5BF8@aol.com> Message-ID: At 8:57 AM -0400 7/5/02, Chewy4000@aol.com wrote: >Two days ago the temp whent between the two dots, so I sshut down >the engine and looks around. >The 2yr old fuse ling melted big time, I had a spare, and actually found it. >My temp still stays, on these 100+deg days, right before the fist dot. >I have a new rad. new aux pump new hoses all new fluid, what else can it be. Considering that the fan's fuse melted, I'd consider a possible problem with your fan (electrical or mechanical). Has the fan been replaced recently? Is the fan blade able to rotate freely? I guess the fuse sometimes can fail from age-related factors, but your fuse seems too new for that. >My thermostat is maybe 3 yrs old, could that be the problem. Could cause overheating, but why the fuse meltdown? Does the fan always come on when the temp gauge reaches 12 o'clock (or slightly higher)? If not, your problem could be a defective thermal sensor in the radiator. >On normal days like today 80-90 the temp might be on 12 oclock or >not much more but on 90+deg days that thing goes up like crazy. I assume you're referring to the temp gauge reading while at idle, not normal driving temps???? Otherwise that temp range would seem too hot, in which case I'd suspect it's thermostat, thermal sensor, or water-pump related. Was the water pump replaced recently? If the water pump has seized, you might see an indication of that by pulling away the T-belt cover and checking whether or not the T-belt has a very glazed appearance. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Fri Jul 5 07:56:32 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Overheating n drilling the thermostat In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Phil, The water pump is driven from the cog side of the belt. > From: Phil Rose > Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 09:43:21 -0400 > To: Chewy4000@aol.com > Cc: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: Re: Overheating n drilling the thermostat > > At 8:57 AM -0400 7/5/02, Chewy4000@aol.com wrote: >> Two days ago the temp whent between the two dots, so I sshut down >> the engine and looks around. >> The 2yr old fuse ling melted big time, I had a spare, and actually found it. >> My temp still stays, on these 100+deg days, right before the fist dot. >> I have a new rad. new aux pump new hoses all new fluid, what else can it be. > > Considering that the fan's fuse melted, I'd consider a possible > problem with your fan (electrical or mechanical). Has the fan been > replaced recently? Is the fan blade able to rotate freely? I guess > the fuse sometimes can fail from age-related factors, but your fuse > seems too new for that. > >> My thermostat is maybe 3 yrs old, could that be the problem. > > Could cause overheating, but why the fuse meltdown? Does the fan > always come on when the temp gauge reaches 12 o'clock (or slightly > higher)? If not, your problem could be a defective thermal sensor in > the radiator. > > >> On normal days like today 80-90 the temp might be on 12 oclock or >> not much more but on 90+deg days that thing goes up like crazy. > > I assume you're referring to the temp gauge reading while at idle, > not normal driving temps???? Otherwise that temp range would seem too > hot, in which case I'd suspect it's thermostat, thermal sensor, or > water-pump related. Was the water pump replaced recently? If the > water pump has seized, you might see an indication of that by > pulling away the T-belt cover and checking whether or not the T-belt > has a very glazed appearance. > > Phil > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From pjrose at frontiernet.net Fri Jul 5 11:04:24 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Overheating n drilling the thermostat In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 6:56 AM -0700 7/5/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >Phil, > >The water pump is driven from the cog side of the belt. Whoops, I had a brain seizure! I had the idler bearing in mind. I guess there would be a lot more "obvious" symptoms when a water pump becomes seized. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From ekellock at juno.com Fri Jul 5 12:20:23 2002 From: ekellock at juno.com (Edward J Kellock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Overheating n drilling the thermostat Message-ID: <20020705.112027.-563103.0.ekellock@juno.com> I'm having the same issue with my 89 200q. I've replaced the Sierra coolant with Pentosin coolant on the advice of a friend who has found that the Pentosin runs much cooler than others. I have found this to be true as well, until the outside temp is way up, 90+. Once the car gets up to the bold mark at about 12:30, 1o'clock position, it doesn't seem to want to cool down. I replaced the thermostat and noticed another bit of an improvement. The car comes up to normal temp more slowly now, but can still climb beyond that and not seem to want to return. It has never gone much past the higher bold mark on the gauge, but it doesn't seem to want to come back down either. My radiator (as well as the previous thermostat) is a little over 60k and 5 years old. Could I need a new radiator this soon? Ed Colorado Springs P.S The water pump is slightly newer than the rad. My cooling fan comes on at the appropriate times. I have put in the more efficient fan from the 200q20v as well. It will be timing belt time soon, so I'd likely do the water pump also. Do they have that short of a useful life? On Fri, 05 Jul 2002 08:57:33 -0400 Chewy4000@aol.com writes: > Two days ago the temp whent between the two dots, so I sshut down the > engine and looks around. > The 2yr old fuse ling melted big time, I had a spare, and actually > found it. > My temp still stays, on these 100+deg days, right before the fist > dot. > I have a new rad. new aux pump new hoses all new fluid, what else > can it be. > My thermostat is maybe 3 yrs old, could that be the problem. > On normal days like today 80-90 the temp might be on 12 oclock or > not much more but on 90+deg days that thing goes up like crazy. > > I got to figure out what would help this, any info would help. > Also wht do you guys think of drilling a hole or 2 on the > thermolstat. > > > Thnx in advance > Chewy > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. From brett at cloud9.net Fri Jul 5 16:30:21 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Overheating n drilling the thermostat In-Reply-To: <20020705.112027.-563103.0.ekellock@juno.com> References: <20020705.112027.-563103.0.ekellock@juno.com> Message-ID: At 11:20 AM -0600 7/5/02, Edward J Kellock wrote: >I'm having the same issue with my 89 200q. I've replaced the Sierra >coolant with Pentosin coolant on the advice of a friend who has found >that the Pentosin runs much cooler than others. I have found this to be >true as well, until the outside temp is way up, 90+. Once the car gets >up to the bold mark at about 12:30, 1o'clock position, it doesn't seem >to want to cool down. I replaced the thermostat and noticed another >bit of an improvement. The car comes up to normal temp more slowly >now, but can still climb beyond that and not seem to want to return. >It has never gone much past the higher bold mark on the gauge, but >it doesn't seem to want to come back down either. My radiator (as >well as the previous thermostat) is a little over 60k and 5 years old. >Could I need a new radiator this soon? If you are concerned, I'd have a radiator shop remove and service both radiators, and clean out the A/C condenser while they're at it. Take the opportunity to insert a copper sleeve inside both of the larger fittings to strengthen the necks so they don't break; rough up the mating surfaces to give the epoxy something to grab on to. As for drilling holes, there should already be a small hole in the stock thermostat from what I'm told; the purpose is to allow some coolant to circulate to avoid sudden changes in temperature when the t-stat does open etc. I wouldn't modify it further(just a guess, but that hole might be sized "just right" for something. Then again, this is Audi :-) B -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Fri Jul 5 22:34:39 2002 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Hard start/long cranking time Message-ID: When my 200 is warm, it needs about 8-10 seconds to start. When it is cold or hot, it starts just fine. Needs extra cranking time only when warm, like when it has been sitting for 30 minutes to 2 hours in summer temperature. What can this be? I've been thinking about residual fuel pressure bleeding down, but it can't take several seconds for the fuel pump to build pressure again? If it was fuel pressure, it would have been hard to start when cold too, right? I've recently replaced all old hoses (the small vacuum hoses and the CCV hose), the CCV hose was _really_ bad, felt just like a sponge, it disintegrated in my hands.. BTW, the PO chipped the car, now the boost pressure displayed in the display is 0.8 with the ignition on and the engine not running, maybe the ECU pressure sensor is changed too, if I multiply with 1.25, I get 1.0 which should be correct. I can get the display to show 1.8, that would be 2.25 absolute pressure, that would be about correct for a chipped car? -- E. Spangen (uten penger) '90 Audi 200TQ 20v (uten skilter) '96 DBS Kilimanjaro (uten problemer) From malth at umich.edu Fri Jul 5 18:20:17 2002 From: malth at umich.edu (Chris Covington) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Hard start/long cranking time In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I had a similar problem and it was my injectors. Cov From Dale at TheMcCormacks.org Fri Jul 5 19:11:53 2002 From: Dale at TheMcCormacks.org (Dale McCormack) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Available soon in our neighborhoods..."Lord(s) of the Rings" Message-ID: <3D2627B9.5060108@TheMcCormacks.org> The RS4: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840161975 The RS6: http://www.s-cars.org/rs6/Articles/RS6-AR001/rs6-ar001.html From maximum at weetamoo.com Fri Jul 5 19:26:03 2002 From: maximum at weetamoo.com (maximum@weetamoo.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Available soon in our neighborhoods..."Lord(s) of the Rings" Message-ID: <20020705182604.18168.h002.c001.wm@mail.weetamoo.com.criticalpath.net> Rumor has it that there are a couple on their way to New Hampshire from yet another source. Speed costs money... How fast do you want to go? Royal aka 20RoT On Fri, 05 July 2002, Dale McCormack wrote > > The RS4: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1840161975 > > > The RS6: > http://www.s-cars.org/rs6/Articles/RS6-AR001/rs6-ar001.html > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From dans at audifans.com Sat Jul 6 02:24:51 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed Message-ID: <3D267F23.3FFEE31A@audifans.com> An excerpt of an email I sent to someone regarding the chipped ECU I just installed. Note that only last week I was outaccelerated from a standing start by a freaking Toyota Avalon. This is addictive. I fear for my license... >It's past 1am and I just got home, but couldn't resist putting in the ecu and going for a ride. First impressions, much faster. Got on it on the main road, caught up to a camaro (older mid 70s). Light turns red, I'm laughing, look over, kids are laughing at me. Light goes green, their tires are spinning and smoking, I'm just behind in first gear, second I pass them, third they are well behind. Hahaha. From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Sat Jul 6 03:41:15 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] What chip do you have? ----Original Message Follows---- From: Dan Simoes To: 200q20v <200q20v@audifans.com> Subject: yep, my car is fixed Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2002 01:24:51 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from [64.205.178.107] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBEEFCAC900BE4004319840CDB26BBED90; Fri, 05 Jul 2002 22:27:38 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 17181373; Sat, 6 Jul 2002 01:30:19 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 0D9A0338; Sat, 6 Jul 2002 01:30:17 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 595ED35C; Sat, 6 Jul 2002 01:28:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: from front2.mail.megapathdsl.net (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id DF8E6338for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Sat, 6 Jul 2002 01:28:44 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [64.32.228.152] (HELO audifans.com) by front2.mail.megapathdsl.net (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.5.8) with ESMTP id 36863149 for 200q20v@audifans.com; Fri, 05 Jul 2002 22:25:56 -0700 From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Sat Jul 6 03:48:05 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: What are the differences between stage III and III+ IA chips? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] What exactly is the difference between stage 3 and 3+ Intended Acceleration chips? Is it only the 250kpa transducer? So if the computer's got the 250kpa transducer that makes it the 3+? And exactly how much do they each cost? I was trying to get this info from Ned Richie himself. I called him but I just keep getting his voice mail and left him two messages. Still haven't heard from him. So, if one of you could provide me with this info it would be very helpful. Thank you. Dan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=44364 From pjrose at frontiernet.net Sat Jul 6 13:01:52 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: G60 brakes Message-ID: The G60 brakes are widely regarded as being just (barely?) adequate. But given that situation, it's so important to make certain they are operating as effectively as possible. In that spirit, it might be useful to briefly review a recent encounter I had with the G60 brakes on my wife's car. Its stock pads and rotors looked in reasonable condition when we bought the car last fall, but a strong pulsation suggested a serious warped-rotor problem. Otherwise the brakes seemed fairly typical and adequate for casual driving. The car was being used for just low-speed trips around town (only 1500 miles so far), so dealing with the brake pulsation was (unwisely) deferred. A few days ago I decided it was time to install the new rotors (and also the Hawk Blue pads we'll be using at the Glen next week). When I removed the driver's side caliper I found that one of the guide pins had been utterly and absolutely frozen tight. It took about 2 hrs of spraying with PB Blaster and grappling with a Vise Grip pliers to get the pin to move and finally extracted. In spite of its rubber boot being in place and intact, this pin was dry and seriously corroded, and hence the caliper had greatly reduced braking capacity (and perhaps some serious gas-guzzling drag). Hmmm, puzzling that the car still had been able to brake in a nice straight line. So, now on to the other caliper; could _it_ be any worse? There I was startled to find that the outer pad had worn to within a sixteenth inch of the backing plate, whereas the inner pad had been jammed (stuck) and showed very little wear at all. Both guide pins were working OK, but obviously (and for quite some time) all the braking effect had been coming from just one pad. Everything nicely balanced, huh? :-( With everything cleaned up and regreased, braking is now very obviously improved. Just as obvious now is how easily the car can (should) roll--without the drag from either side. I won't be surprised if our sub-par gas mileage increases by 2 or 3 mpg! This experience demonstrated to me how one (OK, "I") can become lulled into accepting really abominable braking; it was scary to discover that we'd been driving with brakes that were limited to just a fraction of their capacity. The G60s will never be great brakes for our cars, and an upgrade is worth serious consideration, but in the meantime, I hope you'll make sure _your_ G60s are functioning at 100% of their capability. For that matter, UFOs, too. Phil P.S. With all that is said about the limited ability of G60 brakes on our cars, I'll reiterate my opinion that they can perform well even on the track--if equipped with excellent pads. This is based on the very good experience that I (and my son) had last year at Watkins Glen in our Hoppen-chipped car using performance pads (Hawk Blue pads). These pads allowed the G60 brakes to do a very adequate job--given the car, the track and the drivers. Of course this assessment might not be appropriate for high(er) HP cars and drivers. -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From calvinlc at earthlink.net Sat Jul 6 11:48:40 2002 From: calvinlc at earthlink.net (Calvin & Diana Craig) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Hard start/long cranking time In-Reply-To: <20020706161137.BB1D547B@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: Sometimes this is indicative of the fuel pump going bad. Sometimes, as was the case on a '91 SHO I had, it is the cam or crank position sensor....more likely cam. My S4 also had a similar problem and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. The pressure regulator is cheap, about $35, and literally takes about 15 minutes to change. I would try this before any other fix, unless you are 100% sure it is not it. It does take quite awhile when the fuel pressure drops to 0 to re-pressurize. I would crank for a good 6-10 seconds on the S4 before getting it to start. The regulator was also elusive because it didn't ALWAYS lose pressure (i.e. when I was measuring it). I replaced the fuel pump first, $200 including labor, then the problem was still there, so that's when I replaced the regulator...problem gone. --Calvin From info4mjs at att.net Sat Jul 6 20:44:29 2002 From: info4mjs at att.net (Michael Stricker) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: 200Q siting in West Hartford Message-ID: <001501c22547$1fcf9a00$18a45a0c@proteva> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Just wondering if there was a lister in West Hartford Center this evening (7/6/02)...Burgundy w/tan interior? Mike -- From jbeer at BooseCasey.com Sat Jul 6 22:11:25 2002 From: jbeer at BooseCasey.com (Beer, Jerald) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: dying rad fan? Message-ID: I think rad fan on the 200q is dying. Seems to be running intermittently (replaced fuse with fresh one) and on low even when AC is on, and then when it wants to step up to next stage I get a squealing sound like the bearing is shot. Assuming the fan is gone (only 188k....) and replacing bearing is not a cost effective option, any recent BTDT for replacements?? Rod @TPC or GPR or thepartsbin or???? TIA Regards, Jerry 91 200qa 97 Cab 94 Cab(adding this week) gsfent@prodigy.net From jordad at hotmail.com Sun Jul 7 01:26:47 2002 From: jordad at hotmail.com (Ben Gibby) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Power steering hoses Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] This is my first post but I have been reading other posts for a few weeks a= nd have learned alot regarding problems that can pop up from time to time. = My problem is in the hose from the pump to the bomb, the union between the = hard and flexible parts is leaking. My question is; What seals the joint, a= n O ring or something that can only be had from a dealership and requires r= eplacing the whole hose? Also; with this leak, will the bomb act like it is= bad from lack of pressure building in system? Ben Gibby '91 20020vTQGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://exp= lorer.msn.com From brett at cloud9.net Sun Jul 7 01:29:35 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: this car sucks(vacuum line, group purchase?) Message-ID: I've got a bunch of vacuum leaks...among them, the ECU moisture trap. Nosing around with a poor-man's stethoscope, not only does the trap leak(I haven't figured out how on earth the trap is leaking, but it is), but so does the hose between the trap and hard plastic line hose. It is very amusing; turn the car off, and with the kickpanel removed, you can actually hear the vacuum release through that section of line. If the hose in the kickpanel is in this tough shape, god knows what kind of shape the rest of the vacuum lines are in. I found what -appeared- to be new/good condition vacuum line hanging around on the shelf...substituted it in place of the old vacuum line. Nope...it leaks in various places almost the continuous length -as well-; running my kludged steth up and down the hose, I kept hearing very small leaks. Only the trap->ecu hose is completely silent. Viton hose is most certainly the ultimate replacement; its tough, oil/heat resistant, and damn near guaranteed to outlast anything else out there. The catch is, Viton hose isn't cheap. The size used on the ECU<->trap<->plastic line seems to be 4mm ID/8mm OD/2mm wall(I believe there is a second size as well, used for one or two other things.) Closest I could find in McMaster was 4/6/1, and it is anywhere from $2.60-$3 per foot. That sounds like a lot...and it is...except that, for the ECU, one needs all of at most 2 feet. It is doing all the rest of the lines which will be the expensive proposition. There is something to be said, however, for never having to worry about a vacuum line in the car again. I think I can do better than McMaster; I'm checking with a friend who has wholesale connections(if you know of cheaper prices than the above McMaster prices, let me know. And no...silicone is NOT an option, its temp rating isn't any better than regular rubber line and it is NOT oil resistant AT ALL, in fact, it is completely inappropriate for environments with oil, which is why I scratch my head bigtime when I see all this silicone-boost-hose nonsense.) We're looking at 4/8/2mm, 60A durometer Viton(or similar.) Who else would be interested in jumping in on a group purchase of this stuff for a quantity sufficient to re-do all the engine vacuum lines? Among other things, this Viton line should be durable enough to handle the temps that kill the turbo bypass control line(Viton is rated to 400 degrees F), although nothing beats a thin copper line for that application.) Actually, does anyone happen to know how much line it takes to completely "do" a 3B, from experience? Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Jul 7 09:23:08 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Power steering hoses In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020707081957.00c57660@traverse.com> -- I don't think there's any seal in that joint, Ben. Rather, I believe it's a compression fitting with a flare on the metal tubing. Unless the line is leaking enough to have a steady stream of fluid running out of it, I doubt the leak would make the car fail the bomb test (which is to turn off the engine and pump the brake pedal until it gets "hard". A good bomb will permit 20-30 + pumps). At 12:26 AM 07/07/2002 -0400, Ben Gibby wrote: >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >This is my first post but I have been reading other posts for a few weeks >and have learned alot regarding problems that can pop up from time to >time. My problem is in the hose from the pump to the bomb, the union >between the hard and flexible parts is leaking. My question is; What seals >the joint, an O ring or something that can only be had from a dealership >and requires replacing the whole hose? Also; with this leak, will the bomb >act like it is bad from lack of pressure building in system? > >Ben Gibby >'91 20020vTQGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : >http://explorer.msn.com >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Jul 7 09:30:08 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: this car sucks(vacuum line, group purchase?) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020707082713.00ce7e80@traverse.com> -- I'd be interested in a group buy of XXX feet of the tubing. It's probably considerably cheaper than $3 a foot on a spool of (just a guess) 100 feet. I doubt you'll get it much cheaper than the by-the-foot price if you just go for a partial spool. No idea how much you need, though, to do a car completely. At 12:29 AM 07/07/2002 -0400, Brett Dikeman wrote: >I've got a bunch of vacuum leaks...among them, the ECU moisture trap. >Nosing around with a poor-man's stethoscope, not only does the trap >leak(I haven't figured out how on earth the trap is leaking, but it >is), but so does the hose between the trap and hard plastic line >hose. It is very amusing; turn the car off, and with the kickpanel >removed, you can actually hear the vacuum release through that >section of line. If the hose in the kickpanel is in this tough >shape, god knows what kind of shape the rest of the vacuum lines are >in. > >I found what -appeared- to be new/good condition vacuum line hanging >around on the shelf...substituted it in place of the old vacuum line. >Nope...it leaks in various places almost the continuous length -as >well-; running my kludged steth up and down the hose, I kept hearing >very small leaks. Only the trap->ecu hose is completely silent. > >Viton hose is most certainly the ultimate replacement; its tough, >oil/heat resistant, and damn near guaranteed to outlast anything else >out there. > >The catch is, Viton hose isn't cheap. The size used on the >ECU<->trap<->plastic line seems to be 4mm ID/8mm OD/2mm wall(I >believe there is a second size as well, used for one or two other >things.) Closest I could find in McMaster was 4/6/1, and it is >anywhere from $2.60-$3 per foot. > >That sounds like a lot...and it is...except that, for the ECU, one >needs all of at most 2 feet. It is doing all the rest of the lines >which will be the expensive proposition. There is something to be >said, however, for never having to worry about a vacuum line in the >car again. > >I think I can do better than McMaster; I'm checking with a friend who >has wholesale connections(if you know of cheaper prices than the >above McMaster prices, let me know. And no...silicone is NOT an >option, its temp rating isn't any better than regular rubber line and >it is NOT oil resistant AT ALL, in fact, it is completely >inappropriate for environments with oil, which is why I scratch my >head bigtime when I see all this silicone-boost-hose nonsense.) >We're looking at 4/8/2mm, 60A durometer Viton(or similar.) > >Who else would be interested in jumping in on a group purchase of >this stuff for a quantity sufficient to re-do all the engine vacuum >lines? Among other things, this Viton line should be durable enough >to handle the temps that kill the turbo bypass control line(Viton is >rated to 400 degrees F), although nothing beats a thin copper line >for that application.) > >Actually, does anyone happen to know how much line it takes to >completely "do" a 3B, from experience? > >Brett >-- >---- >"They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary >safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin >http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ >http://www.apple.com/switch/ >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > -- From DasWolfen at aol.com Sun Jul 7 10:24:50 2002 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: this car sucks(vacuum line, group purchase?) Message-ID: In a message dated 7/6/02 9:38:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time, brett@cloud9.net writes: > And no...silicone is NOT an > option, its temp rating isn't any better than regular rubber line and > it is NOT oil resistant AT ALL, in fact, it is completely > inappropriate for environments with oil, which is why I scratch my > head bigtime when I see all this silicone-boost-hose nonsense.) News Flash: Its been reliably reported that silicone hose comes in many different grades. Industry experts interviewed by or on-the-scene reporter state the reason for this shocking news as: "to allow silicone useage in a wide range of environments". From pjrose at frontiernet.net Sun Jul 7 12:16:26 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: this car sucks(vacuum line, group purchase?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 12:29 AM -0400 7/7/02, Brett Dikeman wrote: >I've got a bunch of vacuum leaks...among them, the ECU moisture trap. >Nosing around with a poor-man's stethoscope, not only does the trap >leak(I haven't figured out how on earth the trap is leaking, but it >is), but so does the hose between the trap and hard plastic line >hose. It is very amusing; turn the car off, and with the kickpanel >removed, you can actually hear the vacuum release through that >section of line. Have you confirmed--by a test of static pressure--that there is significant leakage? I think it's possible that a rush of air through small _internal_ passages could account for some noise--perhaps even noises created at quite some distance from your "stethoscope". So...can you be sure that what you are hearing is caused by localized, external leaks? Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From SuffolkD at aol.com Sun Jul 7 21:08:00 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: More bogus Klez junk Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I got this today along with five others from different sources as well as nick@autox.biz. If the From: (in this case veedubbed) and the return path don't match (like in this example Return-Path: From SuffolkD at aol.com Sun Jul 7 21:12:51 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: finally got the RS2 manifold Message-ID: <123.134818ec.2a5a3303@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Lister(s): Where does one obtain an RS2 exhaust manifold, and are there similar applications to the older 200 10V? -Scott in Boston In a message dated 7/4/02 12:10:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 200q20v-request@audifans.com writes: > I finally got the RS2 manifold. But of course, I didn't know that the > RS2 uses shorter studs than the 200q20v/Ur-S4 (27 mm and 35 mm), so I > installed a set of 35 mm. I had to cut them a bit, they fit now, but > the space under the RS2 manifold is *really* cramped.. I'm almost not > From morpheus0213 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 7 19:27:17 2002 From: morpheus0213 at yahoo.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: 200Q siting in West Hartford In-Reply-To: <001501c22547$1fcf9a00$18a45a0c@proteva> Message-ID: <20020708012717.6653.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> that's my baby :) -Dave --- Michael Stricker wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Just wondering if there was a lister in West > Hartford Center this evening (7/6/02)...Burgundy > w/tan interior? > > Mike > -- > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From morpheus0213 at yahoo.com Sun Jul 7 19:30:44 2002 From: morpheus0213 at yahoo.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: this car sucks(vacuum line, group purchase?) In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020707082713.00ce7e80@traverse.com> Message-ID: <20020708013044.40728.qmail@web11006.mail.yahoo.com> i got the steelbraided tubing for 2$/ft at autozone --- Kneale Brownson wrote: > -- > I'd be interested in a group buy of XXX feet of the > tubing. It's probably > considerably cheaper than $3 a foot on a spool of > (just a guess) 100 > feet. I doubt you'll get it much cheaper than the > by-the-foot price if you > just go for a partial spool. No idea how much you > need, though, to do a > car completely. > > At 12:29 AM 07/07/2002 -0400, Brett Dikeman wrote: > > >I've got a bunch of vacuum leaks...among them, the > ECU moisture trap. > >Nosing around with a poor-man's stethoscope, not > only does the trap > >leak(I haven't figured out how on earth the trap is > leaking, but it > >is), but so does the hose between the trap and hard > plastic line > >hose. It is very amusing; turn the car off, and > with the kickpanel > >removed, you can actually hear the vacuum release > through that > >section of line. If the hose in the kickpanel is > in this tough > >shape, god knows what kind of shape the rest of the > vacuum lines are > >in. > > > >I found what -appeared- to be new/good condition > vacuum line hanging > >around on the shelf...substituted it in place of > the old vacuum line. > >Nope...it leaks in various places almost the > continuous length -as > >well-; running my kludged steth up and down the > hose, I kept hearing > >very small leaks. Only the trap->ecu hose is > completely silent. > > > >Viton hose is most certainly the ultimate > replacement; its tough, > >oil/heat resistant, and damn near guaranteed to > outlast anything else > >out there. > > > >The catch is, Viton hose isn't cheap. The size > used on the > >ECU<->trap<->plastic line seems to be 4mm ID/8mm > OD/2mm wall(I > >believe there is a second size as well, used for > one or two other > >things.) Closest I could find in McMaster was > 4/6/1, and it is > >anywhere from $2.60-$3 per foot. > > > >That sounds like a lot...and it is...except that, > for the ECU, one > >needs all of at most 2 feet. It is doing all the > rest of the lines > >which will be the expensive proposition. There is > something to be > >said, however, for never having to worry about a > vacuum line in the > >car again. > > > >I think I can do better than McMaster; I'm checking > with a friend who > >has wholesale connections(if you know of cheaper > prices than the > >above McMaster prices, let me know. And > no...silicone is NOT an > >option, its temp rating isn't any better than > regular rubber line and > >it is NOT oil resistant AT ALL, in fact, it is > completely > >inappropriate for environments with oil, which is > why I scratch my > >head bigtime when I see all this > silicone-boost-hose nonsense.) > >We're looking at 4/8/2mm, 60A durometer Viton(or > similar.) > > > >Who else would be interested in jumping in on a > group purchase of > >this stuff for a quantity sufficient to re-do all > the engine vacuum > >lines? Among other things, this Viton line should > be durable enough > >to handle the temps that kill the turbo bypass > control line(Viton is > >rated to 400 degrees F), although nothing beats a > thin copper line > >for that application.) > > > >Actually, does anyone happen to know how much line > it takes to > >completely "do" a 3B, from experience? > > > >Brett > >-- > >---- > >"They that give up essential liberty to obtain > temporary > >safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben > Franklin > >http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ > >http://www.apple.com/switch/ > >_______________________________________________ > >200q20v mailing list > >200q20v@audifans.com > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > > > > -- > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From brett at cloud9.net Mon Jul 8 00:44:48 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed In-Reply-To: <3D267F23.3FFEE31A@audifans.com> References: <3D267F23.3FFEE31A@audifans.com> Message-ID: At 1:24 AM -0400 7/6/02, Dan Simoes wrote: > >It's past 1am and I just got home, but couldn't resist putting in the >ecu and going for a ride. First impressions, much faster. Got on it on the >main road, caught up to a camaro (older mid 70s). Light turns red, I'm >laughing, look over, kids are laughing at me. Light goes green, >their tires are spinning and smoking, I'm just behind in first gear, >second I pass them, > >third they are well behind. Hahaha. What is this, a rite of passage with every wagon you own, gotta blow the doors off some unsuspecting camaro driver? :-) I take it the missus has her TDI back. To paraphrase that famous movie line, slightly... "Damn the mileage, full speed ahead!" ;-) B -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Sun Jul 7 22:47:14 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: G60 brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Phil, If the externals of your G60s, the guide pins, were found to be in such poor shape, do you assume that the internals are any better? You don't need guide pins if the pistons are frozen, you know! I assume that you did not overhaul the calipers at the same time and flush the fluid on all four corners, or you would have added further detail to your tale of woe. Bernie > From: Phil Rose > Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 12:01:52 -0400 > To: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: G60 brakes > > The G60 brakes are widely regarded as being just (barely?) adequate. > But given that situation, it's so important to make certain they are > operating as effectively as possible. > > In that spirit, it might be useful to briefly review a recent > encounter I had with the G60 brakes on my wife's car. Its stock pads > and rotors looked in reasonable condition when we bought the car last > fall, but a strong pulsation suggested a serious warped-rotor > problem. Otherwise the brakes seemed fairly typical and adequate for > casual driving. The car was being used for just low-speed trips > around town (only 1500 miles so far), so dealing with the brake > pulsation was (unwisely) deferred. > > A few days ago I decided it was time to install the new rotors (and > also the Hawk Blue pads we'll be using at the Glen next week). When I > removed the driver's side caliper I found that one of the guide pins > had been utterly and absolutely frozen tight. It took about 2 hrs of > spraying with PB Blaster and grappling with a Vise Grip pliers to get > the pin to move and finally extracted. In spite of its rubber boot > being in place and intact, this pin was dry and seriously corroded, > and hence the caliper had greatly reduced braking capacity (and > perhaps some serious gas-guzzling drag). Hmmm, puzzling that the car > still had been able to brake in a nice straight line. > > So, now on to the other caliper; could _it_ be any worse? There I was > startled to find that the outer pad had worn to within a sixteenth > inch of the backing plate, whereas the inner pad had been jammed > (stuck) and showed very little wear at all. Both guide pins were > working OK, but obviously (and for quite some time) all the braking > effect had been coming from just one pad. Everything nicely balanced, > huh? :-( > > With everything cleaned up and regreased, braking is now very > obviously improved. Just as obvious now is how easily the car can > (should) roll--without the drag from either side. I won't be > surprised if our sub-par gas mileage increases by 2 or 3 mpg! This > experience demonstrated to me how one (OK, "I") can become lulled > into accepting really abominable braking; it was scary to discover > that we'd been driving with brakes that were limited to just a > fraction of their capacity. The G60s will never be great brakes for > our cars, and an upgrade is worth serious consideration, but in the > meantime, I hope you'll make sure _your_ G60s are functioning at > 100% of their capability. For that matter, UFOs, too. > > Phil > > P.S. With all that is said about the limited ability of G60 brakes on > our cars, I'll reiterate my opinion that they can perform well even > on the track--if equipped with excellent pads. This is based on the > very good experience that I (and my son) had last year at Watkins > Glen in our Hoppen-chipped car using performance pads (Hawk Blue > pads). These pads allowed the G60 brakes to do a very adequate > job--given the car, the track and the drivers. Of course this > assessment might not be appropriate for high(er) HP cars and drivers. > -- > > Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA > '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) > '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > From dans at audifans.com Mon Jul 8 09:30:04 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed References: <3D267F23.3FFEE31A@audifans.com> Message-ID: <3D2985CC.679741E9@audifans.com> > What is this, a rite of passage with every wagon you own, gotta blow > the doors off some unsuspecting camaro driver? :-) Not every one. I learned yesterday at a local car gathering that older American iron can have up to 375hp in stock form. The 5.0 Mustangs with Cobra trim and laughing gas were claiming 450hp. > I take it the missus has her TDI back. No, the TDI is still my daily driver. If she likes the 200 I'll sell the Volvo 850 wagon. | Dan | From alan.sullivan at lmco.com Mon Jul 8 10:34:08 2002 From: alan.sullivan at lmco.com (Sullivan, Alan) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Message-ID: <5CEB53F93FCED411B49300508BF905EC06EF893E@emss09m07.beth.lmco.com> Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door and the body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and closes. Fixing them will be difficult, as they are bundled together rather tightly. Any suggestions on how to get some slack into the wires for repair? Also, any opinions on how best the make the repairs --- soldering (how do I do that without melting insulation on other wires) versus crimped-on connectors or some other method? Alan Sullivan Northern Va 91 200TQ From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Jul 8 10:56:17 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair In-Reply-To: <5CEB53F93FCED411B49300508BF905EC06EF893E@emss09m07.beth.lm co.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020708095029.00c55da0@traverse.com> -- My approach to doing this repair, which I've been dreading and delaying for eight or nine months, is planned as: Remove inner door panel, Remove side footwell cover, disconnect all wiring in door, pull complete harness through the doorjamb and into the footwell, make splices in EVERY wire about a foot either side of the center of where it passes through the doorjamb and then reinstall. I've been thinking about possibly using pull-apart spade connectors to speed up future repairs. If you just want to fix the ones already obviously separated, I've read there is a harness retainer a little bit inside the door that if you disconnect, you can gain a bit of wiggle room in the doorjamb. At 09:34 AM 07/08/2002 -0400, Sullivan, Alan wrote: >Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door and the >body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and closes. Fixing >them will be difficult, as they are bundled together rather tightly. Any >suggestions on how to get some slack into the wires for repair? Also, any >opinions on how best the make the repairs --- soldering (how do I do that >without melting insulation on other wires) versus crimped-on connectors or >some other method? > >Alan Sullivan >Northern Va >91 200TQ >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From pjrose at frontiernet.net Mon Jul 8 11:34:30 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: G60 brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 9:47 PM -0700 7/7/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >Phil, > >If the externals of your G60s, the guide pins, were found to be in such poor >shape, do you assume that the internals are any better? One guide pin out of four was in bad condition. > You don't need >guide pins if the pistons are frozen, you know! Izzat right? Pistons were not frozen. >I assume that you did not >overhaul the calipers at the same time and flush the fluid on all four >corners, or you would have added further detail to your tale of woe. Full fluid flush planned for today. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From dbpulvino at hotmail.com Mon Jul 8 11:36:16 2002 From: dbpulvino at hotmail.com (Derek Pulvino) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Stop Leak Goop Message-ID: Hey gang, Just wanted to get some feedback on this, and I'm sure I'll see all sides of it but... Does the stop leak sealer work in crankcases as well? Every time I've seen it recomended it's always been related to tranny's or diffs. What's the general consensus on this? I'm looking at a rebuilder right now and from talking to a shop who'd maintained it, in addition to needing a new fender, it also comes stock with a mainseal leak. As it's an automatic, and my bench press strength might not be up to par... Derek P _________________________________________________________________ Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From jeremyp at mindspring.com Mon Jul 8 12:11:06 2002 From: jeremyp at mindspring.com (Jeremy Palenchar) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair In-Reply-To: <5CEB53F93FCED411B49300508BF905EC06EF893E@emss09m07.beth.lmco.com> Message-ID: <001d01c226aa$d4f46f00$7001000a@palencj> Hi Alan, A fellow 200 owner and I have replaced this wiring harness. It is not an easy job but the cost is approx. $100 and will take about 8 hours labor. I have a spreadsheet that describes all of the wires that run through the door and I can put together a parts list if anyone is interested. The procedure involves cutting the harness at each end and installing a new harness that has quick-disconnect plugs. It may be possible to remove the door panel and the wire ties behind it to get some additional slack to repair the old wiring. Let me know if you would like the plans for the new harness. -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Sullivan, Alan Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 6:34 AM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door and the body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and closes. Fixing them will be difficult, as they are bundled together rather tightly. Any suggestions on how to get some slack into the wires for repair? Also, any opinions on how best the make the repairs --- soldering (how do I do that without melting insulation on other wires) versus crimped-on connectors or some other method? Alan Sullivan Northern Va 91 200TQ _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Mon Jul 8 13:23:41 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: G60 brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > From: Phil Rose > Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:34:30 -0400 > To: Bernie Benz > Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Re: G60 brakes > > At 9:47 PM -0700 7/7/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >> Phil, >> >> If the externals of your G60s, the guide pins, were found to be in such poor >> shape, do you assume that the internals are any better? > > One guide pin out of four was in bad condition. IMO, impossible. You must have an unrealistic defination of what constitutes a "bad condition". Examples: A positively frozen guide pin(s), as you described, would cause the outboard pad to be ineffective, shifting all braking force and wear onto the inboard, piston loaded pad. Contrast this to a stiff guide pins condition, in which the outboard pad would apply with high hyd. pressure but would not release, so would drag until it wears free. This must be your stated second caliper condition, there is no other plausable rational for uneven pad wear which is excessive on the outboard pad. > >> You don't need >> guide pins if the pistons are frozen, you know! > > Izzat right? Pistons were not frozen. > >> I assume that you did not >> overhaul the calipers at the same time and flush the fluid on all four >> corners, or you would have added further detail to your tale of woe. > > Full fluid flush planned for today. A fluid flush is at best a preventative against further, future deterioration of the hydraulic system. It can not correct existing problems, such as frozen, sludged up, or not retracting pistons. IMO, having a "new" 11 year old car without hard service history, one must assume the worst, that the fluid has never been changed and that the hyd system is all sludged up and pistons are not retracting properly. Please, do a full bore hydraulic overhaul, all 4 calipers, before letting your wife "drive it around town". Bernie > > Phil > -- From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Mon Jul 8 13:23:41 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Stop Leak Goop In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Sure. It'll work on any rotary shaft seal that is not yet too crisp or cracked. Bernie > From: "Derek Pulvino" > Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 10:36:16 -0700 > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: Stop Leak Goop > > Hey gang, > > Just wanted to get some feedback on this, and I'm sure I'll see all sides of > it but... > > Does the stop leak sealer work in crankcases as well? Every time I've seen > it recomended it's always been related to tranny's or diffs. What's the > general consensus on this? > > I'm looking at a rebuilder right now and from talking to a shop who'd > maintained it, in addition to needing a new fender, it also comes stock with > a mainseal leak. As it's an automatic, and my bench press strength might > not be up to par... > > Derek P > > _________________________________________________________________ > Join the world?s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From allens at mitronics.com Mon Jul 8 16:51:39 2002 From: allens at mitronics.com (Allen Swett) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.20020708155139.00699fd0@mitronics.com> Brett writes "What is this, a rite of passage with every wagon you own, gotta blow the doors off some unsuspecting camaro driver? :-)" Actually the rite of passage is only complete if the other driver and passenger notices the baby seats in the back.... From peschulz at cisco.com Mon Jul 8 16:43:32 2002 From: peschulz at cisco.com (Peter Schulz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.20020708155139.00699fd0@mitronics.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020708154144.037c28f0@millcity.cisco.com> At 03:51 PM 7/8/2002 -0400, Allen Swett wrote: >Brett writes > >"What is this, a rite of passage with every wagon you own, gotta blow >the doors off some unsuspecting camaro driver? :-)" > > >Actually the rite of passage is only complete if the other driver and >passenger notices the baby seats in the back.... Guys: Even better when there are TWO child seats in the rear - and the back is stuffed with kiddie paraphernalia - and the two year old in one of the seats is sticking his tongue out. ;^) -Peter Peter Schulz 1990 CQ 1991 200 20v TQW indigo mica 1991 200 20v TQW titanium grey Chelmsford, MA USA peschulz@cisco.com From ELLIEOLSEN at aol.com Mon Jul 8 17:54:02 2002 From: ELLIEOLSEN at aol.com (ELLIEOLSEN@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed Message-ID: <36.2a1372b4.2a5b55ea@aol.com> Brett writes > >"What is this, a rite of passage with every wagon you own, gotta blow >the doors off some unsuspecting camaro driver? :-)" > > >Actually the rite of passage is only complete if the other driver and >passenger notices the baby seats in the back.... Guys: Even better when there are TWO child seats in the rear - and the back is stuffed with kiddie paraphernalia - and the two year old in one of the seats is sticking his tongue out. ;^) -Peter You guy's are dead on...the joy of seeing a disappointed Detroit Motorhead with his friends in the 80's Mustang 5.0 looking at my Kid, Bikes, the Golden Retriever, the sleeping wife, after I just pulled away from them up a hill on I-75 is well worth the annual insurance premium for the (S)tation-wagon From msvphoto at pacbell.net Mon Jul 8 15:25:43 2002 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: yep, my car is fixed Message-ID: <027001c226c6$043ecd80$1f00a8c0@mike> In a message dated 7/8/2002 Dan Simoes writes: << No, the TDI is still my daily driver. If she likes the 200 I'll sell the Volvo 850 wagon. >> Ah, the extremes we go to get our wives out of their Volvo 850 wagons ;-) I know *I* would much prefer the '91 200q Avant, but no third back seat would be a show stopper for us. Ours is getting a second chance...but one more burned valve and it's gone. Glad to hear you got the 200 sorted out Dan! Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From jeremyp at mindspring.com Mon Jul 8 17:27:54 2002 From: jeremyp at mindspring.com (Jeremy Palenchar) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair In-Reply-To: <001d01c226aa$d4f46f00$7001000a@palencj> Message-ID: <002701c226d7$1668db70$7001000a@palencj> OK, I put together a parts list for the materials I used to rebuild the harness in my driver's door. The grand total was $175 (including a $35 crimping tool). This could be done for much less using Molex 15 position plugs but I think the AMP connectors are built better and provide a more secure connection. I could put together a kit for $200 + shipping if a few people are interested. Please email me if you would like the parts list. -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Palenchar Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 11:11 AM To: 'Sullivan, Alan'; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: RE: Wiring Bundle Repair Hi Alan, A fellow 200 owner and I have replaced this wiring harness. It is not an easy job but the cost is approx. $100 and will take about 8 hours labor. I have a spreadsheet that describes all of the wires that run through the door and I can put together a parts list if anyone is interested. The procedure involves cutting the harness at each end and installing a new harness that has quick-disconnect plugs. It may be possible to remove the door panel and the wire ties behind it to get some additional slack to repair the old wiring. Let me know if you would like the plans for the new harness. -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Sullivan, Alan Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 6:34 AM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door and the body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and closes. Fixing them will be difficult, as they are bundled together rather tightly. Any suggestions on how to get some slack into the wires for repair? Also, any opinions on how best the make the repairs --- soldering (how do I do that without melting insulation on other wires) versus crimped-on connectors or some other method? Alan Sullivan Northern Va 91 200TQ _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From pjrose at frontiernet.net Tue Jul 9 13:22:44 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: G60 brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 12:23 PM -0700 7/8/02, Bernie Benz wrote: > > From: Phil Rose >> Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:34:30 -0400 >> To: Bernie Benz >> Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v@audifans.com> >> Subject: Re: G60 brakes >> >> At 9:47 PM -0700 7/7/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >>> Phil, >>> >>> If the externals of your G60s, the guide pins, were found to be >>>in such poor >>> shape, do you assume that the internals are any better? >> >> One guide pin out of four was in bad condition. >IMO, impossible. You must have an unrealistic defination of what >constitutes a "bad condition". >Examples: A positively frozen guide pin(s), as you described, would cause >the outboard pad to be ineffective, shifting all braking force and wear onto >the inboard, piston loaded pad. Contrast this to a stiff guide pins >condition, in which the outboard pad would apply with high hyd. pressure but >would not release, so would drag until it wears free. This must be your >stated second caliper condition, there is no other plausable rational for >uneven pad wear which is excessive on the outboard pad. No, Bernie, it's neither "impossible", implausible nor irrational-- if you'll (re-)read what I wrote. The guide pins on the second (passenger side) caliper were not "stiff" at all. This I can state unequivocally since their operation was carefully checked when I removed and regreased them. What I encountered (and described) was that the inner pad had become "jammed"--i.e., stuck tight in the carrier and unable to be forced against the rotor; and this apparently caused most of the braking force to be applied via the outer pad. The inner pad's problem resulted from corrosion and accumulations on the upper and lower flats of the carrier, making the pad very difficult to remove--let alone operate properly. Before a new pad could be inserted (let alone slide freely), the upper and lower carrier bracket surfaces required considerable scraping and cleaning. Oh and FWIW, there was no problem retracting any of the pistons (using hand pressure) for the new pads. In the first caliper, the pad wear happens to have been quite even (inner vs outer), which suggests that the guide pin freeze-up may have been a fairly recent ocurrance. You, living in Nevada, may not realize--or possibly have forgotten--how quickly corrosion can occur in the salt belt; although I don't for a minute believe that these brakes had rigorous maintenance. On that we agree. > >A fluid flush is at best a preventative against further, future >deterioration of the hydraulic system. It can not correct existing >problems, such as frozen, sludged up, or not retracting pistons. >IMO, >having a "new" 11 year old car without hard service history, one must assume >the worst, that the fluid has never been changed and that the hyd system is >all sludged up and pistons are not retracting properly. See above--I believe there's no evidence to support your grim, long-distance diagnosis. While I can't assert the front brakes are yet at 100% (or that they wouldn't benefit from a full rebuild in the not-distant future), I beleve thay are of providing a reasonable margin of safety right now. > Please, do a full >bore hydraulic overhaul, all 4 calipers, before letting your wife "drive it >around town". At least _we_ won't be driving with paper-thin rotors and pads. ;-) I do appreciate your advice and concern. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Tue Jul 9 11:36:54 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: G60 brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi Phil, You're right, I did not pick up that the inboard pad was frozen in the carrier and thus ineffective. I agree, this was the likely cause of your problem on #2 calilper. Your experience adds creedance my contention that good external brake PM should include a yearly tear down, including both pad and guide pin inspection. On my old Lancias I used to have to coat the pad and carrier mating surfaces with a sprayed can solid MoSO2 coating to keep the the pad free in its carrier. Sounds like you are on top of your external brake problems, and no put down intended in my earlier comments. The condition of the flushed fluid will give you some indication of the internal caliper conditions. If really gunky, dirty stuff, plan on early caliper overhaul, a dirty but zero cost job. Regards, Bernie '90 90Q-20V 150K smooth as silk G60s '91 200Q-20V 150K smooth as silk UFOs Ford "Quatro" Tractor Other Misc. Toys From pjrose at frontiernet.net Tue Jul 9 14:59:03 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: G60 brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 10:36 AM -0700 7/9/02, Bernie Benz wrote: > >Sounds like you are on top of your external brake problems, and no put down >intended in my earlier comments. The condition of the flushed fluid will >give you some indication of the internal caliper conditions. If really >gunky, dirty stuff, plan on early caliper overhaul, a dirty but zero cost >job. Fluid was quite clear. Last evening while doing the flush we closely scrutinized the rear calipers and found them to be in _much_ better overall condition than the fronts. All pins free and lubed well, the rotors and pads all looked almost new (within the past year). Even the e-brake returns OK. Heck, it's only a 58 kmile car. Frankly, I've never done an internal brake overhaul before. After reading the description that you, Peter and others had given of the internals, I had been planning to completely overhaul the old set of rear calipers that I have left over after installing new ones on the other car last summer (crapped up e-brake function). But now it seems that I have no use for a set of refurbished rears. I think I'll go ahead do those rears anyway--for the fun of it--and for once there'll be no time pressure. After that experience I'll be more inclined to "have at" the fronts calipers, as you suggest. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From Chewy4000 at aol.com Tue Jul 9 16:49:41 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <1EC0A586.5582BB2F.022A5BF8@aol.com> Did our cars come with a sport suspension from the factory. Cause when you look up the part number or call them up, they ask, do you have the sport suspension or not. They have for the rear only, two part numbers. BE52593 B462065 I asked cause I was getting a warranty shock for my 4000csq, and asked about correct numbers for my 200. Chewy From Chewy4000 at aol.com Tue Jul 9 16:45:44 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Russian Catalog Message-ID: <6E17FC12.570DE994.022A5BF8@aol.com> Any one know what happend to there site? Hopefully it will still be up, cause I need it. Chewy From dkpriebe at attbi.com Tue Jul 9 17:02:29 2002 From: dkpriebe at attbi.com (dkpriebe) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Car seat tether anchor Message-ID: <001901c2279c$b3d5a620$e5c4e60c@attbi.com> Recently someone sent out a link to a pdf file which has the instructions for installing the car seat tether anchors for the various Audi models. I am in the process of finally installing this in my S6, and would like the exact instructions (even though it is pretty obvious). Of course I saved this e-mail at work, but I am on vacation (if paternity leave counts as vacation). If someone could please forward this to me, I would really appreciate it. Dave Priebe Kenmore, WA 91 200tqa 157k his 95.5 S6 100k hers From jeremyp at mindspring.com Tue Jul 9 18:28:07 2002 From: jeremyp at mindspring.com (Jeremy Palenchar) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair In-Reply-To: <002701c226d7$1668db70$7001000a@palencj> Message-ID: <000401c227a8$aa2c8ab0$7001000a@palencj> I have completed the wiring diagram, the parts list, and the procedure on how we did this. Send me email if you would like the files. -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Palenchar Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 4:28 PM To: 'Jeremy Palenchar'; 'Sullivan, Alan'; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: RE: Wiring Bundle Repair OK, I put together a parts list for the materials I used to rebuild the harness in my driver's door. The grand total was $175 (including a $35 crimping tool). This could be done for much less using Molex 15 position plugs but I think the AMP connectors are built better and provide a more secure connection. I could put together a kit for $200 + shipping if a few people are interested. Please email me if you would like the parts list. -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Palenchar Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 11:11 AM To: 'Sullivan, Alan'; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: RE: Wiring Bundle Repair Hi Alan, A fellow 200 owner and I have replaced this wiring harness. It is not an easy job but the cost is approx. $100 and will take about 8 hours labor. I have a spreadsheet that describes all of the wires that run through the door and I can put together a parts list if anyone is interested. The procedure involves cutting the harness at each end and installing a new harness that has quick-disconnect plugs. It may be possible to remove the door panel and the wire ties behind it to get some additional slack to repair the old wiring. Let me know if you would like the plans for the new harness. -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Sullivan, Alan Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 6:34 AM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door and the body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and closes. Fixing them will be difficult, as they are bundled together rather tightly. Any suggestions on how to get some slack into the wires for repair? Also, any opinions on how best the make the repairs --- soldering (how do I do that without melting insulation on other wires) versus crimped-on connectors or some other method? Alan Sullivan Northern Va 91 200TQ _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From brett at cloud9.net Mon Jul 8 03:52:50 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: virus warnings(off topic) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Folks, I'm gonna get a little preachy here, since I'm sick of seeing people complain about viruses :-) You've been warned. There's some parallels here, but for the most part..no Audi content. Consider it a small tradeoff for my running this list for so long :-) Viruses are a fact of life for those using Windows systems and a problem inherent in the design of Microsoft products, has been for years, so I'd appreciate people not 'warning' everyone every time a new one comes out("Oh, a new Windows virus? . Anything new?") Tired of the crashes, the viruses, etc? Do something about it. http://www.apple.com/switch/ I've been running MacOS X for almost a year now. Guess how many times the OS has locked up and required a reboot, so far. ONCE. Guess how many times I've had an application crash. Three times. Total. Two of them were in non-Apple beta software I was testing. None of the crashes have affected other programs or the OS. So far, I'm doing better over a year than most PC users do in a week. Guess how many viruses I've been infected with, despite receiving dozens, and having NO antivirus software installed. Zero(further, I have NEVER been infected with a virus on any of the half dozen Macs I've owned, for at least the last 6 years.) Guess how many times I've lost data, in all my years of using Macs, other than hard drive crashes(physical media problems) or directly from my own stupidity. Zero. Guess how many security updates my operating system has had in the last year, not including security updates for the Mac version of Internet Explorer. Two. (Each only applied to those with remote access and web serving enabled, respectively; neither is by default. Both were released within a week of the vulnerability being announced. Oh, by the way, the Mac version of IE has had something like 3-4 security updates so far I think.) Want to guess how many spyware/adware programs I've had to remove? Zero. (my win2k box...8) I strongly encourage any PC user on this list to check out Apple's 'switch' site, which by now you've probably seen the TV commercials for. If you've never used a Mac for more than a few hours, I guarantee almost everything you think you know about Macs is wrong. If you're still not convinced after looking over the Switch site, checking out the various systems available etc...stop by one of the Apple stores and check out the systems in person and talk with the staff. If anything, all the systems are pretty damn cool looking(any mobile user who doesn't start salivating at the sight of the G4 powerbook needs his/her pulse checked, and I have yet to meet someone who doesn't like the new iMac design)...plus you get to play with stuff like the iPod(mp3 player the size of a deck of cards that stores about 1000-2000 songs.) Here's some food for thought, and the parallels I promised. If PCs are so much better because they're the most popular... ...why aren't you driving a Ford or GM vehicle? Food for thought item #2. Are you an Audi "evangelist"? You know what I mean...telling friends, family, coworkers...anybody with a pulse...how much you love your car and how great Audis are? Have coworkers, family, friends, who have told you they're looking for a new car, found Audi sales brochures magically appear in their mailbox or on their desk? Think about what motivates you to do that. Mac users love their systems so much and are so hard-core, some of them actually used to hang around Sears and CompUSA stores and answer people's questions because they'd see sales staff lying to customers about Macs etc.(sales staff in both chains got commissions&training for PCs, no commissions or training for Macs. Which do you think they pushed?) I've owned 7 Macintoshes(2 currently), and I'm almost ready to upgrade to a new Powerbook or iBook. Despite a 1.5Ghz Athlon with 2x the ram and a killer video card sitting next to my 3-year-old Powerbook, guess which gets used more, and guess which one has been turned off for the last 2 days? I'd be happy to discuss any of the points above with interested listmembers...just in private, please, since, well, this is off-topic :-) Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From auditude at get.net Tue Jul 9 19:46:16 2002 From: auditude at get.net (auditude@get.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Message-ID: <3D2B2F78.13566.591A81@localhost> Hi Jeremy, Does this repair just replace the broken wires with unbroken ones in the same configuration? Is there anything to prevent a recurrence of the problem, with the wires breaking in the same spot? It seems to me that it's a stupid design (speaking of 5k's here, not sure if the 200's are the same), having all the wires flex in half, right at the hinge. A design that seems better to me has the wires coming out of the A-pillar at a certain level, and entering the door either higher or lower so that there is more length to flex, and the flexing is more torsional as well. Other cars have this type of setup. I don't know if this is an option somehow, but it would be nice to fix the problem for good, and actually address the root cause. Perhaps the replacement wires (could) have a higher strand content, or are braided or something else that would make them more flexible for a longer period of time? You guys with the '91 200q20v's have gotten maybe 11 years out of the old design before having problems, so maybe just replacing the wires with new ones is good enough for practical purposes. But it would be nice to not have to worry about an area once it's been gone through. There are plenty of "other" problems to get to, at least with my car. If it's not too much trouble, I'd be interested in your parts list. Please send me a copy. Even if it didn't apply directly to my '88 5kcstq, it would probably be a good start for me. My car has at least a few strands broken. Thanks, Ken Jeremy Palenchar jeremyp@mindspring.com wrote: > > OK, > > I put together a parts list for the materials I used to rebuild the > harness in my driver's door. > > The grand total was $175 (including a $35 crimping tool). > > This could be done for much less using Molex 15 position plugs but I > think the AMP connectors are built better and provide a more secure > connection. > > I could put together a kit for $200 + shipping if a few people are > interested. Please email me if you would like the parts list. > > -----Original Message----- > On Behalf Of Jeremy Palenchar To: 'Sullivan, Alan'; > > A fellow 200 owner and I have replaced this wiring harness. It is not > an easy job but the cost is approx. $100 and will take about 8 hours > labor. I have a spreadsheet that describes all of the wires that run > through the door and I can put together a parts list if anyone is > interested. The procedure involves cutting the harness at each end and > installing a new harness that has quick-disconnect plugs. > > It may be possible to remove the door panel and the wire ties behind > it to get some additional slack to repair the old wiring. > > Let me know if you would like the plans for the new harness. > > -----Original Message----- > On Behalf Of Sullivan, Alan To: 200q20v@audifans.com > > Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door > and the body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and > closes. Fixing them will be difficult, as they are bundled together > rather tightly. Any suggestions on how to get some slack into the > wires for repair? Also, any opinions on how best the make the repairs > --- soldering (how do I do that without melting insulation on other > wires) versus crimped-on connectors or some other method? From jeremyp at mindspring.com Tue Jul 9 21:01:16 2002 From: jeremyp at mindspring.com (Jeremy Palenchar) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair In-Reply-To: <3D2B2F78.13566.591A81@localhost> Message-ID: <000701c227be$0ee20c40$7001000a@palencj> Hi Ken, We replaced the wires with new wires and added quick disconnects on either side of the door hinge. This allows us to remove the entire piece that runs through the hinge. It still requires a partial dissasembly of the door but it allows an easy replacement of individual problem wires later down the road. The documents are coming under separate cover. -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of auditude@get.net Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 6:46 PM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Cc: jeremyp@mindspring.com Subject: re: Wiring Bundle Repair Hi Jeremy, Does this repair just replace the broken wires with unbroken ones in the same configuration? Is there anything to prevent a recurrence of the problem, with the wires breaking in the same spot? It seems to me that it's a stupid design (speaking of 5k's here, not sure if the 200's are the same), having all the wires flex in half, right at the hinge. A design that seems better to me has the wires coming out of the A-pillar at a certain level, and entering the door either higher or lower so that there is more length to flex, and the flexing is more torsional as well. Other cars have this type of setup. I don't know if this is an option somehow, but it would be nice to fix the problem for good, and actually address the root cause. Perhaps the replacement wires (could) have a higher strand content, or are braided or something else that would make them more flexible for a longer period of time? You guys with the '91 200q20v's have gotten maybe 11 years out of the old design before having problems, so maybe just replacing the wires with new ones is good enough for practical purposes. But it would be nice to not have to worry about an area once it's been gone through. There are plenty of "other" problems to get to, at least with my car. If it's not too much trouble, I'd be interested in your parts list. Please send me a copy. Even if it didn't apply directly to my '88 5kcstq, it would probably be a good start for me. My car has at least a few strands broken. Thanks, Ken Jeremy Palenchar jeremyp@mindspring.com wrote: > > OK, > > I put together a parts list for the materials I used to rebuild the > harness in my driver's door. > > The grand total was $175 (including a $35 crimping tool). > > This could be done for much less using Molex 15 position plugs but I > think the AMP connectors are built better and provide a more secure > connection. > > I could put together a kit for $200 + shipping if a few people are > interested. Please email me if you would like the parts list. > > -----Original Message----- > On Behalf Of Jeremy Palenchar To: 'Sullivan, Alan'; > > A fellow 200 owner and I have replaced this wiring harness. It is not > an easy job but the cost is approx. $100 and will take about 8 hours > labor. I have a spreadsheet that describes all of the wires that run > through the door and I can put together a parts list if anyone is > interested. The procedure involves cutting the harness at each end and > installing a new harness that has quick-disconnect plugs. > > It may be possible to remove the door panel and the wire ties behind > it to get some additional slack to repair the old wiring. > > Let me know if you would like the plans for the new harness. > > -----Original Message----- > On Behalf Of Sullivan, Alan To: 200q20v@audifans.com > > Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door > and the body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and > closes. Fixing them will be difficult, as they are bundled together > rather tightly. Any suggestions on how to get some slack into the > wires for repair? Also, any opinions on how best the make the repairs > --- soldering (how do I do that without melting insulation on other > wires) versus crimped-on connectors or some other method? _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From malth at umich.edu Wed Jul 10 00:56:31 2002 From: malth at umich.edu (Chris Covington) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: virus warnings(off topic) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Brett, I appreciate your strong opinions on the subject and I do agree that by and large, most Mac systems, especially OS X are more resilient to virii. However, I wouldn't suggest that the systems themselves are so inherently better than PC systems, which to a certain degree they are, but rather that it's just that they're less mainstream, and therefore fewer virus authors / spammers target these systems. In other words, If OS X were top dog, there'd be just as many virii as on a Windows system, but it's not, so nobody cares and therefore they do not write virii / spamware for it. Unix has historically had plenty of virus/worm problems as well, but the issue is just not as mainstream. And you could say the same thing about running a CP/M system right now, or OS/2, VAX, etc. - no virii. I myself have a hard time encouraging people to adopt a system, OS X, which was designed as open-source freeware but resold as closed-source proprietary software. If you *really* want a resilient system, don't bother with the closed-source proprietary OS X, get Free BSD, or Net BSD, (which OS X is based on) or any flavor of Linux. Or if you are going to get a proprietary system, get something with more than a 1 year track record (aka OS X) like Solaris. Obfuscation as a means of security through proprietary operating systems has never really worked - Apple is basically following Microsoft's path. And Apple just doesn't have the track record that Sun has to be able to get away with it. Cov On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Brett Dikeman wrote: > Folks, I'm gonna get a little preachy here, since I'm sick of seeing > people complain about viruses :-) > > You've been warned. There's some parallels here, but for the most > part..no Audi content. Consider it a small tradeoff for my running > this list for so long :-) > > Viruses are a fact of life for those using Windows systems and a > problem inherent in the design of Microsoft products, has been for > years, so I'd appreciate people not 'warning' everyone every time a > new one comes out("Oh, a new Windows virus? . Anything new?") > > Tired of the crashes, the viruses, etc? > > Do something about it. http://www.apple.com/switch/ > > I've been running MacOS X for almost a year now. > > Guess how many times the OS has locked up and required a reboot, so far. ONCE. > > Guess how many times I've had an application crash. Three times. > Total. Two of them were in non-Apple beta software I was testing. > None of the crashes have affected other programs or the OS. > > So far, I'm doing better over a year than most PC users do in a week. > > Guess how many viruses I've been infected with, despite receiving > dozens, and having NO antivirus software installed. Zero(further, I > have NEVER been infected with a virus on any of the half dozen Macs > I've owned, for at least the last 6 years.) > > Guess how many times I've lost data, in all my years of using Macs, > other than hard drive crashes(physical media problems) or directly > from my own stupidity. Zero. > > Guess how many security updates my operating system has had in the > last year, not including security updates for the Mac version of > Internet Explorer. Two. > (Each only applied to those with remote access and web serving > enabled, respectively; neither is by default. Both were released > within a week of the vulnerability being announced. Oh, by the way, > the Mac version of IE has had something like 3-4 security updates so > far I think.) > > Want to guess how many spyware/adware programs I've had to remove? Zero. > (my win2k box...8) > > I strongly encourage any PC user on this list to check out Apple's > 'switch' site, which by now you've probably seen the TV commercials > for. If you've never used a Mac for more than a few hours, I > guarantee almost everything you think you know about Macs is wrong. > If you're still not convinced after looking over the Switch site, > checking out the various systems available etc...stop by one of the > Apple stores and check out the systems in person and talk with the > staff. If anything, all the systems are pretty damn cool looking(any > mobile user who doesn't start salivating at the sight of the G4 > powerbook needs his/her pulse checked, and I have yet to meet someone > who doesn't like the new iMac design)...plus you get to play with > stuff like the iPod(mp3 player the size of a deck of cards that > stores about 1000-2000 songs.) > > > Here's some food for thought, and the parallels I promised. > > If PCs are so much better because they're the most popular... > ...why aren't you driving a Ford or GM vehicle? > > Food for thought item #2. > > Are you an Audi "evangelist"? You know what I mean...telling > friends, family, coworkers...anybody with a pulse...how much you love > your car and how great Audis are? Have coworkers, family, friends, > who have told you they're looking for a new car, found Audi sales > brochures magically appear in their mailbox or on their desk? Think > about what motivates you to do that. > > Mac users love their systems so much and are so hard-core, some of > them actually used to hang around Sears and CompUSA stores and answer > people's questions because they'd see sales staff lying to customers > about Macs etc.(sales staff in both chains got commissions&training > for PCs, no commissions or training for Macs. Which do you think > they pushed?) > > I've owned 7 Macintoshes(2 currently), and I'm almost ready to > upgrade to a new Powerbook or iBook. Despite a 1.5Ghz Athlon with 2x > the ram and a killer video card sitting next to my 3-year-old > Powerbook, guess which gets used more, and guess which one has been > turned off for the last 2 days? > > I'd be happy to discuss any of the points above with interested > listmembers...just in private, please, since, well, this is off-topic > :-) > > Brett > -- > ---- > "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary > safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin > http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ > http://www.apple.com/switch/ > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > From SuffolkD at aol.com Wed Jul 10 01:30:23 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: 200q20v Insurance payoff Message-ID: <15c.1013ab15.2a5d125f@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Excellent job. I love to see people get what they deserve. It does seem like we have to do the insurance companies job....................................customer service= the customer has to do the service. I'm sure the adjuster couldn't have cared less about the upkeep or accessories the car had - just add parts to be repaired until it reaches a predetermined table of percentage values......... sign this, submit that, form form form Switch companies because they are going to jack up your rates some! -Scott in BOSTON > > lled is pretty funny considering where we end up. Mine started at $5000 and > ended at $9500. > From SuffolkD at aol.com Wed Jul 10 01:53:30 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Virus on Audi Thread Message-ID: <4b.1fe94b9d.2a5d17ca@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Web Master/List Guru Brett: My humble appologizes for "don't open the attachment rant". It may be "off topic" but when lister/Audi addresses start showing up in my mail it became Audi topic related (like a fifth cousin) -Scott in BOSTON. I read the 15 plus paragraphs. Your work is underappreciated, I'll buy you lunch at my next event. Watkins Glen has 100% Meat burgers. In a message dated 7/9/02 11:17:33 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 200q20v-request@audifans.com writes: > Folks, I'm gonna get a little preachy here, since I'm sick of seeing > people complain about viruses :-) > From Bayviewtom at cs.com Wed Jul 10 02:15:30 2002 From: Bayviewtom at cs.com (Bayviewtom@cs.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: 200q20v Insurance payoff Message-ID: <33.29b1974b.2a5d1cf2@cs.com> There has been a lot of talk on this subject, and as an insurance agent, allow me to give my two cents worth. The guy with the Avant worked damned hard to get his money's worth, and I applaud him for that. As owners of 200 20V's, we know amoung the enthusiasts they can sell between $7k and up, and more for the rarer Avants. Insurance adjusters are not aware of that, nor do they care. They go by NADA book value, which varies by region. They take that figure, and then deduct any faults they perceive the car to have. e Therein lies a double-edged sword. The insurance you pay on your car is a fraction of its actual worth. The insurance company you are with operates on a term called imdemnity. This means to put you back in the same situation you were in before you suffered a loss. But, insurance company's live and die by their reserves in the stock market, and are not willing to pay out more than they need to. And if you suffer a loss, and get a big pay-out, chances are you will be non-renewed. My advice to the Avant owner is to start shopping for new insurance, as I am 99% certain your insurance company will drop you, since they are now losing money as a result of your loss. Just my two cents as an insurance man, Tom BTW my car is still for sale on e-bay From r at 66-169-158-13.ftwrth.tx.charter.com Wed Jul 10 01:39:21 2002 From: r at 66-169-158-13.ftwrth.tx.charter.com (Rich Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair References: <3D2B2F78.13566.591A81@localhost> Message-ID: <3D2BC889.1060303@66-169-158-13.ftwrth.tx.charter.com> auditude@get.net wrote: > Hi Jeremy, > > Does this repair just replace the broken wires with unbroken ones in the same configuration? Is there > anything to prevent a recurrence of the problem, with the wires breaking in the same spot? > > It seems to me that it's a stupid design (speaking of 5k's here, not sure if the 200's are the same), having > all the wires flex in half, right at the hinge. > The real problem isn't the design, but the specification for the wires. What happens is that as the wire ages and is flexed, the insulation gets stiffer and stiffer. Then the insulation cracks. This then results in ALL of the flexing of the wire to occur at that point, which is now nearly a 0 deg radius bend. The wire then quickly breaks due to metal fatigue. I have seen this failue occur in all manner of Audi's that use that same spec. wire. This is why Audi gets a low mark when it comes to electrical problems as the car ages. rich a. sr. From linust at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 02:19:57 2002 From: linust at mindspring.com (Linus Toy) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? In-Reply-To: <1EC0A586.5582BB2F.022A5BF8@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020710011739.01bb4e80@127.0.0.1> At 03:49 PM 7/9/2002 -0400, Chewy4000@aol.com wrote: >Did our cars come with a sport suspension from the factory. >Cause when you look up the part number or call them up, they ask, do you >have the sport suspension or not. >They have for the rear only, two part numbers. >BE52593 >B462065 Yes, the 200q20v has what is known in Europe as the "sport" suspension--items such as the forged strut/spring components up front, the use of an M12 (vs M10) thread in the rear shock, etc. are a few of the diffs. B46-2065 is the number you want -L *--------------------------------------------------------------------* * Linus Toy Insanity is doing the same thing * * Mercer Island, WA you've always done and expecting * * linust@mindspring.com different results * * - Roger Milliken * *--------------------------------------------------------------------* From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Wed Jul 10 06:00:19 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: What is the best bypass valve for the 200??? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I am looking to replace the stock plastic, rubber diaphragmed bypass valve with an after market metal unit. Do any of you know which valve works best = on the 200? Who makes it? And how much is it? I know there are quite a few companies that offer bypass valves out there that would fit out cars but wh= ich one should I go with? Anyone with experience on this? Dan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= --- Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here[1] =3D=3D=3DReferences:=3D=3D=3D 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c157??PI=3D44364 From dfreed at bear.com Wed Jul 10 10:09:47 2002 From: dfreed at bear.com (Freed, David (Exchange)) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <6BCF27197591D21191F400A0C98576DD04BFA7C3@whmsx32.is.bear.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- Bilstein views sport suspension as any suspension that is 1 to 2 inches lower than stock. Usually that requires an aftermarket set of springs (Eibach, H&R, Abt, etc). Audi factory sport suspension is usually about ?" lower at most. Bilsteins Sport shocks are not stiffer than their HD counterparts, they have a different minimum and maximum length and are valved for most compliant ride at the stationary ride height. So the part numbers in Bilstein are: Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) P36-0370 Front BE5-2593 Rear Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) P36-0369 Front B46-2065 Rear Konis are preferred by some on the track due to adjustability but I prefer Bilsteins on the street due to superior ride and comfort while not compromising performance (I've got my flame suit on). I've used Bilsteins on all my long term cars for the last 20 years and would recommend them to anyone looking for replacement shocks in any street vehicle. I even installed them on my VW Vanagon Camper with outstanding results. You notice the shocks when you sit directly above the front wheels. Dave Freed '93 S4, '91 200 TQA -----Original Message----- Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 15:49:41 -0400 From: Chewy4000@aol.com To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Bilstein? Did our cars come with a sport suspension from the factory. Cause when you look up the part number or call them up, they ask, do you have the sport suspension or not. They have for the rear only, two part numbers. BE52593 B462065 I asked cause I was getting a warranty shock for my 4000csq, and asked about correct numbers for my 200. Chewy -- [ Content of type application/ms-tnef deleted ] -- ********************************************************************** Please be aware that, notwithstanding the fact that the person sending this communication has an address in Bear Stearns' e-mail system, this person is not an employee, agent or representative of Bear Stearns. Accordingly, this person has no power or authority to represent, make any recommendation, solicitation, offer or statements or disclose information on behalf of or in any way bind Bear Stearns or any of its affiliates. ********************************************************************** From maximum at weetamoo.com Wed Jul 10 07:44:45 2002 From: maximum at weetamoo.com (maximum@weetamoo.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: virus warnings(off topic) Message-ID: <20020710064445.20533.h009.c001.wm@mail.weetamoo.com.criticalpath.net> I want to add something to this conversation that is equally relevant to our 200TQ's. Brett's original -line- about multiple virus notes not withstanding. In addition to the fact that my dog downshifts and uses the engine as a braking system, he has once again refused to even attempt to make toast for me. Clearly, this is one of the easiest jobs in the house. All you have to do is get the bread out of the bag, open the toaster door, pop one or two slices in, and press the TOAST button. I'll even handle the orange marmalade, but no; it's back to trying to teach him to hit my snooze button. Useless, I tell you, just damn useless. I would have included more 50 cent words to show that I'm edumacated, but Max ate my thesaurus. Royal aka 20RoT Chris Covington wrote > > Brett, > > I appreciate your strong opinions on the subject and I do agree that by > On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Brett Dikeman wrote: Brett Dikeman wrote > > > Folks, I'm gonna get a little preachy here, since I'm sick of seeing > > people complain about viruses :-) From dans at audifans.com Wed Jul 10 11:27:01 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? References: <6BCF27197591D21191F400A0C98576DD04BFA7C3@whmsx32.is.bear.com> Message-ID: <3D2C4434.7FA643D0@audifans.com> > Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) > > P36-0370 Front > > BE5-2593 Rear > > Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) > > P36-0369 Front > > B46-2065 Rear Something must be mixed up here. I have a listing for HDs of: >bilstein rear B46-2065 >bilstein front P36-0370 Confirmed by bilstein.com. I am still trying to organize a group purchase of these. Let me know if you want in... From malth at umich.edu Wed Jul 10 11:30:36 2002 From: malth at umich.edu (Chris Covington) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: virus warnings(off topic) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Sorry guys, that should've been private: just two computer guys having a healthy discussion. Cov From peschulz at cisco.com Wed Jul 10 11:49:30 2002 From: peschulz at cisco.com (Peter Schulz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? In-Reply-To: <3D2C4434.7FA643D0@audifans.com> References: <6BCF27197591D21191F400A0C98576DD04BFA7C3@whmsx32.is.bear.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020710104618.03813fa8@millcity.cisco.com> At 10:27 AM 7/10/2002 -0400, Dan Simoes wrote: >> Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) >> >> P36-0370 Front >> >> BE5-2593 Rear >> >> Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) >> >> P36-0369 Front >> >> B46-2065 Rear > >Something must be mixed up here. I have a listing for HDs of: >>bilstein rear B46-2065 >>bilstein front P36-0370 > >Confirmed by bilstein.com. > >I am still trying to organize a group purchase of these. Let me know if >you want in... > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v Guys: There difference in the rears is due to the mounting - BE5-2593 is an M10 thread B46-2065 is an M12 thread -Peter Peter Schulz 1990 CQ 1991 200 20v TQW indigo mica 1991 200 20v TQW titanium grey Chelmsford, MA USA peschulz@cisco.com From dfreed at bear.com Wed Jul 10 12:14:41 2002 From: dfreed at bear.com (Freed, David (Exchange)) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <6BCF27197591D21191F400A0C98576DD04BFA7C5@whmsx32.is.bear.com> Bilstein on-line catalog is not clear but http://www.bilstein.com/cgi/cars.cgi?AUDI&&100+200+A6+S4+Quattro+With+Sport+ Suspension+++&&91+96 says Fronts HD is P36-0370 and SP is P36-0369. The listing is for "with Sport Suspension" and says Rears as B46-2065 and B46-2066. http://www.bilstein.com/cgi/cars.cgi?AUDI&&100+200+A6+S4+Quattro+Exc+Sport+S uspension+++&&91+96 is the listing for "exp Sport Suspension" and says Rears as BE5-2593. The Fronts show the same HD and SP listings. I think these are the listings according to http://www.bilstein.com/specs.html Go to Audi and then "Get Models" http://www.urs4.com/technical/suspension.html#shocks seems to agree except for rears and I have 2593's which aren't listed. I will stand by my listing unless Bilstein says different. I have Bilsteins for both my Audis so I'm not joining this GP. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Dan Simoes [mailto:dans@audifans.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 10:27 AM To: Freed, David (Exchange) Cc: 'Chewy4000@aol.com'; '200q20v List'; s-cars Subject: Re: Bilstein ? > Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) > > P36-0370 Front > > BE5-2593 Rear > > Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) > > P36-0369 Front > > B46-2065 Rear Something must be mixed up here. I have a listing for HDs of: >bilstein rear B46-2065 >bilstein front P36-0370 Confirmed by bilstein.com. I am still trying to organize a group purchase of these. Let me know if you want in... ********************************************************************** Please be aware that, notwithstanding the fact that the person sending this communication has an address in Bear Stearns' e-mail system, this person is not an employee, agent or representative of Bear Stearns. Accordingly, this person has no power or authority to represent, make any recommendation, solicitation, offer or statements or disclose information on behalf of or in any way bind Bear Stearns or any of its affiliates. ********************************************************************** From Chewy4000 at aol.com Wed Jul 10 12:29:17 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <127D6912.61A1C5CB.022A5BF8@aol.com> The whole thing is that It would suck to order a set and take it all apart, and then we got the wrong ones. I spoke to the guy in CT with the warranty dept, he said to call the tech dept. I called the tech dept, I get some girl and the only thing she can tell me is, Whell I need to know if your car is factory sport or factory without the sport suspension. I told her the cars here only came one way. She sais no I still gotta know to give you the correct part number. So here I am knowing alot of nothing again. There tech number is 1(800) 537-1085 But I think they only check the site as we would do Chewy From dfreed at bear.com Wed Jul 10 12:44:40 2002 From: dfreed at bear.com (Freed, David (Exchange)) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Re: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <6BCF27197591D21191F400A0C98576DD04BFA7C8@whmsx32.is.bear.com> I apologize for my erroneous listings. They should be: > Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) > > P36-0370 Front > > BE5-2593 Rear with M10 mounting > > B46-2065 Rear with M12 mounting > > Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) > > P36-0369 Front > > B46-2066 Rear Dave ********************************************************************** Please be aware that, notwithstanding the fact that the person sending this communication has an address in Bear Stearns' e-mail system, this person is not an employee, agent or representative of Bear Stearns. Accordingly, this person has no power or authority to represent, make any recommendation, solicitation, offer or statements or disclose information on behalf of or in any way bind Bear Stearns or any of its affiliates. ********************************************************************** From brianl at starsys.com Wed Jul 10 11:10:58 2002 From: brianl at starsys.com (Brian Link) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <01C227FA.16EAF780.brianl@starsys.com> This is what is on my car. Front: P36-0369. Rear: B46-2066. I have them with H&R springs. Brian Link Boulder,CO From dans at audifans.com Wed Jul 10 13:14:25 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: group purchase page is up Message-ID: <3D2C5D61.DEF968D6@audifans.com> To track interest, I started a page: http://www.audifans.com/gp.html I'd like to make this a 1-2 week turnaround, so please hop on quickly if you want in. For now, I'd rather keep this to the models listed so that there is less confusion. Thanks. From auditude at get.net Wed Jul 10 10:28:44 2002 From: auditude at get.net (Ken) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair In-Reply-To: <3D2BC889.1060303@66-169-158-13.ftwrth.tx.charter.com> References: <3D2B2F78.13566.591A81@localhost> <3D2BC889.1060303@66-169-158-13.ftwrth.tx.charter.com> Message-ID: <1026318524.3d2c60bc40d9d@mail.getnet.net> Quoting Rich Andrews : > > auditude@get.net wrote: > > > Does this repair just replace the broken wires with unbroken ones in > > the same configuration? Is there anything to prevent a recurrence of > > the problem, with the wires breaking in the same spot? > > > > It seems to me that it's a stupid design (speaking of 5k's here, not > > sure if the 200's are the same), having all the wires flex in half, > > right at the hinge. > > The real problem isn't the design, but the specification for the wires. > > What happens is that as the wire ages and is flexed, the insulation > gets stiffer and stiffer. Then the insulation cracks. This then > results in ALL of the flexing of the wire to occur at that point, which > is now nearly a 0 deg radius bend. The wire then quickly breaks due to > metal fatigue. I have seen this failue occur in all manner of Audi's > that use that same spec. wire. This is why Audi gets a low mark when it > comes to electrical problems as the car ages. Thank you Rich! That sounds like a perfectly plausible explanation. Fact-based and data-driven, as they say. Getting to root cause. Very cool. Esecially cool, since IIRC the door hinge area doesn't really lend itself well to changing the routing of the wires. Ken From msvphoto at pacbell.net Wed Jul 10 10:53:59 2002 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Message-ID: <004c01c22832$633e5360$1f00a8c0@mike> In a message dated 7/9/2002 Ken writes: << Does this repair just replace the broken wires with unbroken ones in the same configuration? Is there anything to prevent a recurrence of the problem, with the wires breaking in the same spot? >> Good question. (Jeremy--could you please send me a copy of the parts list you created?). In my '87 5ktq I have not had the problem yet in the driver's door loom. This at nearly 200k miles old. I would suggest that doing the repair once the right way will likely be the only time it needs to be done in the normal lifetime of a type 44. There have been past discussions on the mother list of spiral wrap, etc. to help minimize the problem. My 4kq has a broken wire in the door loom I need to attend to BTW. This is a problem with any car that runs wiring through hinged areas (trunk looms are also vulnerable). Older low miles cars (implying many short trips) are perhaps more at risk than those that had mostly highway miles--the failure is a result of the number of times the door is used after all. << It seems to me that it's a stupid design (speaking of 5k's here, not sure if the 200's are the same), having all the wires flex in half, right at the hinge. >> It's the price that is paid for electrical bells and whistles in the doors. ovloV moved the window switches from the driver's door and put them in the center console to help cure the problem--and then put an optional cup holder right over the switches! :( The real solution truly is to get as much electrical stuff out of the door as possible. Given the size of the wire bundle going into a type 44 driver's door and the design of the door I really don't see how it could be improved on much. Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From charlie at istari.com Wed Jul 10 12:16:37 2002 From: charlie at istari.com (Charles Baer) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: group purchase page is up Message-ID: <3D2C6BF5.5B278039@istari.com> Sign me up for Bilstein Sports and H&R 29800 all around to fit a '91 200 Avant. FYI: I called H&R many moons ago and they confirmed that the '91 wagon uses the same springs as the sedan ( assuming the warm body at the other end of the line was correct ). On my '91 sedan about a year and a half ago, the front dropped only 1" but the rear did achieve their quoted 1.4" drop. I used Konis in that setup so less extra lift like the Bilsteins tend to have. Charlie > -----Original Message----- > From: Dan Simoes [mailto:dans@audifans.com] > Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 10:14 AM > To: 200 20v; s-cars > Subject: group purchase page is up > > > To track interest, I started a page: > http://www.audifans.com/gp.html > > I'd like to make this a 1-2 week turnaround, so please hop on > quickly if > you want in. For now, I'd rather keep this to the models > listed so that > there is less confusion. > From SuffolkD at aol.com Wed Jul 10 14:32:48 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Bilstein Customer Serivce Message-ID: <197.9816710.2a5dc9c0@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Just the beginning.............Bilstein needs to take some customer service lessons. Just for fun look at the 10V "directions" I got from California Cust. Service because CT couldn't help. myplacetosaty.com then click on Audi rings then on: Bilstein Front Shock Inserts Replacement Gallery. While it won't help with your part number it will prepare you for the Bilstein experience! -Scott in BOSTON In a message dated 7/10/02 11:48:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 200q20v-request@audifans.com writes: > I spoke to the guy in CT with the warranty dept, he said to call the tech > dept. > I called the tech dept, I get some girl and the only thing she can tell me > is........................................ > > There tech number is 1(800) 537-1085 > But I think they only check the site as we would do > > From pos at theinternet.de Wed Jul 10 21:05:00 2002 From: pos at theinternet.de (Peer Oliver Schmidt) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Message-ID: Mike Veglia, >It's the price that is paid for electrical bells and whistles in >the doors. >The real solution truly is to get as much electrical stuff out of >the door as possible. Given the size of the wire bundle going into >a type 44 driver's door and the design of the door I >really don't see how it could be improved on much. Well, there is another solution, which, I think, is going to be used in the future. Use a digital bus within your car. Anything up from 2 wires will be sufficient. All you need is some brains within the door to accept the keys pressed. The brain will route it to the central system, which in turn, will send information back and distribute it around the car where needed. If I only could solder ..;-( rgds pos From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 15:08:15 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: group purchase page is up In-Reply-To: <3D2C6BF5.5B278039@istari.com> Message-ID: <002f01c2283c$c3de26a0$0d42fea9@newpc> I'd recommend having the Bilsteins modified so that the spring perch for the rear shocks is adjustable via multiple "rings" in the shock body- the rear needs to be raised a tad to look "right," and especially with the wagon. Taka From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 15:15:39 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:17 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <003201c2283d$cc28d7a0$0d42fea9@newpc> Actually, digital bus is already used, even in Audis. :-) The A4/S4 and the A6 use the CAN bus, don't remember the exact terminology, but it's fairly sophisticated and has a lot more capability than is currently used in Audi apps. I'd love to do that for the doors of our type 44s, though. Anyone undertaking that project, pls. keep us posted. Taka From hah at alumni.rice.edu Wed Jul 10 13:18:18 2002 From: hah at alumni.rice.edu (Henry A Harper III) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Message-ID: <01C2280B.E07AF120.hah@alumni.rice.edu> My approach, which seemed easier at the time than attempting to extract the harness out of the door, was: remove interior door panel, side footwell cover (requires knee-crusher bar to come out), then window frame assembly (dangles/rests on ground) for better access into the door. Now repeat approximately 35x: snip out a foot of old wire around the hinge; solder & heatshrink 18" new super-flexible wire to one end, fish through hinge bellows and solder & heatshrink the other end. Reassembly is...you know the rest. Took more than several hours, more like 5-6 (James calls me the milkman) but this is enough of a pain that I didn't want to be in there again because of a fast & sloppy first effort (oh, behave!). Front passenger door took a lot less time (the next year) due to the vastly smaller number of wires...and it was a dirty window switch anyway although there were a couple of wires that were starting to crack too. HTH Henry Harper http://www.henry-harper.com hah@alumni.rice.edu 1991 200 quattro, 116k 1988 GTI 16v, 229k On Monday, July 08, 2002 7:56 AM, Kneale Brownson [SMTP:knotnook@traverse.com] wrote: > -- > My approach to doing this repair, which I've been dreading and delaying for > eight or nine months, is planned as: Remove inner door panel, Remove side > footwell cover, disconnect all wiring in door, pull complete harness > through the doorjamb and into the footwell, make splices in EVERY wire > about a foot either side of the center of where it passes through the > doorjamb and then reinstall. I've been thinking about possibly using > pull-apart spade connectors to speed up future repairs. > > If you just want to fix the ones already obviously separated, I've read > there is a harness retainer a little bit inside the door that if you > disconnect, you can gain a bit of wiggle room in the doorjamb. > > At 09:34 AM 07/08/2002 -0400, Sullivan, Alan wrote: > > >Several of the wires in the wiring bundle between the driver's door and the > >body are broken, right where they flex as the door opens and closes. Fixing > >them will be difficult, as they are bundled together rather tightly. Any > >suggestions on how to get some slack into the wires for repair? Also, any > >opinions on how best the make the repairs --- soldering (how do I do that > >without melting insulation on other wires) versus crimped-on connectors or > >some other method? > > > >Alan Sullivan > >Northern Va > >91 200TQ > >_______________________________________________ > >200q20v mailing list > >200q20v@audifans.com > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > -- > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From msvphoto at pacbell.net Wed Jul 10 12:30:18 2002 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair References: Message-ID: <008301c2283f$d7b96f60$1f00a8c0@mike> In a message dated 7/10/02 Peer Oliver Schmidt writes: > Well, there is another solution, which, I think, is going to be used in the future. > Use a digital bus within your car. Anything up from 2 wires will be sufficient. All > you need is some brains within the door to accept the keys pressed. The brain will > route it to the central system, which in turn, will send information back and > distribute it around the car where needed. If I only could solder ..;-( These systems are already making their way into cars. Truly it is a step in the right direction--minimizing the bundle size will help. However, you still must deliver 12VDC with adequate current capacity to things like motors, amplifier power to audio speakers, etc. so the loom doesn't get eliminated completely. Also, think about the troubleshooting nightmare these systems could become if a shorted data line brings the whole system down (like from a drenched control module inside the door). Good for those of us with mechanical skills combined with electronic troubleshooting capabilities though, I guess. The real solution is to eliminate as much electrical stuff as possible from doors (but when you move the stuff, don't be stupid and put banks of switches under cup holders like a certain Swedish automaker did). I could see getting it down to three or four wires total though--which would be great! Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From pos at theinternet.de Wed Jul 10 21:27:00 2002 From: pos at theinternet.de (Peer Oliver Schmidt) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Wiring Bundle Repair Message-ID: TM writes: >Actually, digital bus is already used, even in Audis. :-) Yep. >The A4/S4 and the A6 use the CAN bus, don't remember the exact >terminology, but it's fairly sophisticated and has a lot more >capability than is currently used in Audi apps. and not only Audi, but most major car manufactures use it. >I'd love to do that for the doors of our type 44s, though. >Anyone undertaking that project, pls. keep us posted. That would be cool. If anyone wants some more information, do a search for ISO 11898- 1 or Bosch + CAN. rgds pos From dans at audifans.com Wed Jul 10 15:45:01 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: interfacing to 200 amplified speakers Message-ID: <3D2C80AD.F9B74EF1@audifans.com> As some of you know, I have a 91 200 wagon (at the moment!) and I am replacing the stock Gamma radio with a non-OEM Aiwa unit. Crutchfield sells an adapter to allow you to connect to the amplified rear speakers (PAC OEM-2, $29.99) and I'm wondering if this is needed or if there might be other brands out there that are better. I may eventually replace the rear speakers but for now I want to leave them in. My car is the non-Bose so I assume this adapter just converts the head unit output from an amplified to non-amplified signal, allowing the speaker amps to do their job. Any BTDT appreciated. Thanks. From jordad at hotmail.com Wed Jul 10 15:51:55 2002 From: jordad at hotmail.com (Ben Gibby) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Why Audi? Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] As I sit here and gather prices for the repairs my car needs; I think to my= self, With all the little problems we have to fix all the time on our cars,= problems we would not have with some other brands, why do Audi people so p= assionatly stick to this marque and rarely stray? We deal with questionable= engineering in some areas and just plain over engineering in others. Jappo= junk has little to no problems with wiring, engine controls etc yet I pers= onally will never own another japanese car, ever. American cars are, well l= ifeless and drab. Other German cars are more reliable yet I don't want one. I sit at work thinking of the drive home, which road will I take today? W= here can I avoid traffic and really push the car and myself to the limits? = I also try to find reasons to drive into town any time I can, just to drive= my Audi. Am I alone in this, or, as I believe, do most of you feel this wa= y? We may never know, it may not have an answer. Maybe we are'nt supposed t= o know the answer. As for me, I plan to just keep on driving and enjoying t= he hell out of my Audi. Ben Gibby '91 20020vQGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://expl= orer.msn.com From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Wed Jul 10 16:35:59 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: interfacing to 200 amplified speakers Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Dan, Since you are going to have new speakers in the back eventually why don't you just run new wires now and skip the adapter? I never use adapters, I always run new wires. From my experience, they never work right. Just a thought. Dan. PS. I don't know if I can get in on the group buy for the headlights yet (financial issues) but I'll let you know if I can. For right now, just count me out. Thanks. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Dan Simoes To: 200 20v <200q20v@audifans.com>, quattro@audifans.com Subject: interfacing to 200 amplified speakers Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:45:01 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from [64.205.178.107] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBEF5CCA000334004321B40CDB26BD0B80; Wed, 10 Jul 2002 11:49:07 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id CFEDE46E; Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:51:49 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid D5BCF3AE; Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:51:47 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 0B56746E; Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:47:58 -0400 (EDT) Received: from audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 540A73AE; Wed, 10 Jul 2002 14:47:57 -0400 (EDT) From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 16:50:37 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Gauge Pods Message-ID: <004201c2284b$1036a4b0$0d42fea9@newpc> Anyone using 2Bennett's a-pillar gauge pods? Before plunking down $90 for this thing, I'd like to know how it compares to the Autometer product- better, same or worse? Taka From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 17:07:33 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Gauge Pods In-Reply-To: <3D2C936B.65CCEAFA@audisport.com> Message-ID: <004401c2284d$6ddb5a00$0d42fea9@newpc> It's for a type 44. No photos. 2Bennett Audimotive- 530-758-7325 -----Original Message----- From: Bob [mailto:bob@audisport.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 4:05 PM To: TM Cc: Quattro List; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Re: Gauge Pods *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro* They have one? Ive been looking for one..! Do you have a URL with a pic? What does it fit? TM wrote: > *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) > Pro* Anyone using 2Bennett's a-pillar gauge pods? > > Before plunking down $90 for this thing, I'd like > to know how it compares to the Autometer product- > better, same or worse? > > Taka From rguzz at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 18:35:40 2002 From: rguzz at mindspring.com (RGuzz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: steering vibration Message-ID: Looks like time to check myself. Steering vibration continues, my Bosch place again tells me there is nothing wrong and that there is no steering dampener in this car and perhaps the vibration is in the steering box someplace. I know it isn't wheel related. Right under your hands while interstate driving. Airbag has been tightened and presumably has no play accounting for this. The possibilities are essentially endless, I guess. Any suggestions to narrow the field? Do I need to locate the steering dampener myself? The car is perfect otherwise, making this a real annoyance. Thanks, Rich From sidman at montereynet.net Wed Jul 10 15:46:40 2002 From: sidman at montereynet.net (George Sidman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Crutchfield speaker adapter.......... References: <20020710195010.EF26A4A1@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <3D2CAB3F.7682A063@montereynet.net> Dan: Be careful here. I have had good success with the Crutchfield adapter solution, but the last Sony head unit I installed contained a mosfet chip that set up a hum in the rear speakers through the adapter. The mosfet conflicted with the rear speaker amp. Crutchfield would not replace or refund, so a fresh wire install was required. Not a terrible job - a better solution - and leaves more room for the next head unit needed. Make sure your new head unit is indeed compatible through the amp. -- George Sidman, President Monterey Network Center sidman@montereynet.net 831. 657. 1500 From mikemilr at blackfoot.net Wed Jul 10 17:45:38 2002 From: mikemilr at blackfoot.net (Mike Miller) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: steering vibration References: Message-ID: <001501c22863$85ea66c0$0200a8c0@mike> ----- Original Message ----- From: "RGuzz" To: "Audi 200 20v Mailing List" <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 3:35 PM Subject: steering vibration > Looks like time to check myself. Steering vibration continues, my Bosch > place again tells me there is nothing wrong and that there is no > steering dampener in this car and perhaps the vibration is in the > steering box someplace. I know it isn't wheel related. Right under your > hands while interstate driving. Airbag has been tightened and presumably > has no play accounting for this. The possibilities are essentially > endless, I guess. Any suggestions to narrow the field? Do I need to > locate the steering dampener myself? The car is perfect otherwise, > making this a real annoyance. > Thanks, > Rich When I had this happen, I had managed to flatspot all four tires - most likely sliding sideways on a gravel road. Obviously, balancing and rotating the tires did not solve the problem. Might be something to check for. mike miller helmville mt with lots of gravel roads. From bimmer_dude at hotmail.com Thu Jul 11 00:42:41 2002 From: bimmer_dude at hotmail.com (Jobe Tichy) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: What is the best bypass valve for the 200??? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I know I was considering the FORGE because of its ability to be rebuilt. I have played with them--never ended up purchasing one because my BPV wasn't broken the vacuum line was--anyway, they can be taken apart, lubed up, and o-rings and the piston can be replaced. I guess just recently, the Forge ha= ve gone from a nylon piston to a metal piston so I suppose they are interchangeable. In my opinion, it's more comforting knowing you can repla= ce the parts on it to keep the turbo running tip-top. Also, they're beefy as hell and look as though they can take quite a beating. As for performance, a buddy with a urS4 has one after I recommended it and says he likes it quite a bit. It keeps the turbo spooled up better than the stock BPV, especially since the car's chipped. Price--$140 I believe. JOBE '91 200tq 20v '84 BMW 318i (modified) >From: "Audi Sport" >To: 200q20v@audifans.com >Subject: What is the best bypass valve for the 200??? >Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2002 05:00:19 -0400 > >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] >I am looking to replace the stock plastic, rubber diaphragmed bypass valve >with an after market metal unit. Do any of you know which valve works best= on >the 200? Who makes it? And how much is it? I know there are quite a few >companies that offer bypass valves out there that would fit out cars but which >one should I go with? Anyone with experience on this? > >Dan > >--------------------------------------------------------------------------= ---- >Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here[1] > >=3D=3D=3DReferences:=3D=3D=3D > 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c157??PI=3D44364 > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= --- Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] =3D=3D=3DReferences:=3D=3D=3D 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=3D44364 From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jul 10 21:01:13 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: steering vibration In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020710195746.00d12ac0@traverse.com> -- At 05:35 PM 07/10/2002 -0400, RGuzz wrote: >Looks like time to check myself. Steering vibration continues, my Bosch >place again tells me there is nothing wrong and that there is no >steering dampener in this car and perhaps the vibration is in the >steering box someplace. I know it isn't wheel related. Right under your >hands while interstate driving. Airbag has been tightened and presumably >has no play accounting for this. The possibilities are essentially >endless, I guess. Any suggestions to narrow the field? Do I need to >locate the steering dampener myself? The car is perfect otherwise, >making this a real annoyance. There IS a steering damper on the 200q20v. Bentley describes its replacement without disturbing the other steering components on Pg. 48.8a. Pre-replacement testing involves removing the outer anchoring bolt and cycling the damper's rod through its full stroke. "The rod must move evenly without jerking." -- From pjrose at frontiernet.net Wed Jul 10 21:33:04 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil and Judy Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: steering vibration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 5:35 PM -0400 7/10/02, RGuzz wrote: >Looks like time to check myself. Steering vibration continues, my Bosch >place again tells me there is nothing wrong and that there is no >steering dampener in this car and perhaps the vibration is in the >steering box someplace. I know it isn't wheel related. Right under your >hands while interstate driving. Airbag has been tightened and presumably >has no play accounting for this. The possibilities are essentially >endless, I guess. Any suggestions to narrow the field? Do I need to >locate the steering dampener myself? The car is perfect otherwise, >making this a real annoyance. >Thanks, >Rich If there's no steering damper, then it's been removed (and if not, your Bosch place is apparently clueless about special aspects of the '91 200q.) A bad damper may not be the cause of your problem, but look for it right above the right (passenger side) of the steering rack--bolted to the assembly that anchors the inner tie rod ends; the damper extends from there out to the inner fender wall. Fairly easy to see if your looking for it. I replaced mine when it started leaking fluid (at about 110K miles). Replacement unit is under $20 (with an aftermarket VW part) from Rod at TPC. The main symptom of a bad (or missing) damper is a tendency for the car to wander (the "tramline" effect) due to being pulled by slight longitudinal ruts or grooves worn in the roadway. There is also an adjustment bolt at the top of steering gear (see Bentley). That should be *carefully* snugged up to eliminate a clunking that can be felt/heard when making quick movements of the steering wheel. That could be your problem--if it's come very loose. Must be careful not to overtighten this. Phil -- ********************************* * Phil & Judy Rose Rochester, NY * * mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net * ********************************* From auditude at get.net Wed Jul 10 19:36:17 2002 From: auditude at get.net (auditude@get.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: What is the best bypass valve for the 200??? Message-ID: <3D2C7EA1.22692.492264@localhost> Check out http://www.gofastbits.com.au/inside.htm for that company's take o= n bypass valves. Other links at the bottom as well. I have no experience with them or any other valve. Here's the text too: > GFB Blow-Off Valves are the only valves on the market to boast these > unique features: > > =B7 The brass piston features a taper that in the closed position seats > against an acetal seal that means it WILL NOT LEAK under boost. The > bore also features a quad-ring seal to maintain the integrity of the > vacuum signal that opens the valve for quick reaction. All the other > valves in this class rely on the diameter of the piston for sealing, > and after a while the wear associated with the operation of the valve > will increase the amount of air that leaks out through the bore. > > =B7 During operation the piston of a blow-off valve shuts rapidly onto > the stop, where the acetal seal in the GFB valve cushions the impact. > Other valves do not have this feature, and eventually the soft brass > piston can become severely damaged, causing jamming problems due to > brass flakes. > > =B7 Manufacture of GFB products is carried out on the latest multi-axis > CNC machines under the international quality standard ISO 9000. > > =B7 GFB Blow-Off Valves are physically smaller whilst retaining the same > high airflow characteristics of other valves, however the smaller size > means they are more suited to modern engine bays. > > =B7 GFB Blow-Off Valves are versatile. They can be mounted in two > different ways, either as a push fit inside the factory rubber hoses > with a variety of different sized fittings to suit all turbo vehicles, > or they can be mounted onto a 1 inch O.D. steel or alloy pipe. > > =B7 The piston uses less material for low inertia, which translates to a > faster response time. > > Why Fit a GFB High Performance Blow-Off Valve? > > Four reasons: > > 1) Driveability > > 2) Fuel efficiency > > 3) Boosting up applications (factory valves can leak like a sieve!) > > 4) The noise! > > And How Does a GFB Valve Do All Of This? > > 1-2) Most turbo cars have some form of factory blow off valve > (sometimes referred to as bypass or anti-surge valves), most of which > dump the excess turbo pressure back into the inlet to reduce or > eliminate the associated noise. It is common for factory valves to > open at very slight vacuum signals, meaning that whenever your > manifold pressure is not experiencing boost, the valve is wide open > and is recirculating a significant amount of air from the turbo's > outlet to it's inlet. This means that for about 95% of the time that > you are driving your car, the turbo is trying to generate boost but > can't until the valve shuts. In this condition you might as well take > the turbo off the car! > > If a slight throttle increase is made (say to maintain speed on a > freeway up a small rise) and the manifold pressure makes the > transition from vacuum to boost, the valve closes. So the rather > significant amount of air that has been pumped around in circles by > the turbo is now pressurised and directed at the engine. The end > result is an annoying surge that makes freeway speeds difficult to > maintain. > > A GFB Blow Off Valve uses the correct spring pressure to keep the > valve closed until it is needed, so that the turbo's energy is not > going to waste at light throttle applications. End result? You now use > less throttle to drive the car around for the 95% of the time that is > not spent on boost, meaning better fuel economy. > > 3) A factory blow off valve is only designed to cope with factory > levels of power, and tests performed on a variety of them show that > they leak significantly at boost pressures as low as 3psi! Why waste > that boost? It is also important to realise that a small boost > increase of 2-3psi will quite dramatically increase the speed of the > turbo and the airflow passing through it, and it is almost certain > that a factory valve will not be able to vent the required volume > quickly enough to prevent damage to the turbo. > > Quite often a factory valve will be undersized, and will compensate by > staying open for ridiculous periods of time. GFB Blow-Off Valves > utilize an acetal seal in the closed position to ensure NO LEAKS under > boosted up conditions, and the generous porting will easily vent > larger quantities of air more rapidly. The spring pressure is also > adjustable to enable the valve to be tuned to the boost level being > run. > > 4) If you want people to know that you are driving a turbocharged car, > you need the WHOOOSH noise between gear changes! GFB Blow-Off Valves > come in a range of venting arrangements to suit your needs. Choose > from the silent operation of the plumb back model, to the > ear-shattering twin trumpet Bovus Maximus. Or for the best of both > worlds in cars with airflow meters the hybrid allows some air to be > plumbed back to keep the ECU happy, while still gracing pedestrians > with that distinctive roar! > > How a Blow-Off Valve Works: > > Most Blow-Off Valves utilise a piston or stem valve, using a spring to > return it to the closed position. The inlet port of the BOV is plumbed > into the inlet tract of the engine somewhere between the turbo outlet > and the throttle body, and is usually arranged so that the boost > pressure pushes the piston against the spring. The other side of the > piston is a sealed chamber that is connected to the inlet manifold > after the throttle body via a vacuum hose. > > When the throttle is open and the turbo is making boost, there are > relatively equal pressures on both sides of the piston, allowing the > spring to keep it tightly shut. When you close the throttle rapidly, > the increase in pressure on the turbo side of the piston and resulting > vacuum on the manifold side create a large differential, which snaps > the valve open and allows the turbo to freewheel. > > What Does a Blow-Off Valve Do (apart from the noise!)?: > > The vast majority of turbo owners fit aftermarket blow off valves > simply for the signature noise that they make between gearshifts. > While that may be reason enough to fit one, they do actually serve a > more important purpose than that. A common misconception is that if a > turbocharged car doesn't make a "whoosh" noise, it doesn't have a > blow-off valve. Almost every modern turbo car will have some form of > blow-off valve, except that the vented air is returned to the inlet > tract before the turbo to muffle the sound. > > A good analogy for what happens in a turbo system when you close the > throttle is water hammer in household pipes when you turn the tap off > too quickly. The same thing happens when your turbo is spinning at > about 100 000 RPM, pumping pressurised air into the engine. When the > throttle butterfly snaps shut for a gearshift, that air (which can be > travelling at up to 90 metres per second) has nowhere to go except > back the way it came and out through the turbo. This is bad for a > number of reasons. First, slowing the turbo from maximum RPM to > practically zero in less than a second is obviously going to place a > lot of strain on the turbo. Secondly, since the turbo has stalled, the > lag when you open the throttle again is increased. > > The BOV is designed to release excess pressure under these conditions > to allow the turbo to freewheel, which both prevents damage and > reduces lag. The noise is achieved simply by venting the air > externally. Why are GFB high performance Blow - Off Valves BETTER THAN > THE REST? Other links: http://www.newdimensions.com/products/page_11.html http:// ... eh, you get the picture and can search :-) Later, Ken Jobe Tichy bimmer_dude@hotmail.com wrote: > > I know I was considering the FORGE because of its ability to be > rebuilt. > > I have played with them--never ended up purchasing one because my BPV > wasn't broken the vacuum line was--anyway, they can be taken apart, > lubed up, and o-rings and the piston can be replaced. I guess just > recently, the Forge ha=3D ve gone from a nylon piston to a metal piston > so I suppose they are interchangeable. In my opinion, it's more > comforting knowing you can repla=3D ce the parts on it to keep the turbo > running tip-top. Also, they're beefy as hell and look as though they > can take quite a beating. > > As for performance, a buddy with a urS4 has one after I recommended it > and says he likes it quite a bit. It keeps the turbo spooled up > better than the stock BPV, especially since the car's chipped. > > Price--$140 I believe. > > >From: "Audi Sport" > > > >I am looking to replace the stock plastic, rubber diaphragmed bypass > >valve with an after market metal unit. Do any of you know which valve > >works best on the 200? Who makes it? And how much is it? I know there = are quite a > >few companies that offer bypass valves out there that would fit out > >cars but which one should I go with? Anyone with experience on this? From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 23:12:25 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Vacuum Line Clamps and Lines Message-ID: <006e01c22880$6659a0b0$0d42fea9@newpc> Listers- I don't know if this is common knowledge, but having recently installed my admittedly ghetto rig boost gauge setup, in the process I found that the pinch clamps sold for GM turbodiesel trucks (6.2L, IIRC) in little packs labeled "Help!" at your local auto parts store work perfectly for the 3.5mm OEM vacuum lines in our cars. Now can anyone point me to an inexpensive source for the vacuum line itself? Pete at ZZ Motors sold me some for over $1/ft., I'd like to find it for less and I'd like to buy 20-30 ft. of the stuff. Taka From ekellock at juno.com Wed Jul 10 21:14:37 2002 From: ekellock at juno.com (Edward J Kellock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <20020710.202720.-673821.2.ekellock@juno.com> I have P36-0370 and B46-2065 on my V8. At least that's what the invoice from Top Notch in Duluth, GA says. (Previous group purchase, have you contacted them?) Ed Colorado Springs On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 10:27:01 -0400 Dan Simoes writes: > > Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) > > > > P36-0370 Front > > > > BE5-2593 Rear > > > > Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) > > > > P36-0369 Front > > > > B46-2065 Rear > > Something must be mixed up here. I have a listing for HDs of: > >bilstein rear B46-2065 > >bilstein front P36-0370 > > Confirmed by bilstein.com. > > I am still trying to organize a group purchase of these. Let me > know if > you want in... > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. From ekellock at juno.com Wed Jul 10 20:58:39 2002 From: ekellock at juno.com (Edward J Kellock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200q20v Insurance payoff Message-ID: <20020710.202720.-673821.0.ekellock@juno.com> I went through almost the same experience with my Avant. USAA. They non-renewed me the next time around. I'm with Safeco now. Are there any insurance companies that don't play this game as hard as these two? Ed Colorado Springs On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 01:15:30 EDT Bayviewtom@cs.com writes: > There has been a lot of talk on this subject, and as an insurance > agent, > allow me to give my two cents worth. > > The guy with the Avant worked damned hard to get his money's worth, > and I > applaud him for that. As owners of 200 20V's, we know amoung the > enthusiasts > they can sell between $7k and up, and more for the rarer Avants. > Insurance > adjusters are not aware of that, nor do they care. They go by NADA > book > value, which varies by region. They take that figure, and then > deduct any > faults they perceive the car to have. > e > Therein lies a double-edged sword. The insurance you pay on your car > is a > fraction of its actual worth. The insurance company you are with > operates on > a term called imdemnity. This means to put you back in the same > situation you > were in before you suffered a loss. But, insurance company's live > and die by > their reserves in the stock market, and are not willing to pay out > more than > they need to. And if you suffer a loss, and get a big pay-out, > chances are > you will be non-renewed. My advice to the Avant owner is to start > shopping > for new insurance, as I am 99% certain your insurance company will > drop you, > since they are now losing money as a result of your loss. > > Just my two cents as an insurance man, > Tom > BTW my car is still for sale on e-bay > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. From ekellock at juno.com Wed Jul 10 21:01:27 2002 From: ekellock at juno.com (Edward J Kellock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <20020710.202720.-673821.1.ekellock@juno.com> I have Bilstein HD's on my V8. Their gas-pressurized nature caused the car to be raised by about 1/2 inch. They do not have what I would refer to as "superior ride comfort" on the street. My friend's lowered urS4 is more comfortable around town. Ed Colorado Springs On Wed, 10 Jul 2002 09:09:47 -0400 "Freed, David (Exchange)" writes: > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not > understand > this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. > -- > Bilstein views sport suspension as any suspension that is 1 to 2 > inches > lower than stock. Usually that requires an aftermarket set of > springs > (Eibach, H&R, Abt, etc). Audi factory sport suspension is usually > about ?" > lower at most. Bilsteins Sport shocks are not stiffer than their > HD > counterparts, they have a different minimum and maximum length and > are > valved for most compliant ride at the stationary ride height. So > the part > numbers in Bilstein are: > > > > Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) > > P36-0370 Front > > BE5-2593 Rear > > > > Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) > > P36-0369 Front > > B46-2065 Rear > > > > Konis are preferred by some on the track due to adjustability but I > prefer > Bilsteins on the street due to superior ride and comfort while not > compromising performance (I've got my flame suit on). I've used > Bilsteins > on all my long term cars for the last 20 years and would recommend > them to > anyone looking for replacement shocks in any street vehicle. I > even > installed them on my VW Vanagon Camper with outstanding results. > You notice > the shocks when you sit directly above the front wheels. > > > > Dave Freed '93 S4, '91 200 TQA > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 15:49:41 -0400 > > From: Chewy4000@aol.com > > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > > Subject: Bilstein? > > > > Did our cars come with a sport suspension from the factory. Cause > when you > look up the part number or call them up, they ask, do you have the > sport > suspension or not. They have for the rear only, two part numbers. > BE52593 > B462065 > > > > I asked cause I was getting a warranty shock for my 4000csq, and > asked about > correct numbers for my 200. > > > > Chewy > > > > -- > [ Content of type application/ms-tnef deleted ] > -- > ********************************************************************** > Please be aware that, notwithstanding the fact that the person > sending > this communication has an address in Bear Stearns' e-mail system, > this > person is not an employee, agent or representative of Bear Stearns. > Accordingly, this person has no power or authority to represent, > make > any recommendation, solicitation, offer or statements or disclose > information on behalf of or in any way bind Bear Stearns or any of > its > affiliates. > ********************************************************************** > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. From Bayviewtom at cs.com Thu Jul 11 00:16:13 2002 From: Bayviewtom at cs.com (Bayviewtom@cs.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200q20v Insurance payoff Message-ID: Ed, Unfortunately, most insurance companies play by the rule that if you suffer a significant loss, they will non-renew you because they lost money as a result of your claim. As a result, you, the insured, are considered "tainted" since you have been non-renewed, and any insurance company willing to take your business will consider your loss history when they figure out your premium. It's the ugly business of insurance. We all need it, but the companies are in it to make money, not pay out money. To all of you who have suffered losses, you can at least take some comfort that if you are claims-free for three years, you are on good ground again. Tom From brett at cloud9.net Thu Jul 11 00:29:29 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Vacuum Line Clamps and Lines In-Reply-To: <006e01c22880$6659a0b0$0d42fea9@newpc> References: <006e01c22880$6659a0b0$0d42fea9@newpc> Message-ID: At 10:12 PM -0400 7/10/02, TM wrote: >Now can anyone point me to an inexpensive source for the vacuum line >itself? Pete at ZZ Motors sold me some for over $1/ft., I'd like to find >it for less and I'd like to buy 20-30 ft. of the stuff. We're working on a group purchase of Viton(or similar indestructible material) line. Stay tuned. In the meantime, if you just gotta have vac line, Paul/Peter/Chris all recommended this place to me: Northern Foreign Car Parts 800-343-1506 They're in NH. B -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Jul 11 00:32:36 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200q20v Insurance payoff In-Reply-To: <20020710.202720.-673821.0.ekellock@juno.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020710232945.00c57590@traverse.com> -- At 07:58 PM 07/10/2002 -0600, Edward J Kellock wrote: >I went through almost the same experience with my Avant. >USAA. They non-renewed me the next time around. >I'm with Safeco now. Are there any insurance companies >that don't play this game as hard as these two? One of the things you can do if you have a "special" car is to get a value-stated insurance policy. The insurer accepts a value an independent evaluator sets (and bills you appropriately), so in the event of a total loss, you know how much you'll get. Most companies issue these, but there also are specialists in the special-car and special-boat and special-cycle categories. -- From linust at mindspring.com Wed Jul 10 23:43:01 2002 From: linust at mindspring.com (Linus Toy) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: interfacing to 200 amplified speakers In-Reply-To: <3D2C80AD.F9B74EF1@audifans.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20020710220108.01badf58@127.0.0.1> At 02:45 PM 7/10/2002 -0400, Dan Simoes wrote: >As some of you know, I have a 91 200 wagon (at the moment!) and I am >replacing the stock Gamma radio with a non-OEM Aiwa unit. >Crutchfield sells an adapter to allow you to connect to the amplified >rear speakers (PAC OEM-2, $29.99) and I'm wondering if this is needed or >if there might be other brands out there that are better. >I may eventually replace the rear speakers but for now I want to leave >them in. My car is the non-Bose so I assume this adapter just converts >the head unit output from an amplified to non-amplified signal, allowing >the speaker amps to do their job. > >Any BTDT appreciated. Thanks. This isn't exactly the same, as I have a 91 200q sedan w/ Bose (had Bose). Over the 4th of July weekend, I installed a new Alpine 7874 head unit with inexpensive 6x9 rears and 3.5" fronts (under the dash screens -- it really needs a 4", but the 4"s I found have too big a magnet to clear the rest of the stuff under there)...Some of you are going to say WTF? but there was some logic to all this...as some may recall, I feel the real music from the car comes from 20valves under the hood, so I originally vowed to keep this simple and inexpensive. After two speakers and the head unit went bad, my plan was to install an old (period correct) Blaupunkt Lexington (originally from my '87 4000csq) along with simple generic speakers...after acquiring and installing the speakers, I bench tested the Blaupunkt...10+ years of idleness didn't do good for the unit...no radio reception, and controls for the tape were non-op. oops. A little research, and the 7874 seemed to be the best bang for the buck. Install leveraged what I could of the original components... * I left in the original 6-disc changer (even though the 7874 has its own CD player). * the bose speakers were common grounded...I couldn't find any warning against common grounding for the Alpine, but the Blaupunkt warned against common grounding, so I undid this...the speaker ground wires are crimped together at the radio end of the speaker wiring harness, before the signal leads plug into the factory harness connector. * On the speaker end, the factory connector has four conductors. Two of these are switched power and ground for the amp, the other two are signal/ground for the speaker. Removing the factory connector from the Bose speaker, I crimped 1/4" QC on the signal/ground wires for the speaker and plugged it into the 6x9. The power and ground for the amp go unused * Pyle 6x9 3-way speakers mount to the Bose 6.5" adapter. Need to find some 1/4" to 3/8" foam to fill the gap between the adapter and the speaker frame (there's a huge paper stack glued on the Bose speaker to fill that gap. * I didn't feel like disassembling the front door panels so I decided to drop speakers into the dash. These literally drop into a slot and mounting stud under the dash grill. Anyone know what the best fitting speaker is for this? The cheap 3.5" speakers I got work, but are a tad small for the space. This does require fishing new wires to the head unit--easy on the passenger side, more challenging on the driver side. * I used a Crutchfield factory harness adapter ($15), so I didn't cut the factory harness (except for the common grounds on the speakers). However, it is really designed for the non-Bose cars, so I had to do some verification of leads in the factory harness. In addition, there's no wiring diagram for the Bose system in the Bentley (but there is one for the non-Bose wagon). Interestingly, the Crutchfield wiring harness adapter follows the same color code as the Alpine, and different from the factory wires. Hans & Franz strike again. Sound...Just fine, thank you, for what I want, given the suspension on my car (H&R V8 springs, Bilstein, 235/45-17" rubber) and the roads around here (Seattle). My "commute"--taking the girls to day care during rush hour--isn't conducive to fine audio. My listening preferences tend toward neutral, open sound. Its been a few months since I've had sound in my car, so this is great :) No sub, so no major thump from the system, if that's what you want. The dash speakers do much better than I expected, with good presence and imaging (despite the reflection off the window) but perhaps that's just their location vs. the down-low door speakers from before. Since this is all very subjective, if anyone in the Seattle area wants a listen, drop me a line. --Linus *--------------------------------------------------------------------* * Linus Toy Insanity is doing the same thing * * Mercer Island, WA you've always done and expecting * * linust@mindspring.com different results * * - Roger Milliken * *--------------------------------------------------------------------* From project20vt at yahoo.com Thu Jul 11 01:08:48 2002 From: project20vt at yahoo.com (Justin Olson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Intake Manifold Worth? Message-ID: <20020711070848.53463.qmail@web10405.mail.yahoo.com> I'm building a custom intake manifold with the throttle body on the drivers side. How much is my factory intake worth? Thanks, Justin __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From maximum at weetamoo.com Thu Jul 11 05:36:08 2002 From: maximum at weetamoo.com (maximum@weetamoo.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200q20v Insurance payoff Message-ID: <20020711043608.6904.h009.c001.wm@mail.weetamoo.com.criticalpath.net> From maximum at weetamoo.com Thu Jul 11 05:48:33 2002 From: maximum at weetamoo.com (maximum@weetamoo.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200q20v Insurance payoff Message-ID: <20020711044835.22596.h022.c001.wm@mail.weetamoo.com.criticalpath.net> > I went through almost the same experience with my Avant. > USAA. They non-renewed me the next time around. > I'm with Safeco now. Are there any insurance companies > that don't play this game as hard as these two? Amica Mutual Insurance Company.... I've always been treated fairly... been paid promptly... and never even thought that they would non-renew me. Most of my claims have been small and in the case of my only accident it wasn't my fault ( altough the "target" also had Amica ). The first car my family insured with them was a Ford Model T. Not to bore you, but I got after my Dad about 10 years ago for not having replacement value insurance on the house. He didn't say anything about it but called Amica to change his coverage. They told him to just wait 2 months and change it at renewal time. Before that happened a pipe broke and destroyed all the hardwood floors in our house. Amica actually paid the full replacement value because they admitted that they had suggested that he wait. That having been said... Amica is what's known as a select risk mutual insurance company so they don't insure everything and everyone. For example, I get a great rate on my cars and home but when I went to insure my motorcycle a few years back the rate was about 1200 instead of the 200 I got from Progressive. They don't like to insure motorcycles... but they don't mind telling you either. If you're a DWI graduate or regular scoflaw motorist they may tell you to hit the road too.... depending upon the laws in the state where they do business. Royal aka 20RoT From Djdawson2 at aol.com Thu Jul 11 13:32:10 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Compression in cooling Message-ID: <115.143eedd5.2a5f0d0a@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Anyone ever run into or had any BTDT with compression in the cooling system. I just took my first long trip in the 20v, and had a less than good time during the last 10% of the trip. Somehow exessive pressure is building in the cooling system which first blew the cap off the overflow tank, then blew the radiator end cap, finally blew the end off of the electric coolant pump. The source of the pressure appears to be compression. Has anyone out there experianced this? Is it generally a blown head gasket, or is head cracking common? As always, any help greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave From ingo at waratap.com Thu Jul 11 13:38:24 2002 From: ingo at waratap.com (Ingo D. Rautenberg) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: New RS6 on cover of Autoweek July 15 2002 Edition Message-ID: <00a601c228f9$60d450d0$9865fea9@ingo> Just came in the mail today! Of course, I'm in Detroit, so I get it first ;-) Back left 3/4 view showing rear RS6 emblem and car shard and the background a blur. Title: WARP SPEED Twin-turbo 450-hp Audi RS6 sets luxury performance mark Sorry, haven't read the article yet, but will do so over Lunch! -Ingo '91 200q20v...Slightly modified '83 Urquattro ('90 v8q RIP) http://hometown.aol.com/quattringo/index.html --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 7/1/2002 From ingo at waratap.com Thu Jul 11 13:48:27 2002 From: ingo at waratap.com (Ingo D. Rautenberg) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Compression in cooling References: <115.143eedd5.2a5f0d0a@aol.com> Message-ID: <00ac01c228fa$c8449cb0$9865fea9@ingo> Dave, First thing to check is the cap. I blew up a relatively new expansion tank because the cap wouldn't release the pressure like it was supposed to. If that's not the case, then I'd suspect head gasket leak. Check for oil/coolant contaminattion. Best way to check for coolant contaminiation in oil is in the morning before starting up car. Check oil cap for what looks like a Wendy's frosty underneath (coolant + oil mix). Hopefully, it's just the cap. -Ingo '91 200q20v...Slightly modified '83 Urquattro ('90 v8q RIP) http://hometown.aol.com/quattringo/index.html ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 12:32 PM Subject: Compression in cooling > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Anyone ever run into or had any BTDT with compression in the cooling system. > I just took my first long trip in the 20v, and had a less than good time > during the last 10% of the trip. Somehow exessive pressure is building in > the cooling system which first blew the cap off the overflow tank, then blew > the radiator end cap, finally blew the end off of the electric coolant pump. > The source of the pressure appears to be compression. > Has anyone out there experianced this? Is it generally a blown head gasket, > or is head cracking common? > As always, any help greatly appreciated. > Thanks, > Dave > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 7/1/2002 From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Thu Jul 11 11:04:25 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Compression in cooling In-Reply-To: <115.143eedd5.2a5f0d0a@aol.com> Message-ID: The most likely assumption would be the head gasket. What is the overheating, running without or low coolent recent history? Bernie > From: Djdawson2@aol.com > Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 12:32:10 EDT > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: Compression in cooling > > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Anyone ever run into or had any BTDT with compression in the cooling system. > I just took my first long trip in the 20v, and had a less than good time > during the last 10% of the trip. Somehow exessive pressure is building in > the cooling system which first blew the cap off the overflow tank, then blew > the radiator end cap, finally blew the end off of the electric coolant pump. > The source of the pressure appears to be compression. > Has anyone out there experianced this? Is it generally a blown head gasket, > or is head cracking common? > As always, any help greatly appreciated. > Thanks, > Dave > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From Djdawson2 at aol.com Thu Jul 11 14:05:18 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Compression in cooling Message-ID: <85.1e0bfe46.2a5f14ce@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Thanks Ingo, Unfortunately the cap isn't the culprit. I could start the engine cold, reve it up to around 4k, and watch it immediately release pressure. The pressure was quite obviously not due to heat. The sad part was that it went through so many expensive parts before I realized what had happened. My hope is that it is a head gasket, and not something more serious like a cracked head. I'm wondering if the 20v heads have a tendancy to crack/warp under extreme heat, or if they are fairly tough. Thanks, Dave From ingo at waratap.com Thu Jul 11 18:59:58 2002 From: ingo at waratap.com (Ingo D. Rautenberg) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Compression in cooling References: <85.1e0bfe46.2a5f14ce@aol.com> Message-ID: <001101c22926$4ca2a9e0$9865fea9@ingo> Dave, I figured it out. Your cars are conspiring against you for putting your beautiful black Urq up for sale! You should have known better ;-) These cars like to trade places on the love/hate relationship thang. -Ingo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 1:05 PM Subject: Re: Compression in cooling > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Thanks Ingo, > Unfortunately the cap isn't the culprit. I could start the engine cold, reve > it up to around 4k, and watch it immediately release pressure. The pressure > was quite obviously not due to heat. The sad part was that it went through > so many expensive parts before I realized what had happened. > > My hope is that it is a head gasket, and not something more serious like a > cracked head. I'm wondering if the 20v heads have a tendancy to crack/warp > under extreme heat, or if they are fairly tough. > Thanks, > Dave > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 7/1/2002 From Djdawson2 at aol.com Thu Jul 11 19:15:24 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Fwd: Compression in cooling Message-ID: <8a.1b253d9c.2a5f5d7c@aol.com> -- -- From: Djdawson2@aol.com Full-name: Djdawson2 Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2002 18:13:24 EDT Subject: Re: Compression in cooling To: ingo@waratap.com X-Plaintext: Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Ingo, But how did the 200 actually know I was going to do this?? Must have ESP. Besides, urqs aren't quick to sell... it's by no means gone yet! I was about to dump that 20v into a deep canyon yesterday. 200 miles in 8 hours. Fill it with water, run it 'til hot, stop and let it cool, fill it, then another 20 miles. Ugh... all this with the heat on full blast. It was a long day. Dave From Bayviewtom at cs.com Fri Jul 12 02:36:23 2002 From: Bayviewtom at cs.com (Bayviewtom@cs.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Why Can't I sell my 200 20V? Message-ID: Dear friends, I knew from the get go that this was strictly a niche car, but I am having a real tough time selling my car. I have had it on e-bay three times, albeit the first two I was unable to get pics to accompany my ad. Third time around, I was able to find a web host that finally got my pics online. So far I've gotten 600 hits on my page, yet not a single bid. I've answered e-mails, all saying they are "waiting to see what happens" with the bidding. Well, nothing is happening, and there's just three days to go. If you could, go on e-bay, read my ad, and tell me if there is something wrong with it. My reserve price is $6,500 BTW. Any input/advice would be really appreciated. Tom From tgsgronback at mindspring.com Fri Jul 12 08:13:00 2002 From: tgsgronback at mindspring.com (Steve Gronback) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: insurance Message-ID: <000a01c22995$288584a0$6580f7a5@tgs1> >Amica Mutual Insurance Company.... >I've always been treated fairly... been paid promptly... and >never even thought that they would non-renew me. ditto....two major wrecks (both front end meets deer), and absolutely no hassle from Amica... the second time they gave me the option of totaling the car and gettting $7500. plus the car....this was generous compared to what it actually cost for repairs... From brett at cloud9.net Fri Jul 12 12:06:19 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Why Can't I sell my 200 20V? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 1:36 AM -0400 7/12/02, Bayviewtom@cs.com wrote: >I knew from the get go that this was strictly a niche car, but I am having a >real tough time selling my car. I have had it on e-bay three times, albeit >the first two I was unable to get pics to accompany my ad. Third time around, >I was able to find a web host that finally got my pics online. > >So far I've gotten 600 hits on my page, yet not a single bid. I've answered >e-mails, all saying they are "waiting to see what happens" with the bidding. >Well, nothing is happening, and there's just three days to go. Did you use the classifieds section of the Audifans site? Sometimes people put in listings pointing to their auction. B -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From dans at audifans.com Fri Jul 12 12:29:23 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: group purchase ending soon Message-ID: <3D2EF5D3.37C2F269@audifans.com> Status page is at http://www.audifans.com/gp.html. Current tally is: - 4 sets 200 eurolights - 8 complete sets Bilstein HD, 1 set rears only - 4 complete sets Bilstein Sports - 1 set eibach springs - 1 set 200 H&R - 1 set S6 H&R Anyone wanting in should hop in soon, I want to use the numbers above to get pricing and I will announce details shortly thereafter. Thanks. | Dan | From dans at audifans.com Fri Jul 12 12:49:19 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: how do the front speakers come out? Message-ID: <3D2EFA7F.47379CF7@audifans.com> In an avant, how do the top dash speakers come out? From above, or below? Got my Aiwa radio in the mail yesterday (via Returnbuy on ebay, great deal) and I'll probably tackle this at some point over the weekend. From Cody.Payne at bconnected.com Wed Jul 10 09:59:32 2002 From: Cody.Payne at bconnected.com (Cody Payne) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Re: Bilstein ? Message-ID: <7FC6F040B9BC89438554CC8CE60DA34C3F504B@exchangebox.is.covaleo.com> Dan, On the rear Bilstein Sports I have part number: B46-2066, rear per Jimmy Pribble from urs4.com at: http://www.urs4.com/technical/suspension.html#H&R Maybe a newer number for the rear sport shocks? Anyone know? I just ordered the H&R Springs (29921) and Bilstein Sport Shocks (BILP36-0369, front), (BILB46-2066, rear) from shox.com shipped for $797 from my 1992 UrS4. cp -----Original Message----- From: Dan Simoes [mailto:dans@audifans.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 8:27 AM To: Freed, David (Exchange) Cc: 'Chewy4000@aol.com'; '200q20v List'; s-cars Subject: [s-cars] Re: Bilstein ? > Stock Ride Height (HD shocks) > > P36-0370 Front > > BE5-2593 Rear > > Lowered Ride Height (Sport shocks) > > P36-0369 Front > > B46-2065 Rear Something must be mixed up here. I have a listing for HDs of: >bilstein rear B46-2065 >bilstein front P36-0370 Confirmed by bilstein.com. I am still trying to organize a group purchase of these. Let me know if you want in... _______________________________________________ S-CAR-List mailing list S-CAR-List@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list From agaidos at got.net Wed Jul 10 18:52:50 2002 From: agaidos at got.net (Gaidos, A.) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: '90 V8 Turbogas fit '91 200q? Message-ID: All, I've read that the Boge Turbogas struts for the 1990 V8 are the same as/or fit the 1991 200tq 20v. How many have confirmed this? Thanks Anton From dan at magnitude-electronics.com Thu Jul 11 15:53:25 2002 From: dan at magnitude-electronics.com (Dan Hamren) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: RE '90 V8 Turbogas fit '91 200q? Message-ID: <00e801c22925$631710e0$cce6a8c0@kevinnew> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Part Description: Front Strut Inserts, TurboGas Brand Name: Sachs Boge (OE) Part Number 32402F Qty 2 List Price $ 123.60 YOUR Price $ 57.20 Total $ 114.40 YOU Save $ 132.80 (53.72%) Part Description: Rear Shocks, TurboGas Brand Name: Sachs Boge (OE) Part Number 32115F Qty 2 List Price $ 211.00 YOUR Price $ 88.40 Total $ 176.80 YOU Save $ 245.20 (58.10%) If this does not come out Front part number 32402F rear 32115F $114.40 for the front pair $176.80 for the rear pair. this is for the BOGE turbogas on my V8 did the job 2 months ago... Dan Hamren Redwood City CA 1990 Audi V8 Quattro Pearl (His) 1996 Audi A6 Avant Q Pearl (Hers) 1988 Range Rover 3.5l ARB Billstein "If everything seems under control, Your just not going fast enough" Mario Andretti -- From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Fri Jul 12 13:44:13 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: how do the front speakers come out? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] You gotta pop off the grilles with a small flat screw driver stuck in between the vent and the grille. The grilles start right after the vents. The vents are not part of the grille so don't try prying these cuz you'll brake them. Dan ----Original Message Follows---- From: Dan Simoes To: 200 20v <200q20v@audifans.com> Subject: how do the front speakers come out? Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:49:19 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from [64.205.178.107] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id MHotMailBEF8480B001B4004325440CDB26BD6170; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 09:00:13 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id DC6C046C; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:02:58 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid E8CFA4A8; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 12:02:56 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 80FAC48A; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:52:50 -0400 (EDT) Received: from audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id BA9CB492for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:52:49 -0400 (EDT) From pjrose at frontiernet.net Fri Jul 12 14:23:12 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Oh ye of little faith (including me)... Message-ID: ...probably thought you'd +never+ see the day that Audi of America would issue a real, honest to Gosch RECALL NOTIFICATION!!! Mine arrived today: "Safety Recall LM", which descibes the "problem" of the amplified Bose rear speakers and announces a program of replacement with "new amplifiers for the rear speaker assemblies." "Please contact the service department of your authorized Audi dealer and schedule an appointment...The necessary work will take approximately one hour...yadda, yadda...at no cost to you." Oh yes, and AoA goes on to say the following: "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred "out of pocket" expenses for a rear speaker amplifier replacement...for possible reimbursement." Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From jeremyp at mindspring.com Fri Jul 12 11:39:49 2002 From: jeremyp at mindspring.com (Jeremy Palenchar) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Oh ye of little faith (including me)... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <005601c229cb$1f8190c0$7001000a@palencj> HAHAHA! I am putting in the new Sony deck,changer,amp,and speakers *today*. "Ironincal" ;) -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Phil Rose Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 10:23 AM To: 200q20V mailing list Subject: Oh ye of little faith (including me)... ...probably thought you'd +never+ see the day that Audi of America would issue a real, honest to Gosch RECALL NOTIFICATION!!! Mine arrived today: "Safety Recall LM", which descibes the "problem" of the amplified Bose rear speakers and announces a program of replacement with "new amplifiers for the rear speaker assemblies." "Please contact the service department of your authorized Audi dealer and schedule an appointment...The necessary work will take approximately one hour...yadda, yadda...at no cost to you." Oh yes, and AoA goes on to say the following: "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred "out of pocket" expenses for a rear speaker amplifier replacement...for possible reimbursement." Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From dans at audifans.com Fri Jul 12 15:12:15 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: how do the front speakers come out? References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020712120746.0379ad10@millcity.cisco.com> <4.3.2.7.2.20020712133756.01d556f0@millcity.cisco.com> Message-ID: <3D2F1BFF.A4E53C50@audifans.com> I got it. The grilles just pry up. Good tip - the vent does NOT pry up, only the mesh part. Looks like 3.5" speakers in there. What are the chances I can shoehorn a 4"? I have a nice pair of oddball JBL GTI 4" components (all in one frame though) that I'd like to use. On the rear speakers, I may try just bypassing the amps first and seeing how they sound. From brett at cloud9.net Fri Jul 12 15:53:39 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: unlikely fans in unlikely places Message-ID: So I'm in Smalltown-USA New York, enjoying the nice evening on the hotel porch while waiting for my client to pick me up for dinner. Two high school aged kids are riding around on their bikes in the mostly empty strip of parking in the center of the main drag in town, and one of them takes note of(at first I thought) my wheels, swinging by the side of the car and studying it closely. I think nothing more of it; he's probably just looking at the rims. ...until I hear: "Dude. That's a '91" Whaaaaa!?!!?! That catches my attention, and I notice the other kid's reaction when he sees the plates("200q20v"). I realize the kid who swung by the car wasn't checking out the rims...he was looking for UFOs. I'm in farm country, where everything either has a bowtie or a blue oval on the grille, driving one a maybe-1,500-of-its-kind German car...and two highschool kids know EXACTLY what it is? Wild :-) Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From djb at multiverse.com Fri Jul 12 16:15:52 2002 From: djb at multiverse.com (Dean Bredenbeck) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Oh ye of little faith (including me)... References: Message-ID: <3D2F2AE8.9080902@multiverse.com> Is anyone else getting stonewalled by AoA on this? The customer advocates at 1-800-822-2834 are saying "Safety Recall LM" hasn't been released yet and won't confirm the problem it addresses. Dealer (Stoddard's) apparently accesses the same database and doesn't know anything about it either. After 6-months, I'm suddenly impatient about my disconnected rear speakers... Phil Rose wrote: > ...probably thought you'd +never+ see the day that Audi of America > would issue a real, honest to Gosch RECALL NOTIFICATION!!! > > Mine arrived today: "Safety Recall LM", which descibes the "problem" > of the amplified Bose rear speakers and announces a program of > replacement with "new amplifiers for the rear speaker assemblies." > > "Please contact the service department of your authorized Audi dealer > and schedule an appointment...The necessary work will take > approximately one hour...yadda, yadda...at no cost to you." > > Oh yes, and AoA goes on to say the following: > > "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred "out of > pocket" expenses for a rear speaker amplifier replacement...for > possible reimbursement." > > Phil > > -- > > Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA > '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) > '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > Dean Bredenbeck Cleveland, OH '91 200q20v (138 Kmiles, Tornado red) '86 Porsche 951 (150Kmiles) -- ------------- Dean Bredenbeck 216-251-6835 --------------- From dak at rochester.rr.com Fri Jul 12 16:30:46 2002 From: dak at rochester.rr.com (DAK) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Oh ye of little faith (including me)... References: <3D2F2AE8.9080902@multiverse.com> Message-ID: <3D2F2E66.9020800@rochester.rr.com> The local dealer in Rochester (Holtz) just got the letter about it yesterday, but doesn't know when it will receive parts. I've been told to call back next week (which I will). David Dean Bredenbeck wrote: > Is anyone else getting stonewalled by AoA on this? The customer > advocates at 1-800-822-2834 are saying "Safety Recall LM" hasn't been > released yet and won't confirm the problem it addresses. Dealer > (Stoddard's) apparently accesses the same database and doesn't know > anything about it either. > > After 6-months, I'm suddenly impatient about my disconnected rear > speakers... > > Phil Rose wrote: > >> ...probably thought you'd +never+ see the day that Audi of America >> would issue a real, honest to Gosch RECALL NOTIFICATION!!! >> >> Mine arrived today: "Safety Recall LM", which descibes the "problem" >> of the amplified Bose rear speakers and announces a program of >> replacement with "new amplifiers for the rear speaker assemblies." >> >> "Please contact the service department of your authorized Audi dealer >> and schedule an appointment...The necessary work will take >> approximately one hour...yadda, yadda...at no cost to you." >> >> Oh yes, and AoA goes on to say the following: >> >> "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred "out of >> pocket" expenses for a rear speaker amplifier replacement...for >> possible reimbursement." >> >> Phil >> >> -- >> >> Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA >> '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) >> '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) >> mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> 200q20v mailing list >> 200q20v@audifans.com >> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >> >> > Dean Bredenbeck Cleveland, OH > '91 200q20v (138 Kmiles, Tornado red) > '86 Porsche 951 (150Kmiles) > > -- > > ------------- Dean Bredenbeck 216-251-6835 --------------- > > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > From wolff at turboquattro.com Fri Jul 12 13:28:24 2002 From: wolff at turboquattro.com (wolff@turboquattro.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: unlikely fans in unlikely places References: Message-ID: <001901c229da$4a0ef9e0$6401a8c0@lexx> Must be a listers kid.... Wolff "Nobody can forget the sound." - Michele Mouton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brett Dikeman" To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Cc: Sent: Friday, July 12, 2002 11:53 AM Subject: unlikely fans in unlikely places > So I'm in Smalltown-USA New York, enjoying the nice evening on the > hotel porch while waiting for my client to pick me up for dinner. > > Two high school aged kids are riding around on their bikes in the > mostly empty strip of parking in the center of the main drag in town, > and one of them takes note of(at first I thought) my wheels, swinging > by the side of the car and studying it closely. I think nothing more > of it; he's probably just looking at the rims. > > ...until I hear: > > "Dude. That's a '91" > > Whaaaaa!?!!?! > > That catches my attention, and I notice the other kid's reaction when > he sees the plates("200q20v"). I realize the kid who swung by the > car wasn't checking out the rims...he was looking for UFOs. > > I'm in farm country, where everything either has a bowtie or a blue > oval on the grille, driving one a maybe-1,500-of-its-kind German > car...and two highschool kids know EXACTLY what it is? Wild :-) > > Brett > -- > ---- > "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary > safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin > http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ > http://www.apple.com/switch/ > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From malth at umich.edu Fri Jul 12 16:52:29 2002 From: malth at umich.edu (Chris Covington) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: unlikely fans in unlikely places In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Where in NY were you Brett? If it was near New Paltz / Woodstock, it wouldn't surprise me too much. There are a lot of Audi fans around there. Cov On Fri, 12 Jul 2002, Brett Dikeman wrote: > So I'm in Smalltown-USA New York, enjoying the nice evening on the > hotel porch while waiting for my client to pick me up for dinner. > > Two high school aged kids are riding around on their bikes in the > mostly empty strip of parking in the center of the main drag in town, > and one of them takes note of(at first I thought) my wheels, swinging > by the side of the car and studying it closely. I think nothing more > of it; he's probably just looking at the rims. > > ...until I hear: > > "Dude. That's a '91" > > Whaaaaa!?!!?! > > That catches my attention, and I notice the other kid's reaction when > he sees the plates("200q20v"). I realize the kid who swung by the > car wasn't checking out the rims...he was looking for UFOs. > > I'm in farm country, where everything either has a bowtie or a blue > oval on the grille, driving one a maybe-1,500-of-its-kind German > car...and two highschool kids know EXACTLY what it is? Wild :-) > > Brett > -- > ---- > "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary > safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin > http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ > http://www.apple.com/switch/ > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Fri Jul 12 16:05:42 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Distributor GP, shaft seal Message-ID: Now that I have a 20V distributor without a drive gear attached, part of my current gear GP inspection, I have removed the shaft from the housing to check on Bosch's shaft sealing system. There is no shaft sealing component used in this distributor! That portion of the shaft running in the upper (outer) half of the upper bushing has a reverse spirol groove that acts as a pump to move oil down the shaft/bushing interface, rather than into the distributor body. Further, the 2" length between upper and lower bushings is filled with a felt wicking and this area has a drain hole on the bottom side allowing excess oil to drain back into the cam area in the head. Conclusion: Anyone having oil accumulation problems in his distributor will not solve it by replacing distributors, but will by solving his crank case pressurization problem. My 3 distributors are dry of oil accumulations. Bernie From brett at cloud9.net Fri Jul 12 15:53:39 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: unlikely fans in unlikely places Message-ID: So I'm in Smalltown-USA New York, enjoying the nice evening on the hotel porch while waiting for my client to pick me up for dinner. Two high school aged kids are riding around on their bikes in the mostly empty strip of parking in the center of the main drag in town, and one of them takes note of(at first I thought) my wheels, swinging by the side of the car and studying it closely. I think nothing more of it; he's probably just looking at the rims. ...until I hear: "Dude. That's a '91" Whaaaaa!?!!?! That catches my attention, and I notice the other kid's reaction when he sees the plates("200q20v"). I realize the kid who swung by the car wasn't checking out the rims...he was looking for UFOs. I'm in farm country, where everything either has a bowtie or a blue oval on the grille, driving one a maybe-1,500-of-its-kind German car...and two highschool kids know EXACTLY what it is? Wild :-) Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From termite at rocketmail.com Fri Jul 12 18:02:20 2002 From: termite at rocketmail.com (jim catterson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: cross country car transport questions Message-ID: <20020713000220.12516.qmail@web12308.mail.yahoo.com> have been lurking on the list for awhile now and just agreed to buy a 20v avant in san francisco. the only problem is the my schedule does not permit me to drive it back to ny at this time. does anyone have any experience w/ car shippers and have any recommendations? TIA ===== cheers jim catterson __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Sat Jul 13 00:46:00 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: how do the front speakers come out? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Dan, 4 inch speakers "will" fit in there but it's a pain. I've done it before in one of my previous 20V's. Now I'm on my third 20V and I tried fitting the s= ame type of speakers again but unfI ended up damaging them. I need to buy some = new 4 inchers and this time I will take the dash cover off when I do this (not = too hard). Depth wise you might have some problems especially on the right hand side since there are some wires going around there but you can move them out of the way. It's really a lot easier to do with the dash cover removed. The wood trim does not have to come off. There are holes to acces the allen scr= ews. Anyways, point is that they will fit and if you need some detailed info on = how to remove the dash cover just e-mail me and I'll be happy to help you. Regards, Dan ----Original Message Follows---- From: Dan Simoes To: Peter Schulz , 200 20v <200q20v@audifans.com> Subject: Re: how do the front speakers come out? Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:12:15 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from www.audifans.com ([64.205.178.107]) by mc1-f12.law16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Fri, 12 Jul 2002 11:17:49 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id DA626303; Fri, 12 = Jul 2002 14:20:59 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid B45162C7; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:20:57 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 525A82C7; Fri, 12 = Jul 2002 14:15:15 -0400 (EDT) Received: from audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 95A752C1; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 14:15:14 -0400 (EDT) Delivered-To: 200q20v@audifans.com Message-ID: <3D2F1BFF.A4E53C50@audifans.com> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.79 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U) X-Accept-Language: en References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020712120746.0379ad10@millcity.cisco.com> <4.3.2.7= .2.20020712133756.01d556f0@millcity.cisco.com> Sender: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com Errors-To: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-BeenThere: 200q20v@audifans.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.8 Precedence: bulk List-Unsubscribe: , List-Id: 200q20v list <200q20v.audifans.com> List-Post: List-Help: List-Subscribe: , List-Archive: Return-Path: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-OriginalArrivalTime: 12 Jul 2002 18:17:52.0450 (UTC) FILETIME=3D[6FBEB220:01C229D0] I got it. The grilles just pry up. Good tip - the vent does NOT pry up, only the mesh part. Looks like 3.5" speakers in there. What are the chances I can shoehorn a 4"? I have a nice pair of oddball JBL GTI 4" components (all in one frame though) that I'd like to use. On the rear speakers, I may try just bypassing the amps first and seeing how they sound. _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= --- Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here[1] =3D=3D=3DReferences:=3D=3D=3D 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c157??PI=3D44364 From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Sat Jul 13 01:08:13 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: cross country car transport questions Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I had one of my 20V's shipped once. It was from Texas to Maryland. And I had a Cabriolet shipped over from Florida too. I used Able Auto Transport because they have cheap reates and it made it affordable. They don't have thier own trucks, they're brokers. This one company they got for me to ship the 20V damaged the car. The driver of the truck lowered the cars on the top and crunched the roof of my car. Eventually they paid for it but it wasn't easy. The second time I used them I had to wait for like 3 weeks only to be switched to another company and then wait another week or so to actually receive the car. So, if you want to go cheap go with them but make sure the car is insured first for peace of mind. If you want to check them out the website is www.ableautotransport.com[1] Dan B. ----Original Message Follows---- From: jim catterson To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: cross country car transport questions Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:02:20 -0700 (PDT) MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from www.audifans.com ([64.205.178.107]) by mc2-f10.law16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:05:43 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 993B4463; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:10:49 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 6F8E2262; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:10:48 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id D570F45E; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:05:12 -0400 (EDT) Received: from web12308.mail.yahoo.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with SMTP id 68BF1262for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 20:05:12 -0400 (EDT) Received: from [24.187.66.74] by web12308.mail.yahoo.com via HTTP; Fri, 12 Jul 2002 17:02:20 PDT Delivered-To: 200q20v@audifans.com Message-ID: <20020713000220.12516.qmail@web12308.mail.yahoo.com> Sender: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com Errors-To: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-BeenThere: 200q20v@audifans.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.8 Precedence: bulk List-Unsubscribe: , List-Id: 200q20v list <200q20v.audifans.com> List-Post: List-Help: List-Subscribe: , List-Archive: Return-Path: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-OriginalArrivalTime: 13 Jul 2002 00:05:45.0643 (UTC) FILETIME=[09232FB0:01C22A01] have been lurking on the list for awhile now and just agreed to buy a 20v avant in san francisco. the only problem is the my schedule does not permit me to drive it back to ny at this time. does anyone have any experience w/ car shippers and have any recommendations? TIA ===== cheers jim catterson __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[2] ===References:=== 1. http://www.ableautotransport.com 2. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 From gregsj2 at attbi.com Sat Jul 13 18:26:23 2002 From: gregsj2 at attbi.com (Greg Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Radiator Replacement Message-ID: <3D30C52F.2020306@attbi.com> 20020v Crew, As you are no doubt aware the plastic radiators on our cars usually have a problem as they get old where the upper radiator hose outlet gets fragile and snaps off (over tightening the radiator hose clamp can make this occur as well). Mine chose this record weekend (100+ degrees) to head south. I'm currently riding around with several gallons of water in milk jugs and I reload whenever necessary. Preference. When I was thinking about upgrading my intercooler, one of the problems was the auxiliary radiator, which is in the way. Has anyone added a larger volume radiator in the existing spot (thicker?) so as to eliminate the need to the aux rad and therefore have more room for a larger IC? Costs? Fallback. On CJM's excellent 200 website, George Sidman mentioned he repaced his broken radiator with a an all new metal one from Modine. Has anyone else gone this route? Does anyone have a part # and contact information for Modine? Costs? Looking forward to some rousing input on an issue that likely, eventually, effect all of us. Greg J BIRA.ORG From Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com Sat Jul 13 22:50:59 2002 From: Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com (Vincenzo Basile) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: purge valve Message-ID: <001401c22ad8$f0c2dc80$1ff3c243@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] hey list, does anybody know what the part # for the canisterpurge valve is?I have the= ETKA but cannot find it on there unless it's called something else.Also wo= uld one fit from a 10v?I am trying to find this info because all the suppli= ers I've called do not stock this item,but said they could get it for me if= I had the part # Also one other question,will there be a good array of Au= di's at the waterfest next week? -- From vanz9646 at uidaho.edu Fri Jul 12 16:43:17 2002 From: vanz9646 at uidaho.edu (Joseph VanZeipel) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Thank the Audi Gods!! Message-ID: Well, I sent my 200q to the mechanic because I just couldn't find out what was causing the annoying vibration. Turns out it was a blown valve cover, allowing oil to seep into (mainly) #5 cylinder and caused it to not spark very well. I tell him "great" and all is well. Until I get a call today, the timing belt was NEVER CHANGED!! I bought the car at 101k under the assumption that all service was up to date, but now at 122k, he calls to tell me that the timing belt has more cracks than a nudist convention!! He said that he can guarantee that it is the original timing belt and it was 32k over due for a change. I went to take a look and I can't believe it held together! I feel like buying a lotto ticket or something. Joseph Vanzeipel 200q20v 122k, original timing belt From agaidos at got.net Sat Jul 13 20:19:27 2002 From: agaidos at got.net (Gaidos, A.) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice Message-ID: All, Just got a notice in the mail that Audi will be replacing the Bose rear speakers in my wife's '91 200. About time! Anton From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Jul 14 00:17:21 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Radiator Replacement In-Reply-To: <3D30C52F.2020306@attbi.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020713231443.00c5ce80@traverse.com> -- Recent postings indicate that all-metal radiators no longer are available. I believe you'll find that those radiators required modification to provide outlets for the auxiliary radiator anyway. There have been some postings about leaving off the auxiliary radiator, but those who've reported doing this also live in areas where the temperatures remain in two digits. At 05:26 PM 07/13/2002 -0700, Greg Johnson wrote: >20020v Crew, > >As you are no doubt aware the plastic radiators on our cars usually have >a problem as they get old where the upper radiator hose outlet gets >fragile and snaps off (over tightening the radiator hose clamp can make >this occur as well). Mine chose this record weekend (100+ degrees) to >head south. I'm currently riding around with several gallons of water >in milk jugs and I reload whenever necessary. > >Preference. > >When I was thinking about upgrading my intercooler, one of the problems >was the auxiliary radiator, which is in the way. Has anyone added a >larger volume radiator in the existing spot (thicker?) so as to >eliminate the need to the aux rad and therefore have more room for a >larger IC? Costs? > >Fallback. > >On CJM's excellent 200 website, George Sidman mentioned he repaced his >broken radiator with a an all new metal one from Modine. Has anyone >else gone this route? Does anyone have a part # and contact information >for Modine? Costs? > >Looking forward to some rousing input on an issue that likely, >eventually, effect all of us. > >Greg J >BIRA.ORG > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > -- From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Jul 14 00:21:56 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020713232006.00c5d100@traverse.com> -- Mine came in today's mail too. I'm betting my local dealer won't have repair parts for weeks. My notice says it applies to 1991 and later 100, 200 and V8 models with the BOSE radio. I'm wondering about our '90 V8 with the Delta radio. I thought the speakers in both systems were the same. At 07:19 PM 07/13/2002 -0700, Gaidos, A. wrote: >All, > Just got a notice in the mail that Audi will be replacing the Bose rear >speakers in my wife's '91 200. About time! >Anton > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Sun Jul 14 01:35:12 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: about that bypass valve Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] What do you people recommend as far as an aftermarket metal bypass valve is concerned? I posted about this before but got nothing. Can any of you help me? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=44364 From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Sun Jul 14 01:40:19 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Have any of you imported a car yet? I need help Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I was wondering if any of you have experience in importing a car over from Europe. I need to find out exactly what is involved and what the costs are. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if it makes a difference or not but the car I am talking about is an RS2. Has anyone brought one of these to the states yet? Anyone know? Would it be the only one? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 From pjrose at frontiernet.net Sun Jul 14 09:01:15 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020713232006.00c5d100@traverse.com> References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020713232006.00c5d100@traverse.com> Message-ID: At 11:21 PM -0400 7/13/02, Kneale Brownson wrote: >-- >Mine came in today's mail too. I'm betting my local dealer won't have >repair parts for weeks. My notice says it applies to 1991 and later 100, >200 and V8 models with the BOSE radio. I'm wondering about our '90 V8 with >the Delta radio. I thought the speakers in both systems were the same. Recall notice says it applies to "...vehicles equipped with 'Bose Music Systems'" It's the speakers that define this, and the particular head unit that is presently installed shouldn't matter. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Sun Jul 14 06:36:42 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I supose that the details of the exchange will require the return of the old speakers. Most of us have junked these by now. Bernie > From: Phil Rose > Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 08:01:15 -0400 > To: Kneale Brownson > Cc: "Gaidos, A." , "Quattro" , "Audi20V > List" , "200q20v List" <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Re: Bose speaker recall notice > > At 11:21 PM -0400 7/13/02, Kneale Brownson wrote: >> -- >> Mine came in today's mail too. I'm betting my local dealer won't have >> repair parts for weeks. My notice says it applies to 1991 and later 100, >> 200 and V8 models with the BOSE radio. I'm wondering about our '90 V8 with >> the Delta radio. I thought the speakers in both systems were the same. > > Recall notice says it applies to > "...vehicles equipped with 'Bose Music Systems'" > > It's the speakers that define this, and the particular head unit that > is presently installed shouldn't matter. > > Phil > -- From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Jul 14 10:05:31 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020714090233.00c5b160@traverse.com> -- At 05:36 AM 07/14/2002 -0700, Bernie Benz wrote: >I supose that the details of the exchange will require the return of the old >speakers. Most of us have junked these by now. > >Bernie There is a procedure outlined in the mailing for dealing with folks who've had "out-of-pocket" expenses related to the failed speakers prior to the recall. Audi says to mail them copies of the receipts for speaker replacements. -- From pjrose at frontiernet.net Sun Jul 14 10:25:00 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 5:36 AM -0700 7/14/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >I supose that the details of the exchange will require the return of the old >speakers. Most of us have junked these by now. Unfortunately, the recall speaks in terms of installing new amplifiers for the rear speaker assemblies (as distinct from replacing the entire speaker units). So, one way or another you need your rear Bose speakers to take advantage of this. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From jbeer at BooseCasey.com Sun Jul 14 13:17:52 2002 From: jbeer at BooseCasey.com (Beer, Jerald) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Radiator replacement Message-ID: Greg When mine let go about 700 miles from home I went to a specialty rad repair shop. They matched up identical metal rad except for aux rad fitting. He had a huge book of all types of rads. They simply welded aux rad fitting on. Don't know about present availability as this was 3-4 years ago. I suggest a specialty rad shop as this is all they do. HTH Regards, Jerry 91 200qa From Gabo at maffia.hu Sun Jul 14 20:45:32 2002 From: Gabo at maffia.hu (=?iso-8859-2?Q?Endr=F5di_G=E1bor?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: purge valve In-Reply-To: <001401c22ad8$f0c2dc80$1ff3c243@oemcomputer> References: <001401c22ad8$f0c2dc80$1ff3c243@oemcomputer> Message-ID: The number is: 034-133-517 It is in the MainGroup1 Sub Grup 33 15-90 picture I think -- Gab? From t44tq at mindspring.com Sun Jul 14 17:28:25 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Boost Levels with a Chipped Car Message-ID: <000a01c22b75$01ff9410$0d42fea9@newpc> Listers, What kind of boost levels are you seeing with your chipped cars? After finally installing an analog boost gauge (VDO Vision Series) and an air/fuel meter in the a-pillar, I'm seeing 19psi peak, with the boost shooting up to 15psi and then gradually making its way to 19- is this normal behavior? Boost also tapers off back to about 14-15 psi as I approach redline. Any effects of heat soak readily seen? At this past weekend's LRP DE w/ the PCA, I was seeing boost levels of only 15psi down the front straight late in the day, I'm thinking that was due to heat soak, as I was on the throttle a lot and running at high rpm all day long. I haven't yet hooked up the a/f meter, so no results on that just yet. BTW, I have to extract the necessary parts from Igor Kessel's list of parts- I used an Autometer boost gauge install kit as part of my installation, but could not find an appropriate fitting to mate the 1/8" OD nylon tubing w/ the OEM 3.5mm cloth-covered vacuum hose- I used a brass t-fitting to feed off of the ECU line, but had to really get ghetto by cutting a piece of cloth hose for the gauge side of the T, insert the nylon hose into the cloth hose and then use 3 pinch clamps to seal everything up. That's really ghetto, although it's holding up for now. Taka From nhvonhof at attbi.com Sun Jul 14 21:53:13 2002 From: nhvonhof at attbi.com (Neil Vonhof) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: [Fwd: Re: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1023 - 11 msgs] Message-ID: <3D324729.76FA35E3@attbi.com> Found a wire unplugged. Two wires blue/black and red/blue (or maybe red/black) go to a sensor located directly above the passenger side front axle on the trans/axle case. In reaching down there I pulled both wires off. Question #1: What sensor is this? Question #2: Which wire goes on which spade connector on the sensor? I'm hoping that it doesn't matter which wire goes on which. Any help is greatly appreciated. Neil Vonhof Seattle '91 200q20v Sedan, 140,000 miles From SuffolkD at aol.com Mon Jul 15 01:34:23 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200 Avant on Storrow Drive Message-ID: <181.afc21af.2a63aacf@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Thumbs up to 200 Avant on Storrow Drive Sat with CT tags 861&&& Lister? - Scott in BOSTON From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Mon Jul 15 02:13:56 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Do A4 bypass valves fit 200's? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I've seen various bypass valves for A4's from Stratmosphere, Forge, Bailey and Turbo eXcess and they all make valves for A4's. From the pictures I've seen they look to be the right fit. Is this true? Will they work on our cars? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Mon Jul 15 02:53:53 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: why is my car hesitating? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I got an annoying situation over here. If I don't get help quick and be able to solve this, I might have to go to some more drastic measures, like, setting this thing on fire or something. Anyways, thing is this: my car likes to hesitate. Besides all the obvious stuff like leaky hoses and messed up bypass valves what could this be? The car runs ok but it just hesitates, like it holds back or something instead of pushing forward. It's not so bad that it makes the car shake when this happens but almost. Almost feels like it doesn't get gas smoothly. I can get the car up to 1.7 bar almost all the time although I've never seen 1.8 but it just feels slow. It's not chipped or anything and I know I got the right spark plugs and I looked over all the hoses and I'm pretty sure the bypass valve and the frequency valve is good. I don't know about the whole, messed up distributor thing but I'm not sure it would cause this to happen. So what do you guys think I should look for? I've been putting this off but it's getting real anoying driving this thing. Please help me. Thank you all in advance ( I sure hope I get some help) Dan B. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Mon Jul 15 11:44:46 2002 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Do A4 bypass valves fit 200's? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, 15 Jul 2002 01:13:56 -0400, you wrote: >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] >I've seen various bypass valves for A4's from Stratmosphere, Forge, Bailey and >Turbo eXcess and they all make valves for A4's. From the pictures I've seen >they look to be the right fit. Is this true? Will they work on our cars? I'm not sure, but I think so, as the factory installed Bosch valve on the 2.2T, 1.8T and 2.7TT is the same.. -- E. Spangen '90 Audi 200TQ 20v From jaycnoyes at hotmail.com Mon Jul 15 05:58:25 2002 From: jaycnoyes at hotmail.com (jay noyes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Loss of gas mileage Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] What does the correct blue coolant mean in this note. I have changed the thermostat but still am getting 15/16 gas mileage. Seems to idle kind of rough at cold start has well. Thank you for any help. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jobe Tichy Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:50 PM To: jeremyp@mindspring.com; t44tq@mindspring.com; s-car-list@audifans.com; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: RE: Loss of gas mileage [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Ever since I did the T-stat, "normal" has been PEGGED right at the first "thick" bar (which I guess is the second bar) in the city and on the highway and everywhere else. It goes up a bit when sitting in traffic but never beyond half. I would say it runs 90% on the first thick bar. Before the T-stat, it ran always on the highway on cold sometimes almost never coming up beyond the first bar; and only hitting the first thick bar in the city. I cannot explain it. All I know is post T-stat replacement and addition of the correct blue coolant, my engine temp's been pegged at the first big bar and I've been getting great mileage...PLUS my afterrun system is in sync (which is the most important reason I messed with the T-State in the first place) That's about all for observations. JOBE '91 200tq 20v '84 BMW 318i (modified) >From: "Jeremy Palenchar" >To: "'Jobe Tichy'" , ,, <200q20v@audifans.com> >Subject: RE: Loss of gas mileage >Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 16:56:24 -0700 > >What is "normal" on your temp gauge - around town? On the highway? > >Thanks! > > >-Jeremy > >_______________________________________________ >Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com > >The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer >_______________________________________________ > >-----Original Message----- >From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On >Behalf Of Jobe Tichy >Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 3:41 PM >To: t44tq@mindspring.com; s-car-list@audifans.com; 200q20v@audifans.com >Subject: Re: Loss of gas mileage > > >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > >How's the temp gauge reading? > >I was very suspect of my thermostat when my milage was in the highteens >and the gauge was only in normal operating temperature in the city and >always cool on the highway. Sure enough--now getting mid 20's (normal) > >I have heard these I-5's really depend on a good engine temp for really >good milage. > >Just a thought. > >JOBE TICHY > >'91 200tq 20v > >'84 BMW 318i (modified) > >From: "TM" > >To: "S-Car-List" , <200q20v@audifans.com> > >Subject: Loss of gas mileage > >Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 17:51:56 -0400 > > > >No codes thrown, but my gas mileage has dropped to the mid-teens- got > >19mpg on the highway on a long trip when I usually see 22-24mpg. > > > >Any ideas? > > > >Will A/C use lose me 5mpg? > > > >Taka > > > >_______________________________________________ > >200q20v mailing list > >200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > >------------------------------------------------------------------------ >------ >Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] > >===References:=== > 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM505401/45 > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM505401/46 _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20vGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Jul 15 09:08:16 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Correct Coolant (Was Loss of gas mileage) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020715080501.00d3f230@traverse.com> -- The coolant supplied by your Audi dealer would be Autobahn, which has a blue color. At 04:58 AM 07/15/2002 -0400, jay noyes wrote: >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >What does the correct blue coolant mean in this note. I have changed the >thermostat but still am getting 15/16 gas mileage. Seems to idle kind of >rough at cold start has well. > Thank you for any help. >----- Original Message ----- >From: Jobe Tichy >Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2002 8:50 PM >To: jeremyp@mindspring.com; t44tq@mindspring.com; s-car-list@audifans.com; >200q20v@audifans.com >Subject: RE: Loss of gas mileage > >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > >Ever since I did the T-stat, "normal" has been PEGGED right at the first >"thick" bar (which I guess is the second bar) in the city and on the highway >and everywhere else. It goes up a bit when sitting in traffic but never >beyond half. I would say it runs 90% on the first thick bar. > >Before the T-stat, it ran always on the highway on cold sometimes almost never >coming up beyond the first bar; and only hitting the first thick bar in the >city. > >I cannot explain it. All I know is post T-stat replacement and addition of >the correct blue coolant, my engine temp's been pegged at the first big bar >and I've been getting great mileage...PLUS my afterrun system is in sync >(which is the most important reason I messed with the T-State in the first >place) -- From Chewy4000 at aol.com Mon Jul 15 09:48:51 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Have any of you imported a car yet? I need help Message-ID: <330AFA89.3A4D9F76.022A5BF8@aol.com> In a message dated Sat, 13 Jul 2002 11:40:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, themercedesbenz@hotmail.com writes: > [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > I was wondering if any of you have experience in importing a car over from > Europe. I need to find out exactly what is involved and what the costs are. > Any info would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if it makes a difference > or not but the car I am talking about is an RS2. Has anyone brought one of > these to the states yet? Anyone know? Would it be the only one? This is a email from a pro rally friend of mine, when I asked him about this same question for someone else. This is his Job and hes a big audi guy so ou could ask him better if you like. Let him know Chewy sent you. EPA, DOT and Customs will not let you bring it in for road use unless you go thru all the testing and modifications needed to meet emission, crash and anti theft standards, and to go thru everything will cost you anywhere between 15 and 25 thousand dollars. Forget about it. As the laws stand right now, the only way you can bring a vehicle from abroad is as a race car, and you have to prove it. But even so, you could never title it, register it, or insure it. My suggestion is forget about it, unless you can sell it for 100 grand, it's not worth it. Best regards, Jose M. Vicente DFDS Transport (US), Inc. Export Sea Freight Operations, NYC area 100 Walnut Avenue, Suite 405 Clark, NJ 07066 Tel: 1-732-850-8000 ext 2153 Fax: 1-732-850-8020 www.dantran.com From motogo1 at cox.net Mon Jul 15 09:53:13 2002 From: motogo1 at cox.net (motogo1) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1023 - 11 msgs] References: <3D324729.76FA35E3@attbi.com> Message-ID: <003d01c22c17$ba1678a0$31000e44@ri.cox.net> That would be the backup light switch. Shouldn't matter which wire goes to what spade connector. Gary Martin CT-USA 94 UrS4 91 200 TQA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Vonhof" To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2002 8:53 PM Subject: [Fwd: Re: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1023 - 11 msgs] > Found a wire unplugged. Two wires blue/black and red/blue (or maybe > red/black) go > to a sensor located directly above the passenger side front axle on the > trans/axle > case. In reaching down there I pulled both wires off. Question #1: What > sensor is > this? Question #2: Which wire goes on which spade connector on the > sensor? > I'm hoping that it doesn't matter which wire goes on which. > Any help is greatly appreciated. > Neil Vonhof > Seattle > '91 200q20v Sedan, 140,000 miles > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From Dale at TheMcCormacks.org Mon Jul 15 07:32:20 2002 From: Dale at TheMcCormacks.org (Dale McCormack) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Radiators-the evergreen post... Message-ID: <3D32B2C4.9080600@TheMcCormacks.org> Metal Modine is NLA. I did mine last weekend for $240 from The Parts Connection. Like you, I had screwed the hose back onto the balance of the original flange after the intended 1.5" had broken off. It held on without problem for a couple of weeks of local driving, even w/AC and diluted mix of H20 and anti-freeze. The replacement job took about an hour. Biggest PITA was locating/removing all the lower screws that secure the radiator from the bottem. HTH, Dale From nhvonhof at attbi.com Mon Jul 15 07:31:48 2002 From: nhvonhof at attbi.com (Neil Vonhof) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Do A4 bypass valves fit 200's? References: Message-ID: <3D32CEC4.5919C22E@attbi.com> I emailed Stratmosphere just yesterday with this question. Here is there respnse: We sure do. It is the same for all Audis. Thank you Very Much, Robert Hamme Tech Director Stratmosphere 866 533 1777 (Toll Free) > From: Neil Vonhof > Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 16:35:32 -0700 > To: contact@stratmosphere.com > Subject: Availability? > > Do you have a HyperBoost Valve that works on the 1991 Audi 200 Turbo 20 > valve 5 cyl. engine? > Thanks for your help. > Neil Vonhof > Seattle Eyvind Spangen wrote: > On Mon, 15 Jul 2002 01:13:56 -0400, you wrote: > > >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > >I've seen various bypass valves for A4's from Stratmosphere, Forge, Bailey and > >Turbo eXcess and they all make valves for A4's. From the pictures I've seen > >they look to be the right fit. Is this true? Will they work on our cars? > > I'm not sure, but I think so, as the factory installed Bosch valve on > the 2.2T, 1.8T and 2.7TT is the same.. > > -- > E. Spangen > '90 Audi 200TQ 20v > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From bimmer_dude at hotmail.com Mon Jul 15 16:35:26 2002 From: bimmer_dude at hotmail.com (Jobe Tichy) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: why is my car hesitating? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I know that bad fuel injectors have caused bad hesitation in the nonturbo 20v's out of the 90 I worked with previously. I believe the Bentley has a testing procedure. Maybe same is true with the turboed 20v's especially since turbo engines desperately need fuel. JOBE '91 200tq 20v '84 BMW 318i (modified) >From: "Audi Sport" >To: 200q20v@audifans.com >Subject: why is my car hesitating? >Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 01:53:53 -0400 > >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] >I got an annoying situation over here. If I don't get help quick and be able >to solve this, I might have to go to some more drastic measures, like, setting >this thing on fire or something. Anyways, thing is this: my car likes to >hesitate. Besides all the obvious stuff like leaky hoses and messed up bypass >valves what could this be? The car runs ok but it just hesitates, like it >holds back or something instead of pushing forward. It's not so bad that it >makes the car shake when this happens but almost. Almost feels like it doesn't >get gas smoothly. I can get the car up to 1.7 bar almost all the time although >I've never seen 1.8 but it just feels slow. It's not chipped or anything and I >know I got the right spark plugs and I looked over all the hoses and I'm >pretty sure the bypass valve and the frequency valve is good. I don't know >about the whole, messed up distributor thing but I'm not sure it would cause >this to happen. So what do you guys think I should look for? I've been putting >this off but it's getting real anoying driving this thing. Please help me. > >Thank you all in advance ( I sure hope I get some help) > >Dan B. > >------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] > >===References:=== > 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c156??PI=44364 From crangus at rof.net Mon Jul 15 10:39:25 2002 From: crangus at rof.net (Craig Angus) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Contacting Audi for Safety Recall LM Message-ID: <3.0.32.20020715093923.00d99d10@rof.net> List: Thanks to Kneale forwarding the recall letter from Audi, I contacted them and found got a few things done on the phone. Other owners may want to do the same? If so, here's the contact info: I. Telephone: 1-800-822-2834 Press Option #3 for a "customer advocate" Have your VIN handy Tell them you're calling to: 1. make sure you're the current registered owner of the car 2. make sure the car is eligible for the LM safety recall (which consists of replacing the rear speaker amplifiers, apparently not the speakers). 3. while you're at it you should check to see if there are any safety recalls outstanding (the all have two-letter designations) The gentleman I spoke with was amazed I had heard about the recall as Audi dealers have not yet been notified and won't be for another couple of weeks (according to him). I also found out that the "KF" recall had not been completed on my car which consists of replacing the air bag sensor module. Audi will not mail out any notices for previous recalls and won't mail you anything as an "updated" owner on the LM recall. If you are in the central computer as the owner, the dealer will be able to see all the recalls you're eligible for and happily fix them, right? Anyway, thanks for your help Kneale and I hope this helps someone else out there. Craig in Colorado From Djdawson2 at aol.com Mon Jul 15 12:54:36 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Radiator Replacement Message-ID: <62.22936533.2a644a3c@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Greg, I too just recently (a week ago) had this happen. I would recommend not doing the gallon jug thing for long. Mine occured while on a trip from Denver to LA and back. The result of the cooling system running low was a blown headgasket right next to where the turbo mounts to the EM. Unfortunately, the first thing to go low on coolant is the cyl head... Good luck, Dave From sidman at montereynet.net Mon Jul 15 10:04:44 2002 From: sidman at montereynet.net (George Sidman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: Metal Radiator.......... References: <20020714161024.48D1B4B0@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <3D32F29C.6493498B@montereynet.net> Any good foreign car radiator shop can provide you with a new metal radiator from a number of manufacturers. It will come without the aux radiator nipples. Simply have the shop add two 1" nipples opposite the larger input nipples. The radiator should cost about $165, and the mods about $50. The peace of mind and longetivity - to say nothing of the lesser cost - that comes with a metal radiator is well worth it......... -- George Sidman, President Monterey Network Center sidman@montereynet.net 831. 657. 1500 From SuffolkD at aol.com Mon Jul 15 14:24:33 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:18 2003 Subject: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1040 - 16 msgs Message-ID: <31.29da90ff.2a645f51@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Try the "correct" cap and rotor as well As: New Spark plug wires! -Scott in BOSTON In a message dated 7/15/02 11:57:38 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 200q20v-request@audifans.com writes: > Thank you all in advance ( I sure hope I get some help) > Dan B. > From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Mon Jul 15 20:31:25 2002 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Replacement In-Reply-To: <62.22936533.2a644a3c@aol.com> References: <62.22936533.2a644a3c@aol.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 15 Jul 2002 11:54:36 EDT, you wrote: >I too just recently (a week ago) had this happen. Me too. Last thursday, it popped.. The upper big hose mounting neck cracked. Fortuneately, it happened after I shut the engine down, I guess the pressure went up due to heat soak before the after-run would kick in. A new radiator was $260 here in Europe, not that bad, I think.. -- E. Spangen '90 Audi 200TQ 20v From Djdawson2 at aol.com Mon Jul 15 16:04:59 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Replacement Message-ID: <106.1500d2ff.2a6476db@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 7/15/2002 11:32:31 AM Mountain Daylight Time, eyvind.spangen@c2i.net writes: > A new radiator was $260 here in Europe, not that bad, I > think.. > Well, I would have been happy if my damage had been limited to the radiator. I pulled the top end down this weekend... head gasket blown severely between the cylinder and coolant ports on #2 and #3. I guess that explains the major pressure in the cooling system... On the plus side, I'll be able to perform a bunch of maintenance that is much simpler with the head off. I'm replacing the motor mounts, all coolant hoses, t-stat, timing belt and WP, all vacuum hoses, a distributor with a metal gear, plugs, exhaust manifold studs, RS2 EM (!), hybrid turbo (!!), updated head gasket, and a (I know, idiots only) Raceware stud kit. Radiator and overflow tank go without saying. Should finish up in the next day or two. I think I'll be good for awhile after all this!?! Dave From charlie at istari.com Mon Jul 15 14:33:25 2002 From: charlie at istari.com (Charles Baer) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Metal Radiator.......... Message-ID: <3D332385.1AB6624D@istari.com> $165 is what Boulder Radiator quoted me a few weeks ago. Remains to be seen if that's real since I haven't actually done it yet. Charlie > -----Original Message----- > From: George Sidman [mailto:sidman@montereynet.net] > Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 10:05 AM > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: Re: Metal Radiator.......... > > > Any good foreign car radiator shop can provide you with a new metal > radiator from a number of manufacturers. It will come without the aux > radiator nipples. Simply have the shop add two 1" nipples opposite the > larger input nipples. The radiator should cost about $165, and the > mods about $50. The peace of mind and longetivity - to say nothing of > the lesser cost - that comes with a metal radiator is well worth > it......... > -- > George Sidman, President > Monterey Network Center > sidman@montereynet.net > 831. 657. 1500 > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Mon Jul 15 14:51:33 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice Message-ID: <20020715205133.22724.qmail@web12403.mail.yahoo.com> Does this mean AoA will reimburse the deductables of those who've had their cars totaled from Bose fires? ----------------------------------------------------- "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred "out of pocket" expenses for a rear speaker amplifier replacement...for possible reimbursement." __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From Djdawson2 at aol.com Mon Jul 15 18:13:13 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Metal Radiator.......... Message-ID: <188.ab955fa.2a6494e9@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Seems the radiator is around $220 - 240. I don't think the cost difference will be as big of an issue as that of all the strange mounting points. Five bolts hold the fan housing on the engine bay side of the radiator, and two bolts and an interlocking method hold the condenser in place. Then there's that little arm for the top of the radiator, and the bushing mount near the fender well. Then you have the plastic ductwork to fit, and a place to mount the temp switch. I'd love to have a full metal radiator, but I'm thinking you might end up having a hard time accommodating all of these things starting with a standard metal core. Dave From smuckycat at hotmail.com Mon Jul 15 19:48:59 2002 From: smuckycat at hotmail.com (Joshua C) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: bypass valve Message-ID: I have a forge valve in my 200 and for the past 6 months I haven't had a problem after going through 2 plastic factory valves in a year. They are easy to take apart and clean. Mine makes a cool noise as well when you shift under boost, adds to the excitement. I payed 100$ used for the valve and a gauge but I think they usually run 120$ or so, I think euro-car has them. I bought it off a kid who had it on his VW 1.8t so as far as I can asert they would be interchangeable with an a4. I had to use a high strength nylon wire tie on the manifold line (the skinny one on top) because you can't get a hose clamp that I could find on it. Also when you are puting it in a little armor all on the inner hose ends help get it together. Joshua Cummings _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Mon Jul 15 20:16:52 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: importing rs2 Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Unfortunatelly it looks like it will be next to impossible bringing an RS2 to the states. I haven't bought the car yet or anything, I was trying to see what is invloved but it looks like it will be a fortune and I don't have that kind of money. It looks like it won't happen. I guess I'l' stick to modifying my 200 20V. Dan B. ----Original Message Follows---- From: "David Manz " Reply-To: To: themercedesbenz@hotmail.com Subject: importing rs2 Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 12:33:20 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from mountaindome.com ([207.170.237.13]) by mc1-f5.law16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Mon, 15 Jul 2002 12:31:50 -0700 Message-Id: <200207151233.AA1089798434@mountaindome.com> X-Mailer: Return-Path: david@mountaindome.com X-OriginalArrivalTime: 15 Jul 2002 19:31:50.0533 (UTC) FILETIME=[4449AB50:01C22C36] Hello, I am very intrested in your importation of an rs2. I would love to do the same some day. Please let me know how it goes. That is very exciting. Where did you get it from? ~David Manz PS: I would advise you to go to www.achtuning.com They are a great group a guys ( new complany) but they are bringing in an rs4, so they have experience. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=44364 From nhvonhof at attbi.com Mon Jul 15 17:32:16 2002 From: nhvonhof at attbi.com (Neil Vonhof) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: New Mysteries References: Message-ID: <3D335B7F.4E04764D@attbi.com> Suddenly no warning chime when the door is opened and the lights/ignition key/radio left in or on. Also, no more horn honk when locking the car (it still locks just fine). Anything come to mind? BTW, I received my Bose recall notice today. Neil Vonhof Seattle Audi Sport wrote: > [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > > Unfortunatelly it looks like it will be next to impossible bringing an RS2 to > the states. I haven't bought the car yet or anything, I was trying to see what > is invloved but it looks like it will be a fortune and I don't have that kind > of money. It looks like it won't happen. I guess I'l' stick to modifying my > 200 20V. > > Dan B. > ----Original Message Follows---- > From: "David Manz " > Reply-To: > To: themercedesbenz@hotmail.com > Subject: importing rs2 > Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 12:33:20 -0700 > MIME-Version: 1.0 > Received: from mountaindome.com ([207.170.237.13]) by mc1-f5.law16.hotmail.com > with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Mon, 15 Jul 2002 12:31:50 -0700 > Message-Id: <200207151233.AA1089798434@mountaindome.com> > X-Mailer: > Return-Path: david@mountaindome.com > X-OriginalArrivalTime: 15 Jul 2002 19:31:50.0533 (UTC) > FILETIME=[4449AB50:01C22C36] > Hello, > I am very intrested in your importation of an rs2. I would love to do the same > some day. Please let me know how it goes. That is very exciting. Where did you > get it from? > ~David Manz > PS: I would advise you to go to www.achtuning.com > They are a great group a guys ( new complany) but they are bringing in an rs4, > so they have experience. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] > > ===References:=== > 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=44364 > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Tue Jul 16 00:16:25 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: why is my car hesitating? Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I've checked all my spark plugs and they are all nice and dry and the igniton wires look good too. I just don't know what to look for. How does one find out if his fuel injectors are no good? How can you test those things? ----Original Message Follows---- From: Joseph VanZeipel To: "Audi Sport" Subject: Re: why is my car hesitating? Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:32:38 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v482) Received: from smtpout.mac.com ([204.179.120.86]) by mc2-f5.law16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:31:19 -0700 Received: from smtp-relay04-en1.mac.com (smtp-relay04-en1 [10.13.10.223])by smtpout.mac.com (8.12.1/8.10.2/1.0) with ESMTP id g6G2Wj8J004514for ; Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:32:45 -0700 (PDT) Received: from asmtp01.mac.com (asmtp01-qfe3.mac.com [10.13.10.65])by smtp-relay04-en1.mac.com (8.12.1/8.12.1/1.0) with ESMTP id g6G2WdtF014428for ; Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:32:39 -0700 (PDT) Received: from PC007520.reshall.uidaho.edu ([129.101.137.51]) by asmtp01.mac.com (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) with ESMTP id GZBLQF00.7BO for ; Mon, 15 Jul 2002 19:32:39 -0700 In-Reply-To: Message-Id: <4B766FDA-9864-11D6-8C53-000502918069@mac.com> X-Mailer: Apple Mail (2.482) Return-Path: vanzeipel@mac.com X-OriginalArrivalTime: 16 Jul 2002 02:31:20.0143 (UTC) FILETIME=[DE8B5DF0:01C22C70] It could be the ignition system. Mine has a high boost hesitation as you describe below, but I thought that nothing was too wrong because I was making full boost most of the time and i couldn't find any vacuum leaks by pulling most hoses out. Turns out that some oil was making it's way in to the plugs via a broken valve cover gasket, eventually number 5 plug and wire were failing most of the time, causing a constant vibration (misfire) which felt suspiciously like my previous high boost hesitation. Moral of the story--check out your ignition system. Joseph V. 200q20v 122k On Sunday, July 14, 2002, at 10:53 PM, Audi Sport wrote: >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] >I got an annoying situation over here. If I don't get help quick and >be able >to solve this, I might have to go to some more drastic measures, >like, setting >this thing on fire or something. Anyways, thing is this: my car >likes to >hesitate. Besides all the obvious stuff like leaky hoses and messed >up bypass >valves what could this be? The car runs ok but it just hesitates, >like it >holds back or something instead of pushing forward. It's not so bad >that it >makes the car shake when this happens but almost. Almost feels like >it doesn't >get gas smoothly. I can get the car up to 1.7 bar almost all the >time although >I've never seen 1.8 but it just feels slow. It's not chipped or >anything and I >know I got the right spark plugs and I looked over all the hoses and >I'm >pretty sure the bypass valve and the frequency valve is good. I >don't know >about the whole, messed up distributor thing but I'm not sure it >would cause >this to happen. So what do you guys think I should look for? I've >been putting >this off but it's getting real anoying driving this thing. Please >help me. > >Thank you all in advance ( I sure hope I get some help) > >Dan B. > >------------------------------------------------------------------------------ >Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] > >===References:=== > 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 From dans at audifans.com Tue Jul 16 00:47:24 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: bypass valve References: Message-ID: <3D33974C.E1E08D91@audifans.com> Armorall contains silicone. Silicone kills o2 sensors. Bad idea. A drop of WD40 perhaps, but armorall is bad. Hairspray is another option. Joshua C wrote: > > Also when you are puting it in a little armor all on the inner hose ends > help get it together. > > Joshua Cummings From quattrodave at yahoo.com Mon Jul 15 22:34:19 2002 From: quattrodave at yahoo.com (Dave Haupt) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Lifter noise - when is it time to do something? Message-ID: <20020716043419.29066.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> 1989 200 TQ Sedan, 10V, 145k miles or so.... It's been making lifter noise for quite a while. The longer it's gone without being started, the longer it makes lifter noise. Tonight, having not been driven for about two weeks, it made noise for two miles, then the car was stopped for bathing, then two miles home - lifter noise the whole time. Would I be doing damage if I continued to ignore it? And, if I choose to do something about it, must I replace all ten, or is there a way to deterministically know which "one" to change? And, from the BTDT department, how much time does this take? How much should a mechanic charge? Do I need to deal with it? TIA! Dave Santa Rosa, CA 1989 200TQ 10V Sedan, Lago Blue, $1.20 per mile and counting 1991 RX-7, modified, failed transmission, selling as parts car 1988 Trek 8500 aluminum, Deore XT, daily driver __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From quattrodave at yahoo.com Mon Jul 15 22:40:55 2002 From: quattrodave at yahoo.com (Dave Haupt) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Recommended place to purchase injectors? Message-ID: <20020716044055.32000.qmail@web12803.mail.yahoo.com> 1989 200TQ 10V Sedan. A few thousand miles ago, a mechanic did a compression test. I don't recall the exact numbers, but from cylinder to cylinder the variation was slight - 10 PSI or so. Overall, the PSI was low, but this is the low compression engine, so no surprise there. The engine has been running "lumpy". The mechanic had cleaned the injectors, and it was better for a while, but the "lumpy" is back. I've had four other CIS injected Audi engines, and the result of cleaning injectors when they're this old (146k miles) is that things are better for a brief period, then the symptoms return. So - I checked w/Blau on their price, and it is dramatically higher than I paid a dealer only 3 years ago for new injectors for my 1987 4k CSQ. Do injectors just cost what they do, or is there some secret-handshake place where they're still $25? TIA Dave Santa Rosa, CA 1989 200TQ Sedan, Lago Blue, 146k miles, $1.20 per mile and counting 1991 RX-7, failed tranmission, selling as parts car 1988 Trek 8500 aluminum, Deore XT, daily driver __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From quattrodave at yahoo.com Mon Jul 15 22:50:09 2002 From: quattrodave at yahoo.com (Dave Haupt) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Closure on steering system Message-ID: <20020716045009.49519.qmail@web12808.mail.yahoo.com> So I got the ZF rebuilt rack installed. Got a look at bits while it was out - tie rods look tight, bushings up front look good, can't see anything loose. The rack itself was shredded, leaks everywhere and a crack in the part that the steering wheel shaft goes into. Not rebuildable as I see it. With "new" rack and "old" leaky PS pump, the car handled as before - mushy, with a wheel that was a bit too hard to twist at low speed. I re-sealed the leaky PS pump, and the leak became a gusher. I must have gotten a chip in there between the pump halves. The car went from "can drive it if you watch the Pentosin level" to "don't drive it". About that time, our daily driver decided to lunch its tranmission - not too bad, the lifetime of a 2nd gen RX7 trans is usually 80k miles and this one went 110k with 50k of that on the race track. Nonetheless, the car is now scrap to me, so I'm cycling everywhere. I got a rebuilt ZF PS pump from a pseudo-local mechanic (75 miles away - closest one) and put it in tonight. The leaks are gone, we can drive the car again. Steering is different than before. It's still not particularly nimble - I think the car's just plain old too heavy, and too dialed for luxury for that - but the steering effort is lower than before, apparently the old pump was not delivering full pressure. It's still enough steering effort, though, that it irritiates my wife's post-surgical wrists, so we'll see if she really wants to keep the car. There is still absolutely zero feedback through the wheel. My mechanic says this particular 1989 is as nimble as any, so I think I'm just up against the fact that Audi did not give these cars a particularly engaging feel to the handling until the 20V in 1991. I remember testing one of those and liking it rather a lot. But, for us, I believe the steering issues are done, for the remainder of the time we'll own the car. While I had it all apart, I also replaced the high pressure steering hose (it had begun to leak) and the brake bomb (we lost power braking the instant the engine shut off) and the high pressure brake hose (on the hope that it would quiet down the "growly" noise the car made at low engine speeds). As a result, the PS leaks are gone, including the HP hose, the power brakes now give us fully 30 applications after the engine is shut off, and the "growly" noise is gone from the hydraulic system. So, it gets better.... Thanks for all the helpful suggestions from listers on these items. Dave Santa Rosa 1989 200TQ Sedan, Lago Blue, 146k miles, $1.20 per mile and counting 1991 RX-7, failed transmission, selling as parts car 1988 Trek 8500 aluminum, Deore XT, daily driver __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From BriceW at webtv.net Tue Jul 16 01:53:23 2002 From: BriceW at webtv.net (BriceW@webtv.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator neck repair is easy and cheap Message-ID: <17965-3D33B4D3-3051@storefull-2352.public.lawson.webtv.net> The upper radiator neck broke on my 91 200TQ20V 2 weeks ago. I was able to sinch it up and drive for awhile but it would come off again. So I carried gallons of water for a week till I could replace or repair it. The cheapest new OEM radiator I found was $239.00 from the www.parts connection.com at 800-472-1144. Part no. is 443 121 251AA. I asked him about a metal radiator for the 20V and he said that he once heard that www.nissens.com made one that had the extra outlets for the auxillary. I found one on the site under Model No. 60437. I looked at the back and front pictures of it and it looks like it has the extra outlets. But I could find no one in the USA that carried that model no. So, I found the Audi Service bulletin site and called 800-544-8021 and ordered the service bulletin A19002 which is Broken Radiator Neck Repair. It cost me $2.13 shipped. It is cheaper to order by phone. The bulletin is for all 5000s but it works for 200s as well. They also have a bulletin to fix the expansion neck. I then ordered Audi part no 200121001 which is a very hard black plastic insert that fits snuggle into the broken radiator neck from a local dealer for $20.00. The dealer wanted $50.00 for Audi part no. 200121003 which is a 2 part epoxy glue and that number had been superceded by a kit. I was lucky and found the original expoxy at an Audi dealer in Boulder. It had been used and the parts man was going to ship it to me free to use some and ship back. I paid him $13.00 shipped and kept the tubes. Very large tubes made by Kent Industries in Cleveland,Ohio. The Kent Pt. No is 20250 and the stock no. is EA-W and the Audi Pt No. is 200121003. I didnt trust using any of the many expoxys I found at Auto Zone as I couldnt figure out what types of plastic I had and what would not bond with what,polythylenes and such and tempatures and chemicals,etc. My trusted Audi mechanic told me that he had done many of these repairs and i always worked. He said to file down the upper neck so that it was flush which I did and which the service bulletin didnt specify. Then I used 80 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the inside of the neck. My mechanic told me to also lightly sand the insert as well which I did. Then I applied the epoxy around the insert and fit it snugly into the broken neck. I filled and smoothed any gaps I had with more epoxy but I didnt have many thank to filing the neck flush first. I then let it cure for 24 hours as my mechanic recommended. The bulletin says only 1 hour. Then 24 hours later I re-attached the upper hose and using a new clamp. Dont super tighten the clamp. This is what causes a lot of the necks to break. The new insert is super thick and strong and should never break. I then put new antifreeze in. I have driven for a week of hard driving and it works great. The total cost was $37.00. From jeremyp at mindspring.com Tue Jul 16 00:04:14 2002 From: jeremyp at mindspring.com (Jeremy Palenchar) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: bypass valve In-Reply-To: <3D33974C.E1E08D91@audifans.com> Message-ID: <000001c22c8e$9d8ae960$7001000a@palencj> We use "Simple Green" -Jeremy _______________________________________________ Email: mailto:jeremyp@mindspring.com The Solution is in the Question, not the Answer _______________________________________________ -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Dan Simoes Sent: Monday, July 15, 2002 8:47 PM To: Joshua C Cc: themercedesbenz@hotmail.com; 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Re: bypass valve Armorall contains silicone. Silicone kills o2 sensors. Bad idea. A drop of WD40 perhaps, but armorall is bad. Hairspray is another option. Joshua C wrote: > > Also when you are puting it in a little armor all on the inner hose > ends help get it together. > > Joshua Cummings _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From Chewy4000 at aol.com Tue Jul 16 08:42:01 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: HELP Running very hot Message-ID: <6686A098.54F8CDD9.022A5BF8@aol.com> OK, I need some help here. I have a 196k mi. sedan. New radiator recently with hoses, Thermal Stat 5Deg lower since was hot to begin with, and new aux pump. On a 80 deg day the car runs fines with or without ac. Now on a day like 90 deg or hotter I cant run my car with the ac without the gauge hanging right before the fist dot. I changed the stat last week hoping it was that but nothing. Anyone think the official Audi coolant with make a difference? This sucks cause all this week here in NJ its over 90 deg Chewy From bimmer_dude at hotmail.com Tue Jul 16 16:38:51 2002 From: bimmer_dude at hotmail.com (Jobe Tichy) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose Recall Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I contacted AoA this morning and it looks like my amp qualifies for replacement. I tried to find out what outstanding recalls there were for the car, but the lady I talked with said she was unable to find that information out. Can anyone tell me what other major recalls the 200 experienced over the years that I should definitely check to be sure they have been replaced? Thanks. JOBE '91 200tq 20v '84 BMW 318i (modified) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=44364 From charlie at istari.com Tue Jul 16 10:39:19 2002 From: charlie at istari.com (Charles Baer) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice Message-ID: <3D343E27.78F6BCFF@istari.com> > -----Original Message----- > From: Kneale Brownson [mailto:knotnook@traverse.com] > Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2002 9:22 PM > To: Gaidos, A.; Quattro; Audi20V List; 200q20v List > Subject: Re: Bose speaker recall notice > > Mine came in today's mail too. I'm betting my local dealer won't have > repair parts for weeks. My notice says it applies to 1991 > and later 100, > 200 and V8 models with the BOSE radio. I'm wondering about > our '90 V8 with > the Delta radio. I thought the speakers in both systems were > the same. The letter I received yesterday explicitly names 91 and 92 MY cars, so I guess that's why my friend was told yesterday that his '93 V8 had no such recall listed. In case you haven't received the notice and were wondering about your non-200q20v Bose, it seems that only 91 & 92 are part of the campaign. I just looked in my coworkers trunk and externally the speakers look exactly like my '90 V8 and my '91 200. It's possible that only two years got 12V caps, I was going to try to find the NHTSA # that somebody posted and see if the bureaucrats managed to miss the other years in the report. Charlie From ingo at waratap.com Tue Jul 16 12:46:51 2002 From: ingo at waratap.com (Ingo D. Rautenberg) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: No Start this morning Message-ID: <002001c22ce0$012c92b0$9865fea9@ingo> Had parked the 91 200q20v last Friday at the Airport and when I got back last night (Monday)she started right up. Five miles later I filled her up with $20 worth of Mobil Super and drove another 20 miles to the local Blockbuster for a movie. Started up fine after 15 minutes and drove to the supermarket and then parked the car at home. This morning she cranked fine, but did not fire once. I opened hood and checked for any moisture/loose connections (75 degrees and humid -- will be 90+ today like most everywhere in the good-ol-USA today). Did smell fuel. Didn't have time to further diagnose, so I drove the urq to work instead. Any ideas? I'm sure I'll check the codes and spark plugs first. TIA -Ingo '91 200q20v...Slightly modified '83 Urquattro ('90 v8q RIP) http://hometown.aol.com/quattringo/index.html --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.375 / Virus Database: 210 - Release Date: 7/10/2002 From Dale at TheMcCormacks.org Tue Jul 16 13:02:49 2002 From: Dale at TheMcCormacks.org (Dale McCormack) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Neck Repair: "Where has this info been until now?" Message-ID: <3D3451B9.8080303@TheMcCormacks.org> In light of the radiator neck/ flange problem, I'm surprised that the availabililty of the retrofix kit from Audi hasn't been discussed until now! This issue has been "chewed about regularly" for years. Yet, when it happened to me, I like many other listers, spent hundreds of dead presidents for a completely new heat exchanger. Many thanks for letting us know of your experiences. They can benefit all who own a Type 44 Audi with an OEM design radiator. Dale From: BriceW@webtv.net Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 00:53:23 -0500 (CDT) To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Radiator neck repair is easy and cheap The upper radiator neck broke on my 91 200TQ20V 2 weeks ago. I was able to sinch it up and drive for awhile but it would come off again. So I carried gallons of water for a week till I could replace or repair it. The cheapest new OEM radiator I found was $239.00 from the www.parts connection.com at 800-472-1144. Part no. is 443 121 251AA. I asked him about a metal radiator for the 20V and he said that he once heard that www.nissens.com made one that had the extra outlets for the auxillary. I found one on the site under Model No. 60437. I looked at the back and front pictures of it and it looks like it has the extra outlets. But I could find no one in the USA that carried that model no. So, I found the Audi Service bulletin site and called 800-544-8021 and ordered the service bulletin A19002 which is Broken Radiator Neck Repair. It cost me $2.13 shipped. It is cheaper to order by phone. The bulletin is for all 5000s but it works for 200s as well. They also have a bulletin to fix the expansion neck. I then ordered Audi part no 200121001 which is a very hard black plastic insert that fits snuggle into the broken radiator neck from a local dealer for $20.00. The dealer wanted $50.00 for Audi part no. 200121003 which is a 2 part epoxy glue and that number had been superceded by a kit. I was lucky and found the original expoxy at an Audi dealer in Boulder. It had been used and the parts man was going to ship it to me free to use some and ship back. I paid him $13.00 shipped and kept the tubes. Very large tubes made by Kent Industries in Cleveland,Ohio. The Kent Pt. No is 20250 and the stock no. is EA-W and the Audi Pt No. is 200121003. I didnt trust using any of the many expoxys I found at Auto Zone as I couldnt figure out what types of plastic I had and what would not bond with what,polythylenes and such and tempatures and chemicals,etc. My trusted Audi mechanic told me that he had done many of these repairs and i always worked. He said to file down the upper neck so that it was flush which I did and which the service bulletin didnt specify. Then I used 80 grit sandpaper and lightly sanded the inside of the neck. My mechanic told me to also lightly sand the insert as well which I did. Then I applied the epoxy around the insert and fit it snugly into the broken neck. I filled and smoothed any gaps I had with more epoxy but I didnt have many thank to filing the neck flush first. I then let it cure for 24 hours as my mechanic recommended. The bulletin says only 1 hour. Then 24 hours later I re-attached the upper hose and using a new clamp. Dont super tighten the clamp. This is what causes a lot of the necks to break. The new insert is super thick and strong and should never break. I then put new antifreeze in. I have driven for a week of hard driving and it works great. The total cost was $37.00. From knotnook at traverse.com Tue Jul 16 14:38:59 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Neck Repair: "Where has this info been until now?" In-Reply-To: <3D3451B9.8080303@TheMcCormacks.org> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020716133016.00c5ca90@traverse.com> -- At 12:02 PM 07/16/2002 -0500, Dale McCormack wrote: >In light of the radiator neck/ flange problem, I'm surprised that the >availabililty of the retrofix kit from Audi hasn't been discussed until >now! This issue has been "chewed about regularly" for years. Yet, when >it happened to me, I like many other listers, spent hundreds of dead >presidents for a completely new heat exchanger. > >Many thanks for letting us know of your experiences. They can benefit >all who own a Type 44 Audi with an OEM design radiator. I've been reading the Quattro Lists (Q List, 200q20v List and V8 List) now for maybe four years. I'll bet I've read at least two dozen new postings in that time that have reported existence of a repair kit available at the dealership for the broken plastic radiator necks, as well as many, many archived reports. Most of the reports I've read said using the Audi fix usually lasted a few months before either the rest of the neck broke off or the plastic endcaps started leaking. Many have reported repairing the neck with a piece of copper water pipe that just slides inside the radiator neck and then gets epoxied in place. Anyway, these plastics get brittle from age and lots of under-hood heat cycling. I could see doing the epoxy thing to keep the car on the road until you could find a replacement radiator. I'd rather spend $10 at the hardware for a bit of copper pipe that I could put a flare on to help retain the hose and some epoxy (or maybe one of the newer urethane adhesives guaranteed to stick to anything) than to enrich the dealership by $35-50. -- From SuffolkD at aol.com Tue Jul 16 15:30:07 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Fuel Injectors cost 200q20v digest, Message-ID: <1a2.550d68f.2a65c02f@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Ohhhh the 20v gods may shoot us for the 10V content. I got mine at Force5.com (see link in Audifans parts suppliers list) 603 223 6700 cost for 5 was $225 = $45 for comparision on July 1, 2002. cann't figure avail or price on Blau's site. Manadatory 20V content: (though 20V is $95 each when you by five) -Scott in BOSTON Subject: Recommended place to purchase injectors? To: 200q20v@audifans.com 1989 200TQ 10V Sedan. > So - I checked w/Blau on their price, and it is > dramatically higher than I paid a dealer only 3 years > ago for new injectors for my 1987 4k CSQ. > > Do injectors just cost what they do, or is there some > From Dale at TheMcCormacks.org Tue Jul 16 18:53:35 2002 From: Dale at TheMcCormacks.org (Dale McCormack) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Gear GP References: Message-ID: <3D34A3EF.1020504@TheMcCormacks.org> Derek, Thanks for the update and "hanging-in" on this (extended) Group Purchase project. You exemplify the typical quality of our user group members. Personally, there's been no urgency on my cars' part, but your gear be provide "peace of mind" to accompany the new Bose speaker part! RideWell, Dale From irautenberg at comcast.net Tue Jul 16 21:11:08 2002 From: irautenberg at comcast.net (Ingo Rautenberg) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: No Start this morning References: <002001c22ce0$012c92b0$9865fea9@ingo> Message-ID: <002601c22d26$73cb36a0$42d22844@home> Ah, the puzzle. I guess ye ol 20v just missed me ;-). Tried starting her up this evening and she did so without complaint. Must like the heat more than I do (91F/33C at 7 pm) . Easy to pass everyone else with running that big A/C load in my sans A/C Urq, though. Will see if it was just a fluke. Has anyone had any fuel pressure regulator problems with their 200q20v? I know v8 owners replace them as a matter of course (though I never found the need to). -Ingo '91 200q20v...Slightly modified '83 Urquattro ('90 v8q RIP) http://hometown.aol.com/quattringo/index.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ingo D. Rautenberg" To: "200q20v List" <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2002 11:46 AM Subject: No Start this morning > Had parked the 91 200q20v last Friday at the Airport and when I got back > last night (Monday)she started right up. Five miles later I filled her up > with $20 worth of Mobil Super and drove another 20 miles to the local > Blockbuster for a movie. Started up fine after 15 minutes and drove to the > supermarket and then parked the car at home. This morning she cranked fine, > but did not fire once. I opened hood and checked for any moisture/loose > connections (75 degrees and humid -- will be 90+ today like most everywhere > in the good-ol-USA today). Did smell fuel. Didn't have time to further > diagnose, so I drove the urq to work instead. Any ideas? I'm sure I'll > check the codes and spark plugs first. > > TIA > > -Ingo > '91 200q20v...Slightly modified > '83 Urquattro > ('90 v8q RIP) > http://hometown.aol.com/quattringo/index.html > > > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.375 / Virus Database: 210 - Release Date: 7/10/2002 > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.372 / Virus Database: 207 - Release Date: 6/20/2002 From ekellock at juno.com Wed Jul 17 00:31:12 2002 From: ekellock at juno.com (Edward J Kellock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Lifter noise - when is it time to do something? Message-ID: <20020716.234307.-542491.0.ekellock@juno.com> I'm in a similar situation. '89 200q mc2 with excessive lifter noise. It probably won't be traumatic, just annoying. Sometimes on a cold start the lifter noise is accompanied by rough running, like one cylinder firing weakly. With a few revs, both lifter noise and rough running go away. Anywho... I've just recently found out that new lifters cost about 10-12 bux a piece and I recall reading that replacement isn't to terribly awful. I think the final death knell for mine was the Q-club event at 2nd creek on Memorial Day w/e. I waled on it pretty good, just short of abuse. Lifters have been noticeably more vocal every since. Oh well. I don't think that having to do the lifters at 146k is all that troubling. And if I can live with the noise, I don't really have to do them, not right away anyhow. Ultimately the lifters can fail and the valves won't open when they should and I'm sure that can't be too fun. Ed Colorado Springs On Mon, 15 Jul 2002 21:34:19 -0700 (PDT) Dave Haupt writes: > 1989 200 TQ Sedan, 10V, 145k miles or so.... > > It's been making lifter noise for quite a while. The > longer it's gone without being started, the longer it > makes lifter noise. Tonight, having not been driven > for about two weeks, it made noise for two miles, then > the car was stopped for bathing, then two miles home - > lifter noise the whole time. > > Would I be doing damage if I continued to ignore it? > And, if I choose to do something about it, must I > replace all ten, or is there a way to > deterministically know which "one" to change? And, > from the BTDT department, how much time does this > take? How much should a mechanic charge? Do I need > to deal with it? > > TIA! > > Dave > Santa Rosa, CA > > 1989 200TQ 10V Sedan, Lago Blue, $1.20 per mile and > counting > 1991 RX-7, modified, failed transmission, selling as > parts car > 1988 Trek 8500 aluminum, Deore XT, daily driver > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes > http://autos.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. From rbouilly at usamedia.tv Wed Jul 17 00:14:16 2002 From: rbouilly at usamedia.tv (Roger Bouilly) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose recall Message-ID: Hello the List, Looking for more info on the Recall. I just bought nother 200tq20v, and need to know if the recall applies to original owners only, or no. Please advise.. Thanks, Roger From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 17 04:32:11 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose recall In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000201c22d64$10a2a7f0$0d42fea9@newpc> Roger- All NHTSA recalls are applicable to the car, regardless of ownership history. Taka -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Roger Bouilly Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:14 AM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Bose recall Hello the List, Looking for more info on the Recall. I just bought nother 200tq20v, and need to know if the recall applies to original owners only, or no. Please advise.. Thanks, Roger _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jul 17 09:26:51 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose recall In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717082355.00d58710@traverse.com> -- At 11:14 PM 07/16/2002 -0700, Roger Bouilly wrote: >Hello the List, > >Looking for more info on the Recall. I just bought nother 200tq20v, and >need to know if the recall applies to original owners only, or no. I'm not the original owner of my 200q20v and I received the notice. However, I've been the owner for several years AND I wrote to Audi of America a year or so ago expressing concern about the potential for burning Boses. I've had no contact with Audi or the dealer regarding this car otherwise. One other point, I believe that in Michigan, where I reside, registering a car with the state for licenses results in the state notifying the manufacturer of ownership changes. -- From pjrose at frontiernet.net Wed Jul 17 11:27:24 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 3:38 PM +0000 7/16/02, Jobe Tichy wrote: >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > >I contacted AoA this morning and it looks like my amp qualifies for >replacement. > >I tried to find out what outstanding recalls there were for the car, but the >lady I talked with said she was unable to find that information out. Can >anyone tell me what other major recalls the 200 experienced over the years >that I should definitely check to be sure they have been replaced? Thanks. Do a search on the NHTSA website. The main (other) '91 200q related recall was the airbag--about 4 yrs ago. -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From quattrodave at yahoo.com Wed Jul 17 10:29:04 2002 From: quattrodave at yahoo.com (Dave Haupt) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Neck Repair: "Where has this info been until now?" Message-ID: <20020717162904.65664.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> Regarding the repair kit from the dealer - I'm flabbergasted. When my upper hose fitting broke off, I spoke to not one, but THREE dealers. I asked them about repairing it, and they said there was no way, this was the common failure, and offered to sell me a new radiator for notably more than I could get it elsewhere. I guess the dealers are not always aware of all those service bulletins, or maybe they don't bother searching. FWIW, when my 200 broke the rad, I just put in a new one. Ordered an "all metal" from Modine, and got, instead, one with plastic and metal. Not being able to keep the car off the road any longer, I put it in. That was because I'd "fixed" two before in my 4000 and 5000. In both cases, I used a plastic insert, and some epoxy to hold it in place, similar to how it sounds as if this kit works. In both cases, less than 6 months later, and the plastic tank itself broke around the repaired hose fitting. Quite possibly, the fabrication of the later radiator is different, and someone has determined that repairing the broken fitting is now a reliable repair. Keep us posted! Dave Santa Rosa, CA __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From pjrose at frontiernet.net Wed Jul 17 13:47:48 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose speaker recall notice In-Reply-To: <20020715205133.22724.qmail@web12403.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20020715205133.22724.qmail@web12403.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: At 1:51 PM -0700 7/15/02, Scalmanini Steve wrote: >Does this mean AoA will reimburse the deductables of >those who've had their cars totaled from Bose fires? My first inclination was to say "Hah!" However if an owner has incurred costs due to Bose-fire damage that happened after Audi became well aware of the potential hazard (IMO, mid-2000 is _plenty_ late enough), they might well consider filing a claim (or sue) to recover costs. [I am not a lawyer; neither do I play one on TV. I genuinely regret the litigious nature of our society, and I've never files a lawsuit in my life. However this could be a situation where a legal slap would "guide" a manufacturer to be more proactively involved in promoting consumer safety . ] Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From brianl at starsys.com Wed Jul 17 12:27:44 2002 From: brianl at starsys.com (Brian Link) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: No Start this morning Message-ID: <01C22D84.F92241A0.brianl@starsys.com> Ingo, your problem sounds identical to my 86 coupe gt. It was the fuel pump relay. During a no start condition I could tap on the relay while cranking, and it would spring to life. I Maybe worth a try if you have a spare you could swap for. Brian Link Boulder, CO >Reply-To: Ingo Rautenberg > >Ah, the puzzle. I guess ye ol 20v just missed me ;-). Tried starting her >up this evening and she did so without complaint. Must like the heat more >than I do (91F/33C at 7 pm) . Easy to pass everyone else with running that >big A/C load in my sans A/C Urq, though. > >Will see if it was just a fluke. Has anyone had any fuel pressure regulator >problems with their 200q20v? I know v8 owners replace them as a matter of >course (though I never found the need to). From dans at audifans.com Wed Jul 17 14:55:47 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: how do you get the damn doors off? Message-ID: <3D35AFA3.D086A4FD@audifans.com> I'm trying to remove the rear door panels and I know there are some kind of screws inside the armrest, but what are they? They aren't phillips head, they aren't hex (though they look that way) and I doubt they are torx. Any ideas? Thanks. Also, if anyone has managed to fit 4" speakers in the dash without major surgery let me know. I have a nice set of JBLs but I would need to whip out the Dremel. 4" MB Quarts are on ebay for $65 and I bet they would drop right in, but I'm not positive. From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jul 17 15:45:42 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: how do you get the damn doors off? In-Reply-To: <3D35AFA3.D086A4FD@audifans.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717144343.00d68920@traverse.com> -- As usual, with Bentley, you need to "snoop" instead of look for reasonably-organized info: Try interior trim, rear door: 70.5, which says the armrest is held on with allen head screws that need loosening. At 01:55 PM 07/17/2002 -0400, Dan Simoes wrote: >I'm trying to remove the rear door panels and I know there are some kind >of screws inside the armrest, but what are they? They aren't phillips >head, they aren't hex (though they look that way) and I doubt they are >torx. > >Any ideas? Thanks. > >Also, if anyone has managed to fit 4" speakers in the dash without major >surgery let me know. I have a nice set of JBLs but I would need to whip >out the Dremel. 4" MB Quarts are on ebay for $65 and I bet they would >drop right in, but I'm not positive. > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From David.Schaible at penw.com Wed Jul 17 15:53:35 2002 From: David.Schaible at penw.com (Schaible, David) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: how do you get the damn doors off? Message-ID: Also may be screw in the door pull inset piece that is accessible when you pull handle out -----Original Message----- From: Kneale Brownson [mailto:knotnook@traverse.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 2:46 PM To: Dan Simoes; 200 20v Subject: Re: how do you get the damn doors off? -- As usual, with Bentley, you need to "snoop" instead of look for reasonably-organized info: Try interior trim, rear door: 70.5, which says the armrest is held on with allen head screws that need loosening. At 01:55 PM 07/17/2002 -0400, Dan Simoes wrote: >I'm trying to remove the rear door panels and I know there are some kind >of screws inside the armrest, but what are they? They aren't phillips >head, they aren't hex (though they look that way) and I doubt they are >torx. > >Any ideas? Thanks. > >Also, if anyone has managed to fit 4" speakers in the dash without major >surgery let me know. I have a nice set of JBLs but I would need to whip >out the Dremel. 4" MB Quarts are on ebay for $65 and I bet they would >drop right in, but I'm not positive. > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From Gabo at maffia.hu Wed Jul 17 22:29:14 2002 From: Gabo at maffia.hu (=?iso-8859-2?Q?Endr=F5di_G=E1bor?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: why is my car hesitating? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Check the Fuel pressure. It sounds like my problem. The fuel pressure regulator is leaking-- Gab? From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jul 17 17:05:15 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: The 2079 Tool Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717155244.00d6c100@traverse.com> -- I bought the 2079 tool for dealing with crankshaft bolt tensioning and vibration damper reinstallation (V8) when the Zelenda engine tools group purchase occurred. I planned to use it when I undertook the tortuous 4kq waterpump/timing belt job the other day. Couldn't visualize its being of any value on that car because of all the body work in front of the engine. But in looking thru the Bentley regarding its use with the 4K, I saw a photo of something fastened to the outboard end of the tool where there's what looks like a huge torx drive hole cut into the handle. Anybody know what's supposed to fit into that odd hole to accept (I presume) a torque wrench. I ended up taking the bolt off with a 2-ft-long 1/2" drive breaker bar and about a 12" extension poking thru the grille + most of my 215 lbs bouncing on the end. To reinstall, I added about 30 inches of water pipe to the breaker bar and all but stood on it. -- From t44tq at mindspring.com Wed Jul 17 17:41:14 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: how do you get the damn doors off? In-Reply-To: <3D35AFA3.D086A4FD@audifans.com> Message-ID: <000501c22dd2$4b77a6f0$0d42fea9@newpc> 4mm Allen head in the front armrests, don't know if they're different in the back. Taka -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Dan Simoes Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2002 1:56 PM To: 200 20v Subject: how do you get the damn doors off? I'm trying to remove the rear door panels and I know there are some kind of screws inside the armrest, but what are they? They aren't phillips head, they aren't hex (though they look that way) and I doubt they are torx. Any ideas? Thanks. Also, if anyone has managed to fit 4" speakers in the dash without major surgery let me know. I have a nice set of JBLs but I would need to whip out the Dremel. 4" MB Quarts are on ebay for $65 and I bet they would drop right in, but I'm not positive. _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jul 17 18:34:20 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: The 2079 Tool In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717155244.00d6c100@traverse.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717173128.00d681e0@traverse.com> -- For anyone else with the tool: Bob Rosato came up with the answer: The odd hole in the handle of the 2079 accepts a 3/4" drive. So you could use it with a 3/4" drive torque wrench. Or a 3/4" drive breaker bar. It's an odd hole because it's made to accept the 3/4" drive at several different angles. Kind of like those famous Audi triple square bolts, eh? At 04:05 PM 07/17/2002 -0400, Kneale Brownson wrote: >-- >I bought the 2079 tool for dealing with crankshaft bolt tensioning and >vibration damper reinstallation (V8) when the Zelenda engine tools group >purchase occurred. I planned to use it when I undertook the tortuous 4kq >waterpump/timing belt job the other day. Couldn't visualize its being of >any value on that car because of all the body work in front of the >engine. But in looking thru the Bentley regarding its use with the 4K, I >saw a photo of something fastened to the outboard end of the tool where >there's what looks like a huge torx drive hole cut into the >handle. Anybody know what's supposed to fit into that odd hole to accept >(I presume) a torque wrench. > >I ended up taking the bolt off with a 2-ft-long 1/2" drive breaker bar and >about a 12" extension poking thru the grille + most of my 215 lbs bouncing >on the end. To reinstall, I added about 30 inches of water pipe to the >breaker bar and all but stood on it. >-- -- From paulunm at msn.com Wed Jul 17 16:34:08 2002 From: paulunm at msn.com (Paul Friedenberg) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: S6 turbo for sale Message-ID: I just upgraded to a RS2 in my '95 S6 (50k miles) and the turbo is in VERY good condition. It appears that the previous owner just puttered around and religiously changed the oil. I would consider the turbo as good as a rebuilt unit. Please contact me off list if you are interested. My mechanic estimated the turbo would last someone a good 60-90k miles. Turbo will fit '91 200 20v, 92-97 urS4/6. Paul Friedenberg Albuquerque, NM _________________________________________________________________ Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Thu Jul 18 01:00:15 2002 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Correct 3B distributor rotor PN? Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.0.20020717235759.00a76680@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Fellow listers, Next weekend I'll be swapping the 3B in my '85 coupe quattro and I'd like to know which is the correct PN for the 3B distributor rotor... The FA didn't seem to "know" it and I think I searched pretty well... So anyone who has the correct Audi/Bosch PN would like to share it? Thanks for your answers, Mihnea From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jul 17 21:09:11 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Correct 3B distributor rotor PN? In-Reply-To: <5.1.1.6.0.20020717235759.00a76680@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717200615.00c60100@traverse.com> -- The number stamped into my "spare" is 0 237 522 019. That's apparently a Bosch #. Don't know what Audi's number would be. At 12:00 AM 07/18/2002 +0200, Mihnea Cotet wrote: >Fellow listers, > > >Next weekend I'll be swapping the 3B in my '85 coupe quattro and I'd like >to know which is the correct PN for the 3B distributor rotor... The FA >didn't seem to "know" it and I think I searched pretty well... > >So anyone who has the correct Audi/Bosch PN would like to share it? > > >Thanks for your answers, > > >Mihnea > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > -- From morpheus0213 at yahoo.com Wed Jul 17 21:59:00 2002 From: morpheus0213 at yahoo.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Correct 3B distributor rotor PN? In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717200615.00c60100@traverse.com> Message-ID: <20020718035900.53179.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> i'm actually ordering one myself.. i was lookin on SJM's site and it says that the book is wrong and this is the correct # 1 234 332 414 and the Audi # is 054 905 225 it may also include R1 but look on sjm's site to see a whole shpeel about attaching it with loctite etc. -Dave --- Kneale Brownson wrote: > -- > The number stamped into my "spare" is 0 237 522 019. > That's apparently a > Bosch #. Don't know what Audi's number would be. > > At 12:00 AM 07/18/2002 +0200, Mihnea Cotet wrote: > > >Fellow listers, > > > > > >Next weekend I'll be swapping the 3B in my '85 > coupe quattro and I'd like > >to know which is the correct PN for the 3B > distributor rotor... The FA > >didn't seem to "know" it and I think I searched > pretty well... > > > >So anyone who has the correct Audi/Bosch PN would > like to share it? > > > > > >Thanks for your answers, > > > > > >Mihnea > > > >_______________________________________________ > >200q20v mailing list > >200q20v@audifans.com > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > > > > -- > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From Bayviewtom at cs.com Thu Jul 18 01:08:21 2002 From: Bayviewtom at cs.com (Bayviewtom@cs.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Farewell 200 20V Fans Message-ID: Well, I took my wife out for one last spin in the 200 tonight. A flatbed truck arrives at my office at 9am to take the car to its new owner in New York. Most of you know I was a bit unsettled at how my auction was going on E-Bay, but as luck would have it, I got a call last weekend from an Audi nut (he owns five of 'em). After the auction ended, I talked to him, and I got just a little less than my reserve price. Granted, my reserve price was blue book value, and with a non-working stereo, I think the deal is more than fair. I plan to pass on this e-mail list to the new owner. You all have been very kind, supportive, and more than happy to offer advice when needed. Farewell, Tom From scrosbie at integraonline.com Thu Jul 18 00:38:16 2002 From: scrosbie at integraonline.com (Steve Crosbie) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose recall References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717082355.00d58710@traverse.com> Message-ID: <3D364638.7050108@integraonline.com> Kneal, I also wrote Audi and the NHTSA about our potential mobile incendiary devices (didn't quite use those words) and received no reply from either. Looks like our actions finally paid off .. good work 200 group ... and thanks to Chris, Brett, Phil and others who inspired us to stay on target and act! I also just got my notice (3rd owner) and local Minneapolis Audi dealer (Carousel) was not aware of the recall yet, but have my appointment for replacement next week. :-) Steve Kneale Brownson wrote > >I'm not the original owner of my 200q20v and I received the >notice. However, I've been the owner for several years AND I wrote to Audi >of America a year or so ago expressing concern about the potential for >burning Boses. I've had no contact with Audi or the dealer regarding this >car otherwise. One other point, I believe that in Michigan, where I >reside, registering a car with the state for licenses results in the state >notifying the manufacturer of ownership changes. > From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Thu Jul 18 10:24:52 2002 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Correct 3B distributor rotor PN? Found it!!! In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717200615.00c60100@traverse.com> References: <5.1.1.6.0.20020717235759.00a76680@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.0.20020718092252.02ee57b0@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> At 20:09 17/07/2002 -0400, Kneale Brownson wrote: >The number stamped into my "spare" is 0 237 522 019. That's apparently a >Bosch #. Don't know what Audi's number would be. Thanks Kneale! The number stamped on my original (with a broken plastic gear) rotor is 1 234 332 414 (R1), which is the official Bosch number. The price in Europe is around 20 Euros tax included and the availability seems to be "normal".... Hope this helps someone! Mihnea From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Thu Jul 18 04:49:25 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: hesitation Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I don't know what it is. It's somewhat sporadic. I'm pretty sure it's fuel related. I don't know.....maybe the gas just sucks around here or something. Although I always run 93. ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Vincenzo Basile" To: Subject: hesitation Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 00:14:22 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from c002.snv.cp.net ([209.228.32.164]) by mc2-f31.law16.hotmail.= com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:54:25 -0700 Received: (cpmta 13494 invoked from network); 17 Jul 2002 20:54:17 -0700 Received: from 67.193.96.98 (HELO oemcomputer) by smtp.peoplepc.com (209.228.32.164) with SMTP; 17 Jul 2002 20:54:17 -0700 X-Sent: 18 Jul 2002 03:54:17 GMT Message-ID: <002001c22e11$a4f16380$6260c143@oemcomputer> X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Return-Path: Bleaf1@peoplepc.com X-OriginalArrivalTime: 18 Jul 2002 03:54:25.0549 (UTC) FILETIME=3D[CEE773D0:01C22E0E] I too have hesitation under high boost ,I have a code for the canisterpurge valve ,but still havent gotten it ,what was the problem for u ,the ignition coil? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------= --- Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. Click Here[1] =3D=3D=3DReferences:=3D=3D=3D 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c157??PI=3D44364 From project20vt at yahoo.com Thu Jul 18 02:15:12 2002 From: project20vt at yahoo.com (Justin Olson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose recall In-Reply-To: <3D364638.7050108@integraonline.com> Message-ID: <20020718081512.50172.qmail@web10404.mail.yahoo.com> Since I haven't recieved a notification yet, could I just go to the dealer( sunset audi/porsche ) tell them they need to fix the recalls? --- Steve Crosbie wrote: > Kneal, > I also wrote Audi and the NHTSA about our > potential mobile > incendiary devices (didn't quite use those words) > and received no reply > from either. Looks like our actions finally paid > off .. good work 200 > group ... and thanks to Chris, Brett, Phil and > others who inspired us to > stay on target and act! I also just got my notice > (3rd owner) and > local Minneapolis Audi dealer (Carousel) was not > aware of the recall > yet, but have my appointment for replacement next > week. :-) > Steve > > Kneale Brownson wrote > > > > >I'm not the original owner of my 200q20v and I > received the > >notice. However, I've been the owner for several > years AND I wrote to Audi > >of America a year or so ago expressing concern > about the potential for > >burning Boses. I've had no contact with Audi or > the dealer regarding this > >car otherwise. One other point, I believe that in > Michigan, where I > >reside, registering a car with the state for > licenses results in the state > >notifying the manufacturer of ownership changes. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Thu Jul 18 13:41:33 2002 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator removal Message-ID: How do I get the radiator out (200tq20v)? I've removed all hoses and fasteners, I've removed the fan with shroud, the AC condenser is removed (well, resting in front of the radiator), the whole thing is loose and will move somewhat, but I can't figure out how to get that d*** thing out.. It will interfere with either the fender or the engine no matter how I try. Any good tips? -- E. Spangen '90 Audi 200TQ 20v From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Jul 18 09:02:07 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Correct 3B distributor rotor PN? In-Reply-To: <20020718035900.53179.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020717200615.00c60100@traverse.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020718075304.00c63880@traverse.com> -- Somehow I missed that Mihnea was looking for the ROTOR part number and thought he wanted the number for the distributor itself. The number I supplied was stamped into the side of a new distributor with metal gear. The rotor has the part number Dave reports here. At 08:59 PM 07/17/2002 -0700, Dave wrote: >i'm actually ordering one myself.. i was lookin on >SJM's site and it says that the book is wrong and this >is the correct # 1 234 332 414 and the Audi # is 054 >905 225 it may also include R1 but look on sjm's site >to see a whole shpeel about attaching it with loctite >etc. >-Dave >--- Kneale Brownson wrote: > > -- > > The number stamped into my "spare" is 0 237 522 019. > > That's apparently a > > Bosch #. Don't know what Audi's number would be. > > > > At 12:00 AM 07/18/2002 +0200, Mihnea Cotet wrote: > > > > >Fellow listers, > > > > > > > > >Next weekend I'll be swapping the 3B in my '85 > > coupe quattro and I'd like > > >to know which is the correct PN for the 3B > > distributor rotor... The FA > > >didn't seem to "know" it and I think I searched > > pretty well... > > > > > >So anyone who has the correct Audi/Bosch PN would > > like to share it? > > > > > > > > >Thanks for your answers, > > > > > > > > >Mihnea > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >200q20v mailing list > > >200q20v@audifans.com > > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > > > > > > > -- > > > > _______________________________________________ > > 200q20v mailing list > > 200q20v@audifans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes >http://autos.yahoo.com -- From dans at audifans.com Thu Jul 18 09:04:30 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: damn doors are off Message-ID: <3D36AECD.BAAA5173@audifans.com> It's a 4.5mm allen as Taka mentioned. Thanks for the tips. The mechanism is maddening if you've never seen it before. I'll try to take pictures. I was surprised to find there are no amps on the rear speakers - the amps must be buried somewhere. I find the Bentley for this car is very inadequate, at least for the wagon (everything is sedan-centric). I've removed the front and rear speakers. I plan to replace the fronts and rear mids with coaxes and leave the rear tweeters unplugged and in place. I'm hoping that MB Quart will drop in. They are pretty reasonably priced on ebay, so I may go that route, but I will check with a local MBQ dealer first. Now, two more questions - 1) where's the easiest place to steal keyed power to turn on the radio? Ignition switch? 2) Suggestions for running new speaker wires to the rear doors? I'm thinking down the floor towards the ECU/hood release, then under the door sill, up the B pillar and into the accordion boot. From QSHIPQ at aol.com Thu Jul 18 09:34:26 2002 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: how do you get the damn doors off? Message-ID: <1a3.5670948.2a680fd2@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] 4mm allen to be exact. SJ In a message dated 7/17/02 1:49:55 PM Central Daylight Time, knotnook@traverse.com writes: > As usual, with Bentley, you need to "snoop" instead of look for > reasonably-organized info: Try interior trim, rear door: 70.5, which says > the armrest is held on with allen head screws that need loosening. From QSHIPQ at aol.com Thu Jul 18 09:45:29 2002 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: The 2079 Tool Message-ID: <9.2b1b8f35.2a681269@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The reason it is "starred" is so that the torque wrench can be parrellel with 2079. Which it must be to get an accurate torque reading. Scott J In a message dated 7/17/02 4:38:21 PM Central Daylight Time, knotnook@traverse.com writes: For anyone else with the tool: Bob Rosato came up with the answer: The odd hole in the handle of the 2079 accepts a 3/4" drive. So you could use it with a 3/4" drive torque wrench. Or a 3/4" drive breaker bar. It's an odd hole because it's made to accept the 3/4" drive at several different angles. Kind of like those famous Audi triple square bolts, eh? From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Jul 18 10:40:02 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: [V8] Re: The 2079 Tool In-Reply-To: <9.2b1b8f35.2a681269@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020718093758.00d75100@traverse.com> -- So the male Tang (what DO you call the part that fits into the female part of a socket drive or extension bar?) on a torque wrench may not be parallel with the long arm of the wrench? At 08:45 AM 07/18/2002 -0400, QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote: >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >The reason it is "starred" is so that the torque wrench can be parrellel with >2079. Which it must be to get an accurate torque reading. > >Scott J >In a message dated 7/17/02 4:38:21 PM Central Daylight Time, >knotnook@traverse.com writes: > > >For anyone else with the tool: Bob Rosato came up with the answer: The >odd hole in the handle of the 2079 accepts a 3/4" drive. So you could use >it with a 3/4" drive torque wrench. Or a 3/4" drive breaker bar. It's an >odd hole because it's made to accept the 3/4" drive at several different >angles. Kind of like those famous Audi triple square bolts, eh? > >_______________________________________________ >Audifans v8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:v8@audifans.com >Unsubscribe or Manage your list options at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 -- From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Jul 18 10:53:04 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: damn doors are off In-Reply-To: <3D36AECD.BAAA5173@audifans.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020718094226.00d72360@traverse.com> -- On mine, the rear door armrest fasteners are 4 mm, not 4.5 mm. In fact it's 4 mm throughout, just like Scott reported. I wonder if there was a midyear change in fasteners???? At 08:04 AM 07/18/2002 -0400, Dan Simoes wrote: >It's a 4.5mm allen as Taka mentioned. Thanks for the tips. >The mechanism is maddening if you've never seen it before. I'll try to >take pictures. > >I was surprised to find there are no amps on the rear speakers - the >amps must be buried somewhere. I find the Bentley for this car is very >inadequate, at least for the wagon (everything is sedan-centric). > >I've removed the front and rear speakers. I plan to replace the fronts >and rear mids with coaxes and leave the rear tweeters unplugged and in >place. I'm hoping that MB Quart will drop in. They are pretty >reasonably priced on ebay, so I may go that route, but I will check with >a local MBQ dealer first. > >Now, two more questions - > >1) where's the easiest place to steal keyed power to turn on the radio? >Ignition switch? >2) Suggestions for running new speaker wires to the rear doors? I'm >thinking down the floor towards the ECU/hood release, then under the >door sill, up the B pillar and into the accordion boot. > > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From Chewy4000 at aol.com Thu Jul 18 11:49:26 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Samco hose kit. Message-ID: <4E52250D.0206DE73.022A5BF8@aol.com> Did anybody notice The price of the kit from ND. After a month of looking around and GPs and everything, I find this: http://www.vwaftermarket.com/catalog/engine_perf/default.asp?product_group=samco_hoses&action=step_two&title=Samco%20Hoses Wich is way cheaper than anybody. And yeah I did call to confirm. So if there is still some people down to order some hopefully cheaper this might be the place. Chewy 91 200TQ20v Sedan 24psi and still alive From pjrose at frontiernet.net Thu Jul 18 13:41:06 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Correct 3B distributor rotor PN? In-Reply-To: <20020718035900.53179.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20020718035900.53179.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: At 8:59 PM -0700 7/17/02, Dave wrote: > >to see a whole shpeel about attaching it with loctite >etc. "shpeel"--->spiel -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From brianl at starsys.com Thu Jul 18 11:55:49 2002 From: brianl at starsys.com (Brian Link) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice Message-ID: <01C22E49.AE08D560.brianl@starsys.com> I'm in the process changing out a clutch (my coupe gt not the 200 20v) and it made me wonder if any of you have advice on what they wear to cover there hair while they are lying on their garage floor. I tried baseball hats but the brim would always be in my way. Next I tried a bandana, worked better but it kept coming off. I know that this is a stupid question, but I am being serious. I keep shampooing but the dirt doesn't come out...... Brian (nappy head) Link Boulder, CO. From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Jul 18 14:35:05 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice In-Reply-To: <01C22E49.AE08D560.brianl@starsys.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020718133242.00d785a0@traverse.com> -- At 10:55 AM 07/18/2002 -0600, Brian Link wrote: >I'm in the process changing out a clutch (my coupe gt not the 200 20v) and >it made me wonder if any of you have advice on what they wear to cover >there hair while they are lying on their garage floor. I tried baseball >hats but the brim would always be in my way. Next I tried a bandana, >worked better but it kept coming off. I know that this is a stupid >question, but I am being serious. I keep shampooing but the dirt doesn't >come out...... There's a product made for painters. Stretchy cotton (I think that's the fabric) hood with an opening for your eyes you're supposed to cover with goggles. I've purchased them in paint stores, but you might also find them in automotive parts stores that sell paints. They're more easily washed than thick hair, I imagine (since mine was never curly and has been thinning for the last 30 or so years). -- From ingo at waratap.com Thu Jul 18 14:38:25 2002 From: ingo at waratap.com (Ingo D. Rautenberg) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice References: <01C22E49.AE08D560.brianl@starsys.com> Message-ID: <012801c22e81$ebb32400$9865fea9@ingo> Shower cap? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Link" To: <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002 12:55 PM Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice > I'm in the process changing out a clutch (my coupe gt not the 200 20v) and > it made me wonder if any of you have advice on what they wear to cover > there hair while they are lying on their garage floor. I tried baseball > hats but the brim would always be in my way. Next I tried a bandana, > worked better but it kept coming off. I know that this is a stupid > question, but I am being serious. I keep shampooing but the dirt doesn't > come out...... > > > Brian (nappy head) Link > Boulder, CO. > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.377 / Virus Database: 211 - Release Date: 7/15/2002 From mallick at mail.utexas.edu Thu Jul 18 14:21:48 2002 From: mallick at mail.utexas.edu (mallick@mail.utexas.edu) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? Message-ID: <1027016508.3d37073c927f9@webmailapp2.cc.utexas.edu> The hydraulic hose which runs from the pump to the reservoir is showing signs weeping and cracking near the reservoir connection. Can I just cut the hose back a bit and splice in a new piece to connect to the reservoir, or should I replace the whole thing? It seems to be simply the supply hose for the pump, so it shouldn't have to take any pressure. I hate to spend big $$$ for a new one if I don't really need to (the BB philosophy). Any BTDT? John Mallick 200q20v 148.8K and counting From pjrose at frontiernet.net Thu Jul 18 15:23:41 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice In-Reply-To: <01C22E49.AE08D560.brianl@starsys.com> References: <01C22E49.AE08D560.brianl@starsys.com> Message-ID: At 10:55 AM -0600 7/18/02, Brian Link wrote: >I'm in the process changing out a clutch (my coupe gt not the 200 20v) and >it made me wonder if any of you have advice on what they wear to cover >there hair while they are lying on their garage floor. What hair? I've tried wearing a knitted "watch hat", but although it pulls down over my ears it still manages to slide off (too) frequently. Perhaps a nice, snug, old baseball cap with the brim cut off will work. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From thequattroking at yahoo.com Thu Jul 18 12:34:57 2002 From: thequattroking at yahoo.com (Shayne) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice In-Reply-To: <01C22E49.AE08D560.brianl@starsys.com> Message-ID: I spent many years on this one. Then "LIGHTBULB", a baseball cap sans bill. Works great! Shayne P. Currently, Spokane, WA. June, Oakland, CA. Enough Audis to give plenty of headaches. Parting: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 > From: Brian Link > Organization: Starsys Research > Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 10:55:49 -0600 > To: "'200q20v@audifans.com'" <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice > > I'm in the process changing out a clutch (my coupe gt not the 200 20v) and > it made me wonder if any of you have advice on what they wear to cover > there hair while they are lying on their garage floor. I tried baseball > hats but the brim would always be in my way. Next I tried a bandana, > worked better but it kept coming off. I know that this is a stupid > question, but I am being serious. I keep shampooing but the dirt doesn't > come out...... > > > Brian (nappy head) Link > Boulder, CO. > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Jul 18 16:31:41 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? In-Reply-To: <1027016508.3d37073c927f9@webmailapp2.cc.utexas.edu> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020718151958.00d75540@traverse.com> -- I bought a new one after trimming the end didn't make it look any better a while after I'd cleaned it off. Turned out it probably was getting wet from the pump leaking on the underside. But the cover was all mushy too. New one was around $30, I think. That and the hose from the brake booster probably are the cheapest on the system. At 01:21 PM 07/18/2002 -0500, mallick@mail.utexas.edu wrote: >The hydraulic hose which runs from the pump to the reservoir is showing signs >weeping and cracking near the reservoir connection. Can I just cut the hose >back a bit and splice in a new piece to connect to the reservoir, or should >I replace the whole thing? It seems to be simply the supply hose for the >pump, so it shouldn't have to take any pressure. I hate to spend big $$$ for >a new one if I don't really need to (the BB philosophy). > >Any BTDT? > >John Mallick >200q20v 148.8K and counting >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From sidman at montereynet.net Thu Jul 18 13:38:51 2002 From: sidman at montereynet.net (George Sidman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Removal...... References: <20020718161106.466087BF@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <3D37194B.AFDE25B8@montereynet.net> Eyvind: Pull the left front wheel and remove the arch trim panel. Takes about 10 minutes and makes the radiator job trivial. You can also; 1) clean out all the accumulated organic junk aft of the wheel well, and, 2) have access to parts of the engine room you never knew existed. -- George Sidman, President Monterey Network Center sidman@montereynet.net 831. 657. 1500 From pjrose at frontiernet.net Thu Jul 18 16:51:02 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? In-Reply-To: <1027016508.3d37073c927f9@webmailapp2.cc.utexas.edu> References: <1027016508.3d37073c927f9@webmailapp2.cc.utexas.edu> Message-ID: At 1:21 PM -0500 7/18/02, mallick@mail.utexas.edu wrote: >The hydraulic hose which runs from the pump to the reservoir is showing signs >weeping and cracking near the reservoir connection. Can I just cut the hose >back a bit and splice in a new piece to connect to the reservoir, or should >I replace the whole thing? It shouldn't be necessary to "splice" a new piece. Just cut off the minimum--i.e., the section that's now stretched over the nipple--and there should be enough slack to clamp the hose back on. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From pjrose at frontiernet.net Thu Jul 18 16:54:20 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Removal...... In-Reply-To: <3D37194B.AFDE25B8@montereynet.net> References: <20020718161106.466087BF@www.audifans.com> <3D37194B.AFDE25B8@montereynet.net> Message-ID: At 12:38 PM -0700 7/18/02, George Sidman wrote: >Eyvind: Pull the left front wheel and remove the arch trim panel. >Takes about 10 minutes and makes the radiator job trivial. You can >also; 1) clean out all the accumulated organic junk aft of the wheel >well, and, 2) have access to parts of the engine room you never knew >existed. ...like the chamber for dilithium crystals? Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Thu Jul 18 14:38:00 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? In-Reply-To: <1027016508.3d37073c927f9@webmailapp2.cc.utexas.edu> Message-ID: You can cut the hose off of the banjo end and use any hose with hose clamps. Bernie > From: mallick@mail.utexas.edu > Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 13:21:48 -0500 (CDT) > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? > > The hydraulic hose which runs from the pump to the reservoir is showing signs > weeping and cracking near the reservoir connection. Can I just cut the hose > back a bit and splice in a new piece to connect to the reservoir, or should > I replace the whole thing? It seems to be simply the supply hose for the > pump, so it shouldn't have to take any pressure. I hate to spend big $$$ for > a new one if I don't really need to (the BB philosophy). > > Any BTDT? > > John Mallick > 200q20v 148.8K and counting > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From pjrose at frontiernet.net Thu Jul 18 18:07:54 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 1:38 PM -0700 7/18/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >You can cut the hose off of the banjo end and use any hose with hose clamps. > >Bernie That (replacement with new rubber) is probably the better idea, since the old hose usually has become so hardened that clamping tightly enough (to prevent leakage at the reservoir) may not be possible,--even after cutting off the end piece. Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Thu Jul 18 15:18:58 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: To clarify, any other hose, new or used, the old one will be too short after sawing off the upper crimped joint to the banjo fitting. Bernie > From: Phil Rose > Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 17:07:54 -0400 > To: Bernie Benz > Cc: , 200q20V mailing list <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Re: Hydraulic hose fix? > > At 1:38 PM -0700 7/18/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >> You can cut the hose off of the banjo end and use any hose with hose clamps. >> >> Bernie > > That (replacement with new rubber) is probably the better idea, since > the old hose usually has become so hardened that clamping tightly > enough (to prevent leakage at the reservoir) may not be > possible,--even after cutting off the end piece. > > Phil > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From dak at rochester.rr.com Thu Jul 18 18:27:03 2002 From: dak at rochester.rr.com (DAK) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? References: Message-ID: <3D3732A7.8080005@rochester.rr.com> In the past, I've done this with the turbo coolant line on my MC engined 87 5KTQ. The compressed air line didn't last more than a year in that heat. A piece of fuel line from the local parts store worked for many years (till car was sold). Since this is the suction line, is wall rigidity a concern? (What replacement have people used before?) David Phil Rose wrote: > At 1:38 PM -0700 7/18/02, Bernie Benz wrote: > >> You can cut the hose off of the banjo end and use any hose with hose >> clamps. >> >> Bernie > > > That (replacement with new rubber) is probably the better idea, since > the old hose usually has become so hardened that clamping tightly > enough (to prevent leakage at the reservoir) may not be > possible,--even after cutting off the end piece. > > Phil > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > From John.Chaplen at mercer.com Thu Jul 18 20:29:24 2002 From: John.Chaplen at mercer.com (Chaplen, John) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice Message-ID: Ok this may sound like an Odd way to do it, but why not find an old but clean piece of carpet and lay that on the ground. I have done that in the past and it works really well and much more comfortable too. -----Original Message----- From: Shayne [mailto:thequattroking@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, July 18, 2002 11:35 AM To: Brian Link; '200q20v@audifans.com' Subject: Re: Shade tree mechanic advice I spent many years on this one. Then "LIGHTBULB", a baseball cap sans bill. Works great! Shayne P. Currently, Spokane, WA. June, Oakland, CA. Enough Audis to give plenty of headaches. Parting: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 > From: Brian Link > Organization: Starsys Research > Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 10:55:49 -0600 > To: "'200q20v@audifans.com'" <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice > > I'm in the process changing out a clutch (my coupe gt not the 200 20v) and > it made me wonder if any of you have advice on what they wear to cover > there hair while they are lying on their garage floor. I tried baseball > hats but the brim would always be in my way. Next I tried a bandana, > worked better but it kept coming off. I know that this is a stupid > question, but I am being serious. I keep shampooing but the dirt doesn't > come out...... > > > Brian (nappy head) Link > Boulder, CO. > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __ ********************************************** This e-mail and any attachments may be confidential or legally privileged. If you received this message in error or are not the intended recipient, you should destroy the e-mail message and any attachments or copies, and you are prohibited from retaining, distributing disclosing or using any information contained herein. Please inform us of the erroneous delivery by return e-mail. Thank you for your cooperation. ********************************************** ec03/04 From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Thu Jul 18 18:06:39 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Shade tree mechanic advice Message-ID: <20020719000639.97837.qmail@web12404.mail.yahoo.com> I've used these "spray socks" for years when under the car (and, more frequently, when under the house or in the rafters with the dust & cobwebs). ' get 'em from paint stores and some hardware stores. ----------------------------------------------------- There's a product made for painters. Stretchy cotton (I think that's the fabric) hood with an opening for your eyes you're supposed to cover with goggles. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Thu Jul 18 18:27:04 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Radiator Removal...... Message-ID: <20020719002704.4482.qmail@web12405.mail.yahoo.com> ' you mean we owe the unparallelled performance of these cars to ... chrystals??? ----------------------------------------------------- ...like the chamber for dilithium crystals? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Thu Jul 18 18:44:25 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? In-Reply-To: <3D3732A7.8080005@rochester.rr.com> Message-ID: Think just a little about the application, David. The pump input fitting is 6" at most above the fluid level in the reservoir. You're worried about what? I've been running with a piece of heater hose of unknown previous history for years now. Bernie > From: DAK > Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 17:27:03 -0400 > To: Phil Rose > Cc: Bernie Benz , mallick@mail.utexas.edu, 200q20V > mailing list <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Re: Hydraulic hose fix? > > In the past, I've done this with the turbo coolant line on my MC engined > 87 5KTQ. The compressed air line didn't last more than a year in that > heat. A piece of fuel line from the local parts store worked for many > years (till car was sold). Since this is the suction line, is wall > rigidity a concern? (What replacement have people used before?) > > David From Chrisellenhem at aol.com Thu Jul 18 23:00:09 2002 From: Chrisellenhem at aol.com (Chrisellenhem@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Power Windows (only 3...) dead..? Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Anybody have any idea why only 3 of my windows (both rear and the front passenger side) suddenly fail to function? Driver's window & sunroof function fine. Problem appears intermittent (thermal issue? mid-90s today..) as the 3 windows did not operate this AM, nor after work ~4:30pm but then upon trying them again ~6pm, they functioned, but then failed to function yet again 2 hrs later! Owner's manual indicates that the windows have self-resetting circuit breakers. I have done no other diagnosis but thought I'd throw it out to the group. A search of the recent archives (I recalled a similar issue...) found a problem affecting only the rear windows back in March, but there were noisy indicators prior. My situation sounds different in that I've never had any issues/indicators in the >1.5yrs I've owned it. All help/suggestions are appreciated.. thanks. Chris Hemberger Hebron, CT From Chewy4000 at aol.com Thu Jul 18 23:46:33 2002 From: Chewy4000 at aol.com (Chewy4000@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Power Windows (only 3...) dead..? Message-ID: <4FB87618.3701B559.022A5BF8@aol.com> In a message dated Thu, 18 Jul 2002 9:00:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, Chrisellenhem writes: > > > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Anybody have any idea why only 3 of my windows (both rear and the front > passenger side) suddenly fail to function? There tired? Just playing. Chewy From scrosbie at integraonline.com Fri Jul 19 00:13:27 2002 From: scrosbie at integraonline.com (Steve Crosbie) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose recall References: <20020718081512.50172.qmail@web10404.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3D3791E7.1070304@integraonline.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Justin, I think all you need to do is prove ownership and mention the recall number (Safety recall LM - to replace rear speaker amplifiers on "some" '91-'92 Audi 100, 200 and V8's w/Bose system). They are required to perform the repairs. The letter mentioned two phone numbers to call if the Audi dealer fails to remedy the defect free of charge -- Audi customer relations @ (800) 822-2834 and the NHTSA @ (888) 327-4236. Along with the recall letter was a prepaid post card that asked for new owner address if known - sounds like they are making every effort to find current owners. Good luck. Steve Justin Olson wrote: >Since I haven't recieved a notification yet, could I >just go to the dealer( sunset audi/porsche ) tell them >they need to fix the recalls? > -- From Djdawson2 at aol.com Fri Jul 19 02:03:29 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Power Windows (only 3...) dead..? Message-ID: <170.10c239c4.2a68f7a1@aol.com> Chris, Sounds like you may be up against the dying driver's door harness... you know, that bundle of wires that passes from the driver's door to the car body inside a little accordion rubber boot. After opening and closing the door for 12 years, the wires eventually start to break, leading to all sorts of failures. Try holding one of the nonfunctioning window switches in the down position, while slowly opening and closing the door. If it begins to work, you're in for a fun little splicing session. HTH, Dave From keith at maddock.com Fri Jul 19 02:25:16 2002 From: keith at maddock.com (Keith Maddock) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: FS: Set of 4 17" O*Z Mito Modular wheels Message-ID: <00ba01c22ee4$ab158290$c7652844@keithdesktop3> For Sale: Qty 4: 17" O*Z Mito Modular (two peice) wheels. 112x5 bolt pattern, ET35 offset. Have installed on a 91 200q20v and 93 S4 with no clearance issues. For more details and many pictures, go to http://keith.maddock.com/oz/ I'm looking for the best offer over $750 by the end of Monday. (actual shipping charges extra) Email keith@maddock.com with offers or questions. Cheers, Keith From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Fri Jul 19 02:51:18 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Anyone tried a Stratmosphere TBV? Message-ID: <20020719085118.40437.qmail@web12405.mail.yahoo.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Does anyone have any feedback on Stratmosphere's "Hyperboost" turbo bypass = valves? ' saw their ad in the Summer Quattro Quarterly and was curious. Y= ou can see them at http://www.stratmosphere.com/hyperboost.htm . Steve --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes From knotnook at traverse.com Fri Jul 19 08:48:18 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Hydraulic hose fix? In-Reply-To: References: <3D3732A7.8080005@rochester.rr.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719074644.00d89a50@traverse.com> -- At 05:44 PM 07/18/2002 -0700, Bernie Benz wrote: >Think just a little about the application, David. The pump input fitting is >6" at most above the fluid level in the reservoir. You're worried about >what? > >I've been running with a piece of heater hose of unknown previous history >for years now. You're not concerned about the interior of the heater hose breaking down and plugging the screen in the banjo bolt? -- From r at 66-169-160-96.ftwrth.tx.charter.com Fri Jul 19 08:41:57 2002 From: r at 66-169-160-96.ftwrth.tx.charter.com (Rich Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Power Windows (only 3...) dead..? References: Message-ID: <3D380915.4060506@66-169-160-96.ftwrth.tx.charter.com> Chrisellenhem@aol.com wrote: > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Anybody have any idea why only 3 of my windows (both rear and the front > passenger side) suddenly fail to function? Driver's window & sunroof > function fine. Problem appears intermittent (thermal issue? mid-90s today..) > as the 3 windows did not operate this AM, nor after work ~4:30pm but then > upon trying them again ~6pm, they functioned, but then failed to function yet > again 2 hrs later! Owner's manual indicates that the windows have > self-resetting circuit breakers. I have done no other diagnosis but thought > I'd throw it out to the group. A search of the recent archives (I recalled a > similar issue...) found a problem affecting only the rear windows back in > March, but there were noisy indicators prior. My situation sounds different > in that I've never had any issues/indicators in the >1.5yrs I've owned it. > All help/suggestions are appreciated.. thanks. > > Chris Hemberger > Hebron, CT > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > I would be willing to bet a significant amount of money that the wires between the body and the drivers door are broken and or breaking. Pull back the rubber boot protecting the harness and see for sure. r From peschulz at cisco.com Fri Jul 19 10:55:44 2002 From: peschulz at cisco.com (Peter Schulz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Boost and TDC and distributors In-Reply-To: <14a.fcfaf48.2a488c22@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719093024.03932c30@millcity.cisco.com> Gents: Car is a 1991 200 20v (3b) Before I replaced the distributor, I set the engine to #1 cylinder TDC by rotating the engine so that the old distributor rotor aligned with the small slot in the distributor body (approximately 8'oclock for #1), pulling #1 plug and inserting a straw (visual indication of TDC) and setting the flywheel 0 and hashmark in the bell transmission window. I removed the distributor and installed the new one, tried to make sure the rotor and the body hashmark lined up. Good news is that the car starts up - bad news is that I get a 2113 code (dist alignment) I loosened the distributor mounting bolt and turned the distributor clockwise and counter clockwise. Car still starts and throws a 2113. What gives? -Peter At 10:52 AM 6/24/2002 -0400, QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote: >-- > > >Bernie: The distributor in the turbo cars is a single window type. The >distributor reference signal/flywheel reference signal is verified ONLY on >startup, after which the distributor reference signal is ignored, and the car >operates on rpm and flywheel only (per Mike's post). > > >HTH > >Scott Justusson >QSHIPQ Performance Tuning From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Fri Jul 19 09:14:24 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Boost and TDC and distributors In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719093024.03932c30@millcity.cisco.com> Message-ID: It is very difficult to accurately use the dist rotor as your alignment pointer because of the parallax errors involved. There is an embossed line on the top surface of the Hall rotor directly under the hot end of the dist rotor that is in the same plane as the TDC mark on the edge of the dist. Try aligning these two marks for higher accuracy. Bernie > From: Peter Schulz > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 09:55:44 -0400 > To: QSHIPQ@aol.com > Cc: b.m.benz@prodigy.net, dans@audifans.com, 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: Re: Boost and TDC and distributors > > Gents: > > Car is a 1991 200 20v (3b) > Before I replaced the distributor, I set the engine to #1 cylinder TDC by > rotating the engine so that the old distributor rotor aligned with the small > slot in the distributor body (approximately 8'oclock for #1), pulling #1 plug > and inserting a straw (visual indication of TDC) and setting the flywheel 0 > and hashmark in the bell transmission window. > > I removed the distributor and installed the new one, tried to make sure the > rotor and the body hashmark lined up. > > Good news is that the car starts up - bad news is that I get a 2113 code (dist > alignment) > > I loosened the distributor mounting bolt and turned the distributor clockwise > and counter clockwise. > Car still starts and throws a 2113. > > What gives? > -Peter > > > > At 10:52 AM 6/24/2002 -0400, QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote: >> -- >> >> >> Bernie: The distributor in the turbo cars is a single window type. The >> distributor reference signal/flywheel reference signal is verified ONLY on >> startup, after which the distributor reference signal is ignored, and the car >> operates on rpm and flywheel only (per Mike's post). >> >> >> HTH >> >> Scott Justusson >> QSHIPQ Performance Tuning > From dans at audifans.com Fri Jul 19 12:23:14 2002 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: audio update Message-ID: <3D382EE2.6FFBCFB3@audifans.com> In case anyone cares. I purchased a set of MB Quart coaxes as it was clear my JBLs would not fit. I used the 4" up front, 5.25" in the rear. The fronts I had to trim a bit (deleting 2 of the 4 "ears") and wiggle a lot, but they drop right in as stock. Oh, the factory speaker wire connectors are a perfect fit on the MBQs. The rears were a bit tougher. I couldn't easily detach the rear speaker from its grille (they are glued) so I ended up dropping the speaker in from the top (ie, what you see) and using the MBQ grill. So, it's a little two tone, but should work well. I overpaid for the speakers at a local store - on ebay they are well under $200 for the set. Still haven't hooked up the rear speakers yet as I have to run new wires or figure out the stock wiring. Lastly, I strongly suspect that the speakers in the 91 non-bose are MBQ, at least the rears, as the construction and design is very similar (but cheaper construction). The guy at the stereo store agreed with me. From alan.sullivan at lmco.com Fri Jul 19 13:01:08 2002 From: alan.sullivan at lmco.com (Sullivan, Alan) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: 200Q20V Specialist in Northern VA Message-ID: <5CEB53F93FCED411B49300508BF905EC06EF97C4@emss09m07.beth.lmco.com> Fellow Listers, I'm looking for a service technician in Northern Virginia who is intimately familiar with the 91 200Q 20V. My experience with one of the two large local dealers left me believing their techs can read the service pubs, but have no insight into the peculiarities of our cars (likely due to lack of frequent opportunities to work on them). Any suggestions? Thanks, Alan Sullivan Northern Va. From hah at alumni.rice.edu Fri Jul 19 11:26:08 2002 From: hah at alumni.rice.edu (Henry A Harper III) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Power Windows (only 3...) dead..? Message-ID: <01C22F0E.B2C27050.hah@alumni.rice.edu> This same thing happened to my car shortly after I got it...the three non-driver's windows do share a ground wire (driver's is separately grounded because of auto-down feature) that is a little fatter than most of the other wires in the hinge bundle and so it breaks before the other ones. It's only a matter of time, fix them all before they do break. If you are lucky the windows might go intermittent first and you can get them in the state you would prefer them to be with a little persistence... HTH Henry Harper http://www.henry-harper.com hah@alumni.rice.edu 1991 200 quattro, 116k, both front door hinge-area wire bundles replaced 1988 GTI 16v, 229k, no wires in doors On Thursday, July 18, 2002 8:00 PM, Chrisellenhem@aol.com [SMTP:Chrisellenhem@aol.com] wrote: > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Anybody have any idea why only 3 of my windows (both rear and the front > passenger side) suddenly fail to function? Driver's window & sunroof > function fine. Problem appears intermittent (thermal issue? mid-90s today..) > as the 3 windows did not operate this AM, nor after work ~4:30pm but then > upon trying them again ~6pm, they functioned, but then failed to function yet > again 2 hrs later! Owner's manual indicates that the windows have > self-resetting circuit breakers. I have done no other diagnosis but thought > I'd throw it out to the group. A search of the recent archives (I recalled a > similar issue...) found a problem affecting only the rear windows back in > March, but there were noisy indicators prior. My situation sounds different > in that I've never had any issues/indicators in the >1.5yrs I've owned it. > All help/suggestions are appreciated.. thanks. From rakesh.brennig at geaccess.com Thu Jul 18 08:54:28 2002 From: rakesh.brennig at geaccess.com (Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess)) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose Recall Message-ID: <6185A2273621D411B7E000508BCF6ABC05DAC091@msxden03corpge.access.com> At the end of June I called both AoA and the local dealer to inquire specifically about any known problems with the rear speakers. Of course neither group had the foggiest of what I was talking about. Suddenly, with the official word out both AoA and the local dealer are now aware, but I was not told what would be done. I called again and was told that recall is to the effect of inspecting the unit and replacing if defective. This would not be a blanket replacement of the unit. Is this possible? Can one simply replace a part (capacitor?) in the sealed unit? Or if the units seem good upon inspection what about 2 years from now? The dealer seemed puzzled by this whole recall and was not too descriptive. Since I did not get a copy of the letter, does it say more than what I was told? This is a great list - I would not have known of this issue otherwise. Regards, Rakesh From Hull at cardinalpartners.com Fri Jul 19 13:07:25 2002 From: Hull at cardinalpartners.com (Brandon Hull) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Beaver Run Motorsports Complex Message-ID: <40AB9F0F0845494CA1C11DF140D13E37261267@cardinalsbs.CARDINALNJ1.cardinalpartners.com> Just for general interest, here is the very first writeup I have seen of the new track near Pittsburgh. If only Englishtown and Rausch Creek would get going... BrandonH eS2 911 track beast > -----Original Message----- > From: Vern Anderson [mailto:vernon_anderson@yahoo.com] > Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 11:49 AM > To: 'E36M3 List'; 'UUC BMW List'; club-racing-list@bimmers.com > Subject: [CR] Beaver Run Motorsports Complex > > > Hello everyone, > > I had the opportunity to run a few hundred laps Wednesday and Thursday > at the brand new Beaver Run North track outside Pittsburgh. > The overall > facility is still rough (entrance road isn't fully paved, no water or > electricity, porta-johns only, etc.) and the track doesn't > have curbing > or tire walls yet, but the North track is basically completed. The > track is very fast and very fun, is 1.53 miles long with 12 turns. > There is a slower tighter section (turns 1-7) and a wide-open section > (8-12). The tighter section is still quite fast, in my E36M3 I never > got out of the powerband in 3rd and the wide-open section is extremely > fast (I was topping out 4th in two sections). The surface is > fantastic, > seems to be very easy on tires. The track is hard on brakes, as you > have two 125+mph sections (into 1 and into 10) where you have to > threshold brake and go into a 3rd gear section. There are two other > minor braking zones (into 4 and into 5), and in the heat of summer it > all adds up to a track that is hard on brakes. Overall, it is a > horsepower track, not particularly technical, but the tighter section > still requires a good line to go full throttle. Most BMW's > will do well > there because of the need for good brakes and a few very key > transition > areas (1-2 and 5-6-7). I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a > new challenge. I have no officially affiliation with the > track, just a > Pittsburgh track junkie happy to have local track option other than > Nelson. > > Vern Anderson > > > From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Jul 19 13:42:29 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: audio update In-Reply-To: <3D382EE2.6FFBCFB3@audifans.com> Message-ID: <000e01c22f43$45bf8990$0d42fea9@newpc> Really? Weird, my speakers in the 5ktq were Nokia and I've also seen Blaupunkt. The Bose speakers are, of course, Bose. Glad to hear you could fit 4" in the dash. Personally, I wouldn't use the factory wiring, although I might if I knew I was going to re-wire w/ outboard amp later on. Nice thing about the Avant is that you can use that side compartment to house an amp, CD changer and small sub, if you do it right, IIRC. Taka From mallick at mail.utexas.edu Fri Jul 19 12:47:59 2002 From: mallick at mail.utexas.edu (mallick@mail.utexas.edu) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: A/C Flooding me out Message-ID: <1027097279.3d3842bf44d17@webmailapp1.cc.utexas.edu> Well, not really flooding me out, but I am shipping a bit of water into the passenger compartment. I've tried roto-rooting the drain line, but there's a Y-connection in there that indicates that it drains from two different locations. To get around the Y I need to put the car on jack stands and try again. The weird thing is that when I park the car, water drains like crazy from the A/C on the underside...including a location where there is no drain hose. I never had this problem in upstate NY, but now that I'm down here in Texas, the A/C gets a real workout. Any ideas? Can I get to things from inside? Thanks in advance, John Mallick 200q20v, 148K From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Jul 19 13:51:48 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Beaver Run Motorsports Complex In-Reply-To: <40AB9F0F0845494CA1C11DF140D13E37261267@cardinalsbs.CARDINALNJ1.cardinalpartners.com> Message-ID: <001001c22f44$934ace30$0d42fea9@newpc> Brandon- Tell me about it- if Englishtown (where's Rausch Creek?) got done, I know I'd be at the track a lot more, much less of a drive than LRP, the Glen or Summit. Taka From knotnook at traverse.com Fri Jul 19 14:32:37 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: A/C Flooding me out In-Reply-To: <1027097279.3d3842bf44d17@webmailapp1.cc.utexas.edu> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719131849.00d85e70@traverse.com> -- There is a small drain tube plumbed into the bottom of the evaporator box that's supposed to drain the evap box. The bottom of the evap box has a regular pattern of drains that lead to the tube. That drain pokes through the sheetmetal in the HVAC space beneath the rain diverter just a few inches toward the passenger side of the car from the larger drain for the entire HVAC space that you describe in your "roto-rooting". There's no way I can see to clear the small drain unless you can find its terminus somewhere above the tranny and toward the passenger side, I'd guess, and then maybe use air pressure to blow into it. The larger drain is just a rubber grommet that has a lower molded end that squeezes together in normal conditions but will expand to the size of its upper opening if pushed upon. It's only maybe three inches long, so if you've poked something into it, it should be clear. It's right on top of the tranny, I believe, so you may be poking thru and reaching the top of the tranny, making it seem that the drain has an obstruction. Is water standing in the bottom of the HVAC area? If not, the water you're getting may be collecting in the evap box and overflowing through the recirculation door above the glove compartment box. That door will be open during A/C use so the A/C is working on already cooled air from the cabin instead of hot air from outside. If the evap box is icing up, you have some other problem I have no understanding of. At 11:47 AM 07/19/2002 -0500, mallick@mail.utexas.edu wrote: >Well, not really flooding me out, but I am shipping a bit of water into the >passenger compartment. I've tried roto-rooting the drain line, but there's a >Y-connection in there that indicates that it drains from two different >locations. To get around the Y I need to put the car on jack stands and try >again. > >The weird thing is that when I park the car, water drains like crazy from the >A/C on the underside...including a location where there is no drain hose. I >never had this problem in upstate NY, but now that I'm down here in Texas, the >A/C gets a real workout. > >Any ideas? Can I get to things from inside? > >Thanks in advance, > >John Mallick >200q20v, 148K >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From knotnook at traverse.com Fri Jul 19 14:42:44 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:19 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: <6185A2273621D411B7E000508BCF6ABC05DAC091@msxden03corpge.ac cess.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719133730.00d8a950@traverse.com> -- The letter describes "Safety Recall LM" as "Replace Rear Speaker Amplifiers" and explains that "It is possible that an electrolytic capacitor in one of the rear speaker amplif9iers could leak electrolyte, which could cause overheating and result in a fire." It says Audi has supplied dealers with new amplifiers and instructions on how to remove and replace amplifiers. At 07:54 AM 07/18/2002 -0600, Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess) wrote: >At the end of June I called both AoA and the local dealer to inquire >specifically about any known problems with the rear speakers. Of course >neither group had the foggiest of what I was talking about. > >Suddenly, with the official word out both AoA and the local dealer are now >aware, but I was not told what would be done. I called again and was told >that recall is to the effect of inspecting the unit and replacing if >defective. This would not be a blanket replacement of the unit. Is this >possible? Can one simply replace a part (capacitor?) in the sealed unit? >Or if the units seem good upon inspection what about 2 years from now? The >dealer seemed puzzled by this whole recall and was not too descriptive. >Since I did not get a copy of the letter, does it say more than what I was >told? > >This is a great list - I would not have known of this issue otherwise. > >Regards, Rakesh >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- From dak at rochester.rr.com Fri Jul 19 14:47:37 2002 From: dak at rochester.rr.com (DAK) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: recall LM Message-ID: <3D3850B9.3030003@rochester.rr.com> I talked to Holtz Audi (Rochester dealer) this morning and they service guy told me that there is a delay with customs on the parts for the recall. Says something about more delays there than usual. But, he encouraged me to call every couple of days to see how things arre going. At least he is upbeat about it! I've waited this long, what is another couple of weeks... David PS. anyone else get parts? From pjrose at frontiernet.net Fri Jul 19 15:18:53 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719133730.00d8a950@traverse.com> References: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719133730.00d8a950@traverse.com> Message-ID: I believe Rakesh's dealer is mistaken. My reading of the recall notice is that if your car is in the specified group (and has the Bose amplified rear speakers) the amps in those speakers (not the entire speakers) _will_ be replaced. There is no "inspection" and "if defective", etc, etc. Of course perhaps your dealer feels he needs to do an inspection to determine if you're ineligible because the rear Bose speakers have been replaced with another make. Phil At 1:42 PM -0400 7/19/02, Kneale Brownson wrote: >-- >The letter describes "Safety Recall LM" as "Replace Rear Speaker >Amplifiers" and explains that "It is possible that an electrolytic >capacitor in one of the rear speaker amplif9iers could leak electrolyte, >which could cause overheating and result in a fire." It says Audi has >supplied dealers with new amplifiers and instructions on how to remove and >replace amplifiers. > >At 07:54 AM 07/18/2002 -0600, Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess) wrote: > >>At the end of June I called both AoA and the local dealer to inquire >>specifically about any known problems with the rear speakers. Of course >>neither group had the foggiest of what I was talking about. >> >>Suddenly, with the official word out both AoA and the local dealer are now >>aware, but I was not told what would be done. I called again and was told >>that recall is to the effect of inspecting the unit and replacing if >>defective. This would not be a blanket replacement of the unit. Is this >>possible? Can one simply replace a part (capacitor?) in the sealed unit? >>Or if the units seem good upon inspection what about 2 years from now? The >>dealer seemed puzzled by this whole recall and was not too descriptive. >>Since I did not get a copy of the letter, does it say more than what I was >>told? >> >>This is a great list - I would not have known of this issue otherwise. >> >>Regards, Rakesh >>_______________________________________________ >>200q20v mailing list >>200q20v@audifans.com >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >-- > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From thequattroking at yahoo.com Fri Jul 19 12:32:46 2002 From: thequattroking at yahoo.com (Shayne) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: recall LM In-Reply-To: <3D3850B9.3030003@rochester.rr.com> Message-ID: GRRRRRRRRR. So sick of this recall stuff. My local dealer wants me to drive the car in. 40 min. from me. They will then decide if it is needing to be fixed based on whether the capacitors are leaking. I have the recall paper in hand. Says nothing about deciding if the caps are leaking. It say REPLACE the amps. A little ticked at the dealer, Shayne P. Currently, Spokane, WA. June, Oakland, CA. Enough Audis to give plenty of headaches. Parting: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 > From: DAK > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 13:47:37 -0400 > To: 200q20v@audifans.com > Subject: recall LM > > I talked to Holtz Audi (Rochester dealer) this morning and they service > guy told me that there is a delay with customs on the parts for the > recall. Says something about more delays there than usual. But, he > encouraged me to call every couple of days to see how things arre going. > At least he is upbeat about it! I've waited this long, what is another > couple of weeks... > > David > > PS. anyone else get parts? > > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From knotnook at traverse.com Fri Jul 19 16:15:22 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: recall LM In-Reply-To: <3D3850B9.3030003@rochester.rr.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020719151257.00a86920@traverse.com> -- At 01:47 PM 07/19/2002 -0400, DAK wrote: >I talked to Holtz Audi (Rochester dealer) this morning and they service >guy told me that there is a delay with customs on the parts for the >recall. Says something about more delays there than usual. But, he >encouraged me to call every couple of days to see how things arre going. >At least he is upbeat about it! I've waited this long, what is another >couple of weeks... > >David > >PS. anyone else get parts? My local dealer (Traverse City in Michigan's NW Lower Peninsula) said last week Audi had sent them an initial supply of whatever's needed to do five cars. I was the first to call, so they didn't know what they had. My service is scheduled next Tuesday because they were booked up until that time. -- From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Fri Jul 19 13:34:56 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: Message-ID: The recall notice also states: "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred out of pocket expenses for a rear amplifier replacement, and we would be pleased to review your request for possible reimbursement. Include any receipts you have." In lue of writing a hard letter, I have talked with their CR rep. asking for a direct e-mail address, was refered to their web site CS page, through which I asked for a direct e-mail address so that I could retain a copy of my contacts. This address is: Auditalk Subject: Safety Recall LM. My thoughts are that, we who have replaced our amplified rear speakers over the years because of actual or potential damage to our cars due to the defective amps, and inasmuch as we as well as AOA have been aware of this safety hazard for many (10 or 12) years, and AOA has until recently refused to acknowlege the hazard, thereby forcing us to correct the hazard by our own means and at our own expense, should be elegiable for a cash reimbursement under Safety Recall LM of an amount equal to the cost of parts and labor for the current LM dealer recall service, without having to furnish receipts for same, inasmuch as AOA has been negligent in its long delay in acknowleging the hazard to which they have knowingly subjected us. My request to Brett, or anyone else that has a full knowledge and understanding of the history of this problem, is that he compose an e-mail form letter addressed to both AOA and the NHTSA that explicitly and sucinctly describes this issue and makes this point, for the individual e-mail use of us 200-20V listers. Thanks in advance, Bernie Bernie > From: Phil Rose > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:18:53 -0400 > To: Kneale Brownson > Cc: "Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess)" , > "'200q20v@audifans.com'" <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Re: Bose Recall > > I believe Rakesh's dealer is mistaken. My reading of the recall > notice is that if your car is in the specified group (and has the > Bose amplified rear speakers) the amps in those speakers (not the > entire speakers) _will_ be replaced. > > There is no "inspection" and "if defective", etc, etc. Of course > perhaps your dealer feels he needs to do an inspection to determine > if you're ineligible because the rear Bose speakers have been > replaced with another make. > > Phil > > > > At 1:42 PM -0400 7/19/02, Kneale Brownson wrote: >> -- >> The letter describes "Safety Recall LM" as "Replace Rear Speaker >> Amplifiers" and explains that "It is possible that an electrolytic >> capacitor in one of the rear speaker amplif9iers could leak electrolyte, >> which could cause overheating and result in a fire." It says Audi has >> supplied dealers with new amplifiers and instructions on how to remove and >> replace amplifiers. >> >> At 07:54 AM 07/18/2002 -0600, Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess) wrote: >> >>> At the end of June I called both AoA and the local dealer to inquire >>> specifically about any known problems with the rear speakers. Of course >>> neither group had the foggiest of what I was talking about. >>> >>> Suddenly, with the official word out both AoA and the local dealer are now >>> aware, but I was not told what would be done. I called again and was told >>> that recall is to the effect of inspecting the unit and replacing if >>> defective. This would not be a blanket replacement of the unit. Is this >>> possible? Can one simply replace a part (capacitor?) in the sealed unit? >>> Or if the units seem good upon inspection what about 2 years from now? The >>> dealer seemed puzzled by this whole recall and was not too descriptive. >>> Since I did not get a copy of the letter, does it say more than what I was >>> told? >>> >>> This is a great list - I would not have known of this issue otherwise. >>> >>> Regards, Rakesh >>> _______________________________________________ >>> 200q20v mailing list >>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >> -- >> >> _______________________________________________ >> 200q20v mailing list >> 200q20v@audifans.com >> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From dbpulvino at hotmail.com Fri Jul 19 14:17:05 2002 From: dbpulvino at hotmail.com (Derek Pulvino) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall Message-ID: I have an appointment for the 1 of Aug to get this done on my car. Dealer has the parts in stock, so doesn't appear to be an issue out here. Now the only thing is to see if I can finagle some kind of out of car for the day compensation. Derek P _________________________________________________________________ Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From dbpulvino at hotmail.com Fri Jul 19 14:19:37 2002 From: dbpulvino at hotmail.com (Derek Pulvino) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: "random question" (pun intended) Message-ID: While I'm pretty sure I know the answer going in... Does anybody who has the factory CD changer in our cars know if there is a way to do a random playback that randomizes every song on every CD simultaneously, not just plays all the songs on a single CD randomly and then does the same on the next CD... Derek P _________________________________________________________________ Join the world=92s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Fri Jul 19 14:26:51 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall Message-ID: <20020719202651.29802.qmail@web12407.mail.yahoo.com> I wonder if they plan to charge for the inspection, like they do when one of their batteries fails prematurely. The cost of the labor to have them "check the charging system, etc." is roughly the cost of a new battery, even if you got it directly from a parts dept, not a service dept. Steve ----------------------------------------------------- ... perhaps your dealer feels he needs to do an inspection ... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From jtm305 at bellsouth.net Fri Jul 19 17:33:43 2002 From: jtm305 at bellsouth.net (Jeffrey Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall Message-ID: <000801c22f63$93355950$6401a8c0@jtm> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] My car was done today (Georgia). Have not picked it up yet but will post what was performed once I get it back. -- From termite at rocketmail.com Fri Jul 19 15:00:36 2002 From: termite at rocketmail.com (jim catterson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: 200 avant wanted Message-ID: <20020719210036.62780.qmail@web12306.mail.yahoo.com> i have been lurking for a few months and it is finally time to buy...do any of you list savants know of any 20v avants for sale? i just looked at one in ct and it was quite rusty in spots w/ a fine layer of corrosion on everything under the hood...NE winter salt. the one on ebay is in tulsa, ok, a long way from ny where i am. if anyone knows of one in the ne, give me a shout ===== cheers jim catterson __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Autos - Get free new car price quotes http://autos.yahoo.com From pjrose at frontiernet.net Fri Jul 19 18:16:17 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What are you smoking, Bernie? First of all, expecting reimbursement without any proof of expense is just plain silliness. Secondly, what leads you to conclude that Audi had knowledge of a safety hazard from these speakers for 10 or 12 years? That would be from the "get-go", so to speak. It's not likely that any serious problems started to appear so early. Not that I've heard about, anyway. The Nissan recall on Q45 cars with Bose amplified speakers was issued around 1999. My own letter to Audi of America was sent in December 2000. Steve Bednarski's fire ocurred in mid-'96 and his buy-back settlement with AoA did not happen until mid-'97. From my information, Audi must've had reason to take a serious look at the issue by some time in 1997. That's 5 years ago, at most. In my opinion they could and _should_ have acted at the same time as Nissan, which would be no later than1999/2000. But knowing about this as a safety hazard for 10 or 12 years is not a reasonable supposition. Third: Why will you not not write a "real" letter to AoA? It would have far greater significance, IMO, than e-mail. Finally, when the war's been won, so to speak, it appears you're asking Brett (or someone else) to write now on your behalf. Are you completely unaware of the efforts that have already been made by some of us in contacting Audi and NHTSA? Did *you* ever write a letter to AoA and NHTSA a couple of years ago--when I made a request-- here and on the qlist--for listers to do so? Too little, too late, Bernie. Phil At 12:34 PM -0700 7/19/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >The recall notice also states: >"Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred out of pocket >expenses for a rear amplifier replacement, and we would be pleased to review >your request for possible reimbursement. Include any receipts you have." > >In lue of writing a hard letter, I have talked with their CR rep. asking for >a direct e-mail address, was refered to their web site CS page, through >which I asked for a direct e-mail address so that I could retain a copy of >my contacts. This address is: Auditalk Subject: Safety >Recall LM. > >My thoughts are that, we who have replaced our amplified rear speakers over >the years because of actual or potential damage to our cars due to the >defective amps, and inasmuch as we as well as AOA have been aware of this >safety hazard for many (10 or 12) years, and AOA has until recently refused >to acknowlege the hazard, thereby forcing us to correct the hazard by our >own means and at our own expense, should be elegiable for a cash >reimbursement under Safety Recall LM of an amount equal to the cost of parts >and labor for the current LM dealer recall service, without having to >furnish receipts for same, inasmuch as AOA has been negligent in its long >delay in acknowleging the hazard to which they have knowingly subjected us. > >My request to Brett, or anyone else that has a full knowledge and >understanding of the history of this problem, is that he compose an e-mail >form letter addressed to both AOA and the NHTSA that explicitly and >sucinctly describes this issue and makes this point, for the individual >e-mail use of us 200-20V listers. > >Thanks in advance, > >Bernie > >Bernie > >> From: Phil Rose >> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:18:53 -0400 >> To: Kneale Brownson >> Cc: "Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess)" , >> "'200q20v@audifans.com'" <200q20v@audifans.com> >> Subject: Re: Bose Recall >> >> I believe Rakesh's dealer is mistaken. My reading of the recall >> notice is that if your car is in the specified group (and has the >> Bose amplified rear speakers) the amps in those speakers (not the >> entire speakers) _will_ be replaced. >> >> There is no "inspection" and "if defective", etc, etc. Of course >> perhaps your dealer feels he needs to do an inspection to determine >> if you're ineligible because the rear Bose speakers have been > > replaced with another make. >> >> Phil >> >> >> >> At 1:42 PM -0400 7/19/02, Kneale Brownson wrote: >>> -- >>> The letter describes "Safety Recall LM" as "Replace Rear Speaker >>> Amplifiers" and explains that "It is possible that an electrolytic >>> capacitor in one of the rear speaker amplif9iers could leak electrolyte, >>> which could cause overheating and result in a fire." It says Audi has >>> supplied dealers with new amplifiers and instructions on how to remove and >>> replace amplifiers. >>> >>> At 07:54 AM 07/18/2002 -0600, Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess) wrote: >>> >>>> At the end of June I called both AoA and the local dealer to inquire >>>> specifically about any known problems with the rear speakers. Of course >>>> neither group had the foggiest of what I was talking about. >>>> >>>> Suddenly, with the official word out both AoA and the local dealer are now >>>> aware, but I was not told what would be done. I called again and was told >>>> that recall is to the effect of inspecting the unit and replacing if >>>> defective. This would not be a blanket replacement of the unit. Is this >>>> possible? Can one simply replace a part (capacitor?) in the sealed unit? >>>> Or if the units seem good upon inspection what about 2 years >>>>from now? The >>>> dealer seemed puzzled by this whole recall and was not too descriptive. >>>> Since I did not get a copy of the letter, does it say more than what I was >>>> told? >>>> >>>> This is a great list - I would not have known of this issue otherwise. >>>> >>>> Regards, Rakesh >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> 200q20v mailing list >>>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >>> -- >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> 200q20v mailing list >>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >> >> -- >> >> Phil Rose >> Rochester, NY >> mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net >> _______________________________________________ >> 200q20v mailing list >> 200q20v@audifans.com >> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Fri Jul 19 16:05:36 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Apparently, I touched your upset button! I admitted that I didn't know any details of what I was talking about, but I have been aware of the problems since joining this list and that there was no satisfaction from Audi. If the original amplified speakers are no longer in the car, their replacements are proof of an expense greater than the cost of this current Audi recall, and the replacementof which may well have been influenced by Audi's refusal to acknowlege a safety hazard. Using 12V caps in a 14.5 V system is not safe design, originating at day one, IMO. Further, I have little faith in the PO. They just lost a Bentley set that I had shipped. The real war has not been won. Only the war of attrition has been won by Audi, inasmuch as there are apparently few of the hazardous amplifiers still on the road. Bernie > From: Phil Rose > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 17:16:17 -0400 > To: Bernie Benz > Cc: Brett Dikeman , 200q20V mailing list > <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Re: Bose Recall > > What are you smoking, Bernie? > > First of all, expecting reimbursement without any proof of expense is > just plain silliness. > > Secondly, what leads you to conclude that Audi had knowledge of a > safety hazard from these speakers for 10 or 12 years? That would be > from the "get-go", so to speak. It's not likely that any serious > problems started to appear so early. Not that I've heard about, > anyway. The Nissan recall on Q45 cars with Bose amplified speakers > was issued around 1999. My own letter to Audi of America was sent in > December 2000. Steve Bednarski's fire ocurred in mid-'96 and his > buy-back settlement with AoA did not happen until mid-'97. From my > information, Audi must've had reason to take a serious look at the > issue by some time in 1997. That's 5 years ago, at most. In my > opinion they could and _should_ have acted at the same time as > Nissan, which would be no later than1999/2000. But knowing about this > as a safety hazard for 10 or 12 years is not a reasonable supposition. > > Third: Why will you not not write a "real" letter to AoA? It would > have far greater significance, IMO, than e-mail. > > Finally, when the war's been won, so to speak, it appears you're > asking Brett (or someone else) to write now on your behalf. Are you > completely unaware of the efforts that have already been made by some > of us in contacting Audi and NHTSA? Did *you* ever write a letter to > AoA and NHTSA a couple of years ago--when I made a request-- here and > on the qlist--for listers to do so? > > Too little, too late, Bernie. > > Phil > > At 12:34 PM -0700 7/19/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >> The recall notice also states: >> "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred out of pocket >> expenses for a rear amplifier replacement, and we would be pleased to review >> your request for possible reimbursement. Include any receipts you have." >> >> In lue of writing a hard letter, I have talked with their CR rep. asking for >> a direct e-mail address, was refered to their web site CS page, through >> which I asked for a direct e-mail address so that I could retain a copy of >> my contacts. This address is: Auditalk Subject: Safety >> Recall LM. >> >> My thoughts are that, we who have replaced our amplified rear speakers over >> the years because of actual or potential damage to our cars due to the >> defective amps, and inasmuch as we as well as AOA have been aware of this >> safety hazard for many (10 or 12) years, and AOA has until recently refused >> to acknowlege the hazard, thereby forcing us to correct the hazard by our >> own means and at our own expense, should be elegiable for a cash >> reimbursement under Safety Recall LM of an amount equal to the cost of parts >> and labor for the current LM dealer recall service, without having to >> furnish receipts for same, inasmuch as AOA has been negligent in its long >> delay in acknowleging the hazard to which they have knowingly subjected us. >> >> My request to Brett, or anyone else that has a full knowledge and >> understanding of the history of this problem, is that he compose an e-mail >> form letter addressed to both AOA and the NHTSA that explicitly and >> sucinctly describes this issue and makes this point, for the individual >> e-mail use of us 200-20V listers. >> >> Thanks in advance, >> >> Bernie >> >> Bernie >> >>> From: Phil Rose >>> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:18:53 -0400 >>> To: Kneale Brownson >>> Cc: "Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess)" , >>> "'200q20v@audifans.com'" <200q20v@audifans.com> >>> Subject: Re: Bose Recall >>> >>> I believe Rakesh's dealer is mistaken. My reading of the recall >>> notice is that if your car is in the specified group (and has the >>> Bose amplified rear speakers) the amps in those speakers (not the >>> entire speakers) _will_ be replaced. >>> >>> There is no "inspection" and "if defective", etc, etc. Of course >>> perhaps your dealer feels he needs to do an inspection to determine >>> if you're ineligible because the rear Bose speakers have been >>> replaced with another make. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> >>> >>> At 1:42 PM -0400 7/19/02, Kneale Brownson wrote: >>>> -- >>>> The letter describes "Safety Recall LM" as "Replace Rear Speaker >>>> Amplifiers" and explains that "It is possible that an electrolytic >>>> capacitor in one of the rear speaker amplif9iers could leak electrolyte, >>>> which could cause overheating and result in a fire." It says Audi has >>>> supplied dealers with new amplifiers and instructions on how to remove and >>>> replace amplifiers. >>>> >>>> At 07:54 AM 07/18/2002 -0600, Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess) wrote: >>>> >>>>> At the end of June I called both AoA and the local dealer to inquire >>>>> specifically about any known problems with the rear speakers. Of course >>>>> neither group had the foggiest of what I was talking about. >>>>> >>>>> Suddenly, with the official word out both AoA and the local dealer are now >>>>> aware, but I was not told what would be done. I called again and was told >>>>> that recall is to the effect of inspecting the unit and replacing if >>>>> defective. This would not be a blanket replacement of the unit. Is this >>>>> possible? Can one simply replace a part (capacitor?) in the sealed unit? >>>>> Or if the units seem good upon inspection what about 2 years >>>>> from now? The >>>>> dealer seemed puzzled by this whole recall and was not too descriptive. >>>>> Since I did not get a copy of the letter, does it say more than what I was >>>>> told? >>>>> >>>>> This is a great list - I would not have known of this issue otherwise. >>>>> >>>>> Regards, Rakesh >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> 200q20v mailing list >>>>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >>>> -- >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> 200q20v mailing list >>>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >>> >>> -- >>> >>> Phil Rose >>> Rochester, NY >>> mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net >>> _______________________________________________ >>> 200q20v mailing list >>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From mikemilr at blackfoot.net Fri Jul 19 17:18:45 2002 From: mikemilr at blackfoot.net (Mike Miller) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall References: Message-ID: <007801c22f72$418e0980$0200a8c0@mike> > > Secondly, what leads you to conclude that Audi had knowledge of a > > safety hazard from these speakers for 10 or 12 years? That would be > > from the "get-go", so to speak. It's not likely that any serious > > problems started to appear so early. Not that I've heard about, > > anyway. The Nissan recall on Q45 cars with Bose amplified speakers > > was issued around 1999. I seem to recall that Mitsubishi did recall much earlier than 1999. Maybe 1997/8. I don't think I had my car very long when I first heard about this and I bought it in June'96. I am also pretty sure my wife's 91 Caprice with Bose in it has the same damn rear speakers - and they are not functioning. mike miller helmville mt From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Jul 19 22:19:44 2002 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: recall LM In-Reply-To: <3D3850B9.3030003@rochester.rr.com> Message-ID: <000701c22f8b$8823ea90$0d42fea9@newpc> You know, this is pretty funny, considering that the amps are Bose- American-made and/or sourced. This is also one of the very few parts on the car that is English size for hardware and thread pitch. Taka -----Original Message----- From: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com [mailto:200q20v-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of DAK Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 1:48 PM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: recall LM I talked to Holtz Audi (Rochester dealer) this morning and they service guy told me that there is a delay with customs on the parts for the recall. Says something about more delays there than usual. But, he encouraged me to call every couple of days to see how things arre going. At least he is upbeat about it! I've waited this long, what is another couple of weeks... David PS. anyone else get parts? _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From Zoot531 at aol.com Fri Jul 19 22:28:41 2002 From: Zoot531 at aol.com (Zoot531@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: CD changer... Message-ID: <80.1ea20c52.2a6a16c9@aol.com> In addition to this CD Changer thread... Does anyone know that the code "E-02" on the changer remote means? I've contacted AOA and they say to contact Bose...Wrote Bose and of course they said to call AOA. My CD Changer has not functioned for some time, atleast 2 years. Any help here would be great Adam Chinchiolo '91 200q20v sedan From Djdawson2 at aol.com Sat Jul 20 01:28:37 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Cyl head reinstall... no boost Message-ID: <32.2a1e03d4.2a6a40f5@aol.com> Hey ya'll, Well, got the head on, new everything including a distributor with metal gear. The car starts and runs fine, however, I've got zip for boost. I disconnected the pressure line from the WGFV... boost. From time to time when starting it acts a little like it is preigniting, stalling the starter motor almost completely. Anyone have any clues or guesses? I don't have any sort of reader to check fault codes, and I've looked into the obvious stuff like plumbing and bypass valve. I don't have any leaks. What would tell this thing to eliminate boost completely? It isn't just low, it is nonexistent. Could this be distributor alignment? Thanks for any help, Dave From SuffolkD at aol.com Sat Jul 20 01:32:02 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Hair cover Message-ID: <4c.e9d3f4c.2a6a41c2@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I saw this girl in a bar take a condom and stretch it over her head ( she had no gaudy nails ) then she pulled in over her nose so she could "Inflate it". seemed kinda clever except that ....... she.... kinda .............passed out.................... :-X -Scott in BOSTON lol In a message dated 7/18/02 8:38:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 200q20v-request@audifans.com writes: > made me wonder if any of you have advice on what they wear to cover > > From morpheus0213 at yahoo.com Fri Jul 19 23:19:59 2002 From: morpheus0213 at yahoo.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Samco hose kit. In-Reply-To: <4E52250D.0206DE73.022A5BF8@aol.com> Message-ID: <20020720051959.66973.qmail@web11006.mail.yahoo.com> damn i wish u wrote that 2 days ago :( --- Chewy4000@aol.com wrote: > Did anybody notice The price of the kit from ND. > After a month of looking around and GPs and > everything, I find this: > http://www.vwaftermarket.com/catalog/engine_perf/default.asp?product_group=samco_hoses&action=step_two&title=Samco%20Hoses > > Wich is way cheaper than anybody. > And yeah I did call to confirm. > > So if there is still some people down to order some > hopefully cheaper this might be the place. > > Chewy > 91 200TQ20v Sedan > 24psi and still alive > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com From morpheus0213 at yahoo.com Fri Jul 19 23:24:01 2002 From: morpheus0213 at yahoo.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Correct 3B distributor rotor PN? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20020720052401.69824.qmail@web11005.mail.yahoo.com> "Phil"-------->Jackass --- Phil Rose wrote: > At 8:59 PM -0700 7/17/02, Dave wrote: > > > >to see a whole shpeel about attaching it with > loctite > >etc. > > "shpeel"--->spiel > -- > > Phil Rose > Rochester, NY > mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Sat Jul 20 02:13:05 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: CD changer... Message-ID: <20020720081305.47644.qmail@web12405.mail.yahoo.com> As a matter of fact, I do. I get this error about once a year, including a few days ago. The fix is on p.6 of the "CD Changer Operation Instructions", P/N WSA 540 791 21. I believe it means the changer is trying to return a CD to a position in the 6-pack cassette that is already occupied. The changer sometimes apparently forgets which position it got its currently-playing CD from. The fix is to insert an empty casette into the changer, let it return the currently-playing CD into whatever slot it thinks it got it from, then eject the casette and refill it as you wish. Or, alternately, a slightly simpler technique might work: eject the casssette and note which position is vacant. Remove the two adjacent CDs, reinsert, and see if the changer will unload the current CD into one of the adjacent slots. A few days ago I watched through the little clear plastic window of the cassette and noticed that one of the CDs adjacent to the current empty position moved when the changer tried to unload its current CD into that position, so I just vacated that one slot and voila, success. Good luck, and if this fix works, and if you haven't used the changer for 2 years for only this reason, ... now don't take this wrong ..., give yourself a dope slap heard round the net for not asking sooner. TSSSCCCHHHH!!! Good luck, Steve ----------------------------------------------------- ... Does anyone know that the code "E-02" on the changer remote means? ... My CD Changer has not functioned for some time, atleast 2 years. ... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com From jaycnoyes at hotmail.com Sat Jul 20 06:43:22 2002 From: jaycnoyes at hotmail.com (jay noyes) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: CD changer... Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] E-02 means A disc is in the player mechanism Solution: Press the magazine eject button, and insert an empty magazine ----- Original Message ----- From: Zoot531@aol.com Sent: Friday, July 19, 2002 9:37 PM To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: CD changer... In addition to this CD Changer thread... Does anyone know that the code "E-02" on the changer remote means? I've contacted AOA and they say to contact Bose...Wrote Bose and of course they said to call AOA. My CD Changer has not functioned for some time, atleast 2 years. Any help here would be great Adam Chinchiolo '91 200q20v sedan _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20vGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com From QSHIPQ at aol.com Sat Jul 20 09:47:05 2002 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Boost and TDC and distributors Message-ID: <19f.585822a.2a6ab5c9@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The best way to verify TDC, is to rotate the crank 2 turns and ck TDC again. My bet is that the window is slightly off in the distributor. In which case, you should move the distributor (1/16 of a turn is a LOT for this procedure) CW and CCW until you eliminate the code. The window on the distributor allows only +/- 2 degrees from it's TDC before it throws a code. You should get a mirror and make sure that the hash mark on the distributor window housing (not the rotor point) lines up with the notch on the outside of the distr. My best distr TDCs usually come from centering the gear slop after getting tdc (wiggle the distr shaft CW/CCW) Scott J In a message dated 7/19/02 8:54:51 AM Central Daylight Time, peschulz@cisco.com writes: Gents: Car is a 1991 200 20v (3b) Before I replaced the distributor, I set the engine to #1 cylinder TDC by rotating the engine so that the old distributor rotor aligned with the small slot in the distributor body (approximately 8'oclock for #1), pulling #1 plug and inserting a straw (visual indication of TDC) and setting the flywheel 0 and hashmark in the bell transmission window. I removed the distributor and installed the new one, tried to make sure the rotor and the body hashmark lined up. Good news is that the car starts up - bad news is that I get a 2113 code (dist alignment) I loosened the distributor mounting bolt and turned the distributor clockwise and counter clockwise. Car still starts and throws a 2113. What gives? -Peter From pjrose at frontiernet.net Sat Jul 20 15:26:03 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 3:05 PM -0700 7/19/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >Apparently, I touched your upset button! Yes, I'm afraid you did, and I'm sorry for my surly reply. I feel much better now. :-) >their replacements are proof of an expense greater than the cost >of this current Audi recall, and the replacementof which may well have been >influenced by Audi's refusal to acknowlege a safety hazard. Using 12V caps >in a 14.5 V system is not safe design, originating at day one, IMO. IMO, Audi is doing the recall not because the Bose amplifiers merely failed after many years, but because the Bose rear amps have a significant potential for causing fire. I would agree with your point about the poor design, but that issue could also apply to a many _other_ components that fail within a period of 4 to 12 years (brake accumulator, bypass valve, emergency brakes, fan fusible link,...). There are at least a couple of situations that would militate against compensation: (1) In some cases the speakers were replaced by non-Bose simply because owners were looking for "better" sound--well before any public knowledge of a safety hazard. Do these "audiophiles" deserve compensation? (2) In many cases where the speakers were replaced with Bose, it was because the amps failed (typically after 5 or 6 years) and created a squawking noise--without smoke or fire. Since those replacements were generally done well after the warranty expired, compensation was (and still is, IMO) not expected. I did one speaker replacement in that category during 1999 ($35 used). Naturally, anyone who can prove that their speakers did smoke and/or catch fire--and who subsequently replaced the speaker (whether with Bose or not)--certainly does deserve compensation, but I can't imagine they would not have already have had contact with AoA about this (i.e., or have some documentation--even just e-mail.) I would argue in favor of compensation for any owner who can prove that they replaced their Bose rear speakers (with a non-Bose speaker) at any time since about early 2000, which is well after the Nissan recall had been announced and Audi was contacted formally and asked to state a position in the matter. At that point in time, Audi of America should have been in possession of suficient information to take more positive action, and I think it should be assumed (whether true or not) that any speaker replacements shown to have been done in this period were because of a safety concern. >Further, I have little faith in the PO. They just lost a Bentley set that I >had shipped. That's a shame. But "little faith" might be extreme. I've lost the "complete faith" I once naively had, but it's not gone below the level of "limited" faith. >The real war has not been won. Only the war of attrition has been won by >Audi, inasmuch as there are apparently few of the hazardous amplifiers still >on the road. You have a point there. But I will be presenting them with four (Bose flamers) next week. :-( Phil > >> From: Phil Rose >> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 17:16:17 -0400 >> To: Bernie Benz >> Cc: Brett Dikeman , 200q20V mailing list >> <200q20v@audifans.com> >> Subject: Re: Bose Recall >> >> What are you smoking, Bernie? >> >> First of all, expecting reimbursement without any proof of expense is >> just plain silliness. >> >> Secondly, what leads you to conclude that Audi had knowledge of a >> safety hazard from these speakers for 10 or 12 years? That would be >> from the "get-go", so to speak. It's not likely that any serious >> problems started to appear so early. Not that I've heard about, >> anyway. The Nissan recall on Q45 cars with Bose amplified speakers >> was issued around 1999. My own letter to Audi of America was sent in >> December 2000. Steve Bednarski's fire ocurred in mid-'96 and his >> buy-back settlement with AoA did not happen until mid-'97. From my >> information, Audi must've had reason to take a serious look at the > > issue by some time in 1997. That's 5 years ago, at most. In my >> opinion they could and _should_ have acted at the same time as >> Nissan, which would be no later than1999/2000. But knowing about this >> as a safety hazard for 10 or 12 years is not a reasonable supposition. >> >> Third: Why will you not not write a "real" letter to AoA? It would >> have far greater significance, IMO, than e-mail. >> >> Finally, when the war's been won, so to speak, it appears you're >> asking Brett (or someone else) to write now on your behalf. Are you >> completely unaware of the efforts that have already been made by some >> of us in contacting Audi and NHTSA? Did *you* ever write a letter to >> AoA and NHTSA a couple of years ago--when I made a request-- here and >> on the qlist--for listers to do so? >> >> Too little, too late, Bernie. >> >> Phil >> >> At 12:34 PM -0700 7/19/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >>> The recall notice also states: >>> "Please write us at the address below, if you have incurred out of pocket >>> expenses for a rear amplifier replacement, and we would be >>>pleased to review >>> your request for possible reimbursement. Include any receipts you have." >>> >>> In lue of writing a hard letter, I have talked with their CR rep. >>>asking for >>> a direct e-mail address, was refered to their web site CS page, through >>> which I asked for a direct e-mail address so that I could retain a copy of >>> my contacts. This address is: Auditalk Subject: Safety > >> Recall LM. >>> >>> My thoughts are that, we who have replaced our amplified rear speakers over >>> the years because of actual or potential damage to our cars due to the >>> defective amps, and inasmuch as we as well as AOA have been aware of this >>> safety hazard for many (10 or 12) years, and AOA has until recently refused >>> to acknowlege the hazard, thereby forcing us to correct the hazard by our >>> own means and at our own expense, should be elegiable for a cash >>> reimbursement under Safety Recall LM of an amount equal to the >>>cost of parts >>> and labor for the current LM dealer recall service, without having to >>> furnish receipts for same, inasmuch as AOA has been negligent in its long >>> delay in acknowleging the hazard to which they have knowingly subjected us. >>> >>> My request to Brett, or anyone else that has a full knowledge and >>> understanding of the history of this problem, is that he compose an e-mail >>> form letter addressed to both AOA and the NHTSA that explicitly and >>> sucinctly describes this issue and makes this point, for the individual >>> e-mail use of us 200-20V listers. >>> >>> Thanks in advance, >>> >>> Bernie >>> >>> Bernie >>> >>>> From: Phil Rose >>>> Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 14:18:53 -0400 >>>> To: Kneale Brownson >>>> Cc: "Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess)" , >>>> "'200q20v@audifans.com'" <200q20v@audifans.com> >>>> Subject: Re: Bose Recall >>>> >>>> I believe Rakesh's dealer is mistaken. My reading of the recall >>>> notice is that if your car is in the specified group (and has the >>>> Bose amplified rear speakers) the amps in those speakers (not the >>>> entire speakers) _will_ be replaced. >>>> >>>> There is no "inspection" and "if defective", etc, etc. Of course >>>> perhaps your dealer feels he needs to do an inspection to determine >>>> if you're ineligible because the rear Bose speakers have been >>>> replaced with another make. >>>> >>>> Phil >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> At 1:42 PM -0400 7/19/02, Kneale Brownson wrote: >>>>> -- >>>>> The letter describes "Safety Recall LM" as "Replace Rear Speaker >>>>> Amplifiers" and explains that "It is possible that an electrolytic >>>>> capacitor in one of the rear speaker amplif9iers could leak electrolyte, >>>>> which could cause overheating and result in a fire." It says Audi has >>>>> supplied dealers with new amplifiers and instructions on how to >>>>>remove and >>>>> replace amplifiers. >>>>> >>>>> At 07:54 AM 07/18/2002 -0600, Brennig, Rakesh (CORP, GEAccess) wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> At the end of June I called both AoA and the local dealer to inquire >>>>>> specifically about any known problems with the rear speakers. Of course > >>>>> neither group had the foggiest of what I was talking about. >>>>>> >>>>>> Suddenly, with the official word out both AoA and the local >>>>>>dealer are now >>>>>> aware, but I was not told what would be done. I called again >>>>>>and was told >>>>>> that recall is to the effect of inspecting the unit and replacing if >>>>>> defective. This would not be a blanket replacement of the >>>>>>unit. Is this >>>>>> possible? Can one simply replace a part (capacitor?) in the >>>>>>sealed unit? >>>>>> Or if the units seem good upon inspection what about 2 years >>>>>> from now? The >>>>>> dealer seemed puzzled by this whole recall and was not too descriptive. >>>>>> Since I did not get a copy of the letter, does it say more >>>>>>than what I was >>>>>> told? >>>>>> >>>>>> This is a great list - I would not have known of this issue otherwise. >>>>>> >>>>>> Regards, Rakesh >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> 200q20v mailing list >>>>>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>>>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >>>>> -- >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> 200q20v mailing list >>>>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >>>> >>>> -- >>>> >>>> Phil Rose >>>> Rochester, NY >>>> mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> 200q20v mailing list >>>> 200q20v@audifans.com >>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v >> >> -- >> > > Phil Rose >> Rochester, NY >> mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net >> _______________________________________________ >> 200q20v mailing list >> 200q20v@audifans.com >> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue) '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red) mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From pjrose at frontiernet.net Sat Jul 20 15:28:30 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Hair cover In-Reply-To: <4c.e9d3f4c.2a6a41c2@aol.com> References: <4c.e9d3f4c.2a6a41c2@aol.com> Message-ID: At 12:32 AM -0400 7/20/02, SuffolkD@aol.com wrote: >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > >I saw this girl in a bar take a condom and stretch it over her head ( she had >no gaudy nails ) then she pulled in over her nose so she could "Inflate it". >seemed kinda clever except >that ....... >she.... >kinda >.............passed out.................... :-X >-Scott in BOSTON lol > I'm trying to visualize this, but I keep breaking out in laughter before a complete mental image forms. Could you have your camera handy next time? :-) Phil -- Phil Rose Rochester, NY mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net From dbpulvino at hotmail.com Sat Jul 20 12:59:43 2002 From: dbpulvino at hotmail.com (Derek Pulvino) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Boost and TDC and distributors (now rotor alignment and "special tools") Message-ID: Scott and/or anybody else that knows, I want to clarify, or more accurately confirm my assumption with some btdt info. With reference to the distributor alignment, the Audi "3223 special tool" will just align the rotor on the distributor with the TDC hash mark correct? In which case, it is unnecesary to the degree that your eyes are accurate? I want to make sure I know this, as there's going to be a number of people removing and reinstalling their distributors on their cars in the near future; as I'm part and parcel with this, I trying to anticipate problems to be averted. derek p age: 4 From: QSHIPQ@aol.com Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 08:47:05 EDT Subject: Re: Boost and TDC and distributors To: peschulz@cisco.com Cc: b.m.benz@prodigy.net, dans@audifans.com, 200q20v@audifans.com -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The best way to verify TDC, is to rotate the crank 2 turns and ck TDC again. My bet is that the window is slightly off in the distributor. In which case, you should move the distributor (1/16 of a turn is a LOT for this procedure) CW and CCW until you eliminate the code. The window on the distributor allows only +/- 2 degrees from it's TDC before it throws a code. You should get a mirror and make sure that the hash mark on the distributor window housing (not the rotor point) lines up with the notch on the outside of the distr. My best distr TDCs usually come from centering the gear slop after getting tdc (wiggle the distr shaft CW/CCW) Scott J In a message dated 7/19/02 8:54:51 AM Central Daylight Time, peschulz@cisco.com writes: _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From knotnook at traverse.com Sat Jul 20 16:04:34 2002 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Hair cover In-Reply-To: References: <4c.e9d3f4c.2a6a41c2@aol.com> <4c.e9d3f4c.2a6a41c2@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20020720150216.00d8eb20@traverse.com> -- At 02:28 PM 07/20/2002 -0400, Phil Rose wrote: >At 12:32 AM -0400 7/20/02, SuffolkD@aol.com wrote: >>-- >>[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >> >>I saw this girl in a bar take a condom and stretch it over her head ( she had >>no gaudy nails ) then she pulled in over her nose so she could "Inflate it". >>seemed kinda clever except >>that ....... >>she.... >>kinda >>.............passed out.................... :-X >>-Scott in BOSTON lol > >I'm trying to visualize this, but I keep breaking out in laughter >before a complete mental image forms. Could you have your camera >handy next time? :-) > >Phil The comedian Howie Mandel used to use this bit in his act. I don't know whether it was a condom or one of those balloons like they make animals out of. He'd roll it down to his mouth, take a huge gulp of air, roll it down to his neck and then "blow it up". -- From brett at cloud9.net Fri Jul 19 17:09:47 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: filler cap stall on 20v's Message-ID: Is the 20vt supposed to stall or at least stumble when the oil filler cap is removed? I seem to recall that "test" only applies to the 10vt's... B -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From brett at cloud9.net Sat Jul 20 18:01:52 2002 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose recall In-Reply-To: <3D3791E7.1070304@integraonline.com> References: <20020718081512.50172.qmail@web10404.mail.yahoo.com> <3D3791E7.1070304@integraonline.com> Message-ID: At 11:13 PM -0500 7/18/02, Steve Crosbie wrote: > I think all you need to do is prove ownership Yeah, I hear there's a huge problem these days with thieves breaking into cars and taking them into dealers for safety recalls :-) B -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com Sat Jul 20 20:34:46 2002 From: Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com (Vincenzo Basile) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: coolant temp.guage Message-ID: <002201c23046$0a9e84c0$4561c143@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hi list was wondering if any of you experienced your temp gauge working int= ermittently. I've changed the multifunction switch and its working more oft= en than before, but still intermittent,also sprayed electrical cleen on the= connector and seemed to work for a little bit, maybe 3 times of shutting t= he car on and off ,again only working intermittently .Do these connectors g= o bad(to the mfs) or could this be a ground problem in the instrument clust= er?If so were is that ground so I could resolder it? -- From nhvonhof at attbi.com Sat Jul 20 17:25:16 2002 From: nhvonhof at attbi.com (Neil Vonhof) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives Message-ID: <3D39F15C.D90C9E7F@attbi.com> Anybody ever use one of those fuel injector cleaners like STP that you add to your gas? If so, any opinions? Neil Vonhof Seattle '91 200q20v 140,000 miles From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Sat Jul 20 17:25:29 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: Message-ID: What would you do with four new amps on four 12 year old paper cone speakers? Do you expect great improvement? Now worth the effort, IMO. Bernie > From: Phil Rose > Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 14:26:03 -0400 > To: Bernie Benz > Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Re: Bose Recall > >> The real war has not been won. Only the war of attrition has been won by >> Audi, inasmuch as there are apparently few of the hazardous amplifiers still >> on the road. > > You have a point there. But I will be presenting them with four (Bose > flamers) next week. :-( > > Phil From Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com Sat Jul 20 20:37:30 2002 From: Bleaf1 at peoplepc.com (Vincenzo Basile) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: cd changer Message-ID: <002b01c23046$6bc1c460$4561c143@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] hi list my cd player reads EO2 wich means to empty the magazine(I have 2 but still cannot get cd to work) does anybody know why this is happening? -- From pjrose at frontiernet.net Sat Jul 20 20:36:37 2002 From: pjrose at frontiernet.net (Phil and Judy Rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Bose Recall In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 4:25 PM -0700 7/20/02, Bernie Benz wrote: >What would you do with four new amps on four 12 year old paper cone >speakers? Do you expect great improvement? Now worth the effort, IMO. ...only improved peace of mind. Oh yes--better sound, too, considering that my rear speakers have been disconnected for the past 18 months. ;-) Phil > > From: Phil Rose >> Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 14:26:03 -0400 >> To: Bernie Benz >> Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v@audifans.com> >> Subject: Re: Bose Recall >> >>> The real war has not been won. Only the war of attrition has been won by >>> Audi, inasmuch as there are apparently few of the hazardous >>>amplifiers still >>> on the road. >> >> You have a point there. But I will be presenting them with four (Bose >> flamers) next week. :-( >> >> Phil -- ********************************* * Phil & Judy Rose Rochester, NY * * mailto:pjrose@frontiernet.net * ********************************* From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Sun Jul 21 03:43:36 2002 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: filler cap stall on 20v's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5r0kjukoifo7p0siu8fnrco4q2h1ca6ahl@4ax.com> On Fri, 19 Jul 2002 16:09:47 -0400, you wrote: >Is the 20vt supposed to stall or at least stumble when the oil filler >cap is removed? I seem to recall that "test" only applies to the >10vt's... At least my 20vt seems to idle just fine whether the oil filler cap is removed or not.. And I have new breather hoses, new vacuum hoses etc. I think only the 10vt should stall, not the NA 10v, nor the 20vt.. -- E. Spangen '90 Audi 200TQ 20v From Doyt at buckeye-express.com Sat Jul 20 22:15:26 2002 From: Doyt at buckeye-express.com (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020720211133.00b73180@mail.buckeye-express.com> Techron rules! Don't know how it would work on such a low mileage car as yours, Neil. Doyt 87 5ktq 247,000 miles >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At 04:25 PM 7/20/2002 -0700, you wrote: Anybody ever use one of those fuel injector cleaners like STP that you add to your gas? If so, any opinions? Neil Vonhof Seattle '91 200q20v 140,000 miles From SuffolkD at aol.com Sat Jul 20 23:00:42 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: 2 Hair cover Message-ID: <8b.1b39a402.2a6b6fca@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Well, I have some good ones just not "broadcast" - no pun intended - appropriate. -Scott in BOSTON I saw this girl in a bar take a condom and stretch it over her head ( she had >>no gaudy nails ) then she pulled in over her nose so she could "Inflate it". >>seemed kinda clever except >>that ....... >>she.... >>kinda >>.............passed out.................... :-X >>-Scott in BOSTON lol > >I'm trying to visualize this, but I keep breaking out in laughter >before a complete mental image forms. Could you have your camera >handy next time? :-) From b.m.benz at prodigy.net Sat Jul 20 20:24:29 2002 From: b.m.benz at prodigy.net (Bernie Benz) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives In-Reply-To: <3D39F15C.D90C9E7F@attbi.com> Message-ID: They can't hurt much, except your wallet. But if it fixes a problem, vs. new injectors, your wallet will love you. Bernie > From: Neil Vonhof > Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 16:25:16 -0700 > To: 200q20v List <200q20v@audifans.com> > Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives > > Anybody ever use one of those fuel injector cleaners like STP that you > add to your gas? If so, any opinions? > Neil Vonhof > Seattle > '91 200q20v 140,000 miles > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From SuffolkD at aol.com Sat Jul 20 23:52:24 2002 From: SuffolkD at aol.com (SuffolkD@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Fuel Injector Cleaners Message-ID: <44.23148017.2a6b7be8@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Brand X has more oomph than brand B.......... Well (please correct me if I'm wrong) but Naptha is the ingredient to help in your problem. So yeah I've used STP and I'm told than Chevron is better but neither clue me onto who has more Naptha which is what cleans the "carbon/fuel" deposits. Mandatory 20V content: The balloon girl has 20V lungs / twice the breathing of a normal 10V girl. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! -Scott in BOSTON In a message dated 7/20/02 10:17:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 200q20v-request@audifans.com writes: > Anybody ever use one of those fuel injector cleaners like STP that you > add to your gas? If so, any opinions? > Neil Vonhof > From Zoot531 at aol.com Sun Jul 21 00:00:25 2002 From: Zoot531 at aol.com (Zoot531@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: E 02...my CD changer is confused Message-ID: <157.112876ec.2a6b7dc9@aol.com> Listers, Thanks for defining what E-02 on the changer remote means...however, I think my changer is confused. It gives the same error regardless of whether the CD's are in the changer or not. I tried it with CDs in and out...no change, still E-02. As far as I can tell from a visual inspection w/a flashlight and the cassette out, there are no CD's in the player. The nonfunctioning changer didn't bother me until I was told by a Circuit City stereo guy that I must replace all speakers if I wanted to install a non-bose aftermarket CD head unit. Suddenly, fixing the changer seems to be a wise economic (if not Audio-philic) choice. TIA. Adam Chinchiolo '91 200q20v (random observation...now that it's gotten to be 90-100 + degrees during the day...my car is making 1.8 bar consistently...curious) From Djdawson2 at aol.com Sun Jul 21 00:32:18 2002 From: Djdawson2 at aol.com (Djdawson2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: coolant temp.guage Message-ID: <60.23156037.2a6b8542@aol.com> Yeah, that connector gets pretty green inside, and eventually the wires break. The one for your gauge is the one that connects to the single post side of the multi switch (assuming you've got the 3 post variety). Or, if you look down on the connector, a have the plug oriented with the alignment notch at the bottom, it's the upper left receptacle. You can attach a piece of test wire into the plug and ground it. Turn the ignition on and check the gauge. You could then wiggle the connector around to see if you're loosing the connection. HTH, Dave From C1J1Miller at aol.com Sun Jul 21 01:09:43 2002 From: C1J1Miller at aol.com (C1J1Miller@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Boost and TDC and distributors (now Message-ID: <10d.150497c9.2a6b8e07@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 7/20/02 10:17:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Derek Pulvino writes: Scott and/or anybody else that knows, I want to clarify, or more accurately confirm my assumption with some btdt info. With reference to the distributor alignment, the Audi "3223 special tool" will just align the rotor on the distributor with the TDC hash mark correct? In which case, it is unnecesary to the degree that your eyes are accurate? I want to make sure I know this, as there's going to be a number of people removing and reinstalling their distributors on their cars in the near future; as I'm part and parcel with this, I trying to anticipate problems to be averted. derek p I've got the plastic tool; fits to the body of the distr. and holds the (correct small) rotor tightly in the correct location. ____________________________________________________ Chris Miller, Bolton MA USA, c1j1miller@aol.com '91 200q20v ==> http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html ____________________________________________________ From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Sun Jul 21 04:33:58 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: E 02...my CD changer is confused Message-ID: <20020721103358.95258.qmail@web12406.mail.yahoo.com> Well, since my first fix suggestion didn't work, you could, worst-case, exchange the unit for a remanufactured one. The P/N for which to get a price quote is 443 035 201 X (the X means remanufactured; a new unit is the same P/N but without the X). Also, the units might be remanufactured at the same location as the stock radio/cassette head, Midwest Electronics. Call 'em and see if they service the unit and if they know what the problem might be. I have 'em bookmarked at http://www.midwest-usa.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/mw_store/mw_shophome.html?E+mw_store; their phone # is on that web page. Good luck, Steve __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com From sbhack at attglobal.net Sun Jul 21 08:32:01 2002 From: sbhack at attglobal.net (Steve Hackett) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: CD changer... In-Reply-To: <80.1ea20c52.2a6a16c9@aol.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020721073003.00b9be30@pop1.attglobal.net> Just a BTDT - are the CD's in the cartridge right side up ? At 09:28 PM 7/19/2002 -0400, you wrote: >In addition to this CD Changer thread... Does anyone know that the code >"E-02" on the changer remote means? I've contacted AOA and they say to >contact Bose...Wrote Bose and of course they said to call AOA. My CD Changer >has not functioned for some time, atleast 2 years. Any help here would be >great > >Adam Chinchiolo >'91 200q20v sedan >_______________________________________________ >200q20v mailing list >200q20v@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From wolff at turboquattro.com Sun Jul 21 09:54:09 2002 From: wolff at turboquattro.com (wolff@turboquattro.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives References: <3D39F15C.D90C9E7F@attbi.com> Message-ID: <002d01c230ce$d9e9f560$6401a8c0@lexx> I have used Redline brand injector cleaner in a few "problem" cars over the years. Works particularly well on CIS cars to get the injectors flowing again. I have had a rough running car with two (out of 5 of course) white plugs go to nice brown on all 5 after a treatment. Not sure that it would do for Motronic. It certainly wouldn't hurt. I have heard of people sending their electric injectors in for flow testing and cleaning/blueprinting with good results. HTH, Wolff "Nobody can forget the sound." - Michele Mouton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil Vonhof" To: "200q20v List" <200q20v@audifans.com> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 4:25 PM Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives > Anybody ever use one of those fuel injector cleaners like STP that you > add to your gas? If so, any opinions? > Neil Vonhof > Seattle > '91 200q20v 140,000 miles > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From maximum at weetamoo.com Sun Jul 21 16:45:52 2002 From: maximum at weetamoo.com (maximum@weetamoo.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives Message-ID: <20020721154553.1545.h016.c001.wm@mail.weetamoo.com.criticalpath.net> I've used both Techron and Ventil Sauber with good returns... especially noticeable in cars I've aquired that have not used it regularly before. I believe that both are basically the same... a naptha based solvent. I use a can or two just before each oil change... in case the additive may "slip by" the rings... good theory? Also, bumps mileage by about 2mpg when its in the tank oddly enough. Royal aka 20RoT On Sun, 21 July 2002, wolff@turboquattro.com wrote > > I have used Redline brand injector cleaner in a few "problem" cars over the > years. Works particularly well on CIS cars to get the injectors flowing > again. I have had a rough running car with two (out of 5 of course) white > plugs go to nice brown on all 5 after a treatment. Not sure that it would do > for Motronic. It certainly wouldn't hurt. I have heard of people sending > their electric injectors in for flow testing and cleaning/blueprinting with > good results. > HTH, > Wolff > "Nobody can forget the sound." - Michele Mouton > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil Vonhof" > To: "200q20v List" <200q20v@audifans.com> > Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2002 4:25 PM > Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives > > > > Anybody ever use one of those fuel injector cleaners like STP that you > > add to your gas? If so, any opinions? > > Neil Vonhof > > Seattle > > '91 200q20v 140,000 miles > > > > _______________________________________________ > > 200q20v mailing list > > 200q20v@audifans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v > > _______________________________________________ > 200q20v mailing list > 200q20v@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v From clocke at snet.net Sun Jul 21 21:48:42 2002 From: clocke at snet.net (Chris) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Injector Cleaner Additives References: <20020721022010.582EA33D@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <3D3B5669.E1600805@snet.net> I swear by Techron, by Chevron. I've used it to clean fuel injector distributors when they're apart on my bench, and do a great job with the "laquer" that forms from gasoline. chris locke '91 2C20VTQ '86 4KCSTQ From sidman at montereynet.net Sun Jul 21 19:48:55 2002 From: sidman at montereynet.net (Sidman) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Injector Cleaner References: <20020721022010.582EA33D@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <3D3AF407.86715F5A@montereynet.net> I have been using Blau's Audi-approved additive for the last 200,000 miles. I put in one bottle about once a month. To date I have had no reason to check or suspect injector problems. My '91 200 TQW has 233,000 miles, and gets full boost. I have been using Injector Cleaner in all fuel injected cars I have owned, and have never had an injector problem. I must admit I don't know what would have happened if I had not used the cleaner.......... -- George Sidman, President Monterey Network Center sidman@montereynet.net www.montereynet.net 831.657.1500 From stadmef at ntplx.net Mon Jul 22 00:47:52 2002 From: stadmef at ntplx.net (Frank Stadmeyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Sun visor and Glove box Removal Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020721234615.02c62680@mail.ntplx.net> Another try with the proper address: >Can someone give me better instructions on the easy way to remove and >replace the drivers side sun visor and the glove box. The donor car is an >'89 100Q and the recipient is my '91 200Q. > >I looked in the Bentley but it wasn't all that clear on the glove box. I >haven't looked about the sun visor yet, if you tell me it's clear, that's fine. > >Thanks > >Frank Stadmeyer > Frank From stadmef at ntplx.net Mon Jul 22 00:45:46 2002 From: stadmef at ntplx.net (Frank Stadmeyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Wanted: Seat adjustment switch trim panel Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20020721234333.02c7d540@mail.ntplx.net> Let's try this with the correct address: >I've got a '91 200Q with grey Barcolounger seats. The trim piece around >the power seat switches is broken. It was cracked and it finally >succumbed to it's injuries during a seat heater repair last fall. The seat >heater repair was successful (at least it was when I checked last, I'm >sure I'll find out differently when I need it!) - somehow the rear >backrest adjustment quit working during the repair. I figure I'll try to >find out what's up with that and replace the trim piece, if I can find >one, while it's still warm out. > >So what I'm looking for is the piece of plastic that covers the seat >adjustment switches and wraps around the front slightly on the drivers >seat. As I said the, seats are grey Barcolounger. I don't know if one from >a sport seat would fit. > >Anybody got a seat with bad leather that this part is still OK? > >TIA > > >Frank Stadmeyer > Frank From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Mon Jul 22 01:45:01 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: E 02...my CD changer is confused Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] You "could" actually use your stock speakers with an aftermarket headunit if you really wanted to, although I don't see why you would since those paper cone things suck. A lot of times you can buy adapters for cars with Bose systems but they never work right (at least frommy experience). I always take out the stock speakers and their amps and run new wires to the speakers (done the right way). If you must use your stock speakers you can try to find an adapter or without an adpater you need to find the right wires, bypass the factory amps and hook your speakers up to the new head unit. And of course, you could again just run new wires to your "existing" speakers and bypass the amps or completelly take them out. I can help you out more if you decide on a certain way to go. Dan B. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Zoot531@aol.com To: 200q20v@audifans.com CC: Bleaf1@peoplepc.com Subject: E 02...my CD changer is confused Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:00:25 EDT MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from www.audifans.com ([64.205.178.107]) by mc2-f37.law16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Sat, 20 Jul 2002 20:07:45 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id EB1242F9; Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:10:39 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 56DA324E; Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:10:38 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id E9A1D2D8; Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:03:29 -0400 (EDT) Received: from imo-r03.mx.aol.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id A5F2B24Efor <200q20v@audifans.com>; Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:03:29 -0400 (EDT) Received: from Zoot531@aol.comby imo-r03.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v32.21.) id e.157.112876ec (4539);Sat, 20 Jul 2002 23:00:26 -0400 (EDT) Delivered-To: 200q20v@audifans.com Message-ID: <157.112876ec.2a6b7dc9@aol.com> X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 Sender: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com Errors-To: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-BeenThere: 200q20v@audifans.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.8 Precedence: bulk List-Unsubscribe: , List-Id: 200q20v list <200q20v.audifans.com> List-Post: List-Help: List-Subscribe: , List-Archive: Return-Path: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-OriginalArrivalTime: 21 Jul 2002 03:07:45.0718 (UTC) FILETIME=[C9506560:01C23063] Listers, Thanks for defining what E-02 on the changer remote means...however, I think my changer is confused. It gives the same error regardless of whether the CD's are in the changer or not. I tried it with CDs in and out...no change, still E-02. As far as I can tell from a visual inspection w/a flashlight and the cassette out, there are no CD's in the player. The nonfunctioning changer didn't bother me until I was told by a Circuit City stereo guy that I must replace all speakers if I wanted to install a non-bose aftermarket CD head unit. Suddenly, fixing the changer seems to be a wise economic (if not Audio-philic) choice. TIA. Adam Chinchiolo '91 200q20v (random observation...now that it's gotten to be 90-100 + degrees during the day...my car is making 1.8 bar consistently...curious) _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c152??PI=44364 From sscalmanini at yahoo.com Sun Jul 21 22:56:54 2002 From: sscalmanini at yahoo.com (Scalmanini Steve) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Sun visor and Glove box Removal Message-ID: <20020722045654.90946.qmail@web12408.mail.yahoo.com> If I remember correctly, Bentley does not explain the shortcut to removing the glove box. Loosen each of the screws a few turns each with a (4mm?) Allen wrench. Then slide the entire box over (left, toward the door, I think) and it'll drop off the heads of the screws. This'll obviate unscrewing each of those 4 screws all the way, a quarter turn or so at a time. Two of the screws (maybe all 4) have special square washers with one rolled edge that facilitates getting the box back on. Steve ----------------------------------------------------- Can someone give me ... the easy way to remove and replace ... the glove box. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com From themercedesbenz at hotmail.com Mon Jul 22 02:06:00 2002 From: themercedesbenz at hotmail.com (Audi Sport) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Sun visor and Glove box Removal Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] To remove the sunvisor you have to pry off the plastic caps that cover the phillips screws, the part where the sunvisor attaches to the head liner. To remove the glove box you need an allen key (4mm I think). Open the glove box and look on the top part of the inside of it where the glove box attaches to the dash. You will see two holes towards the front of the glove box. Two of the allen crews are in those holes and you have to unscrew them all the way but they won't drop out so don't expect them to. The other two are visible and are more towards the rear. These two, you don't have to take out all the way, just loosen them and than the glove box will slide out (once the two front ones are un-screwed all the way of course). Dan B. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Frank Stadmeyer To: 200q20v@audifans.com Subject: Sun visor and Glove box Removal Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2002 23:47:52 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: from www.audifans.com ([64.205.178.107]) by mc2-f38.law16.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.4905); Sun, 21 Jul 2002 20:58:35 -0700 Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id 47C8A3B0; Mon, 22 Jul 2002 00:01:23 -0400 (EDT) Received: from www.audifans.com (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTPid 56630365; Mon, 22 Jul 2002 00:01:21 -0400 (EDT) Received: by www.audifans.com (Postfix, from userid 0)id E68143AB; Sun, 21 Jul 2002 23:53:50 -0400 (EDT) Received: from mail.ntplx.net (localhost [127.0.0.1])by www.audifans.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 822DF365for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Sun, 21 Jul 2002 23:53:50 -0400 (EDT) Received: from c0083839.ntplx.net (dhcp-209-54-74-214.ct.dsl.ntplx.com [209.54.74.214])by mail.ntplx.net (8.11.6/8.11.4/NETPLEX) with ESMTP id g6M3oo308738for <200q20v@audifans.com>; Sun, 21 Jul 2002 23:50:50 -0400 (EDT) Delivered-To: 200q20v@audifans.com Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20020721234615.02c62680@mail.ntplx.net> X-Sender: stadmef@mail.ntplx.net X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1 X-Virus-Scanned: by AMaViS and CyberSoft VFind Sender: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com Errors-To: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-BeenThere: 200q20v@audifans.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.8 Precedence: bulk List-Unsubscribe: , List-Id: 200q20v list <200q20v.audifans.com> List-Post: List-Help: List-Subscribe: , List-Archive: Return-Path: 200q20v-admin@audifans.com X-OriginalArrivalTime: 22 Jul 2002 03:58:38.0899 (UTC) FILETIME=[0F909830:01C23134] Another try with the proper address: >Can someone give me better instructions on the easy way to remove >and >replace the drivers side sun visor and the glove box. The donor car >is an >'89 100Q and the recipient is my '91 200Q. > >I looked in the Bentley but it wasn't all that clear on the glove >box. I >haven't looked about the sun visor yet, if you tell me it's clear, >that's fine. > >Thanks > >Frank Stadmeyer > Frank _______________________________________________ 200q20v mailing list 200q20v@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/1HM1ENUS/c144??PS=47575 From QSHIPQ at aol.com Mon Jul 22 10:05:12 2002 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 15:11:20 2003 Subject: Boost and TDC and distributors (now rotor alignment and "special tools") Message-ID: <151.11345b59.2a6d5d08@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] 3223 is only refernced in the 90q and the 200tq manual. Which leads me to believe that it's the ability to not view it directly that was the reason for the tool. IME, unecessary if you have a mirror and a flashlight. HTH SJ In a message dated 7/20/02 2:07:54 PM Central Daylight Time, dbpulvino@hotmail.com writes: > I want to clarify, or more accurately confirm my assumption with some btdt > info. With reference to the distributor alignment, the Audi "3223 special > tool" will