[s-cars] More on audi wheel bolts/studs/torque
QSHIPQ at aol.com
QSHIPQ at aol.com
Mon Oct 21 18:30:18 EDT 2002
[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
Hmm. DIR might not be so clear in execution and practice. Interesting post
Bob. I didn't do a "removal" torque procedure. On the wagon, it's been 10
days since my last (torque) confession. I'll give you a report. On the
Rally car, I can share that my electric Impact generates 240lb/ft of torque
on removal, we had no problems. I'm open for any fix to the procedure here
accepting the givens. The problem most of us have in a performance
environment is the *inability* to allow the car to cool before any torque
procedure. In the extreme case of the rally car, when the nuts were put on
the studs you couldn't touch either without burning yourself.
wagon report to follow
In a message dated 10/21/2002 3:30:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
rpastore at animalfeeds.com writes:
I'm in the opposite club!
Last year at the Glen, I would check my wheel toque HOT after every run,
with a "clicker" type torque wrench. Never thought of backing the nuts
off, just click, click, click...Ok.
Roll forward to end of day, time to remove Hoosiers...No f^**ing way. One
of the front lug bolts wasn't budging, so I tried to call in Professional
Help. Along comes Steve Early's friend and resident LumberJack/Mechanic
"Jake", who tries his best but winds up stripping the head of the lug till
it's nearly round. Finally, I drove down the hill into town on the Hoosier
into Smalley's garage, sacrificed my 4" socket extension and we welded the
extension to the lug bolt. After several broken welds, a lot more heat than
I would have like to have seen, we finally got the bolt/socket extension
out. Steve Early now uses it as a prop in his NEQ "torque your wheels"
Lesson: Torque your wheels, but do it right!
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