Fuel Pump Replacement-HELP PLEASE

Scalmanini Steve sscalmanini at yahoo.com
Mon Feb 3 20:04:46 EST 2003

I have a few additions to that web page after
replacing my fuel pump just a few days ago.

The retaining ring for the tank access hole came off
without hammering or having to use tool 3087.  I used
two large screwdrivers prying against each other and
on opposite slots in the ring; a 12" long 3/8" blade
horizontally and an 8" long 5/16" blade vertically.
The ring moves slowly so it takes several seconds (and
several tries since the screwdrivers pop out of the
slots easily).

One perfect tool not mentioned that was very handy for
me is called a Socket Cap.  It's a square socket drive
with a hex head.  This is perfect for inserting into
the top of tool 3214 before you insert it into the
tank onto the upper reservoir to remove and install
it.  Sears sells a set of three (1/4, 3/8 & 1/2"
drives) as P/N 9 43303.  The 1/2" size has an 11/16
hex that sits up only ~7/16 above whatever you insert
it into.  Slick!  (I bought the set > 10 years ago
thinking I'd need it some day, and some day finally

The round solderless connector that needs to be
replaced is the larger one, that goes to the positive
(+) terminal on the pump, not the smaller one on the
end of the brown ground wire (-).  Replace it with a
round solderless connector that's even smaller than
both of the old ones; use one for a #6 stud and 18
gage wire.

The complete list of parts you'll need, if you're
converting from old style to new, is:

* 8A0 906 091 G  Fuel Pump
* 441 201 791    Spring Pin ("housing for lighter" in
ETKA; who thinks up these names?)
* N 904 644 02   O-ring (for around Spring Pin or
around old-style pump)
* 4A0 201 351 C  Fuel Hose (supply line inside tank)
* N 102 582 01   Clip (hose clamp for lower end of
Fuel Hose inside tank)
* #6 x 18 gage round solderless connector
* 4mm nut for positive terminal on pump
* N 013 812 8    Washer (sealing washer for banjo bolt
for supply line outside of tank); 2 req'd
* N 901 833 02   Round Seal (O-ring for tank access
hole cover)

If I had to do it over again I would use the old-style
pump instead of the new style.  It's less work, less
expensive (after you include the costs of the "Spring
Pin" (the plastic bushing that adapts the new-style
43mm OD pump to the 60mm ID of the upper reservoir),
and, most importantly, less likely to move out of
place inside the tank.  The old pump had a ridge
around it that held it firmly in place between a lip
inside the upper reservoir (with an o-ring seal) and
the top of the strainer.  In the new design, a ridge
on the outside of the spring pin gets sandwiched there
instead, and the pump slides inside the spring pin.
The outside of the pump is smooth so after it's in
place, it can be slid up out of the spring pin.  There
are two fingers at the top of the spring pin that hold
it with light friction, but much lighter than seemed
necessary to me to hold it there for tens of thousands
of miles.  Compare the two at
 Oh, and I'd get the old-style pump from either The
Parts Connection (800 472-1144) or The Parts Bin 888
628-3247; maybe Blau 3rd (800 683 2834).

If you do use an old-style pump, you'll need two more
sealing washers: one more of those listed above and a
fourth one that's castellated on its ID (N 902 832 01;
goes on top of the banjo fitting on top the pump,
between the fitting and the Pressure Damper).

Bentley says to replace all "seals and gaskets and
hose clamps".  I did seals and gaskets but not clamps.

That's all I can think of for now.  Good luck
replacing yours,

Ukiah, CA

Kneale Brownson knotnook at traverse.com
Sun, 02 Feb 2003 22:33:15 -0500

Check the repairs index at
http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html for the
listing for fuel pump replacement.  It's pretty

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