update on problems/codes
pjrose at frontiernet.net
Tue May 21 14:23:47 EDT 2002
>Here is the leak tester I made several yrs ago - works great - about $7 to
>build as I recall. Pressurize to 20 psi max. I've posted this serveral
>times. I'd loan it out but shipping would likely cost more than the tester.
Yeh, that's the ticket! Do you just use a tire gauge to check for
Also, you mention releasing pressure with the oil-filler cap, and
that suggests another source of leakage. A couple of years ago I got
tired of the chronic oiliness on the valve cover near the cap, so at
a cost of about $1 an official Audi paper gasket (ordered from
Carlsen Audi) was placed atop the tired, 10-yr-old one on the cap.
Can't say it solved a boost problem, but it keeps any oil from
depositing on top of the cam cover.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Phil Rose <pjrose at frontiernet.net>
>To: Dan Simoes <dans at audifans.com>
>Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at audifans.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 10:22 AM
>Subject: Re: update on problems/codes
>> >Phil Rose wrote:
>> >> Also I assume you've
>> >> double-checked all hoses and hose clamps, since the "bucking" symptom
>> >> you mentioned is possibly from fuel cut-off caused by a hose "burp".
>> >That's an interesting theory. How do you check hoses and clamps, other
>> >than visually?
>> Well, the glib answer is to keep tightening all clamps 'till the
>> problem goes away. :-)
>> As to non-visual checks for leaks and splits: Brett --a couple of
>> years ago-- had decribed a device he put together for measuring
>> intake-pressure leakage. I've been meaning to make something similar
>> since it can save a lot of time hunting for problem spots. Involves
>> simple some plumbing inserted at the entrance to the turbo intake
>> hose. Of course you still need to track down the location(s) of the
>> problem (audible hissing?) Brett, perhaps you can repost that?
>> My "method" is just to tediously verify that every one of the intake
>> system clamps--especially ones that I or others have fiddled with
>> recently-- require "significant" tightening torque. I think boost
>> problems will typically be from a rather loose clamp--not one that
>> requires considerable effort to tighten further. And it's easy to
>> overlook some "little fellers" like the hard-to-reach 1" clamp below
>> the idle stabilizer valve.
>> I once had the "burp" problem, which turned out to be the big clamp
>> at the throttle body. I had inadvertantly left it still needing one
>> or two full turns (*easy* ones) to snug up. I think it's useful to
>> get a "feel" for snugness by using a direct driver on the clamp
>> screw--if possible. Using a ratchet handle is convenient and
>> generates more torque, but you have to be rather careful not to
>> overtighten (break?), although usually the only damage will be to the
>> clamp itself, which is not a big deal, unless you can't locate a
>> Phil Rose Rochester, NY USA
>> '91 200q (130 Kmiles, Lago blue)
>> '91 200q (57 Kmiles, Tornado red)
>> mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
>> 200q20v mailing list
>> 200q20v at audifans.com
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
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