Ignition switch (was Re: 200q20v digest, Vol 1 #1334 - 14 msgs)
pjrose at frontiernet.net
Tue Jan 14 12:38:14 EST 2003
Thanks for that info Charlie.
I've begun to wonder: might the liklihood of Audi ignition switch
breakage correlate with the driver's tendancy to keep the steering
wheel turned (away from center by a large amount) at the time he
turns off the switch? This situation often will put the
steering-column lock under stress and can cause excessive force to be
applied to the ignition switch when attempting to turn on the
ignition. Years ago--with another vehicle, in another galaxy-- I
tried to develop a habit of keeping the wheels straight ahead when
parked (except on hills, of course.) This was related to premature
failure I had observed on a steering rack boot. I hope this ploy
might also prolong the life of my ignition switch (but I don't have
P.S. I hope digest readers will try to avoid using the digest
reference for their subject line.
At 9:51 AM -0700 1/14/03, Charles Baer wrote:
>I bought the dealer assembly and switch to do this a few months ago
>after a ham-fisted car wash gang forced my switch and broke it. Brian
>made a good move finding an older part, the new rotator tab piece is
>slightly different and won't fit older cylinder assemblies.
>I did find a source for the black security cap so I cut the old one
>off and rekeyed the new cylinder to match the other locks. If you
>choose that route, be careful not to cut the retaining circlip when
>you cut off the cap. This is where I bought the cap:
> Andrew's Wholesale Lock Supply
> 544 South 9th. Street, Lebanon, PA 17042
> 800-544-0519 - 717-274-8659 (FAX)
> E-Mail: sales at andrewslock.com
>The PDFs on their site showed P-31-609 for a 91, but it turned out
>that mine was a P-31-610 ( 91> V8s, 92> 100s & urS ). The 609 has
>a rounded surround while the 610 has a flat face around the keyhole.
>Brian Link wrote:
>> That's crazy, Mine did the same thing last weekend? I had to pop start
>> my car to get home, then disconnect the battery when I got home. Do you
>> have a Bentley manual?
>> If it is only your switch you are in luck, $30 and you need to remove
>> the instrument cluster and the lower panel under the drivers dash. Mine
>> turned out to be both the switch and the part of the ignition that turns
>> the switch. To remove the whole ignition assembly you also need to
>> remove the steering wheel and steering column. It is kind of a huge
>> pain. I think the dealer wanted $75 for a new ignition switch with
>> keys. I took just the part I needed from a wrecked 200 so I could keep
>> my keys. If you don't have a Bentley, the only hard part is finding the
>> painted screws behind the dash to replace the plastic switch.
> > Good Luck
mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
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