20v Cap and rotor Q&A (sudden stall)
dbpulvino at hotmail.com
Tue Jan 14 14:26:33 EST 2003
You can also check to see if the gear is in one piece (to some degree) by
trying to turn the rotor shaft before you put a new rotor on, although now
that I reread the original post, it appears there might have been a
breakdown in communication between yourself and the dealership. Where you
wrote rotor, do you mean maybe gear?
For what it's worth, pieces from a broken rotor will not (from my
recollection) migrate from the cap/rotor end of the distributor into the
valve train side. If it's the rotor that's busted, I think the dealership
is not following a very "cost-effective" troubleshooting path, however if
the opposite is true, same goes for "cost-effective logic."
If you're worried that the gear is broken, you could either remove the valve
cover (a fairly simple procedure), or remove the distributor. I
unfortunately do not have any more metal gears available.
Also, thanks Bernie for those hall sender part numbers. Do you remember if
the hall senders looked like they'd be interchangable between 20v dist? IE,
mounting hole locations?
>Opps! Sent this first to the wrong 20V list.
>You are wrong, in that the 10V MC distributor is not physically
>interchangable with the 20V (single cam vs twin cam, different gear).
>The NA 20V 7A distributor is physically and functionally interchangable
>the 3B, (BTDT) but they do have different part numbers, 034 905 205 J and
>respectively. Further they have different rotors, Bosch 1 234 237 4R1 and
>1 234 332 414 R1, respectively, and different Hall sensors, Bosch 1 230 329
>038 and 1 230 329 049, resp.
> > From: SuffolkD at aol.com
> > Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:05:12 EST
> > To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> > Cc: bgaballah at kpmg.com, bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> > Subject: Re: 20v Cap and rotor Q&A
> > --
> > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> > AFAIK:
> > The distributor for the 20V (3B) is specific (as referenced below) and
> > to get, so double check you get the correct distributor not a 10V (MC)
> > maybe these are correct: 10V (MC): 035 905 206 AF
> > 20V (3B): 034 905 205 Q
> > most other BTDT listers here will chime in with their experience.
> > It seems that the rotor under the cap (only one -rotor- listed 052 905
> > but there is discussion about two, the narrower - rotor - being correct)
> > It seems however, that the post of yours talks about going into the
> > which leads me to think that the STEALER is soaking you for 12 hours of
> > labor, OR THAT the gear at the bottom of the distributor (plastic?), in
> > motor, has broken.
> > If that's the case if could be a true 12 hour process just to open the
> > head to look around.
> > While I'm not experienced in that department, you may want to consider
> > (Derek?) listers have had metal gears made for the bottom of there
> > distributors.
> > If your a risk taker, go cap/rotor and new distributor after trying to
> > vac the plastic out of the distributor hole. Then run a new one
> > - best w/metal gear you sourced) to see if you escape the 12 hours
> > I'd recommend getting all the broken pieces out first. Local wrench
> > Tell us what happens. This info can be superceeded by a more
> > BTDT lister.
> > HTH -Scott in BOSTON
> >>>>>>>>>>> dealer states he
> > removed the distributor to see why it wasn't getting any spark and found
> > that the rotor was=A0in pieces.=A0 The dealer suggests 12 hours in labo=
> > tear it down and check for further damage to the head etc
> > Message: 4
> > From: "Jobe Tichy" <bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
> > Your friend seems to be on to something here....I would do the same
> > Just start with replacing the cap and rotor (cheapest route) and see if
> > starts. At the end of the day, what damage was done has been done and I
> > think that just replacing those parts and trying to start will aggravate
> > further damage, if any at all.=A0 Make sure you use the correct rotor p=
> > the 20v turbo.
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