stumbling under boost solved! - (plugs)
t44tqtro at gmail.com
Fri Jan 28 13:51:22 EST 2005
The narrow rotor is only for the 20v engine. Other than that the
rotors are interchangeable between 10v and 20v- if you have a rotor or
distributor that's different from the one in your 20v in terms of
shaft size or whatever, then it's not from a turbo car, that much I
know. The 10v and 20v rotors are interchangeable, but you want the
narrow rotor in the 20v.
Thepartsbin and other Worldpac resellers have the narrow rotor in
stock usually- there is a comment about 20v or narrow or something in
The cap is the same for both 10v and 20v.
As for plug wires- I don't know of anyone with colored wires- I simply
got replacement wires from Euro-Car Service when I did mine last fall-
OEM Beru connectors, seemed fine except for the wiring loom hold-downs
were not as nice as OEM.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 09:53:22 -0700, Ken Keith <auditude at gmail.com> wrote:
> So, last night I changed the plugs on my 200q20v. I guess I hadn't
> changed them before, but I thought I did. This solved the stumbling
> and hesitation I started seeing under boost.
> I was going to replace the fuel pump with a CIS one I have already,
> because I thought that was the cause. The pump in my car is a little
> noisy, sounding a bit like an angry hornet's nest, as opposed to a hum
> or buzz. I'll replace it later, but for now it's working okay.
> I want to replace the plug wires. Does anyone know of any aftermarket
> plug wires that are available in blue? I know Rapid Parts has Blue
> Ignitors, but I didn't see one for our application. Also, I want to
> put a 7A valve cover on. I believe the plug wires have different part
> numbers between the cars, so I guess I want to get 7A wires.
> Here's the shocking part. I think I have the wide distributor rotor
> on my car. I have another 20v distributor that has a much narrower
> tip on the end of it. Both have the smaller diameter shaft size,
> compared to my 10v distributors which have a larger shaft and also
> have an even wider rotor blade.
> I wanted to change the rotor with another used one I had that was
> narrower, altho' I didn't have the part numbers with me to know for
> sure if it was the correct one. I couldn't get the damn rotor off the
> one on the car, so I explored the idea of swapping distributors. The
> loose distributor that I have had a broken plastic gear, so I removed
> it and put a bronze one on. Then I tried to remove the distributor
> from the motor and I couldn't even get a wrench on the little
> bracket's bolt. I think I also have the rivet that needs to be
> drilled out. I gave up on trying to swap distributors, and went back
> to the rotor swapping idea.
> I tried again and the rotor on the car ended up coming off,
> surprisingly easily after not being able to do it earlier. So I went
> to take the rotor off of the other distributor that now had the metal
> gear, and I could not get the dang thing off. I ended up breaking it,
> and then I found that it was glued on.
> So, I need to go re-research the ignition rotor issue to get the right
> one one there. When I have the car apart more, I'll make the
> distributor on the car removable by drilling out the rivet. Then I'll
> probably get a metal gear in the car, maybe when I do the timing belt
> next. In the meantime, I hope I don't have any spark hopping or other
> nasty stuff happen. The good news is I've been driving the car like
> this for quite a while and haven't noticed anything, so hopefully that
> will continue.
> Is there any kind of rule to which rotors were glued on or anything
> like that? What car has the smaller distributor shaft but the wide
> rotor? Maybe my thick shaft distributors are for n/a 10v's and the
> other narrow shaft is for a turbo 10v? I'll figure it out in a bit,
> but those are what I'm wondering about.
> I gotta say, without that darn stumble, my car is pretty quick now!
> It's nice to have WOT available. =)
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