'91 200 20V Intermittent Start Problem

Phil and Judy Rose pjrose at frontiernet.net
Sat Mar 26 19:24:34 EST 2005

At 3:56 PM -0800 3/26/05, Michael Palatas wrote:
>Car Particulars: Currently at 91K miles, was chipped with Stage III+ 
>at 80K miles - with Samco and all new coolant and breather type 
>hoses.  Pulled codes before and after chip - none present.  Here are 
>Prior experience:  Started after ignition key turn and 2 cycles max. 
>Now - Sometimes: Turn ignition key, cranks fine, "starts" after 2 
>cycles, release key, then dies immediately.  Turn key again, cranks 
>fine, starts after about 2 cycles.
>Now - Rest of Time: Turn ignition key, cranks fine, won't start even 
>after about 12 cycles.  Release key, turn it again, cranks fine, 
>starts after about 2 cycles.  
>Have checked battery and charging system - all SAT.  Have replaced 
>the distro cap and rotor (yes, narrow one).  Any suggestions on what 
>should be next?

A fuel-delivery problem can give some of those symptoms--e.g., it's 
common to have a loss of fuel-line pressure from leaky injector(s) 
or--more commonly--a defective check-valve on the fuel pump (with the 
old, original-style "thick" pump). So, is your no-start problem more 
likely to happen when a _warm_ engine is restarted (rather than if 
it's "stone cold")? The check valve leakage rate often requires the 
car to sit for about 30-60 minutes before causing a problem with 
starting. But if the car sits for hours, the engine management senses 
a cold engine and provides fuel enrichment that masks (or overcomes) 
the initially low fuel line pressure. So the problem might seem to 
occur at random intervals, but...there's a pattern. Replacement check 
valve is a few bucks.

I'm sure others will be able to chime in with suggestions involving 
ignition (electrical) system.

*  Phil & Judy Rose           Rochester, NY  *      
*        mailto:pjrose at frontiernet.net       *

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