[SPAM]Re: Finished installing H&R springs and Koni shocks

Bernie Benz b.benz at charter.net
Tue Dec 6 17:42:13 EST 2005

Hi Ingo,

Having given this last resort idea some consideration, I'll share my
thoughts with you.

First and for obvious reasons, one would much prefer do do this mod without
having to remove the sub frame!  A rotary file on an angle drill motor
should do it.

The maximum lateral force, lower arm to subframe, is always inward, from
outside wheel in a turn to the chassis.  Thus, this force will always be
directed rigidly against the surfaces of the elongated mounting holes.
Further, inasmuch as the arm bushing has a steel inner sleeve, a very large
bolt clamping force can be applied to hold this bushing in place during the
much lower outward forces.  (The faster you corner the lower this outward
force.  Inside wheel off the ground, no force.)  Not necessary IMO but, if
one wished to guild the lily, one could make stepped washers to fill the
slot voids.  

A slot moving the bolt 1/4" inboard would add about 0.6 degree of positive
camber, more than enough to move the strut top camber adjustment back into
the center of its range, when including all the other incrimental additions
we've employed.


> From: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>
> Hmm, now that's an interesting idea, Bernie.  Not sure how you'd address /
> prevent the control arm bushing from sliding without some kind of "spacer"
> in the slot though.  Not sure about stress, though there well might be...
> Ingo
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bernie Benz" <b.benz at charter.net>
>> A next step might be to slot the lower
>> arm mounting holes in the subframe, moving the arm inboard as far as
>> possible.  Been threatening this one.
>> Bernie

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