Removing Front Door Panels
brett at cloud9.net
Fri Jan 2 00:21:30 EST 2004
At 7:44 PM -0700 1/1/04, Grant Dion wrote:
>I found 2 philips screws on the edge of the
>upper panel. I also found that the armrest has 3 allen head screws
Yes- and they only need to be loosened. Then pull the armrest
off(may need a good tug). The mounting system is kinda hard to
explain, but basically, there are tabs that come out of the door, and
after a half inch, get wider. The allen screws actually tighten
clamps that latch on to the half-inch-wide part.
If I remember right, it's easiest to pull the back out slightly
first; it may be just my car, but the front tabs were angled slightly.
>these the only things standing in my way?
No. Remove all the electrics(they're all unique, don't worry). Then
you also need to remove the screw in the inside door handle(open the
door handle, you'll see it). Once that is removed, remove the whole
door handle assembly and detach the cable clip, cable, etc.
Then, there's ANOTHER Phillips screw under there(I think) that hold
the panel to the door in the center.
Then(are we having fun yet?) take a screwdriver, fairly wide, wrap it
in some thin cloth, and work your way around the door, popping the
plastic fasteners(they never break, don't worry).
Once they're done(they go virtually all the way around), pull the
bottom of the door panel out and push up(remember, you have to pull
out enough to get around the speaker, which is attached to the door,
not the panel; only the grille is part of the panel).
>and Is there a trick to get the
>arm rest screws out? Also I will be installing 6x9s in the rear deck
>openings. I understand that I will need to cut a bit to make this happen. Is
>there a way to get the rear deck covering off so I don't damage it during
>the cutting operation?
You can install 6x9's handily using the original frame from the Bose
system(they're standard 6x9's). Unless you're concerned about the
opening, but Bose didn't seem terribly concerned about it, and I
think a fair number of people keep the stock opening, if only for
stealth("don't steal me") purposes.
The driver's side speaker is best dropped from the top, then putting
back in only what you need; the passenger side is best detached from
the lower half of the hardware, which is accessible from the bottom,
and then you attach the 6x9 to what's still attached to the car.
This is due to the trunk lining/shape preventing access to one or
two of the bolts from the underside. A ratchet-end wrench works best
for getting the speaker out if you're going from the top, other wise
it's a LONG job getting those locknuts off.
"They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin
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