green gold pump leak

Bernie Benz b.benz at
Thu Jun 24 12:57:24 EDT 2004

> From: <auditude at>
> I finally got a look at what was going on, after cleaning and letting it leak
> again.  I'm thinking it's the pressure hose now.  It seems to be most wet
> underneath the hose, and I can sort of squeeze pentosin out from under the
> sleeve at the end by the crimp.
> I'll have to pull the pressure hose off my new parts car this evening and try
> to get things squared away.
> It's interesting that the hose looks like it's very new.  I can't tell if it
> is a reproduction or the original.  There is something under the skin of it
> toward the back.
There is a restrictive orfice crimmped into the hose half way down, what you
are feeling thru the foam cover.

> Anyways, gotta go.  I'll post more as I find out more.
> Later,
> Ken
>> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at>
>> Date: 2004/06/21 Mon PM 04:11:18 EDT
>> To: <auditude at>
>> CC: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at>
>> Subject: Re: green gold pump leak
>> Ken,
>> The shaft seal could leak either way, air into the system when running
>> (possible cause of the frothing overflow syndrome) or fluid out when
>> stopped.  Either way, the seal pressure is never more than 6" of oil.
>> Bernie 
>>> From: <auditude at COX.NET>
>>> Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2004 15:35:14 -0400
>>> To: Bernie Benz <b.benz at>
>>> Cc: 200q20V mailing list <200q20v at>
>>> Subject: Re: green gold pump leak
>>> Bernie Benz <b.benz at> wrote:
>>>> Comment below, Ken.
>>>>> From: <auditude at>
>>>>>> From: Bernie Benz <b.benz at>
>>>>>>> From: <auditude at>
>>>>>>> <snip> Turns out my power steering pump is leaking,
>>>>>>> apparently from the crush washer/banjo bolt area on the top of it.
>>>>>> Not the likely leak source, Ken.  Much more likely would be one of the
>>>>>> cylinder heads, the X head caps, 4 for the PS and 2 for the PB.  Degrease
>>>>>> the pump well with solvent and then find the real leak.  If indead that
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> are right, it is the supply line from the reservoir, just loosen the
>>>>>> banjo
>>>>>> bolt a half turn and retighten, no need to replace the copper washer or
>>>> O-ring.  This holds for any banjo bolt seal, I never have.
>>>>>> Bernie 
>>> <snip>
>>>>> Thanks, I think that's true.  I checked with BAP Import Parts and they
>>>>> said
>>>>> there were no seal kits in their nationwide system.
>>>> Why do you think that a seal kit is necessary?  Likely not, as all parts
>>>> are
>>>> available indivudually as required.  Find the leak!
>>> Hi Bernie,
>>> I'm not sure why I thought a seal kit was necessary,
>>> probably some combination of my genes and experiences that
>>> contributed to my being an individual.  It would probably
>>> take a lot psychotherapy or something to determine the
>>> answer to that.  The problem solving process has got to
>>> start somewhere, right?  Does the reason for my initial
>>> thinking affect fixing the leak?
>>> I have done some searching online and such for more info
>>> about the PS pump.  I found the part number Bernie posted
>>> for the cylinder o-rings.  I also saw some posts speculating
>>> that the material in the factory kit might be special
>>> compared to generic ones.  If I can get a deal on the
>>> factory seal kit, I prefer to go that way.
>>> Here's the part number for the X-cap seals Bernie posted in
>>> the knowledgebase:
>>> "The most likely failure point would be one of the cylinder
>>> head O-ring seals on the front half, power brake end of the
>>> pump, which can be changed in situ. (A generic 2-018 O-ring,
>>> $0.10) Clean the pump and find the leak before deciding to
>>> R&R. DFI if IAB!"
>>> While searching the stuff online, I noticed a post that
>>> conflicted with the others I found about Bernie's
>>> recommendations.
>>> "...I have not previously replaced the front seal on the
>>> shaft because I've not had one leaking from the front, only
>>> from between the halves and from under the mushroom caps.
>>> But Bernie Benz says that seal should be replaced also to
>>> assure pump doesn't suck air.  So I don't know that the
>>> front seal in that kit is the appropriate one, but it sure
>>> looks like it would be."
>>> I believe Bernie's position regarding the shaft seal is to
>>> leave it alone if it's not leaking.  That would be
>>> consistent with his usual stance as well.
>>>>> I noticed the earlier pumps aren't interchangeable, and that actually the
>>>>> 3B
>>>>> cars had a unique pump from the 10v 200's.  Or at least the part numbers
>>>>> are
>>>>> different, 054 145 155BX for a rebuild from TPC vs. 034 145 155X for a
>>>>> rebuilt
>>>>> for an '87 5kt (which I have available).
>>>> Probably just the seal type for the banjo bolts and maybe also the bolt
>>>> size, as I recall.
>>> I have heard of and read about people using the same pump to replace both
>>> "red
>>> tag" and "green tag" pumps, and either 10vt or 20vt.  I have found another
>>> 200q20v pump I can use, but I would like to know if these pumps are
>>> swappable
>>> or if that is false economy.
>>> I think my plan is to swap a known good 200q20v PS pump onto the car, and
>>> reseal the existing one.  I may try to replace the seals in situ first, if
>>> they are accessible.  I like that idea.  I just don't want to waste time or
>>> Pentosin.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ken

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