Brake MC replacing

Kneale Brownson knotnook at
Wed Oct 6 12:36:38 EDT 2004

I replaced mine about three years ago, so this is from memory, and that's
from an antique brain:

Be sure you have the correct new MC and rubber grommets.

Pack area under the MC with something to absorb spills or keep a large
supply of water handy to flush brake fluid out of the engine compartment.

Suck brake fluid out of reservoir (I have a miniature turkey baster type of

Disconnect the clutch fluid supply line and keep it elevated so it doesn't
suck air.

Pull off reservoir.  Takes quite a bit of effort.

Disconnect brake lines from MC and nudge gently aside.

Remove two nuts or bolts fastening MC to brake booster.

Remove MC. 

Examine interface with booster to make certain the weep hole in the bottom
of the cavity is clear and the area generally is clean of corrosion.  Mine
was fairly mucky.

Place new MC on the booster and tighten fasteners.

Connect brake lines.

Install grommets and reservoir.

Hook up clutch line.

Fill reservoir/MC cavity with fluid.

Pressure bleed entire system.   I use an EzeeBleed with a regulated 10 lbs
of pressure from my compressor.  I bleed the system every time I switch
seasonal tires, so I generally don't do a complete flush.  But if that's
not your practice, now would be a good time to flush the system.

At 07:55 AM 10/6/2004 -0700, Audi Quattro wrote:
>Anyone have the procedure on the removal and replacing of the Brake Master 
>Cylinder on a 200 20V? bentley is vague. Just want be sure before I start.
>Like what is the correct way to prime a new MC?
>Is it enough to remove old MC, prime new one,replace and pressure bleed
>all help will be greatly appreciated.
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