green gold pump leak
auditude at cox.net
auditude at cox.net
Mon Jun 21 15:35:21 EDT 2004
Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net> wrote:
> Comment below, Ken.
> > From: <auditude at cox.net>
> >> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net>
> >>> From: <auditude at cox.net>
> >>> <snip> Turns out my power steering pump is leaking,
> >>> apparently from the crush washer/banjo bolt area on the top of it.
> >> Not the likely leak source, Ken. Much more likely would be one of the
> >> cylinder heads, the X head caps, 4 for the PS and 2 for the PB. Degrease
> >> the pump well with solvent and then find the real leak. If indead that you
> >> are right, it is the supply line from the reservoir, just loosen the banjo
> >> bolt a half turn and retighten, no need to replace the copper washer or
> O-ring. This holds for any banjo bolt seal, I never have.
> >> Bernie
> > Thanks, I think that's true. I checked with BAP Import Parts and they said
> > there were no seal kits in their nationwide system.
> Why do you think that a seal kit is necessary? Likely not, as all parts are
> available indivudually as required. Find the leak!
I'm not sure why I thought a seal kit was necessary,
probably some combination of my genes and experiences that
contributed to my being an individual. It would probably
take a lot psychotherapy or something to determine the
answer to that. The problem solving process has got to
start somewhere, right? Does the reason for my initial
thinking affect fixing the leak?
I have done some searching online and such for more info
about the PS pump. I found the part number Bernie posted
for the cylinder o-rings. I also saw some posts speculating
that the material in the factory kit might be special
compared to generic ones. If I can get a deal on the
factory seal kit, I prefer to go that way.
Here's the part number for the X-cap seals Bernie posted in
"The most likely failure point would be one of the cylinder
head O-ring seals on the front half, power brake end of the
pump, which can be changed in situ. (A generic 2-018 O-ring,
$0.10) Clean the pump and find the leak before deciding to
R&R. DFI if IAB!"
While searching the stuff online, I noticed a post that
conflicted with the others I found about Bernie's
"...I have not previously replaced the front seal on the
shaft because I've not had one leaking from the front, only
from between the halves and from under the mushroom caps.
But Bernie Benz says that seal should be replaced also to
assure pump doesn't suck air. So I don't know that the
front seal in that kit is the appropriate one, but it sure
looks like it would be."
I believe Bernie's position regarding the shaft seal is to
leave it alone if it's not leaking. That would be
consistent with his usual stance as well.
> > I noticed the earlier pumps aren't interchangeable, and that actually the 3B
> > cars had a unique pump from the 10v 200's. Or at least the part numbers are
> > different, 054 145 155BX for a rebuild from TPC vs. 034 145 155X for a rebuilt
> > for an '87 5kt (which I have available).
> Probably just the seal type for the banjo bolts and maybe also the bolt
> size, as I recall.
I have heard of and read about people using the same pump to replace both "red tag" and "green tag" pumps, and either 10vt or 20vt. I have found another 200q20v pump I can use, but I would like to know if these pumps are swappable or if that is false economy.
I think my plan is to swap a known good 200q20v PS pump onto the car, and reseal the existing one. I may try to replace the seals in situ first, if they are accessible. I like that idea. I just don't want to waste time or Pentosin.
More information about the 200q20v