20v Cap and rotor Q&A

Bernie Benz b.benz at charter.net
Tue Jan 14 13:18:56 EST 2003

Opps!  Sent this first to the wrong 20V list.


You are wrong, in that the 10V MC distributor is not physically
interchangable with the 20V (single cam vs twin cam, different gear).
The NA 20V 7A distributor is physically and functionally interchangable with
the 3B, (BTDT) but they do have different part numbers, 034 905 205 J and Q,
respectively.  Further they have different rotors, Bosch 1 234 237 4R1 and
1 234 332 414 R1, respectively, and different Hall sensors, Bosch 1 230 329
038 and 1 230 329 049, resp.


> From: SuffolkD at aol.com
> Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:05:12 EST
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Cc: bgaballah at kpmg.com, bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: 20v Cap and rotor Q&A
> --
> [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> The distributor for the 20V (3B) is specific (as referenced below) and hard
> to get, so double check you get the correct distributor not a 10V (MC)
> maybe these are correct: 10V (MC): 035 905 206 AF
> 20V (3B): 034 905 205 Q
> most other BTDT listers here will chime in with their experience.
> It seems that the rotor under the cap (only one -rotor- listed 052 905 225C
> but there is discussion about two, the narrower - rotor - being correct)
> It seems however, that the post of yours talks about going into the motor
> which leads me to think that the STEALER is soaking you for 12 hours of
> labor, OR THAT the gear at the bottom of the distributor (plastic?), in the
> motor, has broken.
> If that's the case if could be a true 12 hour process just to open the motor
> head to look around.
> While I'm not experienced in that department, you may want to consider that
> (Derek?) listers have had metal gears made for the bottom of there
> distributors.
> If your a risk taker, go cap/rotor and new distributor after trying to shop
> vac the plastic out of the distributor hole.  Then run a new one (distributor
> - best w/metal gear you sourced) to see if you escape the 12 hours labor.
> I'd recommend getting all the broken pieces out first.  Local wrench maybe?
> Tell us what happens.  This info can be superceeded by a more knowledgeable
> BTDT lister.
> HTH -Scott in BOSTON
>>>>>>>>>>> dealer states he
> removed the distributor to see why it wasn't getting any spark and found out
> that the rotor was in pieces.  The dealer suggests 12 hours in labor to
> tear it down and check for further damage to the head etc
> Message: 4
> From: "Jobe Tichy" <bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> Your friend seems to be on to something here....I would do the same thing.
> Just start with replacing the cap and rotor (cheapest route) and see if it
> starts. At the end of the day, what damage was done has been done and I don't
> think that just replacing those parts and trying to start will aggravate any
> further damage, if any at all.  Make sure you use the correct rotor part for
> the 20v turbo.
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