msylvester at verizon.net
Mon Mar 15 15:14:48 EST 2004
About 10 years ago I inspected the inside of a rebuilt CV Joint and it had
Either it was re-ground or was made from a different outer race.
I agree about the inner boot. They almost never fail. I'll say almost only
because I'm sure someone has a BTDT.
I disagree about re-lubing if they are making noise. The noise is most
often because the outer race is damaged.
Fresh lube will not repair or mask this damage. Too me it is not worth the
labor to do it a 2nd time (BTDT).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernie Benz" <b.benz at charter.net>
To: "Derek Pulvino" <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
Cc: "200q20V mailing list" <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Monday, March 15, 2004 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: CV Boots
> Dan is right, if all you intend to do is to replace the boot, the easier
> method would be to disconnect the shaft at the inner CV joint and wriggle
> out as he described. There should be no reason to replace the inner boot
> unless it has suffered external damage, as its deflection angle is very
> small so will/should never self destruct. I would stay away from the
> "rebuilt" shafts. There is no way to rebuild a CV joint short of
> replacment. What they are selling is a shaft with reinspected and "deemed
> OK" joints. If yours haven't been making noises, and even if they have,
> most probably will be fine after cleaning, inspection and relubing.
> > From: "Derek Pulvino" <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
> > Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 10:23:32 -0800
> > To: 200q20v at audifans.com
> > Subject: RE: CV Boots
> > Well, I'll have to think about that rebuilt shaft idea, not that mine
> > bad, but I'm figuring it might make sense to do inside and outside boots
> > the same time...and the price for two-boots per side is probably about
> > same as that rebuilt cost.
> > Lifetime warranty, if only they'd cover the labor as well.
> > Thanks for the info everyone, for some reason I just was under the
> > impression there wasn't enough mobility on the inside of the drive line
> > allow one to take it out that way.
> > Derek P
> >>> Can somebody tell, and hopefully in btdt fashion, what the easiest way
> >>> pull the front driveshafts is? I just noticed that both of my outside
> >>> boots are torn on the front of the car, the passenger side pretty
> >>> as the grease is still getting thicker on the inside of the wheel.
> >>> the tranny side CV attached with an 8-point drive screw/bolt similar
> >>> the VW's?
> >>> From my recollection, by just taking the bottom of the strut off the
> >>> ball-joint you won't get enough movement to get the shafts out.
> >>> now that I'm thinking of it, I guess the main nememsis (aka sway bar)
> >>> attached to the control arm, not the strut.
> >> I just replaced the passenger side shaft on my 200. I don't know if
> >> correct, but the pass side was held in the hub with a 17mm allen head
> >> while the drivers side has a regular bolt head on it. And yes, the
> >> joint is held on with the 8 (or 12) pt drives similar to the VW.
> >> they are a different size than the aircooled VW's I've taken apart.
> >> be tempted to use a 8mm allen wrench. It fits pretty tight, but won't
> >> actually work. I used about 24" of socket extension and got the bolts
> >> through the wheelwell. Mine were on pretty tight!
> >> I was able to pull the shaft w/o taking the upright or lower arm, or
> >> bar off at all. With the wheel straight ahead, move the inner joint up
> >> to the rear, and push it out of the hub as far as you can. Then turn
> >> wheel to the outside (to the right on passenger side) and there should
> >> enough room to push the shaft the rest of the way out.
> >> "Assembly is reverse of removal" :o) Be careful on reassembly to make
> >> the gasket on the inner joint stays aligned.
> >> Also, I was able to get a rebuilt CV shaft (Cardone 607160) from my
> >> Schucks for ~$56. And they didn't charge me a core either, so I kept my
> >> shaft and will clean the outer joint and re-boot it. Some friends have
> >> problems with Schucks rebuilt CV's, but with a lifetime warranty, and
> >> a few hours to replace, I gave it a shot.
> >> --
> >> Dan Cordon
> >> Mechanical Engineer
> >> University of Idaho - Engine Research Facility
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