eurolight connectors

Linus Toy linust at
Wed Dec 17 00:17:34 EST 2003

Interesting to read the post by Peter Henriksen on Chris Miller's site...the
prices he paid in '96 were about the same as I paid in '98 from Ned Ritchie
($22), though I don't think Ned still has them.  May be worth a call, though.

FWIW, it is worth going thru the trouble to do it right with the connector
block and the rubber boot...every time the headlights come out (timing belt
change, water pump, radiator replacement, radiator hose replacement,
thermostat, Samco hose install, etc) you get to juggle with the headlight
wiring.  The boot helps keep the insides of the lights clean...after 5 years
without the boots, my lights got quite grimy inside...fortunately, the Euros
are easy to disassemble and clean, but why risk the reflector silvering?

My 2 pennies.
Linus Toy
Mercer Island, WA 
linust at

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 200q20v-bounces at 
> [mailto:200q20v-bounces at] On Behalf Of CL Wong
> Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2003 4:28 PM
> To: 200q
> Subject: eurolight connectors
> >Holders are : 447972957
> I don't have my parts invoice handy, but if this is
> the same thing I received recently to re-do my euro
> light wiring (I built my own wiring harness the first
> time and this time used a wiring harness from
> I'd have to say you could do without
> the connector-holders.
> My connector-holders were small rectangular boxes with
> 4 compartments for the spade connectors.  
> There's supposed to be a small lid on either side to
> lock the spade connectors in place once you've
> inserted them into the connector-holder but the hinge
> on the lids are flimsy plastic that were broken or
> even missing upon delivery.  I had the same problem
> with the first set I received 4+ years ago.
> In my opinion the holders are meant to isolate the 4
> connectors (which are pretty close together).  If you
> just buy the rubber boots it will look OEM so there
> are no worries.. just use heat shrink tubing for
> isolation.
> just my 2 cents.
> Chi
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