Brake Bleed Q:

SuffolkD at SuffolkD at
Tue Sep 7 22:47:55 EDT 2004

I smoked the Right rears on the 200 20V on the last laps at a DE.
The rears are solid disc.

200 20V 1991 Solid rears.
The pads were NLA.........just the backing plates which made stone grinding 
sounds. OUCH!

Fastforward to R&R on a dirt road.....(Planned......added for dramatic effect)
Since I just bought the pseudo correct metalnerd tool to push in the pistons 
I was met with a LOT of resistance.
( I did crack the bleeder to try an help pushing the piston in.............)
I suspected the piston was so far out it was cocked at an angle and jamming.
Situation was resolved by detaching the caliper / hose /line and finishing on 
a vise where alignment was right on.
The piston turned in ridiculously easy then.

During the re bleed of the rears, following the Bentley which outlined the 
typical RR, LR, RF, LF format I found very little fluid coming out.

I used a pressure bleeder which was sort of a problem in adjusting the RR 
caliper piston back out to the pads on the rotor.  This created a vacuum where 
the piston retracted when the brake pedal was released from the floor.  Pressure 
@ 15 lbs didn't push it out.  So I used the Ebrake cam which did an excellent 
job a ratching it out when I was first trying to  push it back in with the 
metalnerd tool....................but NOT in trying to ratch out the piston to 
take up the slack between the pads and the rotor.  (used thin pads here 10 V 
avant ones)  I resorted to the old fashoined pedal to the floor, crack bleeder, 
tighten release brake pedal from floor, method.

So my Q's are:
1:  Is there an additional step I'm missing with the ABS controller not 
allowing fluid to "pour" out when I crack the bleeder screws?  This is on the 
2:  MC the issue?

3:  Does the piston have to come out to replace the piston boot?

I never touched the fronts, and drove the car back home to finish work on it 
( no new rear pads) 10V avants' fit though...................Good but spongy 
brake pedal.

I considered the fronts and rears to be on different circuits as there are 
two steel lines from the MC to the ABS.
(Did they do away with the diagonal braking system the old 5000's had?)

Other considerations:
Ebrake cables loose to console lever.  (Need adjustment) 
Mid Atlantic car no corrosion on any component except the caliper cast 
Rear (RR) pad wore inner and out, rotor is a tad thinner on the inside 
(thickness) outside looks new.
Guide pins and boots in tact, free sliding.
Fluid was dark with no clouding or junk in it, consistent with High temp 
-HEAT- fluid discoloring (in the caliper)
MC is flaky causing drag on all four brakes when HOT,  Bleed was cold: two 
days sitting, no binding.

TIA - Scott by BOSTON

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