20v Cap and rotor Q&A (sudden stall)

Mihnea Cotet mik at info.fundp.ac.be
Tue Jan 14 23:41:16 EST 2003

FWIW I have a NA 20vt (7A engine code) distributor in my 3B engine WITH the
right 3B rotor and it works just fine!


At 14:26 14/01/2003 -0800, Derek Pulvino wrote:
>You can also check to see if the gear is in one piece (to some degree) by
>trying to turn the rotor shaft before you put a new rotor on, although now
>that I reread the original post, it appears there might have been a
>breakdown in communication between yourself and the dealership.  Where you
>wrote rotor, do you mean maybe gear?
>For what it's worth, pieces from a broken rotor will not (from my
>recollection) migrate from the cap/rotor end of the distributor into the
>valve train side.  If it's the rotor that's busted, I think the dealership
>is not following a very "cost-effective" troubleshooting path, however if
>the opposite is true, same goes for "cost-effective logic."
>If you're worried that the gear is broken, you could either remove the valve
>cover (a fairly simple procedure), or remove the distributor.  I
>unfortunately do not have any more metal gears available.
>Also, thanks Bernie for those hall sender part numbers.  Do you remember if
>the hall senders looked like they'd be interchangable between 20v dist?  IE,
>mounting hole locations?
>Derek P
>>Opps!  Sent this first to the wrong 20V list.
>>You are wrong, in that the 10V MC distributor is not physically
>>interchangable with the 20V (single cam vs twin cam, different gear).
>>The NA 20V 7A distributor is physically and functionally interchangable
>>the 3B, (BTDT) but they do have different part numbers, 034 905 205 J and
>>respectively.  Further they have different rotors, Bosch 1 234 237 4R1 and
>>1 234 332 414 R1, respectively, and different Hall sensors, Bosch 1 230 329
>>038 and 1 230 329 049, resp.
>> > From: SuffolkD at aol.com
>> > Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:05:12 EST
>> > To: 200q20v at audifans.com
>> > Cc: bgaballah at kpmg.com, bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
>> > Subject: Re: 20v Cap and rotor Q&A
>> >
>> > --
>> > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
>> > AFAIK:
>> > The distributor for the 20V (3B) is specific (as referenced below) and
>> > to get, so double check you get the correct distributor not a 10V (MC)
>> > maybe these are correct: 10V (MC): 035 905 206 AF
>> > 20V (3B): 034 905 205 Q
>> > most other BTDT listers here will chime in with their experience.
>> > It seems that the rotor under the cap (only one -rotor- listed 052 905
>> > but there is discussion about two, the narrower - rotor - being correct)
>> >
>> > It seems however, that the post of yours talks about going into the
>> > which leads me to think that the STEALER is soaking you for 12 hours of
>> > labor, OR THAT the gear at the bottom of the distributor (plastic?), in
>> > motor, has broken.
>> > If that's the case if could be a true 12 hour process just to open the
>> > head to look around.
>> >
>> > While I'm not experienced in that department, you may want to consider
>> > (Derek?) listers have had metal gears made for the bottom of there
>> > distributors.
>> >
>> > If your a risk taker, go cap/rotor and new distributor after trying to
>> > vac the plastic out of the distributor hole.  Then run a new one
>> > - best w/metal gear you sourced) to see if you escape the 12 hours
>> >
>> > I'd recommend getting all the broken pieces out first.  Local wrench
>> > Tell us what happens.  This info can be superceeded by a more
>> > BTDT lister.
>> > HTH -Scott in BOSTON
>> >
>> >>>>>>>>>>> dealer states he
>> > removed the distributor to see why it wasn't getting any spark and found
>> > that the rotor was in pieces.  The dealer suggests 12 hours in labor to
>> > tear it down and check for further damage to the head etc
>> >
>> > Message: 4
>> > From: "Jobe Tichy" <bimmer_dude at hotmail.com
>> > Your friend seems to be on to something here....I would do the same
>> > Just start with replacing the cap and rotor (cheapest route) and see if
>> > starts. At the end of the day, what damage was done has been done and I
>> > think that just replacing those parts and trying to start will aggravate
>> > further damage, if any at all.  Make sure you use the correct rotor part
>> > the 20v turbo.
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