boost problem solved (I think)

Dan Simoes dans at
Sun Jun 23 08:35:10 EDT 2002

> After putting the TDC mark on the flywheel at the window pointer, did you
> verify tha it was TDC compression stroke, and not TDC exhaust stroke, by
> looking at the rotor?

No, I actually already had the dist off at that point I think.

So you think I should remove the distributor, get the 0 back in the
window, and reinstall the distributor 180 degrees off where I am now?

> Sounds like the engine was at TDC
> exhaust when you removed the old one and you then reinstalled as if it were
> at TDC compression.

How do you know where in the stroke it is?  I had a straw in the #1
cylinder to see when it was going up/down.

>  If correct, the rotor should be pointing forward and
> the Hall sensor should be at about 2 oclock.

When you say forward, what direction is that?  Like 9 oclock?
Knowing that the Hall sensor is supposed to be at 2oclock is helpful.

It would probably be simplest to just note the current rotor position,
remove the distributor, and reinstall 180 degrees from where I am now,
and fine tune by rotating the dist until it starts, I guess?
> Bernie
> > From: Dan Simoes <dans at>
> > Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 23:01:03 -0400
> > To: 200 20v <200q20v at>
> > Subject: boost problem solved (I think)
> >
> > OK, here's the cliff notes as it's late.
> > I set out to tackle replacing the distributor, saving myself a 2.5hr
> > round trip to my local Audi specialist.
> >
> > I set the engine at TDC, indicated by the 0 in the (tiny) window above
> > the transmission.  I did this by having the car on a slight downhill, in
> > 5th gear, and a helper on/off the brake as I literally hovered over the
> > hood trying to see in.
> >
> > Once at 0, I removed the distributor by first chiseling off the
> > protective cover and bolt, removed the 13mm nut and "yoke" holding the
> > dist on.  I then verified that the gear was only slightly worn, but the
> > dist had considerable play in it, compared to new.
> >
> > I lined up the rotor, hash mark on the round piece below it, and the
> > hash on the body of the distributor, and inserted it with the hall
> > sensor connection at about 2oclock, as you look at the dist from the
> > drivers side.
> >
> > The car would not start.  Verified wire connections, etc as you know
> > (thanks to Brett, Paul Royal and Peter S. for calling in with
> > advice/comparisions).
> >
> > Had dinner, came back out with a mag lite to try to loosen the 13mm nut
> > enough to rotate the dist.  Succeeded after some time (coming in from
> > the firewall this time, cap and wires still on!) and rotated the dist
> > counterclockwise as my brother in law cranked the engine.  nothing.  I
> > was hitting the manifold, so I went back the other way.  At some point,
> > vroom.
> >
> > The hall sensor is now at around 7 or 8 oclock, but the car starts.
> > I went for a quick test drive and it held boost in 3rd and 4th gears
> > uphill, which before it did not (digital gauge showing 1.7, analog
> > around 13psi).
> >
> > I'm not sure what all this means.  Could it be that the engine was
> > already 180 degrees off, and my rotation just compensated for this?  Or,
> > am I the one who is off?  I'm not sure if I should leave it like this or
> > have it checked out, you tell me.
> >
> > I didn't even tighten the nut yet, but will do so tomorrow.
> >
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