20V Cluster Tach Differences?

BriceW at webtv.net BriceW at webtv.net
Sun Aug 31 03:18:59 EDT 2003

I was having problems with my cluster. I had done the resoldering on the
check system and speedometer per Scotts site and everything was fine for
a few months.
Then my speedo started totally dying and coming back on and I found an
old post here that solved that problem about soldering a jumper wire on
the speed ground connections. That worked great.
But my circuit board had a crack under the resistor where you solder the
speed ground. The only problem I had then was that the turn signals
would not show up on the cluster. Then I started getting jumping speedo
again about a month later.
So I found a 1990 200 TQ at the salvage yard with 264,000 miles. I
bought the whole cluster for $50.00.
I then transferred the black circuit board to my cluster. I inspected
every detail and observed no difference in the 2 boards. I also switched
the check system board hoping to correct my brake pad warning light. I
also switched the clock as my clock quit working due to the plastic
inserts being broken and not being tight enough to conduct a signal from
the 2 square rubber pieces.
Now my cluster works perfectly. Some day I will need to resolder the
speedo and check system. Or I will just take my original check system
board and install it.
My brake pad wear light is still coming on.
You can get a new circuit board from Blau for $200.00 and a new clock
for $60.00.
I had heard that the ONLY difference between the 200 20V and the regular
200 TQ was the tach. I inspected both tachs and they looked identical to
Does anyone know what the actual differences are if any between the 20V
and the regular 200TQ cluster and tach?

More information about the 200q20v mailing list