green gold pump leak

auditude at auditude at
Mon Jun 21 15:35:21 EDT 2004

Bernie Benz <b.benz at> wrote:
> Comment below, Ken.
> > From: <auditude at>
> >> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at>
> >>  
> >>> From: <auditude at>
> >>> 
> >>> <snip> Turns out my power steering pump is leaking,
> >>> apparently from the crush washer/banjo bolt area on the top of it.
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >> Not the likely leak source, Ken.  Much more likely would be one of the
> >> cylinder heads, the X head caps, 4 for the PS and 2 for the PB.  Degrease
> >> the pump well with solvent and then find the real leak.  If indead that you
> >> are right, it is the supply line from the reservoir, just loosen the banjo
> >> bolt a half turn and retighten, no need to replace the copper washer or
> O-ring.  This holds for any banjo bolt seal, I never have.
> >> 
> >> Bernie 
> >>> 
> > 
> > Thanks, I think that's true.  I checked with BAP Import Parts and they said
> > there were no seal kits in their nationwide system.
> > 
> Why do you think that a seal kit is necessary?  Likely not, as all parts are
> available indivudually as required.  Find the leak!

Hi Bernie,

I'm not sure why I thought a seal kit was necessary, 
probably some combination of my genes and experiences that 
contributed to my being an individual.  It would probably 
take a lot psychotherapy or something to determine the 
answer to that.  The problem solving process has got to 
start somewhere, right?  Does the reason for my initial 
thinking affect fixing the leak?

I have done some searching online and such for more info 
about the PS pump.  I found the part number Bernie posted 
for the cylinder o-rings.  I also saw some posts speculating 
that the material in the factory kit might be special 
compared to generic ones.  If I can get a deal on the 
factory seal kit, I prefer to go that way.

Here's the part number for the X-cap seals Bernie posted in 
the knowledgebase:

"The most likely failure point would be one of the cylinder 
head O-ring seals on the front half, power brake end of the 
pump, which can be changed in situ. (A generic 2-018 O-ring, 
$0.10) Clean the pump and find the leak before deciding to 
R&R. DFI if IAB!"

While searching the stuff online, I noticed a post that 
conflicted with the others I found about Bernie's 

"...I have not previously replaced the front seal on the 
shaft because I've not had one leaking from the front, only 
from between the halves and from under the mushroom caps.  
But Bernie Benz says that seal should be replaced also to 
assure pump doesn't suck air.  So I don't know that the 
front seal in that kit is the appropriate one, but it sure 
looks like it would be."

I believe Bernie's position regarding the shaft seal is to 
leave it alone if it's not leaking.  That would be 
consistent with his usual stance as well.

> > I noticed the earlier pumps aren't interchangeable, and that actually the 3B
> > cars had a unique pump from the 10v 200's.  Or at least the part numbers are
> > different, 054 145 155BX for a rebuild from TPC vs. 034 145 155X for a rebuilt
> > for an '87 5kt (which I have available).
> > 
> Probably just the seal type for the banjo bolts and maybe also the bolt
> size, as I recall. 

I have heard of and read about people using the same pump to replace both "red tag" and "green tag" pumps, and either 10vt or 20vt.  I have found another 200q20v pump I can use, but I would like to know if these pumps are swappable or if that is false economy.

I think my plan is to swap a known good 200q20v PS pump onto the car, and reseal the existing one.  I may try to replace the seals in situ first, if they are accessible.  I like that idea.  I just don't want to waste time or Pentosin.



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