200q20v suspension = 1, me = 1

Ken Keith auditude at gmail.com
Mon Oct 11 14:37:32 EDT 2004

Well, I got (most of) the front part of my suspension done on
Saturday.  I didn't get to the rears, but that looks relatively very
easy and I plan to do it tonight.

With the help of a decent length section of thick square tubing, and
another decent length of larger thick square tubing slide over that, I
was able to put the necessary leverage on the control arms and get the
struts, strut bearings, dust boots, springs, camber plates, and tie
rod ends installed.  Easy as pie with enough leverage (and taking the
time to remove the dust shields so the ball joints can drop down
unencumbered (meaning the calipers and carriers and rotors too).

Turns out one of my ball joints was worn, the one with the torn boot,
so new control arms are on their way for another pass.  I'm really
good (well, comfortable anyway) at doing the front now, since I
actually had to do it more than once.  Initially I had the 2B camber
plates assembled on the strut assembly and understood that I couldn't
install it that way and had to put the stock upper strut mount on for
the install and then swap the plate on afterward.

Then I discovered that the upper strut mounts are different on the
urS-car version in addition to the lower mounts that I bought used for
the conversion.  I had to dremel out the slotted holes wider so that I
could use one for the install.  Then in the swapping of parts, after I
got it all buttoned up, I found that I had an "extra" new strut
bearing.  A turn of the steering wheel gave the pop that told me which
side I somehow left it out of.  Doh!  Into that side once again.

While redoing the side that didn't get a strut bearing the first time,
I figured getting back into it was "meant to be" and I pulled the axle
and did the outer CV boot that was torn also.  I was going to leave it
for later since I had most of the day into just the main part of the
suspension.  Having never dealt with the snap ring type CV before, I
found it easy to do, probably possible to do on the car.

I also discovered one of my caliper pins was rusted solid.  I broke it
free and cleaned it up, lubed it, and reinstalled it. I'll replace the
pitted pin when I get some new boots.  I figure the pits are low spots
and not high spots, and the pin moved freely when I got done with it.

I hope to get it all done and aligned in time to go on a "group drive"
up to Flagstaff this weekend.  Buncha type 44's and a few newer Audis,
so I'll try to "represent".

I got a pretty good deal on TRW/Federal Mogul control arms from an
ebay seller, redline2k, auction # 7927060080.  $55 each plus $7 ($4
each additional item)ground shipping, for the 19mm ball joint version
and including the sway bar bushings.  With the expedited freight to
get here in time for the weekend, I still saved over all the vendors
that I know of.

I inspected my rear links and control arm bushings, and things look
good back there.  Another tidbit is that I had to use a rubber mallet
on the pipe wrench to get the old struts out, they were pretty tight. 
I PB Blasted where I needed to.  Evolutionsports.com did end up
shipping me the Bilstien tool.  I wasn't able to apply the full 140nm
or whatever max torque was spec'ed, but they are tight.  That
collar/tool interface really sucks.

So, I guess when I'm done I'll have about 4 sessions of working on the
suspension to get it buttoned up for now.  I don't mind tho'.  At this
point, I'm pleased that I was able to get the progress made, and I
feel better about tackling the front suspension in general on the type
44's.  I didn't even lose much skin this time.



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