dbpulvino at hotmail.com
Tue Aug 24 11:26:28 EDT 2004
Just to clear a couple of things up, I did wind up getting a new caliper
guide with good pins and boots from the junkyard on Saturday, so that has
been taken care of...and that's how I found out the caliper guide is
different between the 100fwd and 200. The cars with non-vented rotors (100)
have a correspondingly smaller/narrower area cut out of the guide to allow
it to "straddle" the rotor. Earning this knowledge cost me an extra trip to
the junkyard, and finishing the job in the rain. Though the lower guide pin
was also stuck on the other side (passenger), I was able to finess/force it
out, and since I still had one good guide pin left from the now disposed of
caliper carrier, I reused that on the other side. So guide pins are good.
Last night, pulled off the wheels and removed the ebrake cables to isolate
my current problem. This is what I discovered; I'm having an issue with the
passenger side e-brake cable binding within the housing, along with the the
e-brake mechanism binding in the caliper as well. The return spring does
not have enough force to twist the activating mechanism (on the caliper)
alone, mush less the mechanism with the cable.
So until I can get this fixed, I've imposed a self-regulated moratorium on
ebrake use. And looking at the Bentley, I'm guessing the hard part about
the cable replacment is attaching it to the rod that comes off of the
Thanks for all the responses...and I hope that Alex won't be upset if I
don't check option "C," master cylinder! It's always cracked me up how we
always seem to get multiple instances of related problems simultaneously.
>it is pretty easy to see if it is the ebrakes hanging up> set ebrake and
>release. Go to back of car and see if return springs are resting against
>their stops or not. If not (likely) remove ebrake from offending caliper
>and see if cable moves freely and if return spring returns without cable.
>(if you slacken adjusting nut from the ebrake eye rod that passes from the
>ebrake handle underneath the car to the top of the drive shaft, you can
>remove the cable from the caliper without removing any other parts, BTDT
>this weekend!) Cables are cheap ~$25-$30@ but a real PITA, IMHO to
>CAlipers are pricey, but a sinch to replace (thanks Chris at force5auto.com
>$250pr incl pads&carriers!)
>keep us posted
>PS undoubtedly something is hanging. A nice 12" screwdriver will lever the
>ebrake springs back against their stops til you can fix them!
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