More Distributor thoughts - long and nerdy

Mihnea Cotet mik at
Wed Dec 10 11:11:41 EST 2003

In all conditions, the dizzy has to be on the "0" position if you want to 
have good performance from your engine! Set it a bit advanced (1 or 2 
degrees) and you'll have no boost at all. Set it a bit retarded and you'll 
have full boost up to 4700 RPM, then the WGFV will be shut for a few 
hundreds of RPMs, then you'll have boost again, then no more, and so on.

Motronic ECUs need to see at least 25 RPM at cranking in order to start, 
and the ECU also checks if the hall sender's window is exactly at 62 
degrees BTDC otherwise you won't start, unless it's off by just a few 
degrees, in which case it will start but you'll have one of the 
aforementioned issues.

HTH and make sure your dizzy is set perfectly on the "0" mark whenever you 
mess with it ;-)


At 07:22 10/12/2003 -0800, Wolff wrote:

> >
> > I still can't figure out one thing. (Okay, there's MANY things I can't
>figure out) When
> > putting the new distributor in my engine, the window for correct placement
>was very small.
> > I got no spark at all if I was + or - 2° off of the 'correct' location.
>Some of that is
> > probably due to slop in my TB and chain. But it seems that if the slop in
>an engine got
> > really bad, the ECU wouldn't get the signals from distributor and crank
>close enough to
> > fire the coil at all.
> >
>You see that effect because the ECU does compare the distributer signal to
>the crank signal, but only during starting. After that, the ditributer is on
>it's own. The ECU runs off the crank signal once it determines where the cam
>is. That's why it takes a few revolutions for the turbo Audis to start. My
>4kq for example fires up after the first compresion stroke. (Read that as
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