hauptmanns at llr.sc.gov
Thu May 22 16:58:06 EDT 2003
<<1. You need to find a competent alignment shop, or learn to DIY. Short of
an accident or big pot holes, a well done alignment should not change in
years, and will not bend strut housings.>>
Well, I'm not sure it did change as yet. I need to locate the alignment spec
sheet they gave me when they originally aligned it to see where it was. I
agree, it should not change.
<<2. Why would you downgrade braking performance, UFOs to G60s, and why
change strut housings, inasmuch as both were designed for UFOs?>>
I intend to do a BIRA or Willwood conversion one day and I do not like the
UFO's. I'm not slamming them, I'm just saying I have enough issues with them
that I wanted to convert. Have not seen any reduction in braking performance
with our use (Hawk HPS pads), but we sure like not having the pulsing brake
pedal to deal with every so often.
<<3. Good wheel bearings need not be replaced when R & R ed. Easier to
up, regrease and reassemble the old.>>
When I remove the wheel bearings per Bentley, the bearing comes apart when
pressing out the wheel hub. It seemed to me that the bearing was now
destroyed as I did not know that it could be reassembled. I'm not aware of a
method to press the bearing out without this happening.
How do you get them out and back in without them coming apart?
<<4. More positive camber is easily added, to a limit of the spring perch
hitting the tower, by slotting the anchor holes attaching the upper support
bracket to the tower studs. Adjustable camber plates can do no more. A
properly adjusted Benz Strut Brace will give additional + camber.>>
How much positive camber do you typically find that the slotted holes and
Benz strut brace allows?
<<Check for cracked tower to frame welds.>>
Thank goodness that's okay.
More information about the 200q20v