Blau Wiring Harness for euro lights questions

Chuck Pierce cpcycle at
Fri Aug 29 17:33:57 EDT 2003

Well guys thanks for the responses!!!
Gordon I think Peter answers the reasons for going to the euro lights
(better and more light)
I bought my lights on eBay and have rebuilt them (new lenses and a
rechrome on one set of reflectors) with the harness I am still about
$150 ahead. Just more hassles.
If I was to do it again I would just buy the new ones to save the
screwing around to get thing done.
Yes Bernie I could have made a harness and then I would not have some of
these questions I have raised, but I did not have any idea of what I was
building, if I could have seen some thing like this before hand I could
have put one together. Then there is the time with the car apart
figuring how to do it in a neat and orderly manner (I do not like to
kluge stuff).
Charlie.. I noticed the H1/H3 will work with H4 high beam in the stock
configuration from Blau. When you use the optional way to light the
H1/H3 bulb it can come on when ever you flip the switch in the car.( I
think whether the lights are on or not) I want to set it up so the H1/H3
can only come on when the H4 high beam is selected. The reason for this
thread is I am planning to run 100W in the H1/H3 socket, so I do not
want to nuke some poor sap going the other way! Hell the H4 alone will
give me more light than I have right now!!!! So I can save the blasters
for those trips at night in the Sierras going to Truckee. Now that I
have played with the harness I am going to meter it out and make myself
a wiring diagram to see if my convoluted logic is going to hold up.

I emailed Blau yesterday about the harness, but things take time back
there to respond.

Thanks for the information.
Any continued wisdom is appreciated

Chuck Pierce
91 200 tq 20v Avant

Gordy_Schesel at wrote:

>I'm interested in how this works out for you, Chuck.  I got my 200 a year
>ago in October and have been interested in doing the euro-light conversion
>also.  And we all know how inadequate the OE light assemblies perform, even
>when newly replaced at a cost of ~$300 per side.
>I'm concerned about the down-side to the conversion.
>...The cost is ~$750 including the harness
>...They are not DOT approved (will my insurance company have issue with
>that if something happens?)
>...The auto-check system will no longer test the light circuit and report
>as before(?)
>I'm puzzled by your "H1/H3 bulbs on a separate switch" comment.  What bulbs
>are being replaced; and with what?   What bulbs are normally going to be
>lit when the headlight switch is flipped on?
>'91 200 20v tq wagon, white, 109k miles, totally stock so far.
>'91 100 10v quattro, bamboo, 196k miles, also totally stock.
>I am about to install my Euro lights. THe Blau harness gives you a
>option to put the H1/H3 bulbs on a separate switch, so as to not blind
>the innocent.
>Have any lucky souls here used this option? If so where did you put the
>switch inside the car? (neatly)  Has anyone figured out how to set it up
>so the H1/H3 bulbs will only light up when the high beams are selected
>and the switch is on. I am assuming that the Blau optional switch method
>lights the H1/H3 bulbs regardless if the highs are on.
>I was looking at the harness and thinking (a dangerous thing) that I
>could route the power that energizes the regular high beam relay to the
>extra relay for the H1/H3 bulbs and use the switch to supply the ground,
>that way the blaster lights would only be on with the other high beams
>when they are selected. This would be preferred for when I am out
>driving and would not have to move my hands off of the steering wheel to
>turn off the blaster bulbs.
>Chuck Pierce
>91 200 tq 20v Avant    Euro lights to come and Samco hoses
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