cd strangeness & stalling issue
brogers at terrix.com
Wed Jul 13 12:12:34 EDT 2005
Because it sounds like Kerry is paying a mechanic to check these out -
hopefully you're not paying hourly diagnostic labor. If that is the case -
maybe it would be better to just buy the parts and put them on yourself - at
least then you get some new parts out of the money you spend....
-or to put it an other way - I'd rather throw new parts at an old car then
pay a mechanic $80/hr to look around and diagnose....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Rose" <pjrose at frontiernet.net>
To: "Kerry Griffith" <i2k at xmission.com>
Cc: <200q20v at audifans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: cd strangeness & stalling issue
> At 7:25 PM -0600 7/12/05, Kerry Griffith wrote:
>>OK, time for my annual questions for you gurus.
>>1. Recently, the car wouldn't idle- died any time I took my foot off. Had
>>to restart, sometimes by abusing the drivetrain while in motion. Scared my
>>eight-year-old (and myself) since it was rush hour. I doubt it was the
>>bypass valve we've all replaced, since it has run fine since. I know Scott
>>M. mentions the idle stabilizer valve on his site, so my question is this:
>>Given the fact that my (good) mechanics have checked out all they say they
>>can, especially vacuum lines, does anyone have a suggestion? I'm tempted
>>to throw parts like the ISV in there despite the $$ approach, but if
>>anyone has a likely culprit, I'd be grateful for the shortcut.
> Why consider just replacing the ISV (>>$100) on a hunch, rather than the
> BPV (under $50)? From what you described, I might not suspect the BPV
> since you say you merely need to lift off the throttle in order for the
> car to stall. The BPV symptom usually shows up only when lifting the
> throttle (and braking hard to stop) while under turbo boost (i.e., just
> after hard acceleration).
> In any case, both parts can be tested, so I wouldn't replace either one
> without hard evidence that it's defective. Perhaps your "good" mechanics
> have done that, but I wouldn't count on it. The BPV needs to be removed
> and then it can be determined if there is a leak in the bellows valve.
> Another (very plausible) source of BPV problems would be its vacuum
> (control) hose: does it actually hold vacuum or is it split and/or
> toasted? At least you should remove the large black-painted metal
> air-intake tube and visually verify that the BPV's small rubber vac hose
> (that runs between the exhaust manifold and the intake pipe) is not burned
> to a toasty, leaking crisp.
> The ISV electrical operation can be tested with a 9-volt battery. Movement
> of the ISV valve sometimes becomes sluggish because of oil/dirt
> accumulating on the surfaces of the valve "cylinder"; it can be
> resurrected by careful cleaning/flushing with carb cleaner, etc. The ISV
> needs to be removed for this.
> Even "good" mechanics often won't do these things for inexpensive parts
> because of the time required--they can easily just replace the BPV with a
> new one at not more total cost than needed to remove the old one, test it
> and re-install. If you aren't able to take on such diagnostic work
> yourself, you may be forced to replace things by educated guesswork.
> That's usually the expensive way to go with maintaining these cars, but
> you've got to go with what works best for you and your available time and
>>2. When I attempt to listen to a CD, it will begin to play for anywhere
>>from 5-30 seconds before the music is replaced by static. Just had my
>>radio head unit overhauled by Brett Seamens (thanks to a lister's
>>suggestion), but apparently that wasn't my problem. Does anyone recognize
> Yes, that's the symptom I had when the CD player's FM-modulator unit (a
> small box located/buried in the passenger-side footwell) went bad.
> Replaced the modulator with a used one and that solved the problem. It's a
> bit of a problem to access this unit although not that bad once you get
> the hang of working upside-down with your head on the floor. I'd advise
> assuming this _is_ the problem and simply to go ahead and replace it with
> a (_known_) working unit. I was fortunate to get one from a lister who
> removed it from his own vehicle (being parted out)--however as with many
> well-used parts, it worked fine for only about a year and now I need
> another one :-(
> Phil Rose
> Rochester, NY
> mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
> 200q20v mailing list http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/200q20v
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