cd strangeness & stalling issue
i2k at xmission.com
Wed Jul 13 17:48:12 EDT 2005
Thanks for the detailed information, Phil. You're right about my
techs; they're far from being monkey lads, but they sometimes err on
the side of trying to save money for customers (and I imagine there is
a small element of laziness as well). I called and told them to get a
CD modulator unit, and they sort of whined about not having heard of
it, etc. It took a number a tries for them to sort out my a/c even
though I kept telling them I'd be happy to pay any labor cost involved.
But they're very fair, very honest, very inexpensive, and all they do
I suspect you're right on the ISV as well- I know the vacuum control
hose of which you speak is quite new and un-baked, and when the BPV
valve went bad when I bought the car (10 years ago!) the symptom was
not even intermittent, never mind only once (thus far . . ).
I saw Scott M's directions for removing the ISV and cleaning it, so
despite being a bit of a monkey lad, I may tackle that myself. Does
Bentley describe the 9v battery test?
Again, thanks for the patient and detailed response. I'm sure I would
have been driving something newer (and possibly from the Land of the
Rising Sun were it not for the long-term fonts of wisdom such as you.
On Wednesday, July 13, 2005, at 09:26 AM, Phil Rose wrote:
> At 7:25 PM -0600 7/12/05, Kerry Griffith wrote:
>> OK, time for my annual questions for you gurus.
>> 1. Recently, the car wouldn't idle- died any time I took my foot off.
>> Had to restart, sometimes by abusing the drivetrain while in motion.
>> Scared my eight-year-old (and myself) since it was rush hour. I doubt
>> it was the bypass valve we've all replaced, since it has run fine
>> since. I know Scott M. mentions the idle stabilizer valve on his
>> site, so my question is this:
>> Given the fact that my (good) mechanics have checked out all they say
>> they can, especially vacuum lines, does anyone have a suggestion? I'm
>> tempted to throw parts like the ISV in there despite the $$ approach,
>> but if anyone has a likely culprit, I'd be grateful for the shortcut.
> Why consider just replacing the ISV (>>$100) on a hunch, rather than
> the BPV (under $50)? From what you described, I might not suspect the
> BPV since you say you merely need to lift off the throttle in order
> for the car to stall. The BPV symptom usually shows up only when
> lifting the throttle (and braking hard to stop) while under turbo
> boost (i.e., just after hard acceleration).
> In any case, both parts can be tested, so I wouldn't replace either
> one without hard evidence that it's defective. Perhaps your "good"
> mechanics have done that, but I wouldn't count on it. The BPV needs to
> be removed and then it can be determined if there is a leak in the
> bellows valve. Another (very plausible) source of BPV problems would
> be its vacuum (control) hose: does it actually hold vacuum or is it
> split and/or toasted? At least you should remove the large
> black-painted metal air-intake tube and visually verify that the BPV's
> small rubber vac hose (that runs between the exhaust manifold and the
> intake pipe) is not burned to a toasty, leaking crisp.
> The ISV electrical operation can be tested with a 9-volt battery.
> Movement of the ISV valve sometimes becomes sluggish because of
> oil/dirt accumulating on the surfaces of the valve "cylinder"; it can
> be resurrected by careful cleaning/flushing with carb cleaner, etc.
> The ISV needs to be removed for this.
> Even "good" mechanics often won't do these things for inexpensive
> parts because of the time required--they can easily just replace the
> BPV with a new one at not more total cost than needed to remove the
> old one, test it and re-install. If you aren't able to take on such
> diagnostic work yourself, you may be forced to replace things by
> educated guesswork. That's usually the expensive way to go with
> maintaining these cars, but you've got to go with what works best for
> you and your available time and facilities.
>> 2. When I attempt to listen to a CD, it will begin to play for
>> anywhere from 5-30 seconds before the music is replaced by static.
>> Just had my radio head unit overhauled by Brett Seamens (thanks to a
>> lister's suggestion), but apparently that wasn't my problem. Does
>> anyone recognize this symptom?
> Yes, that's the symptom I had when the CD player's FM-modulator unit
> (a small box located/buried in the passenger-side footwell) went bad.
> Replaced the modulator with a used one and that solved the problem.
> It's a bit of a problem to access this unit although not that bad once
> you get the hang of working upside-down with your head on the floor.
> I'd advise assuming this _is_ the problem and simply to go ahead and
> replace it with a (_known_) working unit. I was fortunate to get one
> from a lister who removed it from his own vehicle (being parted
> out)--however as with many well-used parts, it worked fine for only
> about a year and now I need another one :-(
> Phil Rose
> Rochester, NY
> mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net
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