The Bernie Brace
patrick.anderson1 at comcast.net
patrick.anderson1 at comcast.net
Thu Feb 3 10:16:18 EST 2005
If you really don't feel like making one and want to buy one I believe you can get one from 2Bennett Audimotive. They appear to have stolen Bernie's design and are selling it on their website. They also have a FMIC kit for our car...design also stolen from others and marketed as their own.
-------------- Original message --------------
> Most of the Bernie Brace is available from local stores.
> Reference: http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/strutbrace.html
> I have copied text below that is from the write up at the link above with
> my comments inserted:
> 2 ea. Superior Linkage #SPM-10S moulded race ball rod end. $11.45 ea.
> Find list of local distributors on Superior's web site. I got mine from H.
> R. Swanton, P.O. Box 15926, LA, CA 90015, 213-749-8114, fax 8160.
> My Comment ==> You can also go to your local Farm Store or probably
> even Lawnmower Store or maybe Lowes etc. and purchase a Category 0 (zero)
> top link for a 3-point hitch used to attach various implements to the rear
> of small tractors. The two ball ends on these Category 0 top links are
> essentially the same as the part listed above (maybe a little looser on
> tolerances & maybe a little thicker but likely acceptable for this task),
> except one is left-hand thread and the other right-hand thread. Anyway,
> expect to pay about $20 for a Category 0 top link. It seems like I used a
> hand grinder to tailor the fit of these. You may want to measure your ball
> end thickness before you make the "strut adapter nut" mentioned below and
> tweak the dimensions of your strut adapter nut to match your ball end.
> 2 ea. 5/8-18 Jam Nut, cad plated. $0.50 ea. from super hardware store,
> or fastener distributor. See Yellow pages.
> My Comment ==> Most farm stores around here have nuts, sold $/pound,
> that will thread onto the Category 0 top link. It was a pretty big nut, so
> I cut one nut in half to make two nuts so I could jam it yet still be
> compact because I wanted to maximize the portion of the threads inserted
> into the tube. I love my Dremel with a little carbide cutoff wheel for
> these little tasks. I also used some large tight-fitting washers between
> the ball end and the tubing (EMT) mentioned below to give a larger bearing
> surface, though I had to cut these down to clear the area near the top of
> the strut tower.
> 1 ea. 40" length approx. of 1/2"EMT (thin wall electrical mechanical
> tubing) $1.05/10' at building supply, or bum scrap from your electrical
> contractor. Must be straight.
> My Comment ==> I always have called this electrical conduit - not the
> flexible stuff but the stuff that is a pipe. Possibly available out of a
> dumpster at a construction or demolition site, though you need it to be
> straight. Get it new at Lowes or Home Depot for reasonable outlay.
> 2 ea. Strut Adaptor Nut, per drawing, below. Find a friend with a lathe,
> or have them fabricated at a local machine shop having metric taps. est.
> cost $5.00 ea. max. This nut replaces the strut piston rod top nut. It
> extends and adapts the piston rod end to the ball joint.
> My Comment ==> See the site referenced above for the drawing. This is
> an easy part for a machine shop to make. Soon after I moved to my present
> address (i.e. I was new in town) I called around and all of the local
> machine shops I talked to were busy, so it was going to be more than $5
> each. However, I have some machine shop connections with my business and
> after a little while I was able to procure mine for less than $5 each. In
> my previous city I had relationships with several machine shops that would
> have done this inexpensively. Everywhere I have lived I have managed to
> find someone who has a lathe, sometimes in the old barn beside their house.
> Usually they picked it up cheap at an auction and have been doing small
> machining jobs on the side ever since. When I was in graduate school and
> also as an undergraduate, I had machine shop privileges (as all Mechanical
> Engineers and Materials Engineers should) and could have kicked out a bunch
> of these in no time flat.
> My Comment 2 ==> If there was enough interest, I could try to put
> together a small production run of these, though the shipping costs plus
> production costs would likely be more than you would pay if you had them
> made locally. Let me know if you are interested. I am not signing up to do
> this right now, but if the interest is there I will investigate whether I
> want to do this. I honestly believe everyone should spend their time
> finding a local machine shop willing to do small jobs at reasonable costs.
> My Comment 3 ==> Doesn't everyone already have their own set of
> metric taps and dies for making and chasing threads? ;-)
> Eric Kissell
> Tiffin, OH 44883
> 1991 200q 20v Avant, Koni Sports (yellow), 2.4 Bar (MRC), eBay Surprise
> 1989 200q 10v Avant, Boge Turbogas, 1.8 Bar (qlcc) - FOR SALE
> 1986 5000cstq Sedan, Bilsteins, 1.8 Bar (SJM)
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