20v Cap and rotor Q&A

Bernie Benz b.benz at charter.net
Tue Jan 14 13:18:55 EST 2003

Get smart, Bill!  Find a good independent Audi wrench.

If he knows that the timing belt is loose he has removed the cover and could
inspect the belt.  What is a rotor button?


> From: "Gaballah, Bill" <bgaballah at kpmg.com>
> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:42:29 -0500
> To: "'SuffolkD at aol.com'" <SuffolkD at aol.com>, 200q20v at audifans.com
> Cc: bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> Subject: RE: 20v Cap and rotor Q&A
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> These guys are pieces of work (audi of Alexandria, VA).  Now the technician
> calls me back and says its the rotor button and that the rotor did not
> explode.  He said that the rotor button quits spinning and the timing belt
> is loose which suggests that some teeth are missing and the engine is out of
> time. In which case there would be head damage due to it being an
> interference engine.  Total tear down could be 25 hours labor!!!!   Anyone
> interested in a beautiful car.....$1000. 91 Audi 200 Quattro turbo sedan 20V
> only 1600 made.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SuffolkD at aol.com [mailto:SuffolkD at aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 3:05 PM
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Cc: bgaballah at kpmg.com; bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: 20v Cap and rotor Q&A
> The distributor for the 20V (3B) is specific (as referenced below) and hard
> to get, so double check you get the correct distributor not a 10V (MC)
> maybe these are correct: 10V (MC): 035 905 206 AF
> 20V (3B): 034 905 205 Q
> most other BTDT listers here will chime in with their experience.
> It seems that the rotor under the cap (only one -rotor- listed 052 905 225C
> but there is discussion about two, the narrower - rotor - being correct)
> It seems however, that the post of yours talks about going into the motor
> which leads me to think that the STEALER is soaking you for 12 hours of
> labor, OR THAT the gear at the bottom of the distributor (plastic?), in the
> motor, has broken.
> If that's the case if could be a true 12 hour process just to open the motor
> head to look around.
> While I'm not experienced in that department, you may want to consider that
> (Derek?) listers have had metal gears made for the bottom of there
> distributors.
> If your a risk taker, go cap/rotor and new distributor after trying to shop
> vac the plastic out of the distributor hole.  Then run a new one
> (distributor - best w/metal gear you sourced) to see if you escape the 12
> hours labor.
> I'd recommend getting all the broken pieces out first.  Local wrench maybe?
> Tell us what happens.  This info can be superceeded by a more knowledgeable
> BTDT lister.
> HTH -Scott in BOSTON
>>>>>>>>>>> dealer states he
> removed the distributor to see why it wasn't getting any spark and found out
> that the rotor was in pieces.  The dealer suggests 12 hours in labor to
> tear it down and check for further damage to the head etc
> Message: 4
> From: "Jobe Tichy" <bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> Your friend seems to be on to something here....I would do the same thing.
> Just start with replacing the cap and rotor (cheapest route) and see if it
> starts. At the end of the day, what damage was done has been done and I
> don't
> think that just replacing those parts and trying to start will aggravate any
> further damage, if any at all.  Make sure you use the correct rotor part for
> the 20v turbo.
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