Car runs too cool/intermittant autocheck annoyances SuffolkD at
Mon Oct 24 14:32:07 EDT 2005

Phil:  I'd go one further on the cool running (temp) of the 200 20V.
My 200 20V runs ultra cool.  
Only when stopped in traffic will the temp get into the normal operating 
I suspect the thermostat is partially open all the time.
this (theoretically) gets me:
Lower gas mileage.
Low boost on occasion like the MFTS symptom. 1.3 / 1.4 bar
Luke warm heat in the winter.

I would guess it would lead to engine life longjevidy (sp?) hence the reason 
why I haven't changed mine.

Flase alarms on the IC could be solder breaks in the cluster 
-Scott by BOSTON

> From: Phil Rose <>
> At 1:55 PM -0700 10/22/05, Aaron Rosenstein wrote:
> >After a 5 year break from Audis, I got the bug again and picked up a
> >nice 91 200tq from a local seller. The car is in amazing shape overall,
> >and has less miles than my last one, but still ahas a couple quirks.
> >
> >I'm concerned that the engine seems to runn so cool. Unless I'm driving
> >around town slowly, the temp needle never get off the bottom three
> >lines, and my last car always ran just under half even on teh freeway.
> >
> >At the same time, I get the annoying intermittant overheat/water symbol
> >on the autocheck box,
> Glad to hear people are still buying these cars! ;-)
> Don't disconnect autocheck (especially when you might have a temp 
> gauge that's not working properly), but instead find and fix the 
> source(s) of the problems.
> A defective MFTS (multifunction temp sensor) can cause both the low 
> temperature reading _and_ the gratuitous warning for low-coolant 
> level. If a bad MFTS is the source of the problem, the chances are 
> that the A/C compressor won't work and that the max boost is low 
> (e.g., 1.4 bar). Anyway, to test the MFTS, pull the connector off 
> (i.e., disconnect)  the sensor: if that's been your problem, then the 
> low-coolant warnings will stop (for sure), the maximum boost pressure 
> may increase (assuming there're no other problems) and the A/C might 
> work (if refrigerant pressure is OK). Of course the temp gauge will 
> be dead. Simple matter to then replace MFTS.
> The brake pad warning goes off when there's an _open_ sensor circuit. 
> Fixing the brake pad warning is often just a matter of properly 
> shorting the sensor connector wires (if the sensor circuit been 
> defeated by a PO), or correcting a poor contact in one or both of the 
> connectors (if you actually are using pads with sensor connections).
> Oil gauge warning could require oil pressure sensor replacement as 
> mentioned by Chuck.
> Phil

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